Lima Journals

The Vibrant Life of Lima

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A September 2005 trip to Lima by eviet

Convento y Museo de San Francisco Photo, Lima, Peru More Photos
Quote: Lima and New Jersey somehow have the same reputation--each one is considered the armpit of its country. But without spending time in Peru’s fast-paced, thriving (and yes, polluted and poverty-ridden) capital instead heading straight to the Sacred Valley, you forgo the real, raw Peru for its sparkling, tourist-ridden counterpart.

The Vibrant Life of Lima

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Overview

Convento y Museo de San Francisco Photo, Lima, Peru
Quote:
It is obvious as you exit Jorge Chavez International Airport that Lima is no Rio. Actually, with its heavily clouded sky, briskly cold waters year-round, and thickly polluted air, Lima seems to have little to offer a vacationing traveler. And since most allot Lima a day or two in their travel itinerary, its shady downtown characters leave more of an impression than its modern middle-class neighborhoods of Miraflores, Barranco, and San Isidro. Given the chance, though, Lima can not only redeem itself of its sketchy reputation, but amaze with its succulent cuisine, vivacious nightlife, and astounding culture. First and foremost, there is the food. Peruvians love thick, savory sauces and swe...Read More

La Paz Apart Hotel

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Hotel

La Paz Apart Hotel Photo, Lima, Peru
Quote:
I must be an incredibly trusting person--that or just plain ol’ stupid--because I blindly handed my credit card number to Go2Peru.com, a website I’d never heard of, nor had anyone else. Although dotted with a reassuring "Verified by Visa" icon and "In Association with Amazon.com" box, are those really that hard to fake? But I ignored my mother’s ever-present cautioning voice and booked the La Paz Apart Hotel. Plus, for all I knew, La Paz had a resident crack dealer housed on the second floor, outhouse bathrooms worse than porta-potties, and a rogue employee preparing the muggers for our arrival. But trust I did. And what a glorious thing trust is (although we did confirm our reservations with the h...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 19, 2005

La Paz Apart Hotel
Av. La Paz 679, Miraflores
Lima, Peru
511/242-9350

Los Delfines Summit Hotel and Casino

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Hotel | "Los Delfines"

Los Delfines Summit Hotel and Casino Photo, Lima, Peru
Quote:
I am not high-maintenance. Actually, I have no problem with a $10/night hostel—as long as the sheets are bleached clean and there is a working toilet and shower. But man it’s nice to luxuriate in a five-star hotel, even if only for one night. Although greeted by an aloof front-desk staff who exuded nothing like the genuine friendliness of the employees at La Paz, the cavernous lobby in an ocean blue, complete with glowing blue lights, overcame their snootiness with its reverberating sense of refinement. Of course, the aforementioned treatment was probably because I was at least 20 years younger than their average guest. I looked like a downright clueless teenager next to the suits and designer dres...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 8, 2005

Los Delfines Summit Hotel and Casino
Calle los Eucaliptos 555
Lima, Peru
51 1 2157000

Tradición Morena

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Restaurant

Tradición Morena Photo, Lima, Peru
Quote:
As desperate vendors shoved barely cooked chunks of indescribable meat towards the car window, three Peruvians and I continued to drive through Lima’s surrounding slums for a lengthy half-hour. My persistent Peruvian companions only uttered defeat upon seeing the looming closed gate: it was Sunday, and our winery destination had closed at 1pm. Only my second day in Lima, still adjusting to the overcast darkness, this winery fiasco completed my embodiment of the annoyed New Yorker persona. I then dared to utter, “It’s not like Peru’s known for its wine anyways.” Silence. Our two companions being non-English speakers, I thought only Danny, well accustomed to my less-attractive moods, would understand me...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 19, 2005

Tradición Morena
Av. Benavides 2392, Miraflores
Lima, Peru
273-4973

Pachacamac

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Attraction

Pachacamac Photo, Lima, Peru
Quote:
Pachacamac or Machu Picchu? While I had never heard of the former, I was bursting with excitement over the latter. But Pachacamac, a large adobe-constructed Inca structure about a half-hour outside central Lima, was an expansive, impressive introduction to the never-ending ruins of Peru. Plus, it wasn’t just a wannabe Machu Picchu, as its construction required a different kind of ancient intelligence, built with sand instead of rock. That’s not to say I would recommend heading here after your high-point Machu Picchu excursion, because then it might look like one big sandcastle. Part of the appeal is what you see when venturing farther out from this ruin before or after your visit. The “hills” of Li...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 25, 2005

Pachacamac
Antigua Panamericana, 31km from Lima
Lima, Peru
(01) 430-0168