My first stop in Laos was its capital, Vientiane. The pate sandwiches were delectable and almost exerted enough force on my tastebuds to keep me planted beside the capital’s dusty streets, but I had no idea how I would fall in love with the country until I headed outside the city limits.
The dreaded Route 13, home to many a highway bandit and not a single guardrail, slithers and winds and double-backs its way from Vientiane to the no-frills vacation destination of Vang Vien. This little village seems like a tiny backwater at first, but it is actually more of a haven for all those backpackers who just couldn’t stand Koh Pha Ngan for another minute.
If one ignores the miniscule ‘main street’ with its line of restaurants showing a continuous string of "Friends" episode, Vang Vien will reveal itself as place of stunning natural beauty. The mountains rise spectacularly from the river and the oppressive heat and humidity means the best thing to do in the afternoon is sit by the riverside with a nice big BeerLao, admiring the scenery. Vang Vien, like the rest of Laos, is a place of simple pleasures.
Quick Tips:
Stay on the river if you can, it's definitely worth the extra kip to wake up to that view every morning. Even if it seems too touristy and cheesy, you absolutely have to do the river rafting (it's probably the only reason you're going to Vang Vien in the first place). When you are rafting, though, try not to drink too much, and get out of the water the second it starts raining, believe me!
Another great thing to do is visit the organic farm, which is just outside town; the mulberry shakes and the fried mulberry leaves are insanely good!
There’s a cool local club in the village, near all the restaurants. It stays open later than everywhere else and serves buckets with lao-lao and red bull. The local guys get a kick out of seeing travelers in there and they’re always very friendly.
Lastly, even if all the other backpackers are doing it, don't go hiking in the middle of the day; the temperature is upwards of 105 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and there's a reason why none of the locals are outside at high noon. Try to get up early and do it in the morning.
Best Way To Get Around:
Walking is definitely the best way to get around, unless you want to go to the organic farm. In that case, there are tuk-tuks around that can take you. It's also very easy to rent a bicycle.