We heard the pounding of the drums over the buzz of the outboard motor as the tiny zodiac came to deposit us on the beach at Kiriwina Island. Clearly, something was afoot.

We knew from our lecture onboard the Oceanic Princess that the Trobriand Islands possessed the fabled reputation as the "Islands of Love," but what was taking place on the pearl-white sands as we approached struck us as something much more forthright!

Two lines of lean, well-oiled men, obviously chosen for their physical prowess, greeted us with the most overt gyrations. Even some of well-travelled and worldly ladies were clearly blushing at this unmistakably masculine display. The drumbeats became even more excited and were now interspersed with a shrill umpire’s whistle. Frenzied motions of the men’s hips were leaving absolutely nothing to the imagination. And then… stop.

A man in a comically chosen shirt-and-tie combo approached clutching a bull-horn and quickly shook the hand of Jamie, our gobsmacked expedition leader, and welcomed us heartily into his community.

On cue, a small corridor appeared in the crowd, and from it emerged half a dozen golden-skinned, nubile young maidens clutching vivid and intricate flower constructions which were delicately placed over, or onto, our wide-brimmed hats. As in ancient Trobriand tradition, we were being welcomed by the most attractive, eligible members of this little community.

"The Trobrianders have made seduction an art form," Nancy, our resident anthropologist, reminds us, "it’s all a part of the matrilineal (female-based) society of this region."

"This gorgeous shell jewellery," announces Nancy whilst selecting a girl who is probably the equivalent of a princess, "is a very clear sign of her status in the community."

"This piece of kula is probably over one hundred years old and is full of legend and magic," Nancy announces, her eyes widening behind dark glasses as we peer in wonder at the polished baubles.

For my part, I am completely entranced at the intricate decorations applied to our hostess. Her flawless skin is dusted with stigma from lurid yellow flowers, while around her neck are garlands of tiny, painstakingly woven flowers. Dark armbands with shell adornments match the cluster of hand-fashioned red shells cascading from her petite earlobes, while a similar strand encircles her subtly painted forehead, which in turn is topped with a tiara of bird feathers. Each girl is similarly bedecked, but infinitesimal differences declare her family’s ultimate status with in the community.

The dainty troupe turn to escort us up the short hill to a parade ground where hundreds more spectators await, their coquettish banana-fibre miniskirts waving seductively in unison. The sun and spectacle were stating to make my head spin!

From slow, sensual, Polynesian-style hula dancing to the legendary and hilariously ritualised Trobriand cricket, the vibrant and unashamedly sensual culture of the Trobriand Islands were there on show.

It started as a low rumble, a distant reverberation that could have been a thunderstorm somewhere over the horizon. But it rises as an increasingly ominous crescendo to the point where I am looking up through the palm trees frantically searching the skies for the 747s I am sure are about to pass overhead at about 100 feet.

Rabaul is intermittently the jewel of the New England and New Ireland district: perfect Simpson Harbour and glorious Blanche Bay framed by a magnificent but volatile mountainscape are but a scant indicator to its tumultuous past.

Just the day before, with a technicolour dawn breaking behind us, Captain Scotty guided Oceanic Princess to our anchorage in the port of Rabaul. As we cruised serenely up the bay, pastel hued clouds sat delicately atop the high, distant ridgelines beyond Mount Tuvurvur that loomed on our starboard bow.

As we stared, trancelike, across the mirror still waters, our gaze was quickly diverted to an enormous, dense grey plume of smoke and ash that rose quickly into the sky, staining and smearing our previously perfect watercolour landscape.

"ba-ROOOMM!", the thunderclap came several seconds after the appearance of the cloud and quickly brought the rest of the breakfasting passengers out on deck amid gasps and swoons.

"Mount Tuvurvur," explains Dr Nancy Sullivan our accompanying cultural interpreter, "has been acting up like that for the last twelve years – ever since the big one in ’94."

The "big one" to which Nancy refers was the catastrophic eruption that again laid waste to the town of Rabaul. Again? Yes, Rabaul has been comprehensively flattened by a series of natural and manmade events in the last sixty-something years and, although some semblance of life has returned to the remaining streets, no large scale rebuilding is likely to take place again.

But today I’m disembarking Oceanic Princess after ten days amongst the romantic and superbly isolated islands within and around PNG’s Solomon Sea. It’s been a breathtaking, almost intoxicating exploration of remote tropical atolls and secluded islets, inspirational encounters with reclusive villagers and wonderful exposure to secret rites and rituals. I’ll always remember our celebrated landing on the island of Kiriwina amongst the Trobriands, where we weren’t sure for a moment whether we were being feted or prepared for a feast.

This is the new adventure, the 21st Century holiday, where travellers transcend the stereotypical, brochure-inspired, lazy week beside a pool and move into a whole other world. A place where experience rises above star-ratings and inspiration replaces perspiration.

The unexpected bird-catchers of Egum Atoll, the mesmerising Yam Harvest dancers of Kiriwina and the mysterious spirit geyser of Seuseulina on Fergusson Island blur into head-spinning medley when I try to recount them all at once. But these high points are just a few of the richly rewarding events that occurred en-route from Alotau to Rabaul.

Most of the passengers have elected to stay on for the second leg of Coral Princess Cruises’ "The Place Time Forgot" expedition voyage and I’m honestly disappointed to be missing the legendary Sepik River, the tropical fjords of Tufi and the old colonial glamour of Medang that they are clearly looking forward to over the next ten nights.

Often the subject of unflattering publicity with disproportionate attention paid to the unease in Port Moresby, the rest of PNG, particularly the outlying islands are a bewildering patchwork of languages, customs and diverse ethnic groups. My own brief, but thoroughly enriching experience was one of genuine wonder. Even when I pondered the glossy brochure, tracing the route of voyage, I was in no way prepared for the deluge of experiences in store. When I remarked to Coral Princess Cruises’ Managing Director, Tony Briggs, that the prospectus completely undersold the product, he replied candidly, "I know, I know!"

The array of so-called expedition products currently on offer to South Pacific and Australasian destinations like the Kimberley, Vanuatu, the Solomons, New Zealand and New Caledonia create a perplexing mix that makes choosing nigh impossible. Yet the innate mystery and tantalizingly unexpected nature of these voyages adds great attraction to each itinerary. Expedition Cruising, in its truest form, offers only an outline of the intended trip. The reality is a titillating anticipation that approximates the sensations once only experienced by the pioneering seafarers who trail-blazed through these unknown lands many hundreds of years ago.

As Mount Tuvurvur’s latest little eruption subsides and another downpour of fine, gritty ash ensues, I load my bags into the van for the one-way trip to the airport and vow to return and complete my odyssey in the land I’ll never forget.

Vessel: Oceanic Princess
Cruise Line: Coral Princess Cruises
Star Rating: not rated
Tonnage: 1838 GRT
Max Passenger Capacity: 76
Entered Service: 2005

Itineraries range from 10 to 13 nights and are priced from A$6950 twin-share.

Built by NQEA in Cairns, Oceanic Princess is equipped with zodiacs, a glass-bottomed boat and a specially designed, high-powered aluminium excursion vessel with awning and toilet.

• 38 staterooms, each with private facilities, sofa, desk, wardrobe, luggage space and individual air conditioning controls. Serviced daily.
• Australian registered with full SOLAS (international) compliance.
• Large sundeck and Spa Pool
• Internet booth and Comprehensive reference library
• Phone and fax facilities
• Lecture lounge with large plasma screen
• Limited laundry facilities
• Two fully stocked cocktail bars
• Boutique and dive shop
• Air-conditioned public areas

Bookings:

• Coral Princess Cruises 1800 079 545, or
• Adventure Associates 1800 222 141

Further information:

• PNG Tourism: www.pngtourism.org.pg
• Dr Nancy Sullivan, Anthropologist: www.nancysullivan.org