MANGIA! A guide to good eating in Milano

La Torre di Pisa, Italian for the Leaning Tower of Pisa, is probably the best Tuscan trattoria that you can find outside the borders of Tuscany. It has been a family favorite ever since my dad celebrated his college graduation there in 1960--45 years later, we still love going there and relaxing with great food and excellent wine at one of the small tables.

Located in trendy Brera, the restaurant is always busy: reservations are required.

The food is divine. Don’t forget to start off your meal by ordering an antipasto misto, a traditional mix of bruschettas, hand-carved prosciutto, and Tuscan meatballs. As for pasta dishes, not only they are delicious, but they also are incredibly cheap: most of them go for around 8 Euros. If you like spicy food, try the penne alla puttanesca, a hot tomato sauce recipe that will leave you yearn for more.
Meat is the house specialty: Torre di Pisa takes pride in ordering prime Tuscan meats to make their steaks. For two or more people, I suggest the Fiorentina-style steak, an incredible entrée for the true meat lover. Also excellent is the Battuta alla Senape, literally a “beat-up” steak cooked in a mustard sauce. If you are still hungry, order the home-made lemon sorbet with a splash of vodka: not only is it good, but it also helps with digestion. The wine is very good, too: the list is extensive and prices are more than reasonable.

After dinner, enjoy a stroll around Brera, where no cars are allowed, and the street vendors will entertain you with their bargaining skills.

My first thought when I found out about Shambala was "why have they picked such a strange location for a fancy restaurant?" Via Ripamonti is a rather squalid boulevard in the outskirts of Milano, and it's definetly not the place wher you expect a great restaurant to be.

But don't be fooled. Once you reach the restaurant, located in an old farm building, you'll be speechless. As soon as you walk through the door you'll forget that you are in Milano, and feel like you have travelled back in time to the 1920s, when Vietnam was called Indocine, and opulence and excess were an everyday occurrence.

Shambala's atmosphere is just perfect: dim lights and candles illuminate the low tables, set with exquisite asian tableware. Once you sit on one of the very comfy silk cushions on the floor, order a cocktail (they have great bartenders), and take a look at the menu. Old vietnamese recipes are presented in updated versions with a flair: you'll find everything from spicy apetizer rolls to filet mignon, from vegeterian stir fries to incredible seafood dinners.

My personal favorite is the filet mignon cubes served over pineapple, snow peas, and rice. If you like steak that is so tender, it melts in your mouth, this is definitely the entree for you.

Shamabala is expensive, but I guarantee that you will enjoy the experience. There is nothing better after a day of fog, snow, rain, or humidity in a chaotic city like Milano than relaxing in the dimly lit, incense-scented, magical rooms of Shambala.

When in Milan, do as the Milanese do: forget dinner and meet with your friends for an aperitivo. Aperitivo is a concept that was invented in Milan: during happy hour, drinks cost as much as usual, but you get unlimited free food with it. Sounds great? It is. And Exploit definitely offers a great aperitivo: bruschettas, stuffed olives, mini sandwiches, cheese balls, focaccia, and everything else your heart might desire--just be prepared to fight the crowd to get close enough to the trays of food to grab what you want to eat!

Cocktails are delicious and prices are very reasonable. For 6 Euros you can drink one of the best vodka martinis in town.

In the summer people stand outside the bar chatting and drinking by the spectacular colonnade of San Lorenzo. In the winter everyone enjoys the cozy and relaxed atmosphere of the indoor bar, decorated with comfy couches, coffee tables, and a Art Deco decor.

Exploit is one of the best happy hours you'll ever experience--take it from a Milanese happy hour aficionado.