Rub Down and Vino! Napa Valley Escape

Located in the pretty town of Calistoga, The Golden Haven Hot Springs, Spa and Inn is a nice place to relax and be pampered. We stayed here because of a package deal that included spa treatments at The Golden Haven the next day. The Inn offers comfortable rooms at a decent rate for the area. Our two-bedroom suite, called the Superior Room, cost $189 for three people and had both king-size and queen-size beds in separate rooms. The main room, with a vaulted ceiling, was tastefully furnished with the king-size bed, table and chairs, a good-size television, and a kitchenette including a microwave, mini fridge, cabinets and coffeemaker, and free bottled water. Two floral-stained glass windows were focal points that overlooked the room. The separate bedroom was smaller and had no furniture besides the queen-size bed. We had lots of room to spread out and plenty of space for our weekend luggage. The bathroom was small and simple but clean, with a spacious vanity outside.

The room had one reserved parking space out front and a cement patio that no one was particularly interested in (maybe it was the rainy weather, plastic chairs, or bleak view of the parking lot). One interesting fact about the stay here were the mineral water showers. Due to the proximity of the spas, the showers sprayed hot sulfuric mineral water. While the properties of the water were no doubt beneficial, the steamy smell of foul sulphur filled the bathroom. Signs posted in the shower warned of sharp changes in pressure and temperature, and all three of us struggled to maintain a consistent water temperature. Yick: nothing like getting clean and smelling like natural gas!

At night we enjoyed a loud December rain storm on the roof while watching the Meg Ryan movie marathon on TV, the perfect girls' evening! We talked into the night, but unfortunately could hear our neighbors doing the same... not so good. The other bad news was that the queen-size bed was noticeably less soft and sleep worthy than the king in the other room. We couldn't understand why they wouldn't be the same and noted it in our room evaluation the next morning.

Overall, it was a good experience, so I would recommend it and might even go back. I wouldn't, however, suggest it for the budget traveler, or someone looking for luxury accommodations, because it doesn't quite fit either category. It falls somewhere in between.

What first stands out when you walk up to The Model Bakery in mid-December is the positively huge gingerbread house in the window! Inside, more delights await.

On a rainy day and in between wineries, we settled right in to enjoy lunch in the busy but relaxing bakery. I grabbed an already-made chicken salad sandwich on fresh seeded bread ($6.50). The chicken salad was perfection, made with lots of tarragon, celery, and just enough mayo to keep the whole mix together. Lots of other sandwiches were available to order, including grilled paninis, one of which was Asiago pear and brie cheese (yumm!). My friends shared the tomato-vegetable soup of the day and the homemade macaroni & cheese lunch special, made with tons of rich white cheddar.

They waited a bit too long for the cheesy mac, but we didn't really mind since it was pouring outside anyway. One solution to the wait is that The Model Bakery serves just about everything in little takeaway containers at the counter in case you don't have time to sit at the bakery. Truth is, the Model Bakery doesn't offer much in its decor and it can feel a bit frantic during the lunch rush, but it succeeds in quality and taste: it's worth it. So maybe grab some treats to go and savor it elsewhere, but don't pass it by.

This local coffee stop is cute, cute, cute! Lots of fun art and quirky gifts line the walls, and there are plenty of tables and comfy chairs. There's nothing better than sipping a hot beverage with friends all nestled into an old-fashioned booth. Most coffee joints don't strike me as particularly memorable, but this is a place with style and uniqueness.

As for the drinks themselves (and why this review is sooo short), I sipped a delicious hot tea, as did my friend. And well, if they mess up steeping a tea bag, then they might as well close shop and go home. Definitely grab one of their sinful and flaky chocolate croissants!

After a long day of wine tasting, a good dinner is in order. Our friend recommended we eat at Brannan's Grill, a classy restaurant on the main street of Calistoga. It easily stands out on the street as one of the nicer buildings, and inside is just as lovely. The lighting is low, the staff are quiet and polite, and the smell of good food lingers from the kitchen.

I dined on the forever roasted pork ($19), served with russet mashed potatoes and brussel sprouts, all drizzled in a light citrus sauce. I started with a generous bowl of seasonal butternut squash soup ($7), garnished with fresh cream and cinnamon. All three of us ordered and shared the seared gnocchi starter with mushrooms and crispy basil ($11). Gnocchi, if you've never had it are little Italian potato dumplings served like pasta. I tasted each delicate morsel with delight.

The romantic lighting and rich wood throughout the restaurant created the perfect date ambiance. I felt perfectly welcome, however, at a large table with chatty girlfriends sipping nice wine and enjoying conversation with our handsome waiter.

Brannan's Grill Website

My friend, who works in the wine industry and was our guide around the valley all day, chirped happily as we approached Peju (www.peju.com). "We have to go to Peju! It's so creepy! You'll love it." Not sure what she meant, we pulled into the gravel driveway and laid our eyes on the spooky castle-like building that is Peju. The gardens surrounding the winery are dotted with strange statues and funky metal archways. A quasi-moat surrounded the main building and a wooden drawbridge led to the front doors. Creepy indeed, but intriguing.

Inside, we were greeted by a massive wall of stained glass, rich dark-wood bars, and shelves of winery merchandise, including artsy decanters and rows of specialty cookbooks. A few dozen tourists had braved the gloomy weather and were milling about within the winery; it was by far the busiest place we'd seen. We were greeted immediately by a smiling attendant who didn't have space for us just yet to wine taste, but he invited us back to taste some specialty chocolates and fancy mustard creations. More merchandise tempted us down the hallway towards chocolate tasting, including appropriately themed art and detailed wine country maps. The chocolate sauces were divine: a sweet mix of rich chocolate paired with an undertone of Merlot or Cabernet. I didn't try the mustards or the wine/caramel concoction because we were so quickly assigned a place at the wine-tasting bar.

The gentleman who poured for us was a real treat. He started with the white wines and explained each one in terms that I (who knows next to nothing about wine) could understand, and suggested foods that would pair nicely with each. His high energy and humor made for the best wine tasting experience of the day. He remembered our wine-industry friend, who'd been there before, and was so kind enough to allow us to taste premium wine not on the usual list. We were wowed by the 2003 Reserve Cabernet Franc, which even I could recognize as a notch above all others. This incredibly drinkable wine was sold in bottles for $90 each but were nearly sold out. Most other wines offered here were more affordable, and all were tasty. No "flabby" wines here!

And the experience of the creepy castle, gardens, immense stained glass, and fantastic service of Peju is not to be missed.