County Tyrone, N. Ireland

The Ulster American Folk Park is so unique for what it is, an attempt at being a tourist trap. Fortunately, it is too quaint and delightful to be regarded in such shallow terms.

The Folk Park gave me insight into what my Irish ancestors went through before and after they emigrated. This knowledge intensified my experiences upon meeting my faraway distant relatives, the purpose of my trip.

Oh, and, after returning home and developing my film, seeing a ghost in one of the pictures (taken in a graveyard while sitting on a family plot with distant relatives) was cool too. (See entry Catching a Ghost.)

Quick Tips:

There is a tourist office in Omagh, which is just like the tourist offices in regular Ireland, posted similarly. They will change money for you, have B&B info, reservation services, the same facilities. Have Northern Ireland money already on hand though, the office is next to a pay car park.

Best Way To Get Around:

Once again, you need a car to go where you want, but note that Omagh, the main town around here, is really rough on the non-european driver.

The entire city is one giant roundabout. If you miss a turn, you'll go around and around in this large crowded town, full of one-way streets, until you finally find your way out. And, you must go through town to "stay on" any of the area highways. In old Ireland, that's how it was, all the main roads went through the village. Just lately, because of the impact of tourism, they have started building highways that bypass the towns. Anyway, Omagh hasn't done this yet.

On the positive side, once you are in the countryside, the roads are less crowded and signs stand out clearly in the rural terrain. It you need to, its easy to just pull over anywhere and look at your map. This is your reward for making it through Omagh.

I stayed at Mullaghslin House, near Carrickmore, the place where my family came from. The house is modern and, in the guest area part, they have three rooms which are brand spanking new! I felt like only one of a few who had stayed there.

In Ireland, and it seems Northern Ireland, there is a tax break if you turn your home into a B&B. I assume that is why so many regular houses are also B&Bs and your room is so new looking, they aren''t bothered if not many stay there, as long as they get the tax break. The owners are so completely gracious though, and seem happy to get to know their guests, going out of their way to do what they can to make sure your stay is all it can be.

The owners at Mullaghslin House, Frank and, I think her name was, Brita Nugent were particularly gracious. They got out the phone book, first thing when I got there, and started dialing trying to get ahold of people who shared my last name.

I was treated very well by the Nugents at Mullaghslin House, with the wonderful breakfasts, teas and hospitality. While I was there, they even invited me to a party they threw.

Yes, there is a McDonald's in the area. Genealogy has become big business and touristry in County Tyrone has soared. As such, I am sure I share my sentiments about the McDonald's there with quite a few people.

What a haven. In the very crowded and kind of dirty town of Omagh, for those going to McDonald's, there was no parking problems and it was easy to get to, being right off a main artery into town. When I first saw those familiar golden arches, I actually let out a sigh of relief. And the promise of finding all the usual entrees (including happy meals) and, most importantly, a clean bathroom, was fulfilled!

The McDonald's there was a classic representation of why it feels so good to be traveling in a foreign country and see a McDonald's. I recommend this one highly.

Wow - what a typical pub. This was the most authentic Irish pub I found. The bar had just the right amount of locals standing around making just the right amount of local Irish men standing at the bar noise. The women came in groups for lunch and were mostly older, dressed conservatively. They sat at the tables off to the right, in front and a bit away from the bar. Off to the left, well in front of the bar, I sat in a half booth on a raised alcove that surrounded the fireplace.

The ambience was just right for my usual, a ham and cheese sandwich with tea. It was a perfect Irish lunch experience. And, for dinner or just a drink, being like the only place in town, town being like only one street, it is the place where everyone seemed to go.

It seems many ambitious, well-known people come from the sturdy stock of Irish that populated this particular area, perhaps the reason for it being, like, genealogy central, a place where people are proud to find their roots.

At the Ulster American Folk Park, these people are reminded that they share their homeland with greats such as Thomas Mellon (his son, Andrew, went on to become the richest man in the world) and Presidents Clinton, Woodrow Wilson and Ulysses S. Grant, who have roots or came directly from County Tyrone.

Most of those showcased throughout the Park went on to become quite wealthy. Sponsorship from their descendents helped to create this complete village that is as authentic as it can possibly be. No expense was spared as the homes of great men were moved and rebuilt piece by piece from their original location - including America - to be placed in the Park. The only home that started life in the Park is that of the aforementioned Mellon. It was around his boyhood home that the Park was created. All the buildings represent some important place that, when grouped together, tell the whole story of Irish emigration.

Hours seem to drift by as I walked through the Park following the little map they give you. I strolled down a country road wondering what would be revealed around the next corner. Perhaps a stone cottage with a woman seated out front working a spinning wheel. Perhaps a downtown street in 1850 where I would enter the travel office and go down to the dock, going inside of a boat to see the bunk that a family of five would call their home for their trip to another country. Perhaps the kitchen of a farmhouse where the woman baking the authentic country bread would offer me a piece. Perhaps a bog where I could jump up and down, watching it spring back from under my feet.

There was the river house, many other stone houses, a Victorian house, a ranch house along with barns, bogs, gardens, all types of stores, post offices, I could go on and on. It was a very full and satisfying day.

So many are traveling to far off countries in search of their roots. I decided to give it a try and realized, by meeting my long-distance relatives, what the draw was and now, like so many others, I am hooked on "genealogy travel."

Meeting my Irish cousins, albeit at least fourth generation, was a most unique, enriching experience. I was treated like family while being shown around the "family" lands, which had hosted my ancestors for centuries.

I was in a state of amazement throughout my stay. Before my trip, I thought having a family meant what I had, a mom and a sister, and my heritage was growing up in a tract house in Southern California. Now, along with some uncanny similarities I share with my sudden, huge, extended family, I found that I have an ancestor who is up for sainthood and I have a piece of rock from the house where he lived - 500 years ago!

Thinking of it now, it was more like I was in a state of shock than amazement, a real wake up call to all that is still out there waiting to be discovered, which is what a good travel experience will do for you. I would definitely recommend such a "genealogy excursion" to anyone.

At St. Columcille's/Dean Brian McGuirc Church, they have an outdoor mass once a year, in August. I happened to be there at that time and was able to meet relatives I may never have met because of it.

With all the religious conflict in No. Ireland, you would think everyone goes to church regularly. Perhaps this is so with the older folks, but the younger to middle-aged, I found, were not such diehards. This mass was only about an hour, with people casually dressed, lounging on the graves of loved ones listening to the mass through loud speakers set up especially for the occassion. Thus, if anyone was ever going to attend mass, even just once a year, this was it, and I caught them while they were there. I scored lots of family photos and met most of them.

Aside from that, the mass was a lovely way to spend the afternoon and I believe lots of other towns have instigated something similar. It would be an easy inquiry, as this seemed to be a well-known event. The concept began as a way to get people to start cleaning up the graves of their deceased family members - and it worked, at least in Carrickmore.

From what I am told, the church cemetery there, in Carrickmore, where I attended services, used to be very rundown with no regard for public upkeep. After family members put someone in a grave, in effect, they said, "See ya!" Now, the place is absolutely beautiful - a perfect spot to sit and admire the view surrounded by the spirit of those so obviously loved and well cared for.