A Welcome Respite in San Miguel

We had originally planned on staying at a different bed and breakfast that was closely located to the friend we were visiting. However, after the original B&B lost our reservation, our friend decided to take a look at this place on the edge of the historic center. The lost reservation turned out to be serendipitous.

Upon arrival at the unassuming entrance from the street, you will see a lovely brick walkway leading up to the front of the house. On either side of the walkway, there are strips of lush grass with local sculptures. This all serves as a welcome introduction to the open design of the house and the bright Mexican color scheme.

There are four rooms in the Azucena, each with appointed in very different styles. Two of the rooms share a bathroom, so if having a private bathroom is important to you, make sure to reserve either Kukulkan or Arcangeles. Another side note: if you have trouble getting hot water in the shower, as we did on the first day, let the hot water run in the sink for 5 minutes first. This solution was suggested by the staff and seemed to solve the problem.

We found the nights to be very quiet and conducive to a night of good sleep. It was a wonderful feeling to be reminded in the morning of just how far from a U.S. city we were by the sounds of roosters crowing. Breakfast was served between 8 and 10 in the morning. Three square tables were pushed together to allow for all the guests to eat together. This was a nice touch as it provided an opportunity to meet the other guests. Breakfast included coffee, tea, fresh-squeezed juice, fresh-cut fruit, yogurt and granola, toast, jam, and an entrée. The entrées usually consisted of some concoction of beans and cheese, all of which were delicious. Two young women did all of the cooking and serving. They provided all of the guests with wonderful service and useful information about the area.

This B&B does not filter the water that comes out of the water taps. They do, however, provide a pitcher of filtered water in each of the guest rooms. They also have a water cooler with filtered water in the kitchen. This can be used to refill the pitchers or water bottles.

For a pleasant stay in San Miguel, check out the Azucena for a moderately priced stay (by US standards) with many comforts.

On our first night in town, our host made reservations at Finnegan’s Pub for dinner and music. She told us that we needed to experience a gypsy jazz band that performs at Finnegan’s every Thursday through Saturday.

The reservation was a good idea because when they sat us, it was at the last table not filled yet. The restaurant does not look anything like an Irish Pub. Instead, it is decorated in a much more Mexican style with pink stucco walls. The restaurant space is quite large with a stage set up on one side. The tables are arranged to allow a small dancing area in front of the stage. We arrived after the band had begun their first set, so we were able to enjoy the music while ordering and eating.

The food at Finnegan’s is nothing to write home about. It’s Americanized Mexican food, catering mostly to the expatriate community. But we didn’t go for the food; we went for Gil y Cartas, the gypsy jazz band. For the first set, the band was comprised of a guitarist, a bassist, and a violinist. The music spanned from Spanish classical to the Beatles, all with a gypsy jazz twist. For the first set, they invited two guests onstage to perform with them: a viola player and a soprano saxophonist. This appeared to be a common occurrence at their performances.

A regular guest guitarist, Lobo, sat in with the band for the second set. In addition to being able to just enjoy the music on its own merits, the band looked like they were just having a ball up on stage, heightening the enjoyment for the entire crowd. The dance floor, which had been empty during the first set, began to fill up.

Sitting back, enjoying a ridiculously strong margarita, listening to the band, and watching the dancers was a terrific way to spend our first night in San Miguel. If you are in town on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday night, you must not miss this band.

We decided to take a walk to La Galeria Aurora on a warm Sunday. The galleries are hidden a distance from the historic center and down a long gravel driveway from the road. The building used to be a cotton mill in its former life.

La Galeria Aurora holds studios, galleries, and shops within its walls. Visiting on a Sunday meant that not all of the studios were open and reduced hours for those that were. We browsed through an antiques shop, a jewelry shop with beautifully crafted pieces, and some galleries. The galleries showcased mainly local contemporary artists. Their pieces included sculpture, painting, drawing, and photography. Some of the studios had signs offering instructional classes.

Most of the studios are housed within the main building, but a few are only accessible by venturing outside through the back of the building. A courtyard in the back houses an outdoor café that was closed while we were there but apparently is open during events.

Remnants of the buildings cotton mill days are still apparent. Some of the old machines are still standing (see picture). One hallway is lined with photographs from the days when the mill was still functioning.

If interested in viewing local art while in San Miguel, La Galeria Aurora is not to be missed. I’d recommend visiting on any day other than Sunday.

I was told that if you are in San Miguel de Allende on a Tuesday, you shouldn’t miss the massive Tuesday market. This is an enormous outdoor flea market that the locals shop at. It is not intended for the tourist, and you will be hard pressed to find a vendor that speaks English.

Under the multiple makeshift tents, you will find all kinds of wares, including vegetables, fruits, candy, clothing – many stalls of blue jeans, shoes, herbal remedies, cell phone accessories, perfumes, and much more. Around some of the clothing stalls, the Mexican shoppers will gather in crowds weeding through piles of wares.

If you are interested in blender parts, you will have hit the mother load at this market; multiple stalls sell all types and makes of blender parts. If you are in the market for a pirated CD or DVD, look no further. There are vendors selling puppies and birds.

You can find all kinds of food vendors selling tacos and other local delicacies. There was one particular stall selling deep-fried foods and handing out samples. Having just tried the best-tasting potato chips I have ever eaten, we quickly purchased a bag. They squeezed a bit of limon juice on them for us, making them even more delicious.

As the market is on the top of a hill above the center of town, it is not in quick walking distance from where we were staying. This afforded us the opportunity to take the local bus back down into the center. You will really see the locals when hopping on one of the public buses.

For a slice of true San Miguel life, the Tuesday market is not a bad place to start. Plus, you may end up with some wonderful goods. I ended up with some decadent honey, a local specialty.