Singapore: That little dot on the map

A December 2005 trip to Singapore by Composthp Best of IgoUgo

Le TroquetMore Photos

Singapore is my home. I feel at ease here, with no worries over security and knowing that everything I need or want is within reach.

  • 11 reviews
  • 1 story/tip
  • 43 photos
Fabric of the Nation
Singapore is known as a clean and green country. It is also perhaps the most misunderstood country. No, Singapore is not part of China or India; it is an independent, cosmopolitan Southeast Asian city that takes pride in being first in many ways (good and bad). Situated at the tip of Malaysia (no, we are not part of Malaysia either), it is a safe and convenient base to explore the neighbouring Southeast Asian countries.

Singapore has basically two seasons, hot and hotter or wet and wetter, depending on who you talk to. We heartily blame the humid weather for our casual dress code. Shorts/ cut-offs with T-shirts and flip-flops are the norm. Although Malay is the official language, English is commonly spoken among all races. Singlish, mangled Queen's English peppered with lots of lahs, lehs, and lors, however, is spoken by almost everyone

It is perfectly legal to chew gum here, you just can’t sell it (or buy it here), and yes, you just might be fined if you are caught jay walking, littering, or spitting in public; caned if you are caught vandalizing; and sentence to death if you possess more than 15g of illegal drugs (it’s zero tolerance, so you have been forewarned here). Other than that, we are quite a friendly lot.

Shopping and eating are the unofficial official favorite activities among locals. The title “shopping paradise” was touted to tourists some years ago with good reason. There are shopping malls of varying sizes at almost all MRT train stations (which are situated mere minutes apart). Shopping here is a delight due to the sheer variety: from high fashion to no-labels, there is something to suit everyone’s budget. Food too is available 24/7. From fast food to gourmet, even the pickiest eater would be able to find something here.

Quick Tips:

Here are some must-see and must-eat suggestions:

If you have less than 5 hours, the Singapore airport transit area has something for everyone. From duty-free shops to catching up on the latest news, you will not feel bored while in transit. Part of the fun of returning home for many of us was that we get to shop in the transit area. This website has some excellent suggestions on how to while your time away while in transit.

For those with more time in your hands, here's a list of must-dos:

1. Head on to the zoo and say hello to our local celebrity, Ah Meng, who has greeted more dignitaries and movie stars than anyone else here.

2. If you love flowers, in particularly orchids, the Singapore Botanic gardens has a huge collection that has wowed many visitors. Look out for the iconic tree that is featured in the S note.

3. For the tech freak, Sim Lim square and Funan DigitaLife mall are the places to be. Be warned, however, the former has a reputation of fleecing tourists, so compare prices before making your purchase. Go HERE to seek recourse.

4. Eat: Hainanese chicken rice, durian (king of all fruits), rojak (local salad), roti-john (barguette with omelet combo), chilli/pepper crabs... and the list goes on at the hawker centers (local foodcourts). Makansutra will guide you there.

5. Shop till you drop. From Orchard Road, where high-end retailers like Guess, Laura Ashley, Armani, and Zara can be found, to the suburbs, where prices go for a lark, there is something for everyone. The best times to shop in Singapore are June, when the Great Singapore Sale (GSS) is on, and December, a time of giving and receiving (and of stock clearance). To find out what is the latest sale in Singapore, visit this useful blog.

6. For a little history, hit the heritage trails of Chinatown, Little India, and Geylang Serai. For further information, go HERE. Or sign up for the Original Walking tours

7. Ride the Wacky Duck! The vehicles had so confused local officials here that getting the permit was quite a hassle for the poor entrepreneur. This is one unique and fun way for the whole family to see Singapore.

Best Way To Get Around:

Singapore is so small, one can travel by car from one end to the other in just 30 minutes. The most convenient and fastest way to travel here is by the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT, or subway). Fares start from S.70. Cost-saving day passes are excellent for tourists wishing to explore the city. A reminder, though: if you are purchasing a single-trip ticket, be sure to claim your S back at the end of each ride.

Taxis are the next alternative, they are easy to flag down and all fares are metered. Fares start from .40.

For more information, go HERE

Chef ChanBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Chef Chan
Located opposite the Grand Dame of Singapore, the Raffles Hotel, Chef Chan is a modest Chinese restaurant run by Chef Chan (of course) and is famed for its delicious Cantonese cuisine at reasonable prices. Hailing originally from Hong Kong, Chef Chan was credited for establishing some of the city’s finest Chinese restaurants before finally opening his own a few years ago. Supported by a group of loyal clientele, his restaurant is fast becoming a popular place for couples to hold their weddings there.

The decor of the restaurant is reminiscent of a movie set from a period Chinese drama/movie (well almost). Littered with huge red Chinese lanterns hanging from an exposed ceiling, the ambiance evokes a sense of intimacy among diners. Look out for his golden ladle, one of Chef Chan’s many awards that adorn a side of the wall. This is fine dining without snob appeal (not to mention a hole in the pocket).

Among the must try dishes here:
The crispy chicken is Chef Chan’s signature dish. This simple dish tests the skill of the chef. The skin of the chicken has to be thin and crispy, while the flesh remains tender and juicy. It reminded me of Peking duck, without the gamey taste.

The drunken prawns is another simple but yummy dish. The prawns are literally soaked in Chinese rice wine and steamed; the latter brings forth the sweetness of the prawns. Finger-licking good.

Try the dim sum, especially the signature ginger-flavoured egg tart. The egg custard is smooth and lightly flavoured with ginger, while the pastry is flaky. My favorites, however, are his clear soups, particularly the pumpkin chicken soup. It is light, yet fragrant. A perfect start to a meal.

How to get there:
By MRT: take the MRT to City Hall. From there, exit towards the Raffles city and make your way towards the Raffles Hotel. Look out for the glass-panelled restaurant across the hotel.

For more information: check out their website HERE

NB
Chef Chan will be closing on the 29th May 2007 as he plans to take a respite and work on other projects. In appreciation to all his customers, the restaurant is offering a 25% discount until the closing day.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on December 16, 2005

Chef Chan
331 North Bridge Rd. Singapore, Singapore
+65 6250-3363

Troquet (Le)Best of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Le Troquet"

Le Troquet
Le Troquet is a little French café situated in one of the most unlikely neighborhoods in Singapore. Balestier Road is known more for shops selling light and bathroom fixtures and the famed local Hokkien biscuits tar sar piah (flaky biscuits with bean paste). Coming across this little gem in such an out-of-the-way place is a surprise.

The restaurant has an open concept that lent the place a cosy and airy atmosphere. The menu changes weekly and the restaurant prides itself for promoting French cuisine by holding wine- and food-appreciation sessions in line with the French festivals.

This is one French restaurant you can go without worrying about dress code, differentiating which cutlery to use, and, most importantly, price. It lives up to its motto: a place to eat, a place to meet, and a place to linger with friends.

We had a leisurely lunch there one Saturday afternoon. Perhaps it was the location, but we were the only customers there. We ordered the set lunches, which featured their house specialties: pan-fried foie gras (an additional charge of S$8) and lobster bisque (the soup of the day) for starters, boeuf bourguignon as main course, and crème bruleee for dessert. The pan-fried foie gras was cooked to perfection, crisp on the outside, moist inside. It melted in our mouths. The lobster bisque was, well, more vegetable and tomato than lobster, but what the hey, for only SGD$18, with no service or GST charges, one cannot quibble. The boeuf bourguignon, or beef with red wine stew, was rustic and rich. We literally wiped the plate clean (just thinking about it makes me drool). The finale, crème brulee, was served cold. The custard was creamy, with a crisp caramel topping; the sweetness was offset by tart raspberries in the custard.

The service was attentive without being overbearing. Given that, my first experience at a French restaurant in Singapore (which has since closed) was a somewhat terrifying one (you would say that too if you had met the maitre d, who swooped down upon you every time he thought you made a faux paux at the table to deliver a 5-minute lecture on how the French would and would not behave). This place is one that I would not hesitate stepping in and spending quality time with friends and family.

Opening hrs: 10:30-10:30pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays and public holidays), 1-10pm (Sundays).
Closed on Mondays

How to get there:
The easiest way would be by taxi.
By train (MRT): alight at Novena station and exit towards Tan Tock Seng Hospital. It is approximately a 10-minute walk along Irrawaddy Road (with Tan Tock Seng hospital on your right). Turn right once you reached the end of Irrawaddy Road. It is in the corner next to a Tar Sau Piah shop.

For more information, go HERE.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Composthp on December 16, 2005

Troquet (Le)
Balestier Road 01-01 Singapore, Singapore
+65 6736 1070

Ma La steamboat
This hole-in-the-wall restaurant serves one of the meanest, spiciest, tongue-numbing Sichuan hotpot this side of town at a most affordable rate. The restaurant is favoured by students and well, anyone with a hearty appetite but a less than hearty wallet. The hotpot is placed on a portable gas cooker in the center of the table. It is divided into 2 and customers can chose to have 2 different stock bases. My favorite combination is milky chicken stock and ma la. You can request the level of tongue-numbing spiciness- there are 3 levels in all. Customers can pick from a wide variety of ingredients to add into the stock by ticking from the menu with a pencil provided. Servings are unlimited or limited to how much you can eat. Ingredients to add: assorted meatballs, mushrooms, vegetables, tofu, fish glue (fish paste on a plate), prawns, beef/ chicken/pork slices, homemade noodles; the list seemed endless.

The ingredients are placed in both or either side of the boiling hotpot and cooked slowly according to your liking. The secret to a good hotpot is to add the vegetables first for sweetness, the meat, followed by the seafood (when it is boiling). Care must be taken not to overcook the meat and the seafood however. Keep the soup for last for that is when it tastes best. The cooked food is either dipped in a sesame thick sauce or a home made concoction of spicy-hot, tongue numbing chillie sauce. This is leisurely way to share a meal with friends and family.

Tip
Be early or make reservations especially if you are going on weekends.
Service may be less than attentive during peak hours, so be patient.
Come prepared to sweat it out!

Opening hours: 11:30am to 3pm, 5:30 to 10:30pm daily

How much:
SGD$16.80 per person, drinks are charged separately. A surcharge of $5 is added whenever you ask for more stock.

Getting there:
Take the MRT and alight at Bugis MRT station. Exit towards Bugis Junction. Take the escalator up into Seiyu, from there, make your way to the fountain, look out for MacDonalds and head towards North Bridge road. It is across the street.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on December 30, 2005

Ting Yuan Ma La Hotpot
22, Liang Seah Street Singapore, Singapore
+65 6338 4755

Funan, the DigitaLife MallBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Funan, the DigitaLife Mall: Tech Alert 1!"

Funan and surrounds
Funan, the DigitaLife Mall and Sim Lim Square are the places to be if you are a tech buff. These places offer the latest gadgets and toys for the young and the young-at-heart, big boys in particular. Singapore offers the most competitive prices on the latest electronic toys and gadgets in comparison to its neighbours. To maximize your dollar, however, you will need to bargain, and bargain hard, especially if you intend to purchase from Sim Lim Square. Discounts may be in the form of monetary, upgrades, freebies, or all of the above.

Funan, the DigitaLife Mall and surrounds
This is my favorite hangout (that and the surrounds). The main concept of this mall is mainly to showcase the latest electronic toys for the big boys. From iPods to printers, laptops to PDA mobile phones, mini thumbdrives to portable hard drives, this mall has it all. The main tenant is Challenger on the 6th floor, which touts itself as selling the lowest-priced electronic merchandise in town (they have yet to convince me, though).

This is also the place to purchase DVDs and CDs. For anime fans, head on to LaserFlair on the ground floor. They also have an extensive range of the latest Korean, Japanese, and English movies and dramas. If it is music you are after, try Sembawang, the music store at the other end of the mall. Still can’t find what you need? Head out of the mall and down the road towards Peninsula Plaza. Gramaphone has a fairly good collection of contemporary, classical, jazz, and pop music at very reasonable prices.

To occupy bored spouses accompanying the big boys, there is a hair salon that not only gives you a professional haircut (unless you opt for a trainee) but lessons on hair care, stationery shops, bookshops, and a supermarket and food court in the basement. The foyer usually holds promotion fairs on weekends. Tired? There are sofas placed at strategic places throughout the mall and a huge plasma screen to staff boredom. Still unhappy while the big boys play fiddle with the gadgets? Check out the budget shops that lined Peninsula Plaza located next to Funan. These shops sell cheap souvenirs, sundries, and shoes at near warehouse prices.

How to get there:
Take the MRT and alight at the City Hall MRT station. Exit via St. Andrew’s cathedral and walk approximately 5 minutes. It is at the junction diagonally facing the church’s entrance.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on December 19, 2005

Funan, the DigitaLife Mall
109 North Bridge Road Singapore, Singapore

Sim Lim Square Tech SalesBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Sim Lim Square: Tech Alert 2!"

Sim Lim Square used to be a seedy mall selling pirated VCDs, CD-Rom software, and overpriced electronic goods. Since it was revamped some years ago, it is now a place for serious IT buffs to purchase the latest toys and accessories. Do not be surprise if you feel as if you have stepped into a military zone: as part of service improvement, service providers greet all customers as madam and sir with military precision, which is quite amusing actually.

However, some shops are still known to overcharge tourists. The rule of shopping here is that the higher you go, the cheaper you pay for the same goods. In short, do your homework, know what you want, and most importantly, compare prices and bargain hard (have fun while you’re at it, too).

If you think you may have been overcharged, do not fret, you can seek recourse from CASE, a local consumer watchdog, or their Small Claims Tribunal court. They assist customers seeking compensation/reimbursements from unscrupulous retailers.

Go HERE for an updated list of shops blacklisted by CASE.

How to get there:
Take the MRT and alight at Bugis station. Exit towards--aiyah, just take a taxi there, lah.

For serious buyers of electronic goods, time your visits to coincide with the IT fairs held at least four times a year, usually in March, June, September, and November. These fairs not only introduce the latest range from various big players, but it is also an excellent place to grab the best deals in town. Not only will the products be sold at a discount (more discounts if you pay cash), but they come with an array of accessories that could cost another few hundred dollars. They have become regular annual events here, so much so that a survival guide has been written to instruct first timers to these fairs.

If cameras are what you seek, and you are unable to time your visit with the IT fairs, Cathay Photo is an established store that sells all things photographic at very affordable prices (and that is before you bargain). I bought all my cameras here. Photography fans and freaks are known to flock there every weekend just to play with the latest toys or for a little chit chat with the like-minded. If you are looking for antique or second-hand cameras, head out to Adelphi, opposite Funan. This mall is quieter and less crowded, as its shops cater mostly to serious audiophiles and photographers.

For the latest updates on prices here or the latest toys or gossip, click HERE or HERE.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Composthp on December 19, 2005

Sim Lim Square Tech Sales
1 Rochor Canal Road Singapore, Singapore

Raffles City
Singapore is a secular country kept deliberately so for the sake of racial harmony. However, Singaporeans being Singaporeans (practical), Christmas is celebrated by everyone, regardless of race or religion. This is a time of spending and giving as many receive their year-end bonuses. It is a time for celebration and splurging. In short, while the Salvation Army bells are a ringing and the tillers go kachinging. The true meaning of Christmas is sadly buried under commercialism.

The streets, in particular Orchard Road, are fully decked with fairy lights, Santas, and all manner of Christmas-associated decor as early as October. Christmas carols fill the air ad nauseam (there are only so many times you can listen to "Jingle Bells"). Shopping malls from Far East plaza to Takashimaya to Centerpoint compete with innovative and elaborate decorations that awe, amuse, and lure the unsuspecting customers in.

It is shopaholic alert as malls pull off all manner of promotions, from money vouchers for every S$100 purchase, rebates, freebies, free bus shuttles, free gift wrapping, extended shopping hours (till 1am!) to discounts on merchandise: what are you waiting for?

However, all is not lost as Christians and Catholics go forth to spread the good news in forms of plays, musicals, and caroling in malls, hospitals, and public auditoriums. Visit the Novena Church along Thomson Road (exit Novena MRT station) or the St Andrew’s Cathedral in City Hall (exit City Hall MRT station) for a touch of the Christmas spirit. These Catholic churches are perhaps among the oldest churches in Singapore, with a long tradition and history.

Warning:
*1. If you are adverse to crowds, avoid Orchard Road at all cost during this season.
*2. Keep your valuables close at hand--where the crowds are so are the pickpockets.

Here’s a full listing of what’s what in the Christmas season.

More details here
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Composthp on December 19, 2005
Toa Payoh bus interchange
If high end, expensive labels like Chanel and LV are beyond budget, head for the heartlands. This is where locals shop for their daily necessities, eat and hang out. Labels like Giodarno, Baleno and Hang Ten reign supreme with huge SALE signs to attract all and sundry.

Toa Payoh, or “Big Swamp” is one of the oldest estate in Singapore. Visited by Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 1972, this estate has undergone a lot of changes since. From covered walkways, a new state of the art public library to the first air-conditioned bus interchange, it is a model estate for others to imitate. This busy little suburb continues to attract people from all walks of life with its cheap shopping and yummy local foods.

Begin your tour of Toa Payoh from the HDB Hub. Exit from the Toa Payoh MRT station via exit A. Walk straight towards HDB Hub and turn right, after Delifrance. This is the “home” for the Fabric of the Nation. The colourful panels of quilts were painstakingly stitched together by Singaporeans depicting their emotions and thoughts of what Singapore was to them.

Make your way out of the building and into the mall. Wonder through the shops and narrow walkways at your whim and fancy. Interesting sights to look out for: a little temple amidst an ancient banyan tree. Tales that the Banyan tree is inhibited by spirits used to scare me when I was younger. Despite countless of facelifts around it, this “temple” manages to retain its charm.

Need to buy cheap toiletries and cosmetics? This mall has shops on either side selling just that. From SK 2 to Clarins, these shops have ‘em all. Shoes going for as little as SGD$9.90, hair accessories and lingerie are also available. This is THE place to shop without worrying about burning a hole in your pocket.

Hungry? Toa Payoh boasts many local delights that have won rave reviews from local food critics. Try the beef steak (local style) from the food stall located next to the little “temple”, or any of the Malay favorites like mee rebus, mee siam. The food stalls serve food primarily for the Muslims and have managed to coexist peacefully with the Buddhist shrine for as long as I can remember. Prices start from SGD$2.50. Other not to be missed local foods are Hainanese chicken rice, rojak (fruit/vegetable salad in shrimp paste), wanton noodles etc that are available around this mall. Here too, you can get seasonal fruits like durians (you can smell them from afar) from the local fruit shop tucked among shops selling hand phones and jewelry.

If you are tired of walking, take a breather at the foot of the block opposite the National library (a distinctive orange building that demands everyone’s attention). Here, retirees while their time away with a game of Chinese chess.You can easily spend a lazy afternoon here without realizing it.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on December 27, 2005

Shopping in the Heartlands
Jalan Toa Payoh Singapore, Singapore

MacRitchie Reservoir ParkBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Into the Woods: MacRitchie Reservoir and the Tree Top Walk"

HSBC Tree Top Walk
The central catchment nature reserve, or more commonly known among locals as the MacRitchie reservoir used to strike terror in my not-so-athletic body. Spanning over 100ha of primary forest with various hiking trails for nature lovers, this was and still is a cross-country training ground for aspiring runners. For some unfathomable reason, we (students) were made to run the 1.6 -2.4km mosquito-infested trail annually (unless you have exemption from the doctors). The bane of my youth.

Laws were relaxed recently to encourage more people to seek nature. There are now more facilities and attractions here. It is no longer a place for couples seeking privacy; fishing (no live baits) and canoeing are now allowed. However, the star attraction would be the HSBC TreeTop walk. Opened in 2004 at the cost of SGD$1.6m, the tree top walk spans 250m long and 25m high. It offers panoramic views of the canopy and of Upper Peirce Reservoir.

There are 2 routes to the TreeTop walk. The first is from MacRitchie Reservoir Park via MacRitchie Nature Trail while the second, shorter route is via Venus Drive, off Upper Thomson Road. The distance to the TreeTop Walk is about 5 km (1.5-2 hrs walk) from the reservoir park and 2.5 km (30 mins- 45 mins walk) from the carpark at Venus Drive. A round trip including the TreeTop Walk may be about 7 to 10 km, approximately 3-5 hours depending on your walking pace.

We started our hike from the MacRitchie reservoir trail but instead of hiking back to the reservoir, we chose to "short-cut" by way of Venus drive, passing the Singapore Island Country club and onto Upper Thomson road. The suspension bridge was quite sturdy and offered a different perspective of the forest. Signs posting explanations of the various flora and fauna along the bridge give visitors a better picture.

We completed this easy hike in less than 3 hours (sans mosquito bites). A short bus ride (2 bus-stops from across the road) down Upper Thomson road brought us to the famed Crispy Roti Prata house (pizza Indian-styled) for a yummy lunch of roti prata and teh tarik ("pulled" tea-Indian styled).

Opening Hours
Tue to Fri: 9am – 5pm
Sat, Sun and Public Holidays: 8:30am - 5pm
Note: The HSBC TTW is closed on Mondays except public holidays for maintenance and research.

Getting to MacRitchie Reservoir:
By Bus
Take bus nos. 74, 93, 130, 132, 156, 157, 162, 165, 166, 167, 605, 852, 855 or 980. Alight along Lornie Road at the bus-stop in front of MacRitchie Reservoir Park.

Getting to Venus Drive
By Bus
Take bus nos. 132, 163, 165, 166, 167, 640, 855 or 980. Alight along Upper Thomson Road near junction with Sing Ming Ave.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on December 29, 2005

MacRitchie Reservoir Park
Lornie Road Singapore

Fort Canning ParkBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Fort Canning Park, a little oasis in the concrete jungle"

Spice garden: shades of Narnia?
Fort Canning is an 18ha park tucked in one of the busiest area in Singapore. Its rich history dates back to the early 14th century when Singapore was then known as Temasek. Locals named it the 'Forbidden Hill' until the arrival of Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819. He renamed it as 'Government hill' and built his home there.

The fort was built by the British and named after Viscount Charles John Canning, the first Viceroy of India in 1861. It became a British battleground command center during the Second World War and was the site where the British made the fateful decision to surrender to the Japanese. The Battle box located 9 meters underground tells this historical moment through the use of audiovisuals and clay figurines.

The 19th-century walking trail brings visitors to the key features of this era. Remnants of the Christian cemetery can be seen at the Fort Canning Gothic Gate. Tombstones embedded into the wall leading to the Fort Canning center give visitors a glimpse of a bygone era. The mature spice garden was the site of Singapore’s first botanical gardens, established primarily by Sir Stamford Raffles for experimental purposes. The pandan-scented garden is now a main source of food for local fauna and a showcase of local herbs and spices. Scattered throughout the park are heritage trees like the raintree. These are mature trees that have been ear-marked by heritage board, a concerted local effort to save such trees from the chain saw.

Fort Canning is also believed to be a sacred burial ground for the last ruler of Temesak Iskandar Syah in the 14th century. Follow the 14th century walking trail to the Javanese-inspired Keramat to learn more about the sultan. This trail also leads visitors pass an archaeological dig and exhibition area, the only one in Singapore. It offers detailed history and description of the pre-colonial period.

Overlooking the park is the Fort Canning Center. This restored military barrack is now a major cultural venue and residence of the Singapore Dance Theatre and Theatreworks. Performances are held here periodically, the most popular are the “Ballet under the Stars” series where audience picnicked on the grounds while watching the performance.

For many Singaporeans however, Fort Canning park is a favorite photographic back drop for newly wedded couples. Of course, it helps that the Registry of Marriages is located just next door.

Major Entrances
Hill Street, National Library Car Park, Percival Road, River Valley Road, Canning Walk (behind Park Mall).

Go HERE for detailed information.

Getting there:
Visit this site for details
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on January 1, 2006

Fort Canning Park
11 Canning Walk Singapore, Singapore 178881
+65 6338 1212

Chinatown (General)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "15 Days of Lunar New Year: Chinatown"

Chinese New Year decorations
Chinese New Year (CNY) or Chun Jie (Spring Festival) is the most important Chinese festival celebrated here. The CNY celebrates the coming of spring. In tropical Singapore however, it signifies new beginnings. It is a time for family gatherings, house hopping among relatives and friends with exchanges of Mandarin oranges and ang pows (token sum of money in red packets) for good luck, and of course, great feasting.

Preparations for the Lunar New Year begin the week after Christmas. Santa Claus is replaced by the God of Fortune, carols by CNY songs and stores are decked up in auspicious red. The best place to be during this festive season is Chinatown. The following are some highlights:

Week before CNY
Housewives began to hoard festive goods. The best time to visit Chinatown is after 5pm when Chinatown comes alive with activity. Try bak kwa, pork slices or mince lay flat and air-dried. This is the local version of beef jerky. 2 notable shops here are: Bee Cheng Hiang and Lee Chee Guan. Queues during this season are legendary.

CNY Eve
Housewives go into frenzy and descend upon Chinatown for last minute shopping. CNY Goods are slashed up to 80% as retailers frantically dump their goods so that they can close shop quickly and enjoy the New Year too. It is ritual among many to visit Chinatown after the reunion dinner to grab last minute bargains. Of recent years, Chinatown is also THE place to usher in the CNY with performances by foreign and local stars and spectacular fireworks following countdown.

Day 1 and 2 of CNY
CNY is ushered in with honeyed words and feasting. No foul language please, no sweeping or housework of any sort (for what if you sweep away good luck?), families dressed in new clothes (red is preferred) began customary visitations to relatives with exchange of ang pows and mandarin oranges. Chinatown becomes a ghost town as most shops close for the season.

Day 3
The third day is considered an inauspicious day for visiting. In realistic Singapore, this is the start of the work week.

Day 7
Known as Ren Ri (People's day), the seventh day is celebrated with a unique custom Lau Hei. Colleagues, family and friends gather together to toss yu sheng (raw fish salad). The higher the salad is tossed, the better. In fact, it is such a popular ritual that it has become an almost daily affair during the CNY period. Pre-packed dried Yu Sheng is available in many grocery shops and makes unique souvenirs.

Day 15
Also known as the Chinese Valentine's day, unmarried women wishing to find their mate gather at the Singapore river under the cover of night to throw Mandarin oranges into the river (littering is an offence here you know).

The Chingay Procession
This is held on the last Saturday before the 15th day. Usually in Orchard road but extending to Chinatown, this is a parade of colorful floats and street performances reflecting the multi-ethnic community here.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Composthp on January 1, 2006

Chinatown (General)
Singapore, Singapore

Muslim Food court in Toa Payoh
Hawker centers are precursor of food courts here. They are essentially a hotchpotch of food stalls under one roof. Local fare is predominantly featured although in recent years; young enterprising chefs have broken away from high end restaurants to set up their own stalls offering western fare like steaks, fish and chips, pasta and burgers.

Dishes at hawker centers start as little as SGD$2 but at food courts, prices start from SGD$3 upwards (got air-con mah). Hawker centers can be found all suburbs while food courts are usually found in shopping malls, hospitals and office buildings.

Dining etiquette 101:

1.Chose seats nearest to the stall you intend to patronize. This is more for convenience but at certain hawker centers, it is also territorial.

2.Tissue paper, newspapers, umbrellas are common and accepted items used to "chope" (reserve) seats. This practice seemed more predominant at food centers in Shenton way. Note: this practice is unique to Singapore, do not try this elsewhere.

3.Take note of the number on the table and inform the stall owner when you place your order (unless it is a self-service food stall).

4.You can order from as many food stalls as you like, that is the beauty of hawker centers.

5.Avoid peak hours if possible; 12-1:30pm are a no-no unless you love crowds and are prepared to wait.

6.For popular food stalls (look for the super long queues), ask for the waiting time, especially if it is not self-service. You may need to remind them of your order from time to time.

7.Do not expect service of any kind, the more popular the food stall is, the ruder they become (but that’s the minority).

8.Do not be surprise if a pack of tissue is suddenly shoved into your face. Touts selling tissue, soft toys and lottery tickets are common sights at hawker centers.

9.You do not have to clear the cutlery at the end of the meal although it would be much appreciated by the cleaner (they may not show it though).

10.Singlish is preferred to English. If you encounter communication problem, there is always the finger (no, not the 3rd finger, point to the picture of the food you want to order using your thumb placed over your forefinger, fist-like). Otherwise, refer HERE for some quick lessons on Singlish.

Die Die Must Try
1.Hainanese chicken rice
This is essentially steamed chicken with fragrant pandan rice served with minced garlic, chilli and black sweet sauce.

2.Char Kway Teow
Another one of my favorite. It's stir-fried flat rice noodles and yellow egg noodles with clams, bean sprouts, slices of Chinese sausages in pork lard. It takes good cooking technique to produce a great tasting char kway teow.

3.Roti prata
This is Indian-styled pizza. Very cheap and good breakfast food. Comes in plain or with egg, eaten with sugar sprinkled on top or with curry gravy. Nowadays however, pratas are becoming more creative, we now have it with all sorts of unorthodox fillings like cheese and ice cream. It is no longer just a breakfast dish.

4.Roti John
The story goes that foreigners kept demanding this foodstall for baguette and omelette. The quick thinking cook came up with this fusion dish. It is basically a version French toast, baguette with onion omelette. Go Here for the full story.

5.Rojak
Another local favorite. It is a mix of turnip, cucumber, pineapple, bean sprouts, green apple, fried fritters (you tiao and tau pok) in prawn paste -peanut-chilli sauce. A little spicy, a litte sweet, a little sour and a lot of crunch.

6.Durian- cake, puffs, crepes, chendol, ice kacang..anything with durian lah. Singaporeans are great fans of the king of the fruits- the durian. You cannot blame us for trying to add it into everything.

7.Mutton soup
Chinese, Indian and Malay versions differ but all are artery clotting yummy.

8.Kaya toast with half boiled eggs and coffee
This traditional breakfast food has been elevated to a new high by Yakun. Kaya is a cholesterol laden local jam made of coconut, egg and sugar. Spread it on crispy toast accompanied by half boiled eggs with a dash of pepper and soy sauce, finish the meal with a cup of strong black coffee...bliss.

9.Nonya kuehs
These are traditional Peranankan cakes and desserts. Easily found at Bengawan Solo shops .
10.Chilli crab.
No trip to Singapore is complete without at least trying the Chilli or pepper crab. Spicy fiery crabs (those from Sri Lanka is preferred) is stir fried simply in assorted spices.

Check out Makansutra for more information on where to go for the best of the best.

About the Writer

Composthp
Composthp
Singapore, Singapore

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