Fortnight in Japan

Quick Tips:

1) A good guide book will help considerably in planning your holiday, we found the Rough Guide excellent. There's all the information you'd need on accommodation, the culture, places to visit, where to get info, etc. In the pages we learnt about Japan Goodwill Guides - volunteer guides based in main cities who will spend a day with you showing you the main sights - highly recommended.

2) Before our holiday almost everyone we told that we were off to Japan made a near identical statement, that we would find Japan the most foreign and strange place we had ever been to. Having now visited, although Japan is certainly different I would completely disagree if I spoke or read Japanese. Things are different, but I think language places a huge part in mystifying everything. The Japanese are extremely helpful and while it is not essential to know Japanese, I would really recommend that anyone take some time to learn even a few words and phrases - it would have enhanced our trip no end.

Best Way To Get Around:

We stayed for just 1 night in the New Station Hotel. We booked directly with the hotel by email and found them really helpful. They gave us all sorts of information about the bus from Matsumoto to Takayama, etc., before we arrived. The location was ideal, only a couple of minutes from the train station. Reception was helpful and friendly. We cannot comment on the food, as we did not eat in the hotel, but there was a restaurant available had we wanted to use it.

The triple room was very reasonably priced, about 14000 yen, £70, between the three of us for the night. It was plenty big and comfortable, with an en-suite bathroom and a large window with a good view of the city. Although right next to the railway line, we didn't hear a sound from the trains during the night. The customary "nightware" and coffeemaking facilities were provided, and there was even tea-making equipment built into the table. Matsumoto castle was within easy walking distance (less than 30 minutes), and the shops and central area were again very handy.

Between the three of us, we had two adjoining rooms on the first floor, one for our futons and one for the living room, and both were large spacious and nicely decorated, very Japanese. There was a shared wash basin and WC on the outside landing.

The shower room was on the ground floor, and a boiling Japanese hot tub was available, but untried (we would have cooked I think). Taking a shower was a risky experience unless you are an exhibitionist, as the uncovered large windows looked out on a pathway used by many people en route to the cable car, so timing is critical.

Breakfast was great, with toast, scrambled eggs, and coffee or tea. P> Dinner was very Japanese: sashimi (raw fish) ruled, and there were noodles, soup, and rice. Unfortunately, Tom and I ate the decoration (chrysanthemum), thinking that we were supposed to (it was like eating perfume!). The owner was a Japanese grandmother with a very strong character and few words of English, but she was very hospitable and entertaining. But woe betide you if you were late for a meal!

The accommodation is in the middle of the park above the village, and walking to the village was pleasant and took about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, there is a 9pm curfew at the Momiji-so, which we were not aware of. There was very little time to get to the village and back after dinner.

The accommodation was reasonable for the area, but be careful, as the charges added to the bill for drinks are pretty high. Luckily we didn't have many.

We very much enjoyed our stay in Takayama, where we spent 3 nights at the Rickshaw Inn. The inn is on a side street off the main shopping street in Takayama, only a stone's throw from the station, markets, and river (well, a 15-minute walk).

We stayed in Japanese-style rooms, our first taste of non-European accommodation. We found the rooms comfortable, but considering the room the three of us stayed in was intended for four people, space was limited. There was very little room for anything other than our mattresses. However, staying here made us feel like we were doing things the more traditional way.

Footwear had to be removed when entering the building and replaced with slippers provided. There were three types of slippers, outdoor ones, indoor communal-area ones (not to be worn in the bedrooms), and ones especially for the WC. I must admit that I did at one time find myself walking in the corridor with the WC slippers. Fortunately, I managed to backtrack and swap them undetected, but did feel very naughty.

You could book breakfast (which was coffee/tea rolls, cereal, and boiled eggs) for a couple of pounds extra, served in the communal lounge. There were a selection of books available in the lounge, and a laptop for Internet access could be hired from reception. There was a laundrette in the basement, but it was popular, with only one machine and dryer, so timing was paramount. All in all, the inn was comfortable, reasonable, and central for all the main sights in Takayama.

We booked this hotel through Japan-Hotel.net, a reasonable business hotel in the central area of Tokyo, about 15 minutes' walk from Tokyo station. We stayed in a triple room, which cost about 15000 yen per night between the three of us. This was our first night in Japan. The room was of a reasonable size; of course, the extra bed reduced the amount of space. The hotel was being refurbished with new bathrooms while we were there. Our bathroom had already been renewed. It was strange. A PVC capsule with a WC with a heated plastic seat. The shower was good. The nightdresses provided were excellent; we even got Tom to wear his.

The pillows were unlike those at home. The Japanese must like firm pillows, as they were feather with a type of wooden ball massage lining on one side. You could choose to have the feathers or the wood up (I'm not sure which way they were supposed to go but opted for the feathers). Very solid. The quilts were again duck down. Really luxurious and very warm and cosy indeed. There were coffee/tea making facilities in the room. We did not eat in the hotel but there was a small restaurant next to reception, we did have coffee there, but that was it, but the prices in the hotel were not expensive.

Next door to the hotel was a Japanese coffee bar which was really reasonable. The hotel was situated in the middle of the business district. Early morning saw rush hour with suited Japanese workers exited from the nearby underground station in their droves. The area was amazingly quiet though. Not much traffic, lots of parked bicycles, but not many actually being used. We found we could get around the city well enough from the hotel, especially with Tokyo station being so handy. A reasonable economy hotel. We enjoyed our stay.

We only spent one night in Matsumoto but it was certainly worth it. The journey direct by train from Tokyo took about 2½ hours, the time passed quickly enough with some spectacular mountain scenery on the way, including a view of Mt Fuji in the distance. Arriving at the mountain plain was quite a shock, purely because I wasn't expecting it to be so vast, surrounded on all sides by mountain ranges, some topped with snow even in May. It reminded me a little of the central plain in Peru when we visited Lake Titicaca. It didn’t take long for the train to wend its way across the plain to Matsumoto which looked a fairly ugly city and a bit of a disappointment at first sight. It turned out to be one of the cleanest, and in many areas one of the prettiest.

The locals obviously take great pride in the appearance of their home town, apparently pensioners get up early to ensure the streets are clean and litter free (they do a fantastic job), flowers and hanging baskets abound, and there are numerous historic and traditional buildings to admire. We stayed at the New Station Hotel which is a minute or two from the station, very close to the centre of town, about 10 minutes from the river and half an hour or so from the castle. Nothing seemed too far away in Matsumoto. The highlight of Matsumoto has to be the castle and we spent our afternoon going there, exploring the small market just over the river along "Frog Street," and the suburb streets on the way to the castle. Not much to view in the this area but we came across several artisan workshops and a good and reasonable French bistro (where we had a good meal on our way back).

We began to believe the castle must be tiny as we couldn’t see it from so close, then suddenly there it was, tall, dark and impressive surrounded of course by a large moat and a pleasant public garden. As soon as we entered the castle grounds we were welcomed by an English speaking guide who took us under her wing and escorted us through the castle explaining much about its history (shoes have to be removed). Inside the castle each of the six floors were open areas of polished dark wood, empty apart from occasional display areas showing off weapons, armour and clothing used through the castles long history, and the steep wooden stairs and steps leading to the next floor. From inside it seemed huge, and I was amazed just how far could be seen from the small windows and loopholes, right across the plain to the surrounding mountains.

Although the oldest castle, much is not original, but restored after a fire—but everything appears authentic enough! The following day we travelled by bus across the mountains to Takayama, that truly was a spectacular journey. Guide books from the tourist office as well as the rough guide give lots of info on places to visit in the general area of Matsumoto reachable by bus or train, having only 1 day we didn’t have time for such exploration, but for anyone staying longer there would be plenty to see and do.

We had read in the rough guide that Goodwill Guides are available in many cities offering voluntary services showing visitors around their city.  I think this is a great idea, a shame we do not offer something similar here.  Before going, we hunted to find one for Tokyo and Kyoto. As we were not organised and left things rather late, many organisations had none free, but we had success with Tokyo-Edo Goodwill Guides Club (edogoodwill@yahoo.co.jp), and received an email from Kunie who arranged to meet us at our hotel on our second full day in Tokyo. 

As this was our first visit we left it to Kunie to set our itinerary, we had been outside the city to Hakone on the previous day and only visited Ginza and around Tokyo station.  Kunie was brilliant, spoke excellent English and told us lots about the Japanese way of life generally as well as about Tokyo.  Our schedule was to visit the fish market first, then on to a famous shrine, the royal palace (or outside of it), a typical lunch at an inn, Senso-ji in Asakusa, a boat trip from Asakusa back to the port and Tokyo.  We took things fairly leisurely but made it all, except for the tower.  The royal palace was the most disappointing—the open area surrounding the palace is like a huge empty gravel car park, the gardens were fine, but rather left to their own devises.  The highlight was definitely the visit to Asakusa.  The avenue leading up to the temple was buzzing with activity, with lots of colorful stalls and shops.  Kunie showed us how we should cleanse ourselves at the fountain before going to the temple itself (I have forgotten the routine, but something like pour water over each hand then into the mouth). 

Before praying, you clap twice, bow, and clap to ensure the gods are aware of your presence before you start. Passing through the outside food stalls on the way to the fish market Kunie explained a lot about the food (I misunderstood and thought she told us they eat chrysanths, and did actually eat one later, but when I emailed her after she laughed and advised a few petals are used for flavouring in cooking only). The following day we had planned to take the train to Nikko, as there was a festival taking place. We enjoyed Kunie's company so much, and had a great time, so she decided to come there with us. This was an added bonus as she explained much of the festivities to us.  It is definitely worth arranging a guide, Kunie got 'lost' in the stations a couple of times, so I'm sure we would have struggled much more without her. She told us so much about her life, Shinto and so on it made the holiday far more interesting.