I got dreadfully lost when I went to Yanaka - the only area of Tokyo that is made up of old buildings from before WWII and even the earthquake of the 1920s. Wandering in circles isn’t so bad because there’s always something interesting to see, but I still blame the guide-book maps. They usually list only one major street for a five-block radius, making it impossible to gauge which direction is which. URG! Anyway, after asking a few people and finding a few street-corner maps, I found the big, bronze Buddha.
Buddha watches over the garden of the Tenno-ji temple, which is found in the very large Yanaka cemetery. People were wandering along its main roads, and some were tending the grey graves. I got caught up with taking pictures of the austere wooden markers (prayer sticks?), standing like worn-out sentinels throughout the whole cemetery. As I moved about carefully, fearing to tread disrespectfully, I caught some sweet wafts of incense.
To get to the market area, I decided to try following these two old women who seemed to being walking purposefully. They led me down a bumpy walk of stones, with arthritic black tree boughs arched over it. Very storybook-like. Brilliant green moss ran beside the path, on top of the ancient plot markers.
The market was a mismatch of colour and products. Veggies, sandals, teapots, pastries, sweaters, combs. I’m glad I got there just as evening was landing because everything popped out more as the lights turned on. I followed one of the twisty streets that branched off of the main one, and found alleyways stuffed with faded houses, withering flower boxes, and shiny rows of bicycles. On the way back to the subway, I bought large, roasted rice crackers that were really crunchy and salty. A great reward for all of the walking.
If you like to explore and really get a sense of how locals live, then you should go to Yanaka. But be tenacious - it doesn't appear on many guidebook maps. Also go if you like to see the oldest parts of a city.
by gwenamon on November 30, 2005
Yanaka (General)
Historic Neighbourhood of Tokyo Tokyo, Japan