Stirling: Scotland's Heritage City

Stirling is rich in almost anything that one could want. It is a fairly compact city within driving distance to a number of other destinations. It has shopping, a variety of restaurants, and a number of historic attractions. The visitor should see the castle, the Wallace Monument, and the Old Town Jail at the very least, and should spend some time walking the streets of Stirling’s Old Town, the area just below the castle with cobbled streets, much of which retains its original character, even as it is turned over to restaurants and shops. The shopper will find that Port Street has been turned into a pedestrian area between Dumbarton Road and King Street, and exploring up either of the latter provides a number of shopping and relaxation possibilities. There is also an attractive Victorian shopping arcade between Barnton and King Streets.

Quick Tips:

You will find in Scotland that many things you want to see are governed by Historic Scotland. You can buy an Explorer 3-day pass (3 out of 5 days), which can save you a considerable amount of money. That includes Stirling Castle, Edinburgh Castle, etc., and many smaller attractions. I kept getting asked if I was a member and slowly grew to realize that it might have been a good decision. When you visit any of Stirling’s major attractions - the Castle, the jail, the Wallace Monument, or Bannockburn - you are given a slip good for 10% off admission at all the others.

Stirling Information is well posted coming into town. You will find it on Dumbarton Road. They can provide you with a free map that highlights everything you’ll need. If you’re only in town for a few hours, you might consider leaving your car at some of the street-side pay parking in the area and exploring. There is also well-marked parking in the centrally located Thistle Shopping Center and a number of other locations.

Best Way To Get Around:

Stirling is so compact that it can be walked. There is the big red sightseeing bus, and if you’re on foot and want to get out to the Wallace Monument or Bannockburn, it is an option. For those things, and the surrounding countryside, it makes sense to have a car, but once in the town, you don’t need it and parking fees will start to add up. If you’re staying in town, try to find a place with parking. As I said, the train station is in the midst of town and provides quick access to a number of places.

Welcome to the gracious John Allan-designed house of Dorothy and Hamish Mailer. A Scottish historically listed building built around 1870, it retains all its original grandeur. It is one of the Scottish Tourist Board’s five-star bed-and-breakfasts (Scotland’s Best B and B’s), and it’s virtually impossible to find fault. The Mailers keep three rooms for guests during the tourist season.

We stayed in the Victorian Room, £130 for 2 nights. It is a large front room with magnificent moldings, a marble fireplace, loveseat, and four-poster bed. There are all the other niceties: hair dryer, remote-control TV, CD player/alarm, and tea and coffeemaking facilities. The three-piece bath is an add-on in the room, but it has been done extremely well. I admit that I laid in bed the first morning thinking that I could probably just afford to actually live here all year; it was that good.

The three rooms share an equally elegant lounge, but we found our room so comfortable that we weren’t encouraged to spend any time there.

Breakfast is particularly well done. Guests eat at the six-seat, round table in the home’s dining room. The menu selection includes almost everything that you could possibly want for breakfast and then some. I had never thought about filling a couple of crepes with bacon and sprinkling them with cheese, but while they should be illegal, if just for the calorie content, they’re very good. And there’s much more, from kippers to a full Scottish breakfast.

The attention to detail is incredible – everything is just about perfect and the Mailers are wonderful hosts. The caveats are that you may not arrive until after 4pm and that while you have a key to your room, you do not have a key to the house and are expected to vacate it between 10am and 4pm during the day. Also, payment is to be in cash. The property features enough parking for its guests and the entrance to the drive has electronic gates. I really can’t think of much that the Mailers could do to improve their operation. You can see their site at Ashgrove House.

The restaurant, a pleasant room in yellow with well-set tables and an attractive bar at the back, boasts "authentic Greek cuisine." Who am I to argue, as this turned into an enjoyable evening with good food and quick, if not brusque, service.

Two kinds of olives immediately appear on the table as you contemplate the menu, which consists of hot and cold starters, a list of meat dishes, and a list of house specialties. We chose from the specialty list: kleftaki (slow-cooked lamb with herbs) and meat moussaka. Both choices more than lived up to our expectations and were served with a lightly oiled salad, rice, and potatoes.

The beer list had two Greek beers and Stell,a and the wine list tended to be Greek and fairly expensive in the £16 range and up. We chose the house wine, a white that was actually from Gascony and which complimented the meal very well.

Overall, as I said, it was a nice evening. The restaurant was fairly busy (it was Saturday), but having walked by the night before, I had little doubt that we would be able to get a walk in. They are doing a few things very well, and I would most certainly return when I felt the yen for Greek dining.

Italia Nostra is a pleasantly decorated room with an open kitchen. It features a beamed ceiling, attractive coloration, oil paintings, a few prints, and nice lighting. The tables are well covered and well lit.

The menu is huge, with a range of antipastos, minestre, fish, pizza, carne, pasta, and sweets. The wine list tends to be expensive.

We found the room busy, the service attentive, and the patrons happy. We chose pizza margherita to start, and both of us ordered spaghetti carbonara. It was all excellent. The house red was an inexpensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, not the best, but passable at £11.

All said, it was a great evening. I would do it again in a second.

Access to the visitor centre on the outskirts of Stirling is 5 pounds. It provides, essentially, a lesson in Scottish history beginning with the decision of Edward I to proclaim himself overlord of Scotland, the Scottish king having unexpectedly passed away.

Scots, led by William Wallace, defied that decision at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297. Wallace would be executed in 1305 and the next year, Robert Bruce decided to overcome factional disputes by killing John Comyn, his rival for Scottish leadership. After a number of initial reverses, Bruce would use hit-and-run tactics to defeat the English and exercise control over much of Scotland. His brother was laying siege to Stirling Castle and essentially dared the English king, now Edward II, to lift the siege. Edward did come north with a far superior force and would be defeated at the Battle of Bannockburn and Bruce would eventually be recognized as king.

At the centre, you can read all that in the exhibition rooms, which also feature a number of manikin displays, or you can watch an excellent 10-minute movie that will make it all come to life. Don’t pass on the film--it makes this history lesson extremely palatable.

You can see the memorial itself for free--it’s not particularly remarkable. It is a stone circle in which there is a tall mast flying the Scottish flag. It symbolizes Bruce’s standard at the battle. Nearby, there is a large equestrian statue of Bruce in full armor. Although I didn’t find the memorial particularly moving, the centre provided a good background in Scottish history.

Built to address the evils of the jail that had preceded it, and which stood directly across the way, the Old Jail appears to be a small fortress, its blackened stone and high walls staring out ominously at the street. It was built at a time of reform when government studies began to question the wisdom of housing as many as 25 men, women and children in the same small cell. Also coming to the fore was an interest in the causes of crime and whether or not the criminal could be brought back into the general population as a useful citizen.

The 2005 price was 5.75 pounds for an adult admission and the tours are timed. Your tour group will be met at the door by an early 19th century hangman, and a vile creature he is too. He actually scared my wife, as she was chosen to be the example of the low, forlorn creature, the scum of the streets, who often ended up scourged and hanged on the town gallows before an appreciative crowd. After a clever change of dress, he became the reformer and I’ll tell you no more. It was worth the price of admission as we, the public, became inmates.

He would explain that the reform movement didn’t last long. The jail had been built in 1842 and it wasn’t that many years before the idea of teaching a man or woman how to practice a trade disappeared. In came the crank machine… an instrument of torture designed to destroy a man’s spirit, not to uplift it. Following the guided portion of the tour through some of the ground floor area, you are left on your own to go to the roof. The jail is a tall building, and from its tower, you have a good view of Stirling.

On the top floor there is a further display… a demonstration of how a present day prison works through the eyes of an inmate. It was also quite interesting. Unfortunately, the only view that you have of the ranges is through the glass walls of the elevator as you you ascend to the roof. Your descent will be on the stairs with no view of the interior of the second to fourth floors.

The building served as the town jail until 1888 when it became a military prison. On your way out, you will pass a display on the subject of military justice (An oxymoron at the time). It fell out of service in 1935 and served a variety of purposes and finally lapsed into complete disuse and ruin. Well restored today, it is a site worth visiting.

The Wallace Monument looms over the town of Bridge of Allan and is visible from many points in the Stirling area. The admission price is 6 pounds (Adult, 2005) which includes an audio guide. Wallace was, of course, one of Scotland’s greatest heroes and was immortalized in the movie "Braveheart". (In Scottish hearts, he did not need to be further immortalized… Robert Burns had already written "Scots wha hae wi Wallace bled, Scots wham Bruce has aften led, Welcome to your gory bed, Or to victorie."). Wallace was, of course, victorious at the Battle of Stirling Bridge, the beginning of the Scottish independence movement against Edward I.

Leaving the reception centre, you will proceed up a rather steep hill. It is possible to get a free shuttle to the base of the tower, and I advise that you consider it if you doubt your ability.

The tower design was decided by a competition in 1859 with construction beginning in 1861. Eight years later, after considerable criticism and a number of financial problems, it was done. Your climb up the tower is in a narrow, spiral stairway… there are 246 steps. It really isn’t bad, as there are several floors with things to see to break up the climb.

The first level houses the gift shop. The second level is your history lesson… the story of William Wallace and the Battle of Sterling Bridge. Further up is the Hall of Heroes, marble busts of Scotland’s greatest, including Burns, Scott, Livingstone and Adam Smith. On the final level you find a platform that provides marvelous views of Stirling and the surrounding countryside.

The tower climb is one of those "must do" things, and it really isn’t as difficult as it might appear at first glance.

Stirling Castle is a must-see. But on the other hand, at the risk of a pun, I found Stirling sterile; as you can see, I have really mixed feelings about it. The castle rock is a magnificent site, looming over the town, and it’s probably been fortified a number of times before the 12th century, when actual castle building seems to have started here. It has been a royal castle since that time, although much of what you’ll see is 15th century and later.

As castles go, it’s an impressive fortification and has seen its share of war – the initial phases of the wars for independence in the 13th century and Bruce’s campaign in the early 14th century. Robert Bruce saw Stirling and other castles as symbols of English oppression and razed Stirling after the battle at Bannockburn. When the English invaded some years later, they would start rebuilding the site, and from that time on, construction would continue through the 14th and 15th centuries. The castle would again see siege in 1651 by the Parliamentary army, when it was taken, and again in 1746, during the Jacobite rebellion, when the castle resisted the Stewart forces.

Entry to the castle is £8 (2005, adult), plus there’s a required £2 for parking. Guided tours leave regularly from just inside the second gate, through which you will pass. In the outer close, you will be made familiar with the construction of the castle, some of its history, and, if it’s not foggy and raining, as it was when we visited, you will be able to enjoy the views over the countryside.

Passing into the inner close, you are surrounded by the castle’s principle buildings. The Great Hall, the pale yellow building that seems to shine in the sunlight, has just passed through a 35-year renovation. For many years, it served as an army barracks and additional floors were built into its interior, but now it is restored. Originally built around 1500, it is a huge rectangular space with five massive fireplaces, a totally restored roof, and windows high in the walls hung with draperies. At one end, there is a dais with a long refectory table, but otherwise, the room is quite unornamented.

Next to the Great Hall is the Chapel Royal, which was built on the site in 1594. It features rounded windows and doors reminiscent of Renaissance Italy and is a large space, but again, there is little to see here. The new timber ceiling with its modern lighting has a more modern Scandinavian feel to it than anything else. Next to it, in the King’s Old Building, which was late 15th century and badly damaged by fire in 1855, you will find the museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. As regimental museums go, this is a good one.

Finally, in the Inner Close, there is the Palace, built by James V in the 16th century. It is in the process of a full archeological restoration and has been stripped to bare stone. When its reconstruction is done, it will be redone to the time of its original construction and be furnished.

There is more to see… the kitchens have been redone well and there are gun batteries and some displays, but as I said, the major parts of the castle are a bit sterile, rather bare.

Your ticket to the castle includes admission to Argyll’s Lodgings, just down the street. I recommend you go. It is the 17th-century home of Archibald, the ninth Earl of Argyll. You will see a number of furnished rooms, and it’s worth the small amount of time that it will take.

Stirling is an admirable location for daytrips. It’s about 30 miles from Perth and Glasgow and even closer to the National Park at Loch Lomond. We chose to set out on a little loop that would feature some interesting historical sites, a bit of Scottish life and some beautiful scenery.

Dunblane is only about 4 miles away and the town features a magnificent early 14th century cathedral. You will see a building that I considered truly wonderful and in a fine state of repair. It has had its ups-and-downs through the years; for example, the nave had no roof for 300 years although the chancel continued to be used for services. Nevertheless, the stonework is largely original and the 129 foot-long nave now features a handsome barrel-vaulted ceiling with armorial bosses. In fact, the Victorians did a lot of renovation during the 1890’s, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

As cathedrals go, it is interesting in that it has no transepts. Apparently the footings were placed for them, but the initial construction ended during a period of plague, so the transepts may simply have been put on hold (forever). In the choir, you will see 19th century stalls and a new organ with a majestic case. The effect is excellent. There is a poignant touch in the brasses in the floor of the chancel. They mark the resting place of Margaret, Euphemia and Sybilla, the daughters of John 1st, Lord Drummond. The three were poisoned by members of the nobility to prevent the marriage of Margaret to James IV. The nobles wanted their king to marry Princess Margaret of England. The setting in which they rest is beautiful… in the apse there is one large Gothic window, gifted to the cathedral in 1915 and along one wall of the chancel there are 6 more relatively new stained glass windows. The grave site of the three sisters is not the most touching point in the building. In the nave, a simple engraved stone commemorates the deaths of 16 Dunblane five and six-year-old schoolchildren and their teacher at the hands of a gunman in 1996. It is hard to believe that such a horrible thing could have happened in such a peaceful town.

Down the road, in Doune, you will find Doune Castle, which was built around the same time as the cathedral. Built by Robert Stewart, Lord Albany (the second son of Robert II), it has none of the beauty and little of the interest of the building just visited. A Historic Scotland property (admission, 2005 was 3.50 pounds), it is a shell with some of the rooms intact and bare. You can see the great hall, the kitchen and some private rooms, but only the inner hall, with its late medieval style paneling and two fireplaces is recognizable as a room that would still have some use today.

More interesting than the castle is the Scottish Antiques and Arts Centre, just on the other side of Doune. I quite enjoyed our exploration in the two halls in which a great number of dealers have set up displays of their wares. There is furniture, coins, china, militaria, crystal and commemorative items (the full gamut). There is also a restaurant on the property. A little further down the road is the town of Callendar, the doorway to the Trossachs and Loch Lomond Park. We passed by the Rob Roy exhibit at the information centre in the middle of the town, opting to visit instead one of the two woolen shops on the edge of the town, The Trossachs Mill Store. Unfortunately, their weaving exhibition was closed and apart from a shop that carried most of the same items that one sees in such stores all over this part of Scotland, the only interesting sight was that of Hamish, the Highland bull, weighing in at over one ton with a horn spread of over 36 inches. Hamish is accustomed to visitors and doesn’t mind having his picture taken.

From Callendar to Aberfoyle, the road runs through the park. The scenery is just incredible with lochs and mountains. At Aberfoyle, it seems that everyone visits the Scottish Wool Centre. Part of it is the same shirts, sweaters and jackets that you’ve seen everywhere else at the same prices, but it does have its attractions. The gift shop also includes a selection of whiskeys, Scottish beers and foods as well. There is also a large cafeteria, but most of all, it’s about the Border Collie. On Fridays, you can watch border collie trials and during the rest of the week there is a half-hour show in the theatre featuring a number of the dogs. The routine is both fun and funny and children and adults alike will enjoy it… a chance to get up close and friendly with a number of the working dogs. The cost of the show is 2.50 pounds; we thought it was worth it.

This trip took us between five and six hours, and if we’d stopped at the Rob Roy centre in Callendar, it would have put us closer to seven, but as my wife said, "You don’t get a sense of what Scotland is really like in the cities. This was a really good day."