Mukuntuweap – Splendors of Zion

Mukuntuweap means “straight canyon” in Southern Paiute language. The canyon walls rise stark and perpendicular from the meandering Virgin River. The Nuwuvi (the Southern Paiutes’ name for themselves, the “people”) were preceded by more ancient peoples in Mukuntuweap, Puebloan and Fremont. They revered paa - water, as do all indigenous cultures living in desert environments. And paa, largely responsible for Zion’s shape and form, is the force to be reckoned with and held sacred here.

Return to Zion: We camped here in July 1990. It was hotter than blazes then, and after hiking in the earlier part of the few days we stayed, we spent languid afternoons immersed in the Virgin River next to our campsite, looking up through the trees at the impressive canyon walls while the cool, gentle river waters flowed over us. Fifteen years later, we returned in a cooler season, the last weekend in October. The weather was perfect, trees turning gold, but campgrounds were surprisingly crowded. We hadn’t counted on the hordes of Nevadans choosing Zion as their destination for their three-day weekend. Nevada Days is in its 20th year celebrating 140 years of statehood.

Pure visual delights are simply everywhere you look and wander. Red, tan and white Navajo sandstone deceptively frozen in massive cliffs, buttes and mountains changes from brilliantly glowing in sunlight to no less beautiful more subtly muted as light leaves the canyon. Where predominating Navajo sandstone layers meet the less porous Kayenta formation, seeps, springs, and hanging gardens flourish, often in the most unlikely of places. Prickly pear cacti and yuccas thrive around the corner from where delicate maidenhair ferns and mosses proliferate in moist shaded seeps.

Hikers’ paradise: Whether you prefer an easy stroll or strenuous overnight backpacking adventure, you’ll have no shortage of choices at Zion. Though you can view many Zion landmarks from the shuttle along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, to get more of a feel of Mukuntuweap, you must get out and explore on foot. Bob and I took the most popular mile-long Riverside Walk together. I took some walks and hikes alone: Pa’rus Trail along the Virgin River, shared with bicycles, dripping Weeping Rock, surprise-around-every-bend Canyon Overlook, east of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, and Watchman Trail, less dramatic, but soothing in solitude. Halloween Monday morning at sunrise, I didn’t meet one other hiker.

For more highlights, check out Tidbits and Treats of Zion.

Quick Tips:

The Visitor Center should be your first stop. Helpful displays give suggested activities for those with only a few hours in the park, and others for those with a day or more. Inside, rangers man counters for general information and backcountry planning and permits.

Take a load off… Ride the shuttle. Most of the season, you will be forced to do so to get from point A to point B, because cars are restricted from Zion Scenic Canyon Drive beyond Canyon Junction.

When hiking, be prepared. Dress in layers, bring water and trail mix, protect your head with a broad-brimmed hat or cap, and wear sunscreen.

Flashfloods are always a possibility along Zion’s waterways. Their highest likelihood in the Narrows and other slot canyons is in the summer months when warm thunderstorms dumping rain onto the parched desert highlands can quickly create deadly fast-moving torrents of muddy water carrying lethal debris. If the unwary hiker doesn’t drown, he or she can be knocked senseless or severely injured by logs, boulders, or other heavy objects. That’s why it’s imperative to check at the ranger station for the possibility/probability of thundershowers/flashfloods before entering the Narrows or other slots.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting There: The closest major airport is Las Vegas International, 150 miles west. St. George Municipal Airport, 46 miles southwest in St. George, is served by Delta and United Airlines, both operated by SkyWest, several times a day with flights to and from Salt Lake City and Los Angeles. Budget, National, Avis and Hertz cars can be rented at the airport.

The park’s main entrance is the south entrance at the town of Springdale. From St. George take I-15 north to exit 16 (Highway 9); from Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 27 (Highways 17 and 9). Lesser-visited Kolob Canyons, the northern portion of Zion Park, is easily accessible from I-15, exit 40.

Getting around while there: From April through October, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (a park road off Rt. 9) is accessible by park shuttle only. Rt. 9, which traverses the park from east to west, is open year-round to private vehicles. Shuttle is free, no pets allowed, but bikes and wheelchairs are welcome. Big rigs need special assistance to navigate the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel, for a fee. Check out this detailed description of Zion’s transportation system.

Best Things Nearby:
Zion National Park, featuring tremendous views wherever you look. The Watchman, at 6545 feet, dominates the view to the south. To the east, taller by more than 200 feet than Watchman, Bridge Mountain. To the west, visible depending on how treed your site is, Mount Kinesava, West Temple, the Alter of Sacrifice nestled by Towers of the Virgin, all touching the sky at well over 7000 feet. Fantastic hikes of all lengths and degrees of ease and difficulty. Mountain climbing. Biking the Pa’rus Trail and Scenic Drive beyond Mt. Carmel Highway junction. Town of Springdale right across the bridge, with an IMAX theater, gift shop, and restaurants. Remainder of town with more restaurants and galleries a couple of miles down Highway 9.

Best Things About the Resort:
Awe-inspiring views in all directions. The Virgin River. Spacious sites, room for RVs up to 40 feet, separate loops for tents only, separate group campsite.

Resort Experience:
We spent the remaining three nights of our five-day Zion stay at Watchman. We’d hoped to camp here for our full stay, since for only $1 more, electric hookups were available. However, we learned upon arrival that this reservation-system campground was full through Saturday, so we camped at neighboring South Campground the first two nights. On Sunday of the last weekend in October, Watchman Campground changes from reservation to drive-up. So just before 11am Sunday morning, that’s exactly what we did.

We’d checked out Watchman’s layout before, so knew that we wanted a site on A-loop, smaller and more open than B-loop. The campground is composed of five loops, A through E. A and B-loops are for RVs and have electric hookups, and many riverside sites. Group sites (E-loop), C-loop for tents only, and walk-in campsites were closed for the season. D-loop remained open for tents. Watchman Campground has a different “feel” from South Campground, in that the sites are distinctly segregated between RVer and tent sites.

We picked a riverside site, at which the Virgin River wasn’t visible from the site itself, due to an embankment built to protect the campground during flashfloods. This embankment also serves as a cottonwood shaded path that leads to the entrance station and visitor center. Even when not seen, the river makes its presence known through its voice, the continuous, melodious rushing of water flowing at a good pace. Across the river we spied buildings that we at first mistook for park administration. After I crossed the bridge just north of the campground at the Visitor Center, though, I found myself in the northernmost section of the town of Springdale. A convenient grocery store, several restaurants, a gift shop, and an IMAX theater made up the complex.

At our campsite, we enjoyed watching squirrels frolic around the barbecue pit, and the many birds attracted to the riparian environment. There’s a bit less human commotion in the RV loops at Watchman, than at South Campground, due to a complete restriction on the use of generators, and no noisy tenters, who tend to get a bit exuberant outdoors after enough beers and giddiness from campfire smoke.

During non-reservation season, Watchman runs itself using a self-pay station, and campground hosts are quick to check out new arrivals as well as make sure campers leave when they’re supposed to. Six restrooms are scattered throughout the five loops. A day-use picnic area borders the north end of A-loop. If prizes were given out for most scenic dump stations, Watchman Campground would surely be a contender. The campground’s namesake, imposing Watchman Peak, stands guard behind and far above the dump area.

Cost: $18/site, $20 riverside site, half-price Golden Age or Eagle passports.

• Campground Type: National Park
• Campsite Type: RV
• Price Range: $10 - $20
• Cleanliness: Very Good
• Campground Facilities: Very Good
• Recreational Facilities: Excellent
• Campsite Satisfaction: Excellent
• Family Friendliness: Satisfactory
• Service: Satisfactory

Best Things Nearby:
Zion National Park, featuring tremendous views wherever you look. The Watchman, at 6545 feet, dominates the view to the south. To the east, taller by more than 200 feet than Watchman, Bridge Mountain. To the west, a veritable who’s who of impressive landmarks, Mount Kinesava, West Temple, the Alter of Sacrifice nestled by Towers of the Virgin, all touch the sky at well over 7000 feet. Fantastic hikes of all lengths and degrees of ease and difficulty. Mountain climbing. Biking the Pa’rus Trail and Scenic Drive beyond Mt. Carmel Highway junction. Town of Springdale, with numerous galleries, an IMAX, and restaurants.

Best Things About the Resort:
Awe-inspiring views in all directions. The Virgin River. Spacious sites, room for RVs up to 40 feet and lots of tents.

Resort Experience:
We camped here in 1990 in our old Open Road camper, but this time, 15 years later in our 38-foot motor home, we were planning to snag an electric site at neighboring Watchman Campground. Bob had spoken with park staff on the phone earlier in the week, and was told, “no problem”; it wasn’t that busy anymore this late in the year (end of October). Imagine our surprise when we drove up to the entrance station at Watchman and were told, “Sorry, we’re full, sites have been reserved months ahead of time. But there are still open sites at South…”

Pulling into South Campground, a big sign informed us that they would be closing for the season on Monday. The camp host told us that by then, there would be plenty of sites available at Watchman though, their reservation system ending on Sunday. So we decided to stay for two nights at South, and the remaining three nights at Watchman. We found a spacious site with a seemingly good southern exposure (think satellite), and settled in. So although things ended well for us, the lesson to be learned is, it’s best to make reservations (only possible at Watchman) especially in the busy summer season, and even on popular Fall weekends, to be assured of a site. South Campground closes for the season the last weekend in October, and re-opens the second week in April. It remains first-come, first-served the entire season.

South Campground is ideally situated north of the Visitor Center, a five minute walk away, and the Virgin River runs along its east side, with plenty of access points from the campground. Due to Zion campgrounds’ and park’s extremely heavy visitation, many areas are fenced off to prevent vegetation from being trampled by humanity, and it’s not permitted to gather firewood. On the northern border of the campground sits a nature center building, closed during our stay. Walk-in tent sites are also on the northeast end, near the river. Popular Pa’rus hiking-biking trail begins at and skirts the eastern edge of South, along the Virgin River.

Camp hosts are located at the entry, and hop in their golf cart driving over to newly self-registered and paid campers to mark their tags and answer any questions. A nice feature of South Campground is that you’ll find the full range of camping here, from luxury motor homes to the tiniest tents. We found fellow campers to be considerate for the most part. Generator usage is only allowed between 8-10AM, and 6-8PM. The only camping faux pas we were aware of, was committed by a couple a few sites down that blared their radio loudly while they were taking down their tent, earning Bob’s scowl as we walked by.

Cost: $16/site; half-price Golden Age or Eagle passports.

• Campground Type: National Park
• Campsite Type: RV
• Price Range: $10 - $20
• Cleanliness: Very Good
• Campground Facilities: Satisfactory
• Recreational Facilities: Excellent
• Campsite Satisfaction: Very Good
• Family Friendliness: Satisfactory
• Service: Very Good

The looks of historic Pioneer Restaurant and Lodge, only one mile from Zion Park entrance, appealed to us as we scouted out Springdale for places to eat. The building is built of bricks the same colors of Zion canyon walls, accented by vigorous blooming lavender bushes thriving in the narrow strip of dirt between building and sidewalk. Prices on the menu looked reasonable, so we settled ourselves in a cozy corner booth in the front dining room.

Décor is rustic country style, with big wagon-wheels hanging on one wall. I ordered Utah red trout fillet for $9.99 and Bob chose country grilled chicken breast, $11.29. Entrees came with serve-yourself salad bar, including soup and bread. I helped myself to a basic green salad, while Bob took two platefuls of all the different kinds offered; the seafood salad (imitation crab) was especially tasty. We also both really liked the creamy veggie-corn chowder. My coffee came in a big Pioneer Restaurant mug that was refilled quickly and often.

A baked potato accompanied my herbed trout with tartar sauce and lemon on the side, just the right amount of everything to satisfy me. (I’d ordered the “junior” portion.) Bob had fries with his chicken, two nicely browned breasts, and uttered no complaints. The other potato option was mashed potatoes. When we ordered, our waitress admitted they were half from fresh potatoes and half instant. Yuckk! Glad I asked!

Pioneer Restaurant is open daily for breakfast (7am), lunch, and dinner (11:30am until closing). Menus for each meal are fairly extensive, with the emphasis on traditional American country cooking. Fried, grilled and broiled cuts are offered in lighter and more hefty sizes, but the addition of the salad bar at no extra charge to all entrees make every meal substantial. Several vegetarian selections are included in both lunch and dinner menus. A long list of sandwiches and some hot selections are offered for lunch.

Pioneer Lodge used to be known as Allred's, and has gone through several incarnations prior to its current one. These days, besides restaurant and rooms, amenities include gift and coffee shops, pool and spa, and Pioneer’s the home base for Guided Segway Tours around Zion. Just up the street from the lodge towards Zion, don’t miss Zion Canyon Elk Ranch, on which you’ll find elk, longhorn cattle, bison, and miniature donkeys, clearly visible from the street. Two gorgeous white Texas longhorn came right up to the fence to check us out.

Zion Lodge is not the most impressive of national park lodges we’ve visited (that would have to be the Ahwahnee in Yosemite). Architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed both the Ahwahnee and Zion Lodges, among other famous national park lodges. Unfortunately, the original Zion Lodge, built in 1927, burned down almost 40 years ago (1966). A work crew using blowtorches to remove old vinyl flooring started the fire. Although the lodge was hurriedly rebuilt in rustic wood and stone, it lacks the beauty of the original. A 1992 remodeling project attempted to restore some of the more attractive features of the original lodge. Some historic rustic cabins were spared from the fire.

Zion Canyon’s first white settler, Isaac Behunin, built his cabin across the river from here in 1862. By 1916, a cluster of tourist tents and dining pavilion was operating in the fledgling national monument at this site.

Today, Xanterra concessionaire operates Zion Lodge. Hotel rooms, cabins and suites accommodate tourists at Zion Lodge, with rates running from $80 for a hotel room in winter to $149 for a suite in peak season (March-November). Xanterra’s Ecologix environmental management system strives to logically integrate ecology and business in its approach. Environmental sustainability is a priority. At Zion Lodge, they’ve installed solar panels on their buildings, and purchase some of their energy from windmills.

Outdoor Castledome Café was buzzing during Halloween weekend, but appeared closed afterwards. Not so Red Rock Grill upstairs at the lodge. We enjoyed soup and salad bar one evening for $9.25 apiece. It seemed a bit steep at that price, for the limited selections. Two kinds of soup were offered: a hearty vegetable-beef and too-thick, bland vegetarian lentil. Warm crusty bread was brought to our table in a basket. Fresh lettuce, Spring blend, and spinach leaves provided a good base for a green salad, with basic veggies to add to it, but only one other type of salad, a three-bean. Dinner entrees range from $13.50 for a vegetarian pasta to $20.95 for New York steak and prime rib. A Zion-themed children’s menu (age 12 and under) has a good choice of selections at reasonable prices (most around $5) for both lunch and dinner.

Phone: 435-772-3213
Website: http://www.zionlodge.com

Length round trip: 1.0 mile
Ascent/descent: 163 feet

Between trailhead and parking area, a small crowd had gathered to observe and photograph bighorn sheep on either side of the road. The solitary bighorn silhouetted in afternoon light seemed to be taking pleasure in posing for us humans, if such a thing were possible. Two others across the road were on the move, foraging. While Bob remained below admiring the bighorns and chatting with tourists, the short hike to the much-touted overlook proved too tempting for me.

This hike is described in the Zion trail guide as moderate, yet the sign at the trailhead says it’s easy. Most of the dropoffs adjacent to the trail, which are incredibly far down and long, are fenced, but some are not; obviously, especially when the trail surface is wet, one must take extreme caution traversing the unrailed sections. Today, sunny, somewhat hazy, and dry-as-a-bone, those open severe dropoffs, one wrong step to oblivion, still took my breath away.

Climbing up stone steps, a good view is afforded of the east entrance of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Continuing up the trail into a side canyon, the trail is lined with box elder, piñon pine, shrub liveoak, and Utah serviceberry. Around a bend, railing begins along with a great view downwards of Pine Creek Narrows, a slot canyon and tributary of the Virgin River.

Railed boardwalk scaffolding is a bit of a surprise, but nothing compared to what is just beyond it, a cave-like overhang containing a line of seeps with flourishing maidenhair ferns. This peaceful place has been formed over the centuries by the water gradually seeping out at a shale layer, causing disintegration of the sandstone above and below it. Just beyond this overhang you’ll find one of the steep unrailed sections before a small switchback leads to some wonderful rock formations and a sandy area in which grow smooth red-barked manzanita shrubs.

Past the sandy section, slickrock begins, very secure walking when dry, slippery when wet. Good examples of desert varnish can be observed coating some of the rocks here. The “varnish” is caused by a complex interplay between clay, manganese, iron oxide, and bacteria. Bacteria capture windblown clay particles on the rock, making a film. Water, manganese and iron cement the clay into a glossy dark coating.

 

Canyon Overlook is the end of this trail, providing wide, far, and deep views of Pine Creek Canyon, Mt. Carmel Highway switchbacks, and beyond, Zion Canyon. In spite of some late afternoon haze, views were spectacular. At the viewpoint, a metal semi-circular plaque on a stone pedestal indicates many of Zion’s landmark mountains etched and named, so you can identify them as you look out. From Bridge Mountain on the left, to East Temple on the far right, in between you can see West Temple, Sundial, Altar of Sacrifice, the Streaked Wall, and the Beehives.

Length round trip: 0.5 mile
Ascent/descent: 98 feet

Weeping Rock parking lot is a trailhead for numerous hikes. Besides the quickie hike to Weeping Rock itself, from the same trailhead, one can access Hidden Canyon, Echo Canyon, and Observation Point, all strenuous uphill treks with long dizzying dropoffs. Yellowing Fremont cottonwoods, velvet ash, and occasional red big-leaf maple line the stream draining from Weeping Rock; informational signs along this short nature trail allow for breathers. Two kinds of columbine flourish trailside, one adapted to moist, the other dryer (canyon wall) environment.

Suddenly it’s shower time. Drops splash my face as I crane my neck backwards to gaze up at the source of the water, a fluted, mossy wall with clumps of fern growing from the recesses. Steps to the left lead to an imposing rock overhang, where it’s a bit drier. Down the steps hop a couple of little boys who’ve found the wettest place, right on the steps, and are lingering long enough to get sopping wet.

The bulging out part of the overhang resembles a mushroom cap embedded into the cliff wall, with shaded gills underneath blending into the wall. A concrete platform and waist high brick wall have been built into this natural overhang. Stripes of white, tan, green and reddish-brown intermingle on the back wall of the overhang, combinations of sandstone, minerals, and mosses. After climbing the steps to the highest portion, the Great White Throne, impressive in its magnitude, is partially visible from Weeping Rock overlook. It was named by Reverend Frederick Vining Fisher during his naming expedition to Zion in 1916. Stunned by its majesty, he named it after the Throne of God.

Springs such as Weeping Rock occur when water-saturated Navajo sandstone, the predominant geologic feature in Zion, meet with older less permeable Kayenta clay-based siltstone or mudstone. Millions of years ago, streambeds were covered with blowing desert sand. Over time, both layers solidified into a thin shale (Kayenta) and thick sandstone (Navajo sandstone). Rain and snowmelt from the 7500 foot high Colorado Plateau soak into the sandstone, moving sideways when reaching the hard shale, then emerging as springs and seeps in the canyons.

Weeping Rock is a favorite for Zion visitors of all ages. Kids love taking a shower in the middle of a hike, especially refreshing on hot days. Vegetation is lush year round, and the glistening wetness, multi-colored rocks, and viewpoint of nearby monoliths are always beautiful.

We kept waiting for a bad weather day to go to the museum, but Zion in October gifted us with one gorgeous day after another. On our last perfect day in the park, we decided it was then or never, and took a couple of hours to check out the museum. The 20 minute orientation film plays continuously in the theater and is a good introduction to the park. This small museum focuses on how humans have influenced and been influenced by Zion.

Museum displays reveal that humans have hunted, gathered, and cultivated in Zion Canyon as early as 2500 to 7000 years ago. Between 100 BC and 1200 AD Ancestral Puebloan peoples lived on small, scattered farms in southern Zion along the Virgin River and Parunuweap Canyon. Pit-house dwelling farmers lived in the northern portion of the park, during this same timeframe.

Southern Paiute, encountered by pioneers traveling through and settling in southwestern during the 1800’s, may have descended from the pit house dwellers around 1100 AD. These nomadic and highly adaptable people lived in balance with their mostly desert environment, taking advantage of the seasons’ bounties as they traveled in regions shared with other tribes.

Spanish padres and American fur traders made forays into the lands around Zion, but the Mormons were the ones to finally penetrate Zion Canyon itself. Nephi Johnson is believed to be the first white person to view its splendors in 1858. In 1863, Isaac Behunin became the first white man to settle in the canyon, and named it Zion, place of refuge. Soon other farmers and stockmen followed, settling the flat areas along the Virgin River. Major John Wesley Powell further explored and mapped Zion and various side canyons in 1871-72.

In the meantime, the Southern Paiute weren’t faring too well. Settlers introduced domestic plants and animals that competed with indigenous plants and wildlife, compromising sources of Paiute foods. Paiute tribes had already been severely decimated by human communicable diseases brought by white men. Eventually, efforts were made to remove those Paiute that remained to the Uinta Reservation, but many managed to stay on their beloved lands. As of recently, surviving Kaibab Band Paiutes are allowed entry to Zion for sacred ceremonies and plant gathering.

After a local surveyor presented a report of the Zion region to the U.S. Department of the Interior, Mukuntuweap National Monument was established in 1909. Local Mormons preferred “Zion” however, so the name was changed and national park status attained in 1919.

The museum also offers good displays of Cable Mountain, named for its cable works to lower cut timber (1906), the building of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway and Tunnel (1931), early settlers, the importance of water, and a nice little book and poster store with a fascinating exhibit of rock climbing equipment.

Open March-Nov; closed Dec-Feb
Hours: 9:30AM-4:30PM

Length round trip: 3.5 miles
Ascent/descent: 50 feet

Pa’rus (pronounced Pah-roos) is Paiute for bubbling, turbulent stream. One of the few bicycle-friendly and pet-friendly trails within park boundaries, Pa’rus crosses over the bubbling, tumbling north fork of the Virgin River three times on sturdy new bridges. Along with the shuttle, it was built to alleviate overcrowding along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The trail parallels the drive between the Visitor Center and Canyon Junction. Our first day at Zion, camped at South Campground, we discovered Pa’rus Trail on the edge of the campground. Puddles on the trail from rain earlier that day were reflecting Zion’s peaks.

One afternoon later on, when billowy cumulus clouds were vying for sky with the sun, I set off from our campsite to stroll Pa’rus Trail. Highly conducive to strolling, wheeled vehicles beyond bikes, and even pets, Pa’rus is well traveled on weekends. Iconic landmarks of the west and east canyon walls are clearly visible and ever changing in the playful light and progressing angles while moving along. The first stretch of fenced trail edges between South Campground and the Virgin River.

A theory claims that the Spanish traveling the Old Santa Fe Trail through these areas named what is called the Virgin River, el Rio Severo (Severe River), and the Sevier (misspelled) River, further west and much more predictable and steady, La Virgen. Map-makers could have accidentally switched the names. If Virgin seems too docile a term to describe this frequently fast and dangerous river, highly subject to flash flooding, the name does fit well in Zion, filled as it is with Biblical sounding landforms.

Every day, the Virgin carries an average of 5000 tons of rock fragments, mostly sandstone, in its current. The river is largely responsible for sculpting Zion Canyon. About halfway down the trail, a side path leads to a diversion dam that shunts part of the river flow to Springdale. Diversion dams and irrigations ditches have been utilized on the Virgin since the Mormons settled Zion Canyon.

Plant life is abundant aside the trail, though wildlife could be shying away from the canine presence allowed on Pa’rus. Junipers loaded with bluish-gray berry-like cones, prickly pear cacti bearing ripe wine-colored fruit, and other less familiar pods, berries and Fall flowers decorate meadows and riverside. A hiker approaching me told me about a buck just off trail in a thicket by the river. I got to him just in time to snap a few photos before he startled and took off like a shot. Word of caution concerning deer: though they don’t evoke the visceral fear response in humans that bears and big cats do, they inflict the majority of injuries, including fatal ones, on people who get too close or too familiar.

Length round trip: 2.0 miles
Ascent/descent: 57 feet

This walk alongside the Virgin River up to the Narrows offers spectacular geological features, lush hanging gardens, wildlife, and people-watching opportunities on busier days. In 1990, when we first took this walk, there were less people, and the path wasn’t paved or fenced.

Riverside Walk, beginning at the Temple of Sinawava, endpoint of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, is a perfect follow-up to the shuttle drive from the Visitor Center. Alighting from the shuttle, our attentions were divided between two climbers struggling along a crack above a tiny ledge in an impossibly sheer east cliffs wall, and the Pulpit of Sinawava, a stark, angular rock tower emerging from yellowing cottonwoods across the river. Sinawava is the name of a Paiute wolf god, but both pulpit and temple were actually named by a publicity agent for Union Pacific Railroad in 1913. Bob and I watched the climbers for a while, reaffirming to one another that never in a million years or any next lifetimes would either of us be so inclined to tempt disaster, adrenalin rushes notwithstanding.

The wide, paved Riverside path easily allows three walking abreast, and as we made our way along, we spotted baby strollers, grandma in a wheelchair, and all ages in between. Walking sticks were popular; these are recommended if one progresses beyond this walk into the Narrows. River temperature of 52 degrees F probably discouraged anyone venturing into the water this day.

The large sign at path’s onset cautions about dangers of flash floods, cold water, and strong currents, and reminds us that our safety is our responsibility. Other informational displays illustrate Zion Canyon formation, and how the hanging gardens further down the path developed, growing on lime-based travertine deposits. Also of interest is the Zion Narrows rock snail, found only in Zion National Park, evolving smaller shell and bigger foot than its ancestors, so as to better cling to the sheer canyon walls.

Cottonwoods dressed in bright green and yellowing foliage, interspersed with the occasional red maple, provided colorful contrast to the looming multi-colored cliffs and deep blue sky with floating wispy white clouds. Though the path is fenced, there are many accesses to the river. Partly hidden in the bushes by the river, a mule deer family grazed. I was struck by the bony appearance of the does. A ranger told me this isn’t unusual at the end of a summer of providing for a fawn. However, somewhere else I read that deer high on the Colorado Plateau are better nourished than canyon-dwelling deer.

 

The canyon narrows as we progress. Glossy desert-varnished walls topped with pines on the west contrast with the eastern walls, moister and more verdant with each step. We’ve entered the remarkable hanging gardens portion of the walk. I remembered the pool under a nascent arch from 15 years ago, the canyon walls dripping and lush with ferns, mosses and grasses. Bob took a photo of me then, sitting on a rock in this pool (below). Now, this area is fenced off, for visual enjoyment only. Indeed, all along the trail we’re reminded of Zion’s extreme fragility as an ecosystem. Their meaning clear, signs topped with a symbol of hiking boot sole slashed by diagonal red line designate riparian protection and restoration areas.

Navajo sandstone was born in Jurassic times of the ancient duned Navajo desert, sometimes compared to the Sahara, but even larger and deeper. Spreading over large portions of Utah, Arizona, Nevada, Colorado and Wyoming, sand depth was over 1000 feet, and this desert contained many oases. Today’s hanging gardens spring from remnants of those oases, within the now-solidified sandstone cliffs.

Up the walk from the gardens is the site of a 1981 rockfall. Boulders from the fall lie in the river below, and the statistics from this event (obtained from a sign) are staggering. After 1.8 inches of rain on July 16, 1981, 15,000 tons of the western cliff wall crashed into the river. Estimated winds of up to 100 mph forced mud and debris onto the trail and 20 feet up the opposite canyon wall, bending and breaking trees, bushes and anything else in its way. I find myself thinking I’m glad it’s October, but then recall a ranger at the Visitor Center saying these events can happen anytime; and it did rain pretty good here yesterday morning before our arrival…

The path ends a bit further, at a gravelly beach and brick-ledged overlook; beyond, the famous Narrows, and this is where we turn around and walk back. However, here begins the quintessential Zion experience, hiking the Narrows. Read Philly_Girl’s account of her daring March 2002 adventure, wading the Narrows with snowmelt at its highest. A ranger told me his favorite time for the Narrows is mid- to late May, when the water is usually warm enough not to require special dry-suits and gear, the summer crowds haven’t arrived yet, and the danger of flash floods is not yet at its peak (August).

Length round trip: 2.6 miles
Ascent/descent: 368 feet

It’s still dark when I get up and dressed, but faint daylight is discernable as I quietly exit our motor home half an hour later. By 6:30AM at the trailhead, it’s light enough for me to clearly see where I’m going. The day is cloudless, but it will be several hours later before sunlight reaches the floor of steep-walled Zion Canyon. My route begins on the east side of the Virgin River, but the trail soon veers away from the river, east across a meadow and past some park employee housing.

As I cross a staff-only road, a blue dumpster and piles of red gravel probably used for road paving are quickly left behind. A sign where the well-packed red dirt trail begins again warns that pets and bicycles are prohibited. Crossing over some old cement canals perhaps built for irrigation and flood control by earlier settlers, I spot yet another sign where Watchman trail is intersected by a thinner trail: deer access route – please stay on main trails to minimize resource impact. Again I’m reminded how Zion’s heavy visitation and high popularity stresses its natural inhabitants.

Once I gain some elevation, I turn and view the sunlight washing the top of West Temple. Still in shadow, the redness of the mountains is reflected in the Virgin River, which I’m now high enough to see again. Dark green vegetation with a smattering of gold from turning leaves lines the river on both sides. The trail ascends gently into a side canyon, and I begin to hear, but not see, a small creek gurgling down to the river. I have no opportunity to get out of breath, although the ascent is steady. Not because I’m in such good shape, but because photo ops keep presenting themselves, forcing me to stop frequently. As the trail switches 180 degrees around and climbing, I’m amazed to see a sign warning people not to throw rocks down because there could be hikers below. Jeez, could people really be that dumb? Sadly I answer myself, yes.

There’s enough moisture in the porous sandstone walls that line one side of the trail for plants to take root, not in any obvious cracks, but straight out of the rock. In one area, a man-made brick retaining wall matches the white and dark pink sandstone perfectly. As I continue climbing, I try to recall the geological layers I’m passing through. Some are rigid and blocklike, others softer and yielding. I come across huge fallen boulders on either side of and partially obstructing the trail; I’d want to be far away from such a rockfall when it happens. I’m surprised to find some blooming wildflowers, mostly red ones, this late in the season. Later I learn that some, such as Indian paintbrush, bloom twice a year.

 

Sooner than expected, I’ve reached the point where the trail splits, looping around the top of the bluff but still far below Watchman Peak. Even though I’m less than 400 feet above the canyon floor, the vistas are impressive. I take my time, savoring the views upcanyon and down, leisurely wandering around the loop. Sun is lighting the pointy tan tip of the Watchman. Beneath it, shaded crags of gray, black and pink angulate sharply down to where the rocky part of the mountain emerges from a softer-looking bed of light green, dotted with dark greens of piñon and juniper.

Below, on the canyon floor, winds the Virgin River, in some stretches lined by trees, in others flowing next to open meadow. Paths, reddish roads, and tiny structures are visible far below, and further down-canyon, the cluster of buildings signifying the town of Springdale. The entire canyon floor is still shrouded in shade. Straight across the canyon though, the top half of massive West Temple mesa glows brilliant orange in sunlight, and the clear shadow of a mountain, which I believe to be Bridge Mountain, appears on its face. Minutes later the angle changes and the pointy shadow is gone. West Temple wears a broad hat of maroon, with dark green tree and bush hatband. Its distinctive top has been visible from below, but is seen more clearly from my present vantage point.

 

So far, I’ve met no one on the trail. Regretfully I decide to begin down, almost certain I’ll meet hikers on the way up. As I descend, I’m accompanied by the sound of gurgling brook and vision of sunlight spreading increasingly down the opposite canyon walls. Apparently Halloween Monday turns out not to be a popular hiking day, and I’ve had the trail to myself all the way back to its origin across from the Visitor Center!

This hike is classified in the Zion Map and Guide as “moderate”, but I would call it easy. The ascent/descent, although steady, is quite gradual. There are some minor drop-offs, but nothing very abrupt or steep. On the other hand, there were still moist sections three days following rain; in rain or soon afterwards the trail could be muddy or slippery. With the exception of this past year, though, Zion’s annual rainfall is scant, averaging less than 15 inches precipitation per year. Time for the hike is listed as 2 hours; with all my stops and extra time spent on the bluff, that’s exactly what it took me.

Here are a few more highlights that should not be missed!

Court of the Patriarchs, three pyramid-shaped peaks standing side by side, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, are easily viewed from Court of the Patriarchs Viewpoint, up a short paved path along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Hop off the shuttle to take it in before catching the next shuttle up or down-canyon.

The full Emerald Pools Loop Trail to all three Emerald pools may be a thing of the past with continuous trail closures, repairs, and more closures. Following the extremely rainy season of winter 2004-05, rockslides and mudslides covered portions of these trails to such an extent that the park service is considering allowing them to return to their natural (trail-less) state. While we were at Zion in October 2005, Lower Emerald Pool could still be accessed from Zion Lodge, while Middle and Upper Emerald Pools were attainable from Kayenta Trail, across the river from the Grotto.

The Zion-Mt Carmel Tunnel is an engineering marvel, especially considering it was planned and built in the 1920’s and completed in 1930. Just over one mile in length, it climbs over 2000 feet from the canyon floor to a plateau on its east side. Implemented by the Bureau of Public Roads and financed by the Park Service, the tunnel (and road) aimed to connect Zion with nearby national parks and attractions such as Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. As the tunnel is 24 feet wide and arched on top, vehicles over 13 feet tall or longer than 40 feet are prohibited from passing through it. RVs sized between 11’4” and 13’1” tall and/or wider than 7’10” require a tunnel escort for a $15 fee. Our motor home met these criteria, so Bob got the fun of driving through the tunnel in it while I drove the car ahead. Amazingly, the tunnel contains arched windows or “galleries” for viewing (and light and ventilation) along its length.

While driving up the switchbacks towards the tunnel from Zion Canyon, one cannot help but notice theGreat Arch of Zion, a huge blind arch (doesn’t go all the way through) spectacularly perched against the mountainside. Eventually, given enough time, erosion and weathering will eliminate the inside of the arch and it will stand apart and alone.

Highly eye-catching Checkerboard Mesa, east of the tunnel, about a mile west of the east entrance, is created by a combination of what geologists call crossbedding and jointing. These result from erosion and pressure, and weathering (rain-freeze-thaw cycles) further serves to accentuate the horizontal and vertical grooves. Another visual double-take in this park of superlatives.

In case you need a break from all the breath-taking beauty, or the weather’s too hot midday in summer, pay a visit to Springdale’s Giant Screen Theatre. Zion Canyon: Treasure of the Gods plays on the odd hours, along with other features, and Hollywood movies on the big screen after 7PM. Written and directed by Kieth Merrill, the 40 minute documentary (Treasure) portrays Zion Canyon’s history, with some embellishment and cliffhangers, including a flash flood and a climber dangling from ropes after a dizzying fall. Since this is an IMAX-type film, hang on to your seat. Out in the lobby, there are displays related to the feature film, and lots of historical photos.

Kolob Canyonsand Kolob Terrace are lesser known sections of Zion National Park that we didn’t visit this time. Exit 40 off the I-15 will take you to the small visitor center and Kolob “finger” canyons. Much less visited than Zion Canyon, these canyons are reportedly rugged, narrow, colorful and spectacular. I want to go visit them next time we’re in the area. Kolob Terrace can be accessed from the town of Virgin, about 15 miles south of the park. Follow the signs to Kolob Reservoir. Numerous viewing, camping and hiking opportunities can be found in both Kolob Canyons and on the Kolob Terrace, without Zion Canyon’s usual tourist crowds.