Bellinzona - Gateway to Southern Switzerland

Bellinzona, population 19,000, is the capital of the Ticino canton of Switzerland. Unlike its more well-known neighboring cities of Lugano and Locarno, Bellinzona made its mark on the region due to its location as a primary defense site for the north-south alpine passes. The three castles and the city walls that dominate the central part of the valley are the city’s best-known landmarks and tourist draws, but there is a lot to be explored and enjoyed in the area.

While Bellinzona enjoys local renown for its various festivals and celebrations, most foreign travelers – not aware of what is to be seen and enjoyed here – pass through on their way to another location. It’s their loss, for Bellinzona shares many attributes with Lugano and Locarno, without the crowds.

Like the rest of the Ticino region, Bellinzona enjoys a milder climate, tons of sunshine, and the outgoing and friendly Italian outlook on life combined with the best elements of the Swiss. It also has a thriving art and theater community, lots of historical churches and sites to explore, and a progressive sports scene.

A few of the festival highlights:

- Rabadan - Each February, Bellinzona transforms into "la città del carnevale" – "the Carnival city" – for its annual Mardi Gras celebration. Rabadan is a family-friendly celebration and the largest of its kind in the Ticino region.

- Cinema festivals include the the International Festival of Young Cinema; for these celebrations, the city itself becomes a cinematic landscape as piazzas and castle courtyards become film showcases. Bellinzona is also a good place to stay and enjoy the nearby International Film Festival held each August in Locarno.

- Piazza Blues, held in June, showcases jazz and blues musicians from all over the world.

- Music: a piano festival in April/May; and an pera festival held in July, with performances showcased in Castlegrande.

Are you a sports fan? There are plenty of ski resorts within under an hour’s transport. There are also miles of hiking trails, rafting, and other sporting opportunities. About half an hour away, you can visit Val Verzasca Dam. Val Verzasca was showcased in the James Bond film GoldenEye and is the site of the world’s highest (220m) bungee jump (http://www.trekking.ch/).

Quick Tips:

There is an audio tour available for only CHF5 (.85) from the Tourism Office in the Palazzo Civico (Town Hall) or from major tourism attractions in town such as the castles. The audio guide is available in seven languages, and here’s the best part – you can return it to any other site that leases the audio guide, so there's no need to backtrack!

Should you prefer a more personal touch, guided tours can be arranged via the Tourism Office (+41 (0)91 825 21 31) and can be tailored to meet the group’s interests and time restrictions. Tours are offered in a variety of languages, including English. The English-speaking guide, Julie, was fantastic, very knowledgeable about the castles and the city; I really enjoyed my tour with her. Groups should call the Tourism office several days or a couple weeks in advance.

I did not stay overnight in Bellinzona, so I cannot personally recommend any particular accommodations; however, the Tourism Office’s website (http://www.bellinzonaturismo.ch/) offers an impressive variety of accommodation links – ranging from inexpensive alpine huts for those doing hiking vacations, up through dorm-style housing for groups, hotels for a wide range of budgets, and private apartments and chalets.

Best Way To Get Around:

Major train and bus lines connect Bellinzona to cities throughout Switzerland and Europe. By train, it is approximately 2 1/2 hours to Zurich and half an hour from Lugano, or you can take the PostBus to Chur, approximately 2 1/4 hours away. Most trains traveling between Switzerland and Italy pass through the area.

Like most Swiss cities, Bellinzona has a good public transportation system; if you’ve invested in the SwissPass, it covers local transportation. However, most of the old city and the castles are within just a few minutes’ walking distance from the main train station.

A comfortable pair of shoes and a sense of adventure will serve you quite well here, as many of the older streets are still cobblestone, and you may find yourself doing a lot of climbing on stone when exploring the castles.

 

On the Via Pedemonte, which runs behind the Bellinzona train station, is a local restaurant called Ristorante Pedemonte. (It should be noted, however, that you can barely hear the trains inside). As it is not obviously marked, you might accidentally pass by, unless you notice the menu and small sign posted by the door.

Warm and cozy and clean and tidy, with a friendly staff, this is the kind of restaurant you hope to discover when travelling: locals crowd this restaurant for lunch and dinner, enjoying marvellous cuisine. The staff is very friendly, but be aware they do not speak English.

The Ristorante Pedemonte blends the freshest local ingredients in a combination of Italian, Mediterranean, and French styles. The menu changes daily depending on what is available, with six choices usually available, and is accompanied by a good-sized wine list.

Salad topped with a hearty amount of fresh shrimp and a dill sauce started off the meal.

When I was in Bellinzona, it was porcini mushroom season, which is incredibly popular in this region. From the end of August through late October, families and friends go up on the local mountainsides and go porcini-picking. Pedemonte had taken this regional favorite and created a dish made from strozzapreti ("priest choker") pasta tossed in a generous amount of porcinis and a cream-based sauce. I consider myself a mushroom enthusiast, but this is one of the best mushroom dishes I've had, hearty, rich, and very satisfying.

Make sure you leave room for dessert, however, because their desserts are sinfully rich and delicious. I enjoyed a dish made from chocolate and amaretto--mmmmarvellous!

If you're going to visit Bellinzona, I would highly recommend dining here!

________

Tuesday thru Friday, Sunday: 9:30am-3:00pm and 6:00pm-1:00am
Saturdays: 5:00pm-1:00am
Closed Mondays
Reservations recommended for peak hours

Directly across from the Collegiata dei SS Pietro e Stefano, you can find Gianfranco Peverelli Panetteria-pasticceria (Peverelli tearoom), where you can find a variety of light fare, pastries, chocolates, coffee, and spirits.

The café holds a memorable place in local confectionery history. In 1997, Giulia Clerici-Cariboni, an employee of the café, created the tasty treat that won the Confectionery for Bellinzona competition, called bissoli. Castelgrande once housed a mint, and the mint created a coin called the Bissolo, which depicted a snake curled around a stake. If you look closely at the snake, you see it is cut into three pieces by the design, each of the three pieces representing one of the three cantons--Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden--that once held joint power in Bellinzona. This snake is pictured frequently around the city.

Bissoli are chocolate cups about 1 1/2 inches across and 1/2-inch thick, filled with a traditional chestnut filling and a white chocolate snake on the top of the treat. Paired with an espresso or coffee, they make a lovely treat while visiting the old town.

Perched high above the city like a watchful gargoyle, the petite Sasso Corbaro Castle is the youngest of the three main castles in Bellinzona.

The Sasso Corbaro was built to fill what was considered a dangerous gap in the impenetrable line of city defenses – a spot high above the city where marauders could slip through. Built between 1478 and 1482, the smallest of the city’s grand castles is in the final stages of restoration.

To reach Sasso Corbaro, you must be prepared to climb. The local buses will take you most of the way up the hill, and then you must hike a short distance from there. (If you have a private car, a limited number of spaces are available at the top of the hill). The view is worth the climb. If you are really fit, the climb all the way up from the train station takes approximately 1-1/2 hours.

From the parking area, a cobblestone path brings you to the outer bailey; here you realize that the castle is really an enlarged garrison. The main fortress is approximately 25m x 25m, with an observation tower on the southwestern corner, and the fortified keep taking up the northeastern section. Like the two castles lower in the valley, the building is constructed of local grey stone, with machicolations and swallowtail merlons, giving them a very unified look.

Later, during peace times, the fortress was used as a prison. Weather, particularly lightning, damaged the building in the 1500-1600s, and sketches by J.R. Rahn in 1889 showed the building beginning to slide into ruin. Thankfully, the historical value of the castles was realized and the castle has been restored.

A small gift shop and café take up parts of the ground floor. Most of the rooms and hallways within the keep have been transformed into gallery space and meeting rooms; since there is a restaurant on-site with catering available, it has become a popular place for receptions and parties.

In terms of content, there is not a great deal to see here, beyond the Sala Emma Poglia, an outstanding example of 17th century Ticino woodcraft.

The best reason to come up here is of course, the outstanding views of the beautiful sun-drenched valley – on clear days, you can see down the valley towards Locarno, and northwards into the passes – making it easy to see why this became an important addition to Bellinzona’s defenses.

Of the three castles in Bellinzona, my favorite was Castillo de Montebello, which rises above the city like a graceful stone galleon.

Montebello was built circa 1300 and later connected to the city's defenses via walls. The fortress served as part of the city's defenses for many years, until falling into neglect in the early 1400s. When walking around the castle, look for what looks like lines of red brick embedded into the walls; these indicate where the first series of extensions and renovations (1462-1490) started from. The workmanship of the late 15th century gave the castle its shape as can be seen today.

Today, the castle is among the best surviving examples of Swiss medieval military architecture and is an UNESCO World Heritage site.

There is limited parking at the northern entrance to the site, or you can easily walk up from the train station in under 15 minutes.

Entering the castle via the functional drawbridge, you first pass into the fortified barbican before continuing over another drawbridge and into the main fortress. It is possible to holes in the walls in the towers built into the outer walls; when this castle was active, there would have been wooden floors and bunkhouses there.

At the western end of the inner fortress, you will find stairs that allow you to climb onto the outer wall. Be careful; the rocks can be slippery in wet weather, and only a single bar protects you if you put your foot through the machicolation. However, there are lovely views from here, as well as some very photogenic angles to view the inner keep.

Within the inner keep, you will find the Civic Museum, which houses a good-sized collection of archaeological finds from sites around Ticino, including prehistoric and Roman artifacts. The oldest relics are found at the bottom of the tower, and as you climb, you move forward in time.

One item of particular historical note is that the best castles were built over their own water source. Montebello has a well within the keep that even today provides an excellent aquifer - so good, in fact, that it must sometimes be pumped out to prevent overflowing.

If you are a Renaissance Faire buff, perhaps you will want to time your visit to coincide with La Spada Nella Rocca - "The Sword in the Fortress" - a 3-day celebration held each June, next slated to be June 2-4, 2006, and one of the largest ren faire celebrations in Europe. This is an extremely popular attraction in Bellinzona, and one that is celebrated not only in the castle but in the town as well.

 

It is easy to see why the magnificent Castelgrande was an important military stronghold: it sits high above the city of Bellinzona on a natural island of granite in the heart of a major pass at the southern end of the Alps.

Archaeological finds have revealed that people lived there at least as far back as the Neolithic period (5500-5000 BC). The castle as we know it today was started circa 1242, and extensive building, expansion, and renovations continued on the site for 250 years.

There are a few different ways to reach the castle: you can walk up the Salita Al Castelgrande or climb the steps from near the Piazza Collegianta. The most popular method is to take the elevator from Piazza del Sole, which was installed as part of the castle renovations conducted under the guidance of local artist Aurelio Galfetti between 1982 and 1992. (I have to admit that I felt that the dramatic hewed-stone entrance to the elevator made me feel as if I were passing into Moira in Lord of the Rings!). Galfetti was hired to take Castelgrande and take it from a state of semi-disrepair and turn it into a functional, multi-use facility that also maintained the historical integrity of the structure.

As you exit the elevator, a cobblestone ramp leads up into the inner bailey of the castle. At one time, this area was filled with many smaller buildings, but most were torn down when the castle was in the possession of the Dukes of Milan in the late 15th century. This is a wonderful vantage point to view the inner castle structures as well as take in the outstanding views to the east, where you can see the castle walls extending towards Montebello; the petite Sasso Carbaro on the hillside above; and the oldest part of town, including the Collegiata Church of SS. Pietro e Stefano.

There is a small museum in the structures that line the southern end of this bailey. Admission is only a few Swiss francs. Attractions include archaeological finds, a selection of coins from when the castle served as a mint (16th century), and the decorated ceilings from Casa Ghiringhelli (1470-1480) that were painted in celebration of a wedding and tell the stories of the two families.

The castle is host for a variety of cultural events, ranging from open-air cinema to opera, concerts, dance, art exhibitions, and fashion shows. It is also a popular location for meetings and is home to two restaurants: The Grotto offers open-air dining on the southern terraces in summer months, while the Restaurant Castlegrande operates a fine-dining establishment as well as providing catering for events in the castle.

Once you have explored the castle, ramble down the city wall, which will give you outstanding views of Castelgrande, its sister castles, and the old city. This walk will take you about 20 minutes but is totally worth it. From there it is an easy walk back to the old town.

If you come to Bellinzona by train, turn left out of the station onto the Via le Stazione, which will take you to the heart of the old city in less than 10 minutes' walk. Here you can explore the lovely Collegiata dei SS. Pietro e Stefano.

The facade of the church is typical of Italian churches, with a relatively simple facing and limited ornamentation. Depending on the time of day and the light, the stones seem to change colors, giving depth to the carvings and statues.

However, unlike the austere Protestant churches of the north, the Collegiata is richly ornamented with baroque paintings, carvings, and statues. From the tile flooring to the vaulted ceilings, there is something to examine and appreciate.

The fontana Trivulziana (baptismal font) dates to the 15th century, and the massive organ dates to 1533--and still functions. (The Collegiata dei SS. Pietro e Stefano is an active church.)

If you enjoy religious architecture, this is one of the more colorful and interesting churches I have seen in Switzerland.

If you are looking for a European Mardi Gras, especially one that is family-friendly, look no farther than Bellinzona's Rabadan.

For the week before Ash Wednesday, Bellinzona becomes "La città del carnevale," the "Carnival City." The Rabadan celebrations date back to 1862, and in fact, the word "rabadan" in the local dialect means "uproar" or "hubbub."

During the "città del carnevale," the core of the old city is pedestrians-only, and people buy a pin that will give them access to many parties and activities around this area. There is even a competition held for people to submit designs for these pins, and they are considered collectibles. You can buy the pins online via the official Rabadan site.

On the final Sunday before Ash Wednesday, there is a great masked parade that winds through the old town. Bellinzona ensures that the Rabadan is very family-friendly, however, and the celebrations include the children having their own parade, "Città dei bambini," which local schools take great pride in participating in.

Presiding over the Rabadan are the King ("Sua maestà Re Rabadan") and the Queen ("Regina Rabadan") of the carnival and their court, "Il Re e la sua corte." This is a strictly voluntary position, and as such, the volunteers can hold the position as long as they would like. Each of the towns and cities in the Ticino region have their own king and queen, which are considered "kingdoms," and pay their respects to the Bellinzona king and queen as head of the largest festivities in the region. Likewise, the Carnival courts visit the other Kingdoms throughout the carnival season, which means that the King and Queen can be very busy for the first several weeks of the year. Bellinzona had a king who held the position for many years and was quite popular, who recently retired, and their current king, Dante Pesciallo, has held the position for about 3 to 4 years.

___________

For more information, visit http://www.rabadan.ch/.

The dates for 2006 are February 23 to 28.

During the Rabadan celebrations, discount fares are available on local train lines and in conjunction with the pin.

Whether you have just a couple hours or a few days to spend in Bellinzona, there is a loop tour you can do that can take you as little as 90 minutes or the better part of the day, depending on how much time you spend at each location.

From the main train station, turn left down the Viale Stazione. Across from the post office, turn right down Largo Elvezia. Walk one block to the Piazza del Sole - here you can see across the Piazza to Castelgrande, the large castle that rises above the center of the town.

Cross the Piazza to the elevator for Castelgrande. The elevator takes you up to the eastern bailey of the castle, where you will enjoy outstanding views of the old town, the remains of the city wall, and the two smaller castles on the eastern hills of the city - Montebello and Sasso Carbaro. There is also plenty of things to see in the castle - or, should you have the time, a couple choices to enjoy a meal.

Cross the west bailey to the Murata, part of the city wall that once crossed the entire valley floor. This is a wonderful walk, with some of the best views of Castelgrande. It takes about 15-20 minutes to walk the Murata down to the first exits on the city level.

As you emerge onto the street, turn right and follow the street. You'll pass a large ornate iron gate; cross the street to Via Teatro. Here you will see the Teatro Sociale Bellinzona (http://www.teatrosociale.ch/), which is Switzerland's best example of neo-Classical theater architecture, built 150 years ago and renovated in the 1990s. Inside, the theater is modelled on Milan's La Scala.

Via Teatro curves to the northeast and passes the Palazzo Civico (town hall), which was completely rebuilt in 1924. On Saturday mornings, the piazzo just north of the Palazzo Civico is home to the city market. Follow this street; you will pass the "red house" (terracotta-faced)and arrive in Piazza Collegiata. On your right you will find Collegiata dei SS Pietro e Stefano, a Baroque masterpiece church.

Enjoy a coffee and chocolate at one of the cafés on the square before continuing down Viala Stazione back to the train station.

_____________

Sneakers or other comfortable, solid shoes recommended, mainly for the walk across the Murata.

In the German-speaking parts of Switzerland, the town hall is usually called the Rathaus; in the French-speaking sections, you may find it called the Municipo. Here in Bellinzona, it is known as Palazza Civico. This historic building was completely rebuilt in 1924 using the stone from the original building. The two oldest remnants of the original building were salvaged and can be viewed on either side of the entrance on the piazza side of the building.

The building is quite striking and attractive on its exterior, but you need to walk inside to really appreciate the full beauty, where you can view the inner balconies. If you look closely you will note that the wooden ceiling panels are quite old, reinstalled from the previous incarnation of the building, and are hundreds of years old.

You will also see carved stone shields on the walls, which tell the story of Bellinzona. (If you take a city tour, you can ask the guide to help explain the meanings of the slabs). You can also see paintings that depict major events in Bellinzona/Ticino history.

Saturday mornings in the piazza on the north side of the building there is a farmers market, and in December there is a Christmas market.

The Bellinzona Tourism Office (open Mon–Fri 8am–6:30pm, Sat 9am–noon; April–Sept also Sat noon–5pm; Tel. 091/825 21 31, www.bellinzona.ch) has a variety of maps and can arrange walking tours of the city, including themed walks. You can also pick up/drop off the inexpensive "Art Key," the do-it-yourself audio tour, here, but it can also be returned to many other locations in the city. The Tourism Office can also help you find accommodations around the city, which is very helpful!