Lyon - France's "Second City"

The city itself has many interesting sights, and it is just a couple of hours by train to Arles, Avignon, Orange and even Geneva. We found a day trip to each of these places, using our hotel in Lyon as a base, made for a great vacation.

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Best Way To Get Around:

If you are arriving or leaving by train, be sure to note which station -- Lyon has three, including the airport out of town. If you arrive at the airport, you will have to take a shuttle bus into Lyon. The other two are centrally located. Also, be sure to read all the fine-print notes on the train timetable if you are doing day-trips. We almost got stranded in Arles because we didn't note that the train went from Lyon, but not back, on the day we traveled. (We ended up taking a roundabout route, which delivered us to the airport, from which we took the shuttle into downtown Lyon.)

The hotel is a short walk from the metro station. It is not far from Part Dieu train station, but not walking distance. I believe the hotel has a free shuttle service from the train station, but we preferred not to wait and took the metro. Being close to the metro gives you access to all of Lyon. If you are looking for a predictable, clean, hotel with a comfortable bed, this is a good choice. In our experience, the front desk staff always included someone who speaks English.

On this visit, my husband and I started our prix fixe dinner with what we laughingly now refer to as fish sorbet -- frozen fish quenelles. The fish flavor was not overwhelming, and it was a light, refreshing start to our dinner. Next we had foie gras, perfectly done so it was crisp outside and meltingly rich inside. A small portion of lobster followed. Then, as the main course, squab, again perfectly cooked. We remembered out first meal there, where the lamb was overdone to our tastes and we cautioned the server that we wanted it cooked in the French manner -- medium rare -- and NOT the English manner. It apparently did the trick. Selections from the cheese cart followed. Then we were served a complementary "pre-dessert" of a small portion of pear mousse. As with the first dinner, my husband ordered crème brulée (3 dishes again) -- he had been talking about it ever since our first visit. I had a light dessert of "red fruits" (fresh berries and currants) with fromage blanc sorbet. Coffee, cookies and chocolates ended the splendid meal. The restaurant is easily accessible by subway and a short walk.

Visit 3 On a visit a year later, May 2001, we found the food and service to be just as delightful. The restaurant has been "dressed down" a bit, and is no longer as dressy and formal as it was. This is not a negative thing. Customers no longer wear ties; in fact several men and women were in cotton pants and shirts or sweaters. I felt overdressed in my evening pants and pearls. The elegant service table, with its towering flower arrangement, which had been in the center of the dining room, is no more. Extra tables have been put in place instead. The waiters wear white shirts and blackpants instead of tuxedo-type jackets. The rest is the same, and still excellent.

You can also visit an ancient Roman amphitheater on Croix Rousse hill, across the Saone river.

Personally, I like the amphitheater and arena in Arles better because I think they give a better flavor of Roman civilization and because these ancient ruins seem to dominate the small town of Arles. However, the ruins in Lyon are certainly spectacular.

Lyon also has a Gallo-Roman Museum near the theater, which is recommended by the Michelin green guide, but I have not been in it. Give it a try if you are an ancient history buff.