WOW! Maui for everyone

Making arrangements for eight people to meet in Maui during the holiday season, all coming from different cities and on different schedules, is no small feat. Once there, however, we indulged in everything from Luaus to snorkeling adventures, biking Haleakala, upcountry horseback riding, golf lessons and seaweed treatments at the spa.

Quick Tips:

Start with the obvious things mentioned in the "highlights" If you tire of snorkeling, surfing, boating, whale watching, bodysurfing, sunning, lounging you might try driving upcountry as we did at long last.

There is much to see amid the beautiful, rolling ranch lands of upcountry Maui. Kula Lodge makes a fine lunchtime stop. Be sure to visit the adjacent Proteo Farm. The Botanic Gardens are also a must see on route up the volcano. We followed the snaking, meandering narrow road which lead to the Tedeschi Winery. There you can taste the wine and sample some history in the small but informative museum. We found the small exhibit conjured vivid images of life at the ranch in the days of the Makee sisters and provided a fascinating, historical perspective on ranch life in "old" Hawaii.

On our way back we stopped at the old cowboy town of Makawao and found it to be surprising bustling and quaint. To our surprise there were numerous fashionable boutiques and shops - to my husbands delight they were closed as it was late on Sunday afternoon. Never fear. I'll be back!

Best Way To Get Around:

The scent of plumeria wafts through the open-aired reception hall and grand lounge. Or is that the smell of the lei you were presented upon arrival? A ukulele strums in the corner of the room and the lovely wahine sways to the rhythm of the waves. Drawn to the balcony and breezes of the courtyard, you see it now. The postcard picture that will identify your days here – the ocean, the sun bouncing off the distant island of Lanai and the gorgeous cloud formations perpetually shrouding the mysterious Molokai.

The Ritz is in Kapalua on the former playground of the Hawaiian royals... a playground that includes the burial site of many ancient dignitaries. With this view, it’s easy to understand why the kings and their descendents wanted to linger here – forever.

When the Ritz broke ground for their hotel on Maui, they discovered the evidence of the sacred burial site and thus reconsidered their site plan. Originally intended to be distinctly "oceanfront," the Ritz now sits back from the sea just a bit. In order to utilize the beach, guests take a short walk or are happily driven in golf carts past the revered site (never through it! that is strictly verboten except to Hawaiian natives during authorized rituals), past the tennis center to the Beach House Restaurant and Ritz Carlton beach kiosk.

The beach is officially called the D.F. Fleming beach which is unofficially considered one of the best beaches on Maui. It, like all other beaches in Hawaii, is public, though a section of the beach is attended carefully by Ritz personnel. The kiosk stocks ice water, towels and lotions, and the helpful staff will set up your lounge chair, if you like. There are seaside showers and changing facilities along with the Beach House Restaurant where lunch is served until late afternoon along with the island’s best "lava flows."

The Ritz has an open policy with Kapalua which allows guests at the villas and homes to use the hotel facilities including the beach service, pools and spa. To truly feel pampered in the best spirit of "Aloha," poolside service at the Ritz is a must while visiting Kapalua. The multi-tiered pool, waterfalls, double whirlpools, covered and shelter cabanas, lunch and drink service, mid-afternoon complimentary pineapple chunks (fresh!!) and Evian spritzes are conducive to dreaming the day away. That is, if you aren’t tempted to take the challenge of the putting course or the croquet court adjacent to the pool area.

Friday is "Aloha Friday" in Kapalua as the Ritz invites local artisans and entertainers to spread culture and cheer. Other times, a full-time "cultural advisor" brings the unique aspects of native Hawaii to island hotel visitors. During our last visit to the Ritz, we participated in the Friday evening cultural entertainment. Native Hawaiians sang and "talked story" as kava was offered to help everyone get "mellow." Not that you need any help with that here!

This restaurant is the stuff of dreams to sushi lovers. Even if you are squeamish eating raw food, this would be the best place on earth to try it as the fish is only hours out of the waters when you eat it. If the fresh and excellent factor still doesn't convince you, you will also find dozens of other cooked versions of seafood specialties to your liking at Sansei. It is perhaps the most popular and busy establishment north of Lahaina because 1) the food is outstanding and 2) great numbers of locals thrive here on the "local" discounts. As if the food weren't enough to draw tourists and locals alike, Thursday nights are Karaoke night, which literally rocks the joint and makes getting a table tougher than getting into Aqua without a reservation on Valentine's Day.

Go early (5:30 pm) to slip into your favorite table easily and take advantage of the "happy hour" reduced price appetizers. I have not ordered an "entree" here, as it's much more fun to order tapas style from the huge selection of appetizers. Favorites include the Calamari salad which is fried calamari piled into a fried wonton shell on a bed of greens. What makes this dish a Maui specialty is the sweet and tangy sauce. Move on to the Panko crusted seared ahi, then the unbelievable Butter Fish (honest, it's like "buttah").

Trust the waiters. They are friendly, happy, kind and at least a few have admitted they work here because they are addicted to sushi and working to support their habit. They will steer you in the right direction if you are adventurous. Last time I was there I was introduced happily to the Rainbow Roll. It is like a California Roll with salmon, avocado and ahi on the outside. That ahi was so stupendously fresh we just had to order an extra side of sashimi to get our fill of this gift from the sea. Afterward we gave praise and thanks to the magnificent tuna who had sacrificed himself for our pleasure. Moments such as these make one glad one is human.

Save room for dessert -- the apple tart with cinnamon ice cream is very likely the best you will ever taste.

I'll admit it. I love Sansei. Everyone I know who's been there lusts after the unique flavors long after they've left the island. Hopefully you will too.

In Maui, with all that sun, sea and activity you can really work up an appetite fast. When you find yourself in the sudden "I need to eat right now" pickle , here are four suggestions for American’s favorite fast foods with nary a corporate logo in sight!

For Pizza: Pizza Paradiso with two locations, one at the Whaler’s Village food court and the other larger and more appealing option in the Honokowai marketplace. Voted as the best pizza on Maui, you can order your favorite by the slice or create your own specialty from an extensive list of ingredients. Also available are pastas, paninis, and one of the best Greek salad I’ve had. The tiramisu was also voted the best dessert on Maui. Menu and details are online at Pizza Paradiso

For Burgers: Jonny’s Hamburger Joint is a great alternative to golden arches any day. Hidden in a semi-subterranean location at the entrance to Kaanapali under Luigi’s Italian restaurant are the best burgers in Maui awaiting your discovery. Another best, you question? Well, they have the sign to prove it and my endorsement, of course.

There are big (6 oz.), bigger (9 oz.) and biggest (double sixes) burgers and fries made to order with scrumptious fried caramelized onions if you please (and I do!) There is a chicken breast/burger combo specialty and authentically shaken milk shakes to round out the meal. Don’t look for napkins. Those rolls of paper towels placed strategically on the community tables along with the condiments are what you’ll need to handle the mess made with these whoppers.

For Tacos, you can only go to one place in Maui: Maui Tacos. They have several locations on the island, but on the West side go to Napili market to enjoy their unique take on Mexican cuisine. This taco stand is about as Mexican as the Hula Hut in Austin is Polynesian,(see Journal: Austin) but that’s okay. We like a little local color mixed into our displaced ethnic cuisine. Although you won’t find the down-home authentic Tex-Mex flavors you might crave, you will find wonderful Hawaiian versions of freshly grilled fish tacos, tubular vegetarian burritos and an assortment of freshly made help-yourself-to-them salsas created with delicious local ingredients such as kula tomatoes and fresh pineapples.

For Deli and beyond, you simply must try out the locals’ favorite fast-food, Honokowai Okazuya and Deli 3600-D Lower Honoapiilani Road. This tiny little counter and carry-out gem boasts the most unusual and delightful menu selection I’ve seen anywhere on the island. Along with the typical deli sandwiches, tuna melt, turkey and cheese melt and Italian sausage , all served with Hawaiians favorite side dish, Macaroni Salad, there is also panko-crusted mahi mahi, teriyaki mushroom burgers and spaghetti and meatballs. If the picky eaters in your groups still can’t decide, have them try any of the six specialty vegetarian stir-fries or the Korean barbeque chicken with rice or a mahi mahi caesar salad.

Arriving in Maui on four hour’s sleep on a day that included a five a.m. wake up call, one layover, ten hours of flying time and five time zone changes, I was ready for something with a kick in it to tide me over until sundown, which was still amazingly six hours off. I knew just the thing to fix me up and just the place to get it.

The last time I was in Java Jazz it was the coolest coffee shop on the West Side and still blooming. Owners Katherine and Farzad Azad had the place smokin’ with exotic decor that included sofas brimming with overstuffed pillows, a fountain swimming with fish, artwork enlivening every nook and cranny, jazz streaming on the excellent sound system, whimsical, wild and wonderful touches and, of course, coffee brewing and smoothies shakin’.

"Darling! You’re back!" the ever charming Farzad greeted with his accent rich as a double espresso sweet as caramel creme. "And I lovewhat you’ve done to the place!" I told him with a two-cheek continental kiss, "c’est magnifique!" I try to throw in a little French or German or Spanish when I talk to Farzad to show him I’m not decaf. He speaks five languages and that’s only a small hint at his talents.

For one, he’s used his artistic flair to create a superb interior design that is a bistro, casbah, cafe and coffeehouse all in one. He doubled the original space and included a full-service restaurant and bar. The new, larger quarters offer the essential display spaces needed for Farzad’s expanding artworks which include pottery, paintings, and sculpture. The instruments, guitar and amp next to the stool in the back are also Farzad’s. He puts on impromptu performances and jam sessions with friends on certain evenings. This guy would make you feel inadequate except that he always makes you feel so wonderful, which is just another talent in his overabundant cache.

That‘s Cool, But How‘s the Food?
Only the best of the best of local premium blends and pure Kona make it into Java Jazz brews so be prepared for a jolt. If you want a bit mellower drink, have a mango-pineapple smoothie. Breakfast and coffee service starts at 6 a.m. with french toast, waffles, eggs, burritos, omelets and bakery items.

A simple soup, salad and sandwich menu is offered for both lunch and dinner which includes falafel, burgers, Tuscany chicken, and blackened fish. There are just enough surprises in the flavors and sauces to prompt you to recall them later and then want to have some more. I’m still thinking about that sweet thai chili cream cheese that kicked up my turkey, cranberry and romaine sandwich on sourdough toast. Which reminds me of the candied walnuts and apples on my spinach salad which then causes the jazzy music that was playing through the speakers while I ate it to still linger in my ears.

Sensational.

Anuenue means "Rainbow" in Hawaiian and couldn't be a more fit description of the melodious infusion of ambiance, service and cuisine presented at the Ritz' upscale dining option.

There is no better place to celebrate a special occasion during your stay in Maui than the Anuenue Room. After making yourself comfortable in first class dining chairs, before you've taken the first bite of wondrous food you will notice that singer/entertainer, Reko Fukino, has the voice of an angel who seems to have ridden down from heaven on a rainbow; a voice that soothes your spirits but never intrudes and is happiest when serenading special couples with requests. (I once saw her join a romantic couple after dinner out on the patio and sing Joni Mitchell's, "The Circle Game," just for them. The breeze was still, the stars were twinkling, the lovers were breathless and even the loud table across the way fell silent in response. I still get verklempt thinking of it.)

But back to the other stellar aspects of dining at Anuenue.

First off, the ambiance. Enter the restaurant through what appears to be a richly paneled private club room. Tropical flowers and crystal chandeliers share the limelight as sophisticated mood setters. Ubiquitous patio torches cast their dancing glow on the diners in the open-air portion of the restaurant. Most tables are overlooking superb views of the Ritz pools and the ocean.

An extensive wine list will surely entertain the most worldly connoisseur. The restaurant wine list has awards of excellence from the Wine Spectator magazine yearly since 1996. To see the extensive list of awards the restaurant has received go to the link, Ritz Carlton, Maui

After the pleasant task of choosing your wine has been accomplished, relax and be assured that anything you order will be memorable. Originally from the Champagne region of France, Chef Virgil Brandel uses his background and experience to fuse traditional French foods with distinctly Hawaiian flavor and ingredients such as salt-crusted onaga, and Hawaiian seafood bouillabaisse. The results are tres magnifique!

Anuenue Room regularly hosts "wine dinners" presented by representatives from top vineyards and are attended largely by the residents of Maui along with guests of the hotel. At one such festive dinner we had the distinct pleasure of being seated with Anuenue's head chef, assistant chef, sommelier, the representing vineyard owner and local wine distributor. Meeting these fascinating people was, as you might expect, as memorable as the food and environment.

If you are celebrating anything special, such as just being alive and in Maui, splurge on the Anuenue Room. It is sure to provide you with surprises and memories as it has so many time for me.