Japan's Wild Northern Lands!

Hokkaido has one big city--Sapporo. It is a nice place. There is a good bit of variety in Sapporo, with some great parks and locations. If you like bright lights and big cities, Susukino is a world-class entertainment district. My favorite parts of the northern island of Hokkaido are the wild places, though--the national parks filled with mountains, lakes, and wild scenery. These are fairly accessible using Sapporo as a home base. Generally I would recommend a couple of days in Sapporo and 5 to 10 days exploring the more remote places on the island.

Quick Tips:

While there are some obligatory stops in town (like the old municipal building and the old clock tower), my favorite spots are the parks, especially Nakajima. Finally, a night in Susukino should be on everyone's list. Mid-April is best for flowering cherry trees. Summer is wonderful, as there's no rainy season and it's much cooler (75°F, 25°C) and less humid than the other islands of Japan. Mid-October is best for fall colors.

Best Way To Get Around:

Unless you have a lot of time, the way to get to Sapporo is by plane. Reportedly, the Tokyo-Sapporo route is the busiest in the world. Maybe that's why Japan Rail is working on bringing the high-speed Shinkansen "Bullet Train" all the way to Sapporo. But that won't happen at least until 2015. Once you're here, the subway in Sapporo is great. Supplement that with busses and there's no reason to have a car in town.

I love the wild places on the planet. And if you want that in Japan, there's one best place—Hokkaido. The best of those are in Hokkaido's national parks. When you're there, you can see some amazing scenery and then rest and be pampered in some amazing natural onsen, hot springs. This is a very different Japan than the big city (Tokyo or Kyoto). I love both Japans.

 

 

So, first go to Tokyo and Kyoto (and Nikko). Then, since you're already flying all the way to Japan, why not take a little longer and explore the wilder places of Japan? Sure, they may not be your stereotypical "Japan, Inc." but you would be surprised how much of the culture you can pick up in these wild places, too. The way to get to Hokkaido is by plane. Once you're there, the best way around is a bit of a dilemma. I like to relax on the trains, but they miss the best scenery. Busses are better for scenery, but the information is almost exclusively in Japanese (though a bit of experience in reading timetables, careful comparison of a bilingual map, and a little spoken Japanese makes it possible). A car makes for the best flexibility, but between operating on the left side of the road, trying to read the signs in Japanese, and either traffic or macho drivers, I find driving in Japan tiring.

While Hokkaido is "wild" in the natural sense, Susukino is "wild" in the exotic sense. When the day turns to night in Sapporo, locals and tourist alike head to one place--the Susukino district. Sus'kino is filled with bright lights, restaurants, bars and clubs, massage places, and, my personal favorite, love hotels.

The restaurants start opening at 5pm. A local favorite is Ghengis Khan [or Jengis Kan]. This is a lamb that you barbeque at your own table, usually with a large beer in hand. Another speciality is ramen -- specifically Sapporo Ramen. There is a whole alley in Sapporo dedicated to ramen.

Bars run the gamut. There are discos, themed bars (my favorite is a cemetery theme), hostess bars (expensive), members-only clubs, and after-hours clubs that stay open, officially or unofficially, all night.

If you're in the mood for something more erotic, there are massage parlors. One of the most famous is Soapland, where, after a good soaping, you can pay for "extras." If you find someone, or bring your own companion (like I do), there is a Japanese adventure waiting to happen at a Sus'kino "love hotel." These are adult-oriented hotels that provide short "stays" (usually 3 hours, but sometimes 2). They are not very sleazy (aside from our typical association with sex and sleaze), partly because they are usually kept incredibly clean. They can run from the basic to the luxurious. At the most basic they provide a nice bathroom and large king-size bed (anything other than a single is somewhat rare in Japan). At the top end not only is the bath large, but a hot tub or even a private swimming pool is possible. Whether you come for an erotic adventure or just to spend the night (arrive after 11pm), these should not be missed!