Picture Perfect Santorini

Katikies Hotel - Oia, Santorini, Greece 011-30-22860-71401, http://www.katikies.com

It is pronounced Kat-e-key-es and not to be confused with Katikies Suites or Villa Katikies, which are both also located in Oia. It is a proud member of the "Small Luxury Hotels of the World" and "Club of Clubs", and holding such honors as Conde Naste Traveler's Gold List for 2004 and 2005 and "The Best Hotels in the World" list for 2005. Katikies has only 25 rooms/suites and is located in a cliff overlooking the Caldera in the western-most part of Santorini. Built in 1986 but renovated in 2004, this hotel has come a long way from when it first opened, both in style and price. After many changes with our plans from Crete to Santorini, we were greeted at the port in Santorini by the hotel's driver, who had been waiting hours for us. (Our ferry was late.) He was a very warm and friendly man who served us bottles of Perrier and perfumed, moist towlets upon arrival. We were picked up in a black luxury van with beige leather interior and lots of A/C. The drive from the port to the hotel was about 35 minutes. He acted as our tour guide, pointing out places to visit, showing us where to get the best views and photos, and telling us how long it would take to get from A to B. He even gave a little island history/lore. It was a great beginning to our stay and really set the tone for this hotel.

When we initially arrived at the hotel, we looked at each other and said, "Is this it?" Located at the beginning of a broken-up road, all you see when you drive up is a small hotel sign and a few white domes. That is, of course, until you get out of the car and start to descend the stairs towards the lobby. Oh, my God!!!! The views that this hotel boasts are incredible. My husband and I argued if this or Bora Bora was more beautiful, and to be honest, it's really a tough call. The Caldera is this wide-open body of water that is crystal blue and surrounded by mountains with a volcano in the middle of it. This hotel is all stairs due to the fact that it is basically built into a cliff 100m above the water.

Okay, so we arrive, walk down about 10 steps, are taken away with the sights, and walk into the very quaint lobby decorated almost like a New England living room with dark woods, toile fabrics, and some beautiful art pieces. The lobby was about the size of a standard hotel room, with a small front desk, one-person bathroom, a small desk for guests, and two staff members dressed in all white. All staff members here are dressed in all white, all the time. They were very friendly and courteous. They politely sat us down, served us two glasses of champagne, and handed us several pieces of paper that we needed to fill out before checking in. Although done in a very cordial manner, my thoughts were these: "Why do I have to fill out so much paperwork? Don't they have computers to do this? What did I fill out online?" Moving on, a large list of international papers was available for a daily charge, i.e. USA Today was 2 Euro per day. It was about noon when we arrived and finished the paperwork. We were told that our room was not ready.

We left to get lunch in Oia and were told to be back at 2pm. Upon our return, one of the front-desk staff members walked us around the hotel, showed us where everything was located, and explained how their restaurants worked, etc. We were given a cell phone to use if we ever needed to contact the front desk for anything. The phone came in handy when we needed a ride or had a question while we were out exploring the island. Staff members whispered around the pool and lounge chairs and called them "relaxing areas," making sure to tell us that there was no music during the day to ensure a relaxing atmosphere. Off the pool there is a library (packed with books) with a bathroom and a computer for Internet access. The Internet was 6 Euro for 30 minutes. There is no gym, no salon, and nothing you'd find in a large resort here. Keep in mind that this is a boutique hotel. There is a "spa" that we decided to pass on simply because there was too much to do, and we felt it was way overpriced at 100 Euro for a regular 50-minute massage.

Breakfast was served daily from 8 to 11am and included most basic breakfast items and champagne (always). There were certain items that were an extra charge, any type of breakfast meat and specialty omelets for example. You chose what you'd like and time of delivery the night before and they were there on time and very courteous. You were allowed to call the morning of but had to wait 30 minutes for delivery. Either way it was a win-win, as the food was excellent. Most mornings we had a bread basket, eggs (their scrambled eggs are like butter), a Greek omelet, Greek pie (basically a cheese pie that varied), fresh-squeezed juice, and Nescafe (their version of American coffee). Breakfast was really a treat, not because it was "free," but because it was well prepared, prompt, and served on this private terrace with such unreal views. Our last day, however, we left at 6am. From 5 to 8am, the hotel only serves a bread basket and coffee. Yes, you pay the same rate the night before you leave even if you don't eat the full breakfast. The "bread basket" that morning included leftover sourdough bread from the restaurant the night before that was cut into pieces and placed in a basket. MAJOR disappointment.

At night the hotel maintained the peaceful atmosphere that it boasts all day long. Everything is candlelit, and the staff is every bit as attentive as they are during the day. There are three dinner-dining options; the White Cave which is an exclusive three-table restaurant offering a prix-fixe meal (five courses), the a la carte (four-table) restaurant called simply The Katikies Dinner Restaurant, or the pool bar that seats 16 in a picnic-table setup. There is no debating that the food here, in every aspect, was perfect, so much so that I have written a separate journal to discuss it. The hotel offered a nightly wine tasting, by appointment only, for 50 Euro per person. Nine Greek wines are served, and it was set up on a terrace area at sunset.

There were two pools and a Jacuzzi, separated by three levels at Katikies. The main lounge area, located closest to the reception desk (yet still 20 steps down), had seven wide lounge chairs that accommodated two people. These lounges had large white vinyl cushions with small tables and umbrellas. It was very trendy and very comfortable (more so than our bed), with incredible views. To us, this was the best place to be every day (great place for afternoon naps). About 10 steps down from here was the small "cooling off pool." This pool was built for people who either were staying farther up the cliff or relaxing in the lounge area and did not want to walk to the bottom of the property to use the main pool. The main pool is the next level down from that lounge area (about 20 steps) and is an infiniti pool as well, surrounded by six individual lounge chairs. These chairs were always taken first, so if you prefer to sit poolside, you need to be down at the pool very early.

We were there during September (which is off-season), and the chairs were taken by 8:30 or 9 am. The lower level, near the Jacuzzi, is the only area with two shaded seats. More often than not, this area was empty. Each level was perfect for getting some sun, reading a book, or watching the sun set over the mountains. What was amazing about these pools is that they were true infiniti pools. By that I mean that they were built in a cliff and the water actually looked like it was overflowing into the caldera, not some beach 4 feet below. It was a really breathtaking sight. The pool staff (all male) was very accommodating, getting drinks, adjusting umbrellas (unsolicited), towels, etc. Food was not served poolside or at any time other then the designated times for a specific meal. Lunch was served from 1 to 4pm, either at the poolside restaurant Kirini or by room service. However, we never stuck around for lunch, considering lunch in Oia was half the price and gave us the chance to explore a little.

See Part 2.

Katikies Hotel - Oia, Santorini, Cyclades Islands, Greece. 011-30-22860-71401 http://www.katikies.com/

Part 2 - All of the rooms here are almost like little suites. You walk through a white, wood double-door to a small (or in some cases large) terrace area - all of which overlook the Caldera and most of the pool as well. The terrace had a bistro table, umbrella and two chairs and was where your daily breakfast (included in the price of the room) was served. To get into your room there is another white wood double-door (this one locks). We were told we had the most traditional room available (#20)and therefore was the most requested room in the facility. I have to be honest, I don't know why. The room had bleached hard wood floors, another bistro table and chairs (in case of rain), a small dresser with drawers, 13" TV and a wardrobe. The staff member giving the tour pointed out that one bottle of wine and 2 pieces of fruit were compliments of the hotel (gee, thanks). Don't get me wrong; the wine was much appreciated, but for what this place costs a night, there should have been an entire fruit basket, not 2 apples waiting for us. The dresser (used as an extension of the mini-bar) had 10 or so full bottles of liquor on it and a tray of assorted crystal glasses. This confused me because it took away from your counter space which was already limited. The wardrobe closet was small and it had a safe on the bottom. The safe and the front door both were locked with old fashion long metal keys. The front door key was attached to a string of Greek beads (needless to say it was hard to always find a place to put them when we went out). There was a CD player, a telephone that was not working for half of our stay, mini-bar, bathrobes and slippers.

The entire room was very cave like, from the all stone walls and ceiling, the rounded shaped, the echo factor and the bed. The (stone-hard) queen bed was located on top of a rounded stone ledge, built out of the wall/floor. The two ways you could get on this bed was by being very tall and giving yourself a little push up or by walking almost into the bathroom and climbing over the rounded step/area. It is so hard to explain but to be honest, it wasn't the most ideal construction. Sleeping on this bed you sort of felt like a kid at camp; sleeping shoulder to shoulder, on a very firm mattress, elevated off the floor. I will admit the first night it was sort of cool and different but it got old fast, especially when you needed to get up in the middle of the night for the bathroom.

The bathroom was in the back corner of the room, again keeping with the cave-like theme. The shower was down two steps, off to the right and actually much larger than I expected. The toilet and sink, however, were on top of one another, to the point where I could be sitting on the toilet and washing my hands simultaneously. Get the picture? They also put a small shelf above the toilet and kept toiletries there. I thought this was silly because one slip of the hand and directly below was the toilet water- splash! Anyway- they had really nice Bvlgari toiletries including shampoo, conditioner, bath gel and lotion along with cotton swabs and q-tips. Toiletries were in large demand however and you had to request replacements, they were not automatically replenished. Overall, the bathroom was very clean but older looking, dark and tight - not a fan.

We had read a lot of complaints about the a/c, but we experienced no problems with ours; in fact, some nights we'd come back from dinner and our room would be too cold. The windows in the bedroom had shutters and blue & white checked curtains on them. The window basically provided all of the light in the room as the light fixtures were small and sparse throughout the room. On two occasions we found ants roaming our room. The first incident was in our bed UNDER the pillows, in the MORNING after waking up, so as you can imagine I was annoyed and skived to say the least. I called the front desk and they said they would take care of it but after 30 minutes I figured it was time to take matters into my own hands. I actually striped the bed myself and put everything, including the mattress pad, on our terrace. They came that day and sprayed. Unfortunately the odor was on our bed linens all night and the ants were back the next day on the floor. I was shocked that the hotel did nothing to placate us after this incident and to be honest were only somewhat apologetic. For a hotel that is striving for perfection 2 dozen ants is 24 too many and totally unacceptable!!

Overall, I had a love/hate experience with this hotel. The location is perfect, the setting surreal. The views are not to be believed. The common areas are clean, I mean pristine. Everything is painted white without a scuff mark or any sign of use. The pool staff, driver and wait staff were all excellent - attentive without being obtrusive. So much so that they are as good as, if not better than the staff at a Four Seasons or a Peninsula. The food was incredible and that is an understatement!(see dining journal; whitecave) However: The room although very charming was not my cup of tea. I guess I prefer the luxury kind; plush surroundings, king size bed, large marble bathroom, etc. The front desk staff although very nice and trying very hard just missed the boat on too many items.

1. The ant issue, they did nothing to make amends.

2. They never told us not to shut off the cell phone because we would need a code to turn it back on.

3. They sent us on a volcano excursion and made us walk thru Oia (25 min) to get to the dock when there was another dock virtually below the hotel.

4. When we checked out we were basically reprimanded because they do not own a credit card machine (they call in for authorization) and were annoyed that we didn't settle our bill the night before. Who does that? And if that is what you needed me to do, why didn't you say something? I mean when all was said and done, we spent nearly $2,000 USD for 4 nights here and I have to leave all worked up because I have to defend myself at 5:30 in the morning?

Housekeeping was good except for one major problem; remember the ants? The stairs here seem endless. For us to get from our room (right above the main pool) to the street we had to climb about 75 steps. Granted the stairs are wide and we were able to stop and rest but I just didn't understand how the staff climbed up and down them all day with food, luggage, etc. There are no railings, no elevators and the stairs did get slippery when wet. Needless to say if you are elderly or a person with disabilities- this hotel is not for you. Not a place for children as they do not allow anyone under 13 to stay here. Cancellation policy is 21 days prior. Make sure when booking the reservation you are clear on which property you are interested in as there are three in Oia and are all called Katikies, The KATIKIES HOTEL is the first and best one. If you are looking for something on a tighter budget, there are plenty of hotels in Oia (which is much better than Fira) with the same view, just less “luxury”.

Recommended, but not the traditional room (room #20).

Kameni Islands Volcano/Hot Springs/Thirssa Day Trip

This excursion was recommended to us by the concierge at the Katikies hotel. The name of the tour company was not provided (doubt it is named). We were told to walk thru Oia and down to the dock (231 stairs) and we would see the one charter boat that offered day trips. For 20 Euro per person we were given a 5 ½ hour tour on a very pretty and spacious boat. The tour sails to the volcano, the hot springs and to the island of Thirssa. The trip was full of Americans and Brits which gave us the opportunity to meet other people. The tour guide was a woman and she spoke 3 languages (Greek, English, and German) which was great because everyone knew what was going on at all times.

Volcano:
We sailed to the volcano first. Upon arriving in Erinia Bay and viewing all of the black lava rocks and crystal blue water, we knew this would be an enjoyable day. The tour guide got off the boat and walked us up and around while telling us history and legends. The entrance fee for the volcano was 2 Euro per person. The hike is moderate (slow incline) and the sun is strong. There are no facilities here so you either have to take care of business before you leave Oia or use the boat. I would recommend a hat and definitely a good pair of sneakers or hiking boots. We saw quite a few people with flip flops and bikinis who were struggling with the terrain and sun. You are hiking a natural wonder filled with rocks, gravel, hills - come prepared. The closer you get to the peak, the more the smell of sulfur intensives. This is coming from various points where smoke and gas rise from the volcano.

Volcano History:
The initial eruption in 1650 B.C was the largest in the last 10,000 years on record we were told. Magma was erupted, which formed a cloud of volcanic ash and rock. The removal of the magma from underneath the volcano caused it to collapse which produced a large crater - the caldera. Since the last eruption in 1950, this volcano has been dormant although it is considered an active volcano. The 1950 eruption took place on January 10th and last thru February 2nd of that year.

Hot Springs:
We then sailed around Nea Kameni and thru the bay of Aghios Nikolaos for the hot springs which was a pretty and quick ride. We dropped anchor just outside of the springs and were allowed to dive off the side of the boat and swim for a ½ hour. The locals will tell you that the waters are clear green..not exactly. Be forewarned the hot springs are full of sulfur and therefore brown/rusty in color. Clothes can be ruined. The swim to the springs is an easy one and obviously the closer you get the warmer the water is (and the more brown it becomes). We swam about half way and then decided there was no point swimming around in what appeared to be unclean water. A lot of garbage has been littered into the springs and it has begun accumulating in the cove. This is really strange because this is the only place that I saw garbage in the water at all in Santorini.

Thirssa (Therasia):
Next stop was the island of Thirssa. We were given 2 hours here and were told where the best place to eat was and what we could find if we chose to hike the cliff to the town at the top. Thirssa has a population of 250 people - that's it. So as you can imagine we saved the 300+ steps for the rest of the group to explore. The ocean water surrounding this island was beautiful and the fish were in large supply. Note of warning; although a great place for snorkeling use extreme care because there wasn’t a designated area for swimming- so boats and snorkelers precariously co-exist. The entire port was covered with restaurants and cafes. The beaches were all rocks. People were actually lying out on the rocks to get sun. I'm sure that was super comfortable.

Lunch:
We stopped for lunch at Capt John's. This was recommended to us by our tour guide and although the food was edible, there were other (similar or better) options. Capt John's is off the dock to the right, the second restaurant - not to be confused with the first restaurant that you assume is Capt. John's. This restaurant is a self serve establishment with a huge seating area. I assume most of the tour guides recommend this place considering the food doesn’t warrant the place to be this packed. The entire seating area was pandemonium and it was difficult finding a table. Cafeteria style from the seating to the food setup (trays, lines) and very pricey considering the service and food quality. No cover charge. For 22 Euros we got a small Greek salad, order of Taziki, one chicken souvlaki (one skewer) with french fries, pastichio and 4 slices of "wonder" bread. Sounds like a lot of food but the portions are small.

We left there and started to walk around the port (with my bread in hand). We found several (unnamed) tavernas that had similar food but they were less crowded and offered full service. We stopped at a taverna at the end of the port to the left. They had a full menu and the restaurant was very quiet even though there were quite a few diners. We ordered two excellent cappuccinos and sat over the water feeding the fish. What fun. Sounds silly but we spent at least 45 minutes there just relaxing, having coffee and being entertained by schools of fish going crazy over the bread that I was throwing into the water. Had I known about this place when we initially got off the boat we would have come here for lunch. It just had a better feel, less cattle-run and shaded with a nice breeze. We met back at the boat (where 5 other ships were also docked) but not before stopping for ice cream right at the port. The line was long but it was delicious making it worth the wait. Back on the ship we sailed for about 15 minutes or so and were dropped off where we started. For the price you could not go wrong. We had a great day and were able to see everything we wanted plus meet some really nice people. Plan ahead for transportation back to your hotel otherwise you will be left climbing back up the 231 steps to Oia like we did. There is a shuttle that takes you to the top but it was packed and I assume this is normally the case. If you are staying at the Katikies or a hotel close to it, there is a dock/port almost directly below the hotel so walking through Oia is not necessary. **Pack a bathing suit, towel, sunblock, hat and comfortable sneakers or hiking boots.** This trip has some level of physical difficulty in the sense that you need to hike the volcano, dive/swim off the boat, and in some cases climb thru another boat when docking. Although you could stay on the boat, what is the point of going? Great family outing, the kids on our tour had a blast.

Highly Recommended.

1800 - Oia, 30 22860 71485 or http://www.oia-1800.com/

We had booked reservations here months in advance through our concierge and specified that we preferred to sit upstairs in the roof-top garden. The night we finally arrived, the restaurant claimed that it was going to rain and therefore the rooftop was closed. (There was not a cloud in the sky!) Accordingly, we were seated in a very tight, small table that was next to the main walkway/street in Oia. To be brief, the main walkway in Oia is like a cross between a busy NYC street with a feel of one of the "shopping" streets in Venice (past St Mark's Square). It's an old, narrow, concrete pedestrian-walkway packed with tourists window shopping. Therefore, sitting at a table that was next to the walkway is far from ideal - especially when you are paying these prices for dinner. We left and figured maybe we'd come back, maybe we wouldn't. Needless to say it never rained. Two days later we returned and the rooftop was open. The restaurant is housed in an old captain's mansion built in 1845 and is very charming both inside and out. The rooftop is a very nice, open space with white lights and lots of plants and flowers. There was such a large staff, I think they out numbered the 30 or so tables. They were pleasant yet somewhat slow. (Remember I’m a New Yorker) The view was alright, not great. (Ambrosia’s is far better)

1800 is somewhat set back from the Caldera so that your view is partly obstructed by the roofs of other buildings. They serve an eclectic Mediterranean/Continental cuisine with a 4.50 Euro per person cover charge. We were automatically brought bottled water to the table, and charged 3 Euro for it. The cover includes a delicious fava spread with breadsticks and rolls. We ordered two salads to start; pear, proscuitto, lettuce and brie which was 17 Euro and tomato, cheese and cucumber which was 14 Euro. Two of the most expensive salads I have ever eaten. My husband said his pear salad was phenomenal. For entrees we had the lamb shank and the mushroom risotto with parmesan crisp. Both were excellent at 23 and 20 Euro respectively. We were too stuffed to even attempt dessert. I was shocked that this up-scale restaurant allowed cats to roam. I would have thought they would have a staff member taking care of that but they didn't and once again we were watched by every stray cat in town during dinner. Overall a very romantic, pricey, dress-up restaurant. Reservations a must. Our bill was 109 Euro ($131.00). Located about 10 minutes from Katikies on the right hand side, behind a high black gate (you will miss it if you are not looking for it). First seating is at 8 pm daily from April-October. Accepts all major Credit cards. Recommended.

Ambrosia - Oia, 30 22860 71413 or http://www.santorini-gr.com/ambrosia.htm

Located in the center of Oia, on the left hand side in the upper level of a white building (near the main church). Again, you must keep your eyes open for the sign or you will pass it - not to be confused with "Ambrosia & Nectar". Very quaint restaurant with unobstructed views of the Caldera. They serve Mediterranean and a Modern Greek cuisine. Everything on the outside terraces (two levels with a total of 10 tables) is decorated in white with lots of candles. The terraces actually jet over the water and it is so romantic. It feels as if you are dining while floating above the caldera. There is also dining inside a vaulted ceiling room that is filled with antiques, candelabras and burgundy walls. We initially had reservations for a Saturday night but after the headache at 1800 we walked to Ambrosia to see if they were willing to fit us in and then did. They gave us the best seat in the house in fact. 5 Euro cover per person includes a sundried tomato & feta cheese spread that they are "famous" for and a blue cheese yogurt spread. Both were excellent and served with a choice of two breads. After sitting, we were automatically brought a bottle of water and were charged 3 Euro for it. We ordered the Santorini Salad and the Aubergines for appetizers. The salad was basically a gourmet Greek salad with olives, capers, cucumber, yellow peppers, some lettuce, tons of feta wedges in a vinaigrette dressing and it was excellent. The Aubergine was layered with fresh tomatoes, mozzarella and covered in a yogurt sauce - excellent as well. For entrees we ordered the Veal and the Fresh Veggie Pasta. The veal was served in layers with goat cheese and tomatoes and covered in a cream sauce with whipped aubergines on the side. The fresh pasta was okay, I think a bit dry, but the linguini was homemade. To be honest I was so full at that point, it didn't even matter. A bottle of house wine was 20 Euro and it was delicious. The desserts looked incredible and very eclectic but we were too full. The service was absolutely excellent and friendly and overall the meal was delicious. Our total bill was 110 Euros ($133.00) which included 2 appetizers, 2 entrées, bottle of water, bottle of wine and the tip. Trust me when I tell you they were robbed. Dressy attire, reservations required. Not a place for children. Major credit cards accepted. To me the best overall place (food, atmosphere, view, service) in Santorini for gourmet dining. Open daily from April-October. Very Highly Recommended.

Anemones - Oia

We stopped here for lunch on our first day in Santorini. Our hotel room was not ready and this was the closest place to eat. The menu was a decent size including crepes, salads and pizza. Although we had been eating so well in Crete, I don't think we had high expectations here - especially since it was a last minute-just pick something kind of place. After walking up a large set of stairs you realize the view is worth the visit. All outdoor/rooftop seating with views of the Caldera, covered with several umbrellas. The wind up here gets fairly strong, but it was a nice warm breeze and allowed us to really relax. Although there were only 5 tables filled the restaurant had at least 30 + tables. The service here was one waitress who was a bit of a grouch and spent most of the time we were there complaining to customers about other customers. There is a .50 Euro cover and that included some bad bread thrown in a small basket with paper napkins and the silverware. We ordered a Greek crepe and a personal pizza. For some reason I was dying to taste the Greek version of pizza. The crepes were served in a rectangle-shape and were huge and surprisingly good. The pizza was covered in fresh sauce, lots of vegetables and local cheese (not mozzarella). The portions in general (what we ordered and what we saw others having) were enormous. The pizza could have easily fed two people. I will say I was very disappointed in the olive oil though, especially after having just left the land of amazing olive oil - Crete. Their oil was very generic, similar to what we get at home in the States. This place is fine for a casual lunch. It was fairly inexpensive and the views couldn't be beat. Plenty of cats around though and they feel free to hop on spare chairs near you. Accepts MasterCard & Visa. Somewhat Recommended.

Aris Restaurant - Fira, 0285-25408

Located in the lower level of the Loucas Hotel in Fira towards the Old Port with very nice views of the volcano & Caldera. Serving traditional Greek and international cuisine. This place is not for the elderly or handicap as we had to hike down about 75 steps. The cover was 1.50 Euro and they served both white and whole wheat bread that was fresh, accompanied with a garlic spread. We ordered taziki, fava spread, pork souvlaki, chicken souvlaki and a bottle of water. The souvlaki came with corn and broccoli. Our bill was 38 Euro after tip. I have read a lot of reviews that this place was "excellent" and the "best in Santorini". I totally disagree. The service was good, the food was fair (the pork was a bit overcooked) and the price was on the expensive side considering this is basically a taverna. I would not go out of my way for this restaurant. Owned and operated by the Ziras family who are very accommodating. Casual atmosphere. Great views. Reservations not required for lunch but recommended for dinner. Somewhat Recommended.

Koukouvalas - Fira, 22860-23-807

If you don't know where you are going, you will never find this restaurant. There are no signs and it's at the end of an out of the way pedestrian walkway, so give yourself some extra time to search. Located below the Hotel Atlantis facing the caldera is the most help I can provide to be honest. Once you arrive you can see how beautiful, large and spacious the restaurant is with beautiful views of Fira. Plenty of outdoor and indoor seating although I am sure during peak season this place is packed. The colors are shades of orange and the walls are covered with what looks like local art. There is an open kitchen and the doors/walls that separate the terrace area from the indoor tables open completely to give the indoor part and outdoor feel. Koukouvalas serves a contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and although there are Greek items on the menu they are not prepared in a traditional style. The menu does vary though, so you need to be flexible. There is a 4 Euro per person cover charge which includes two breads; sundried tomato and seeded. We were automatically brought a bottle of still water and charged 3 Euro for it as well.

For dinner, I chose the 5-course tasting menu for 50 Euro. The first course was a frozen tomato with cucumber gelatin and herb feta on the side. Course two was a fava mouse with tomatoes, nuts, eggplant and mushrooms served in a martini glass. Course three was a lentil and veggie soup with feta essence while the fourth course was moussaka. The final course was dessert, obviously, and they served a vanilla-pepper ice cream with poppy seeds and a candied tomato. I'd like to mention that every course was a picture-perfect display. My husband ordered a salad for an appetizer which had butter lettuce, pine nuts, tomatoes and a vinaigrette and the veal shank for dinner. All of the food was excellent and so well prepared. Artwork is really what I should call it. The service was top notch, even offering me a cashmere wrap when they saw I was under-dressed for the cool evening weather. Our total bill was 125 Euro ($153) with tip which I thought was a fair price for the gourmet meal we had enjoyed although very expensive compared to most of our dining elsewhere, especially in Crete. Reservations suggested, especially during peak season. Very romantic, definitely great for special occasions. Accepts all major credit cards. Dressy casual attire, not a place for children or for picky eaters. This is eclectic dining. Open daily noon-3 pm and 7:30 pm - 12:30 am. Highly Recommended.

Strogili Café - Oia

Located on the rooftop of an orange-ish building, this restaurant is prime seating for caldera views. Serving an Italian and Greek cuisine, a 1.40 Euro per person cover charge gets you a feta & cream cheese spread with decent rolls. A very no-frills restaurant with good service that happened to be all male that day. We ordered the carbonara pasta and a chicken souvlaki. The pasta dish was large and the chicken was served with french fries and a red cabbage salad. This souvlaki was the most traditional preparation so far and the Taziki was among the best we had. The carbonara was more of an alfredo sauce with pieces of ham in it, good but not the real thing. Our total bill was 26 Euro and that included what I listed above plus 1 beer and a bottle of water. No reservations needed for lunch, casual attire. Cats are everywhere here and they think nothing of jumping on top an empty chair next to where you are sitting. Accepts all major credit cards. Recommended.

White Cave - Katikies Hotel, Oia, 30 2 2860 71401

This restaurant should be saved for only the most romantic moments and special occasions. Serving only three tables (maximum of 12 people) this quaint restaurant at the Katikies hotel is far and away better than anything we've ever experienced in terms of hotel-owned dining. The natural (painted white) cave is built into the cliff (as is the hotel) and filled with candles and lots of white and gold linens. The waiter was so attentive and we never wanted for anything. The chef was also preparing food at the pool-restaurant and when we were ready for the next course, the waiter would phone him and the chef would run up the stairs to prepare our meal. What I found most amusing about this was the night we went to dinner, we were the only table seated. That meant that this poor chef had to run up and down the stairs (50 or so of them) based on how fast or slow we were eating. (Talk about personal service!) The restaurant features a traditional Greek menu but is prepared by a French chef.. Consequently, the food is different than what you would normally expect. The menu is set at 6 courses, and unless you have dietary needs, the menu is what it is. Note: I do not like red meat and they were happy to substitute. The first course was little cups of fava, taziki, and caviar with warm pita breads. So basic yet so delicious. Next was a stuffed tomato. This was no ordinary stuffed tomato, as it was completely peeled, cooked and stuffed with couscous and feta with a pesto sauce drizzled on top - excellent. Third course was lentil soup with a (local) cheese essence on top. The cheese was similar to feta and made the soup perfect. Fourth course was the entrée and the regular menu included a lamb shank and I was allowed the substitution of chicken. We finished with an incredible dessert; chocolate tart with homemade peanut butter ice cream. All of the food was extremely fresh, prepared with such care (I know I watched him cook it) and served with the precision of a synchronized dance. When we first arrived we foolishly questioned whether or not we should keep the reservation and to be honest I am so glad we did. Book your reservations way in advance. One seating only that starts at 8:30 pm. Dressy attire expected. The White Cave epitomizes elegant dining. Very Highly Recommended.

Santorini is part of the Cyclades Islands and is the southern-most island in the Aegean. It is also known as Thira although I didn’t hear one person refer to it as such. Total population is around 14,000 persons. When you think of Greece, with cliffs, white washed buildings, blue domes - it is Santorini that you are picturing. Via boat from Athens, it is about a 9 hour ride but by plane it's only about 30 minutes. To be fair I will say that driving from the airport or the port you do pass some very unpicturesque areas. Areas with barren and dry land, half built houses - almost like non-touristy parts of the Caribbean. However, upon arriving into the resort areas, it is really incredible. I mean picture perfect.

Ferry:

The ferry from Crete to Santorini was interesting to say the least. After much grief from our concierge in Crete, we bought our tickets and went to the port in Irakilion. We caught the "fast ferry" which was supposed to take 2 hours and ended up taking 3 ½ - with no announcement as to why we were running so late. The inside of the ship was like an airplane but larger and slightly nicer. (see picture below) Borderline pandemonium to enter and they were not strict at all with checking ids, looking at tickets or enforcing seat assignments. Basically if you found a seat - you sat in it. The smoking section was reserved for the bar area only which was nice since there was limited fresh air moving thru the ship. There were at least two (that we saw) snack bars that served beverages and light snacks. They had small TVs hanging from the ceiling which played Greek news and Greek soap operas at high volume the entire ride. Very annoying, especially if you were trying to sleep. I rarely get sea sick and this ride was not an easy one for me. The water (although it looked calm outside) was very rough during our sail and the boat swayed quite a bit. After arriving in the Santorini vicinity, the captain came on to make an announcement and the staff started to walk thru the aisles to get you up and motivated to the bottom deck. It was like a cattle call. Everyone was being rushed downstairs. We stood anxiously in the hull of the ferry for what seemed an eternity... the huge bay door opened and then ... bedlam. I felt like I was about to storm the beaches of Normandy. There was a mad rush to disembark. Total chaos! The ferry does not officially dock; it keeps the motor running in reverse and fights the current while people get off. Crew members lined the sides of the gangway, actually pushing people to the center so they don’t fall off. Definitely an experience. Just when you get your stuff together and want to take a picture in front of this gigantic red and white boat - it's gone.

Once at the Athinios port in Santorini, cabs are hard to find, so I would pre-arrange transportation or plan to catch the public bus which will take you to Fira for 2 Euro per person. Our hotel had their driver waiting for us which made this a very nice ending to a long trip. The port is filled with people trying to sell tours and a few small gift shops selling trinkets. We found many people taking this ferry for a day trip from Crete (or other islands) so if your travel plans do not include a stay in Santorini, this is an option.

Airport:

The airport was about a 40 minute drive from our hotel, Katikies in Oia. Small and servicing only two airlines; Aegean and Olympic. I have heard strong opinions both ways and I can tell you they are VERY similar and we found neither was better than the other. We flew Aegean from Athens to Crete and Olympic from Santorini to Athens. Both were clean and very well maintained planes with a courteous staff and both were similarly priced. Olympic is run by the Greek government and Aegean is a private company. All of the inter-island flights are prop planes that seat approximately 35 people. Olympic was much easier to book a ticket on though as we were able to buy them way in advance on Expedia.com. Aegean's site was always down and so we had to purchase those thru our concierge which of course dealt with a travel agent, so there was a small convenience charge added. The airport in Santorini is very small. You walk in and there are two long counters with 5 or so areas for agents. The lines are long and the agents are very careful with weighing your bags. Thankfully we knew this in advance and packed accordingly. Go to the airline's websites for specific weight restrictions depending on time of year. These weight restrictions were enforced as many people were complaining about additional fees for luggage!! After checking in you wait on a single file line to go thru "security". This is one man, one belt and one electronic arch to walk thru. The same guy that watches the x-ray belt is the guy that checks you out if you are buzzed after getting past the arch. That means the line is slow moving and the security is not very tight. So you pass security and there you are - at the gates. They have shuttle buses that pick you up to take you to the planes - all of which you enter from the runway and have to climb up a set of exterior stairs. The waiting area does not have ample seating. There is one duty-free shop at the gates and one "food stand" before the security line which was closed when we were there. www.olympic-airways.gr or www.aegeanair.com/aegeanen/home/index.asp To me a far better option then sailing.

Transportation:

The entire island has approximately 35 taxis, so as you can imagine they are hard to find. We were told by our front desk that they needed two hours notice if we needed a taxi to take us from Oia to Fira which is less than a 30 minute drive. To reach a taxi while on the island you can call, 22860/22-555. The cost was 12 Euro (before tip) to go from Oia-Fira via taxi and 1 Euro per person by bus. The buses here run frequently and are much cheaper. Buses run between every 30 minutes to an hour for all routes during the hours of 7 am to 11 pm. Fares are collected on board by a conductor during your ride. Unlike other countries, change is available. Many people rent scooters (about 20 Euro per day) and to be honest I think it's just too dangerous - almost like playing chicken. The roads here are all cliffs and all tight, hair pin turns. There is no guard rail and no room for error. The local drivers are very aggressive and they all pass each other. Our cab driver passed a large bus on a turn one night without thinking twice about it. From that point on I knew we weren't going to take a taxi again. Many hotels have drivers as well, so if money isn't an issue you can check that out. Walking from Fira to Oia is NOT an option. It is fair to note that renting a car is an option but silly. We were quoted a price of 75 Euro for one day for a compact, automatic car. Moreover, there seemed to be very little parking available. I would say the bus is the best mode of transportation on Santorini. They were clean, safe, and cheap and relatively hassle free.

Ran out of room - check out Notes & Thoughts Part 2

Oia:

Pronounced e-ah. Oia is the more exclusive part of Santorini. Very scenic and picturesque. This is where people flock for the sunsets and enjoy walking through town past the seemingly endless supply of open-air restaurants, jewelry and art shops. The streets are very narrow and crowded with pedestrians. There are no sidewalks, as the streets are off limits to cars. A quiet "neighborhood" with no late night noise that you will find in Fira. Definitely a more romantic setting than Fira.

Sunsets:

Sunsets in Oia are a big thing and people from all over the island migrate here to watch "the most famous sunsets in the world". In September the sun set around 7:15 pm and we had to leave our hotel at around 6:30-6:45 to get thru the crowd, walk thru Oia and find a place to stand once we got there. My best advice would be to go left at the fork (the only fork you will see) once in the middle of the town. Going left will take you to a "castle" area that is never as packed as the other areas. (see picture) Obviously some days are better than others but overall it's a nice way to start the evening, and very romantic. There are many sunset cruises (that you will see sailing). If that is something you are interested in check with your hotel. It looked like they all left from Fira.

Fira:

Fira (Thira), pronounced fear-a, is more touristy than Oia. It is the capital of Santorini. There are many shops, cafes and restaurants all on somewhat of a lower scale/level than what you will find in Oia. By that I mean things are generally less expensive and the overall quality (generally speaking) is less. The taxi "hub" and the main bus station are located here just south of the main square called, Plateia Theotokopoulou - across from the New Archaeological Museum. Fira is a great place for views of the volcano. There are a lot of walkways along the cliff which have shops and restaurants and all have great views of the caldera, volcano, Oia, etc. This is just a great area to absorb your surroundings - sort of surreal. Unlike Oia, the streets do have cars on them and therefore you must walk on sidewalks when available or on the street with the cars. There is a cable car (see picture) that takes you from the top of Fira to the bottom (port) areas for about 3 Euro per person. Unfortunately it was not working when we where there but to be honest I am such a chicken I question whether we would have taken it anyway. Churches in town do not allow visitors that are “improperly dressed”; including shorts and sleeveless shirts. Although pretty, these churches are not like what you'd find in Italy for example and therefore if you find yourself in town and under-dressed it isn't a major attraction that you will miss. Most of the cruise ships dock off the coast of Fira and tender their guests here. That being said the shopkeepers are open all day and into the early morning to accommodate potential buyers. There were quite a few internet cafes. We went to P.C Club in the main square. It was located above a bar/café and internet cards were sold at the bar area.

Wineries:

There are many Wineries in Santorini. Coming from the U.S where each coast has hundreds of them, it just didn't seem appealing to go. The grapes are grown low to the ground, and almost look like rows of weeds. Not very pretty, nothing like Napa. It is interesting to note that the soil is a combination of pumice and volcanic ash. The wineries themselves are small and most are open by appointment only. Check with your hotel first, as many of them offer their own personal wine tastings and/or can recommend their favorite places to visit. You will either need to rent a car/scooter or have a hotel driver shuttle you around as many of them are not close together. We had a different white wine from Santorini every night with dinner and were pleasantly surprised at the quality.

Red Beach:

We took the bus from Oia to the Red Beach which is on the outskirts of Akrotiri at the complete opposite end of the island from Oia. The cost was 1.40 Euro per person and the ride was about 20 minutes from Fira. The bus drops you off at a dead end with a café on the left and that is about it. If you follow the people and occasional sign, you will walk (right) along a beach, passing small restaurants. From there you walk uphill on a gravel path and about 15 minutes later you will be on a "mountain" looking down at Red Beach. The path continues down from there, again all on gravel. The beach is nice with lots of red lava and dirt. Overall it is more hype than its worth and we were somewhat disappointed once we got there. It is way off the beaten path and to add insult to injury the next bus was about an hour and a half later.

General:

I would say that 90% of the island's walkways are some form of gravel or cobblestone. That being said - No Heels!!! I wish someone would have told me that before I went because I packed everything but flats. Between the stairs, the uneven walkways, the cobblestone streets (especially in Oia), etc.. You have to be an idiot to wear shoes with heels. That idiot was me. As with the rest of Europe, everyone smokes here and we did not find any "no smoking" sections at restaurants. There were ample signs in English and we never had any problems with menus. Santorini is known for their tomatoes, white eggplants and capers. So make every effort to try all three, you will not be disappointed. If you own an MBNA credit card, I would recommend using that versus an Amex card. MBNA is the only card (that I know of for sure) that does not charge a service fee for using your card overseas. Worth a phone call to your credit card company in advance at the very least. A very romantic island that requires a consistent physical element on your part since there are no elevators and just about everything is built into a cliff. Not really a place for kids considering there is nothing to do with them or anywhere to take them. Overall we found Santorini to be expensive and the tourists to be predominately American. The weather was beautiful even in mid-September with warm days and a strong sun. Its borderline off-season so it's lacking the larger crowds and hoopla you'll find in mid-summer but everything is open so you miss out on nothing. This is a perfect place to relax and reconnect with your better half. I now understand why people say Santorini is one of, if not the, most beautiful islands in the world.

Very Highly Recommended.