Honeymoon at the Bitter End Yacht Club

For sailors, the BVI is a Disneyland -- ideal and consistent winds with easy navigation and short distances between anchorages. Civilization is never far away, and the BVIs cater to visitors.

Quick Tips:

We stayed at the Bitter End Yacht Club for our honeymoon during the last week of March. It was the last week before the prices go down for the summer – however, it was probably also the last week without summer squalls and too many bugs. I've read quite a few reviews that describe the overbearingly hot weather and mosquitos in the summer that make enjoying the outdoors somewhat less pleasurable.

Taking advantage of all that the resort had to offer, we opted for the yacht-villa combo, which allowed us to try out both shoreside accommotions and charter a Freedom 30 sailboat.

Best Way To Get Around:

I would recommend flying into Beef Island airport on Tortola – from there, it is one ferry ride to the resort. I believe most flights to this destination connect through Puerto Rico.

We flew into St. Thomas after a connecting flight through Atlanta from West Palm Beach, and from there we took 1)a taxi to the ferry dock, 2)a ferry to Tortola, 3) another taxi to Beef Island airport, and 4) another ferry to Bitter End at Virgin Gorda. The return journey was worse, as it was a Sunday and we had to transfer to yet another ferry on Tortola, the "Bomba Charger" -- a converted fishing boat which had used airplane seats for inside seating. We rafted up to this ferry for the transfer, and they tossed luggage from one boat to be piled atop the other's bow. I thought, "Okay, whose suitcase is going overboard?" It is indeed an adventure traveling around the islands.

Probably best to avoid traveling on a Sunday, as fewer ferries are running.

Our first 3 nights we stayed in the North Sound Suites, which are due to be turned into condos next year. Although they were clearly not new, everything was in good shape and the villa was wonderfully spacious. I especially liked the enormous shower that was screened in but outside the air-conditioned space of the room. Our deck commanded an awesome view overlooking North Sound and dozens of anchored boats. At night, it looked like a little city out there with all of the boat lights – very romantic. Although the suites are up steep roads (reminiscent of Switzerland) and then up flights of steps, we often opted to call for a golf-cart "taxi" up and down. The staff always responded right away, and we enjoyed this luxury. You don’t even have to worry about tipping – it’s all included in your resort price already.

We had the "honeymoon" package – just like the Admirals package, which is the same price and includes everything on the resort -- but additionally included a sunset photograph (which we enjoyed posing for and were not pressured to buy additional photos), as well as a fridge full of champagne, OJ, and soft drinks. It certainly made for a nice welcome on our first trip to the resort.

The next 2 nights were spent on the Freedom 30 sailboat, exploring the islands (see "Sailing" entry). After staying on a rolly boat for 2 nights, it was felt like absolute luxury to sleep in a bed and take a real shower.

Our last accommodation at the resort was one of the beachfront villas. This was by far our best, and the one I would highly recommend. We had one of the newly renovated units, painted with bright colors and filled with decorative and functional items. Nice patio furniture on the wraparound porch and a hammock enticed you to hang out outside to drink in the view, although you could see it from any point in the room. You could even look out at the ocean as you showered.

At night, dim lights just barely illuminated the stairs and walkways along the beach, creating a romantic ambience and not interfering with the curtain of stars overhead.

Each day you had to make a reservation for dinner so that they could adequately serve all of their guests without seeming overwhelmed. If you are on the all-inclusive Admiral's Package, you do not pay extra for your meals. Alcoholic beverages were extra, although there was a make-your-own-mimosa station at the breakfast buffet and rum grog available at lunch.

The meals in the main restaurant alternated between regular order-off-the-menu dinners inside and sumptuous buffets served outside on the adjoining Almond Walk by the beach lit with tiki torches. They must have known it was our honeymoon, because every night the staff seated us by or overlooking the water without our having to ask. The food was good, although the only dish that truly stood out was the grilled lobster (you have to pay a little extra, but it is so worth it). Being from Florida, we are used to Caribbean lobster, but I had never had a whole one (not just the tail) sliced in half and grilled. And it was huge! Note: Even if you get an all-inclusive package, you still get a check to sign after your dinner. This is not added onto your bill, so don’t fear looking at that amount that you’re "paying." You also do not have to add a gratuity, since you already paid it with your all-inclusive package.

One evening we had dinner at one restaurant on the resort that is only open once a week (odd, but whatever). Although the food was similar to what was served in the other restaurant, the setting and service seemed especially elegant. And the setting was different: rather than being at water level, directly by the beach, we were higher up the hill and overlooking the anchorage on the other side of the resort. It was also an open-air building, and we were seated directly on the edge, with the best view: big yachts that lit up as the night fell. Incredibly romantic!

To say that it is fabulous sailing here is an understatement. However, sleeping aboard a monohull in most of these semi-protected anchorages is anything but. That said, if we had to do it all over again, we would have chartered the sailboat for just a day sail and stayed in the beautiful (and comfortable) accommodations on shore.

However, our 3-day trip on this 30-foot sailboat was by far the biggest part of our adventure. Since food is included as part of our on-land accommodations, so was provisioning for the sea portion of our trip. The resort staff gave us free reign in the marina store to get whatever provisions we wanted (of course, we snatched up four lobster tails in addition to brie, steaks, fresh veggies, and fruit).

We were a bit disappointed with the condition of the boat. Although all of the sails and rigging were in good shape and she sailed wonderfully, the creature comforts of the boat left something to be desired. The bimini was tenuously held on with hree crusty straps (and had to be put down to barbeque or when hoisting the main sail). The v-berth was too small for two people (hey, this was our honeymoon!) and the aft cabin smelled like diesel. All combined with the creaks and clangs that came with an older boat (and we realized that no anchorage was fully protected from some ocean swells) made for very uncomfortable sleeping. At least there were no bugs! Also, there was no navigational equipment: no depth finder, binoculars, GPS, or hand-held compass. And no cruising guides. We had to ask for a chart. If you sail, be sure to bring your own stuff!!

Sailing the 3 days was spectacular, and as long as we were able to find mooring buoys, it was easy and convenient to find a place for the night. And it was cool finding ourselves at secluded islands that also had a restaurant, bar, and boutique! Of course, we insisted on cooking our own dinners on the charcoal barbeque provided, but did go ashore in our dinghy for dessert. The dinghy with outboard came with the sailboat package, and was very handy and fun.

As part of our resort package, we took the free Sailing 101 class, taught by young, friendly, and knowledgeable staff. It was very helpful to review and learn new things. This is how we found out about the special Hobie Cat Tour, an extra excursion that had an additional cost.

Here was the advantage: anyone can take the free Hobie Cats within the restricted confines of North Sound, but with this tour, we were able to go through a break in Eustacia Reef and sail all around Necker Island. Our "tour guide," a young sailing instructor, drove a Boston Whaler and herded us like ducklings in the right direction, supplying us with whatever drinks we wanted (water, soda, beer, and champagne) along the way. We met up on Prickly Pear Island for lunch. It was fabulous getting outside the protection of islands and into the "open" ocean, yet with the security of our guide. It was definitely worth the extra money!

During our last days, we tried to fit in as much as possible. We hiked up Guy’s Trail, a rigorous climb up to the top of the island above the resort that yielded truly spectacular views, and enjoyed a plunge in the pool at the trail’s end.

It is not for the meek or out-of-shape. BRING A BOTTLE OF WATER AND A HAT. It is hot up there, and the exertion takes a lot out of you. Also, go early in the morning, before it is too hot. Bring your camera – there are incredible views of the small islands around and that amazing blue-green water.

Wear your bathing suit under your clothes -- the trail descends to the pool, a welcomed refreshment!