Tibet: Almost Heaven or Hell?

We spent a gruelling 12 days traversing the outskirts of Lhasa on a mini-bus visiting the Holy lakes, temples, and monasteries of Shigatse, Nyingchi, Namtso, Yangbajin, Basong, and Zedang. In the 12 days, we experienced snow in the middle of summer, was almost blown off the cliff at the highest point of Namtso and was lucky to catch a glimpse of the Tibetan horse festival.

The highlight for me was the sky burial at Drigung Thel Monastery. This is the highest form of Tibetan burial reserved only for nobles and kings. Other memorable moments include our first glimpse of the Himalayan peaks through the small window of our aircraft, freezing in the tent at Namtso lake, searching for wild mushrooms off Basomtso--the list goes on. Alas, the Chinese are bent on modernising Tibet at the expense of the people and the land. The real Tibet is fast disappearing even as the Chinese lay the final railway tracks that links Beijing to Lhasa.

Quick Tips:

Bring your own medication. Pharmacies are available only in the larger towns like Lhasa, Zedang and Shigatse.

Be patient and expect delays, Tibetans move according to their clock.

There is a charge levied on cameras, usually 10 yuan for compact cameras, triple the amount for video cameras for photography in temples and monasteries.

Carry pens and notebooks or packets of biscuits, sweets always. Children appear out of nowhere and welcome anything the visitor has to give.

What to pack:
Be prepared for extreme weather. Chose clothing that are wind and water resistant. Think layering.

Chose hard-shell suitcases or hand carry whenever possible. Our samsonite luggage barely survived the rough handling.

Bring lots of tissue and wet wipes. Public toilets have no water.

Good walking shoes are important. Even if you do not intend to hike, monasteries and temples can only be reached after a brief hike up slopes or stairs. These are enough to wear out any pair of shoes (not to mention the wearer).

For more details, go HERE

Best Way To Get Around:

In Lhasa, if you are traveling in groups of 4, the taxi is the best way to go. A flat rate of 10 yuan is charged regardless of distance (so long as it is within Lhasa). If you are adventurous, try the trishaw but be prepared to pay a little more. Although charges are supposed to be between 3 to 6 yuan, you might be asked to pay more (tourists’ rate).

When traveling to the outskirts, a land cruiser or a 4 wheel drive is the ideal way to move around. Road conditions appear seemingly smooth and safe in most parts but may be treacherous depending on weather conditions.

This 13th-storey building is the symbol of Tibet, past, present, and future. Depicted in films as a mystical building atop a misty, remote mountain in Shangrila or some faraway isolated utopian country, this was the image many of us carried with us.

In reality, Potala Palace, set atop Mount Marpori, was once the winter residence for Dalai Lamas and the seat of Tibetan government. It dates back to the 7th century AD to the reign of Songtsen Gampo and was extended by the fifth Dalai Lama in the 17th century to its present size. It is also a major pilgrimage site for devout Tibetans. The palace is divided into two, the red and white palaces. Once considered the tallest building in the world, it can be viewed from Jokhang’s roofs, Sera monastery, and in fact, from anywhere in downtown Lhasa.

We entered by the Western staircase that led us into the Western courtyard and the Namgyel Monastery. Climbing the path leading to the palace was reminiscent of climbing the Great Wall in Beijing—or a 30-minute workout on the treadmill. We were breathless by the time we arrived. The tour of the palace rooms was a blur as we began from the topmost level and gradually made our way down through narrow stairways. The dimly lit rooms opened to public housed statues of Buddha, Buddhist relics, and impressive golden stupas encrusted with precious stones of past Dalai Lamas. At the time of our visit, a crew of workers was busy tamping down the roof. The rhythmic pounding and singing enlivened the otherwise solemn atmosphere.

The tour ended in what was formerly the Dalai Lama's reception room for guests in the red palace. We took a short rest to catch our breath before walking back to the entrance (fortunately downhill this time).

We no longer view the Potala palace as a mysterious, isolated retreat. The palace now overlooks a spacious road that receives traffic from all directions. Directly opposite the palace is a large Chinese park and monument, as if to remind all that Tibet is now under Chinese rule. As a result of the road and construction of a stage at Potala square (for the coming 40th celebration of Tibet gaining the autonomous status), it was difficult to get the classic shot of the Palace in its entirety. Hopefully, the stage would only be a temporary fixture.

Admission:
Adults- 100RMB limited to the first 1,500 visitors per day. Tourists and pilgrims jostle outside the ticket booth for up to 2 hours the day before just to secure an entry ticket for the following day.
Opening times:
9am to noon and 3 to 5pm
How to get there:
Take a taxi (fixed fare of 10RMB) or hail a trishaw. You won't get lost.

This is the holiest and most sacred site in Tibet where devout Buddhists make their pilgrimage, sometimes performing prostration (3 steps, 1 prostration) throughout their journey. It is said that pilgrims may take as long as 17 years to complete their pilgrimage on foot.

Songtsen Gampo built this temple during his reign in the 7th century. Located in the heart of old Lhasa, the site of the Temple was once a lake. It houses one of the 2 rare Buddha statues Princess Wenchang had brought over from China, the latter credited for introducing Buddhism into Tibet. The temple was further expanded under the rule of the 5th Dalai Lama. Today, the temple houses other precious and sacred relics. This website explains more.

We visited the temple in the late morning. Walking across Barkhor square, we joined the pilgrims and other tourists making their way to the temple. The heavy scent of burning cypress by pilgrims to convey their prayers and wishes permeated the air. We were greeted with chaos as pilgrims performed prostration outside the gate and tourists jostled alongside to enter the temple. There were 2 queues, one for pilgrims and one for tourists with an official controlling who and how many enter at each time. While the line for tourists seemed to be moving smoothly, the same cannot be said for the pilgrims carrying heavy thermos flasks filled with yak oil and spinning hand held prayer wheels while chanting Buddhist scriptures.

The dimly lit temple was packed inside with guides competing to relate the history of the temple to the respective tourists, visitors shouting for each other in the dark and pilgrims chanting. We could hardly see or hear due to the crowd and the scent of butter oil and incense was overwhelming. I felt claustrophobic and left halfway in disgust, clearly the guides and visitors had little respect for this holy place.

I headed for the roof (as instructed by my guide) taking the stairs located just next to the ticket booth. There, the crowd has thinned out and I was able to explore the place at leisure. From the roof, we could see the Potala palace glimmering in the sun and in the immediate vicinity, Barkhor square with pilgrims slowly circling the temple while spinning hand held prayer wheels.

Admission Fee: 70RMB
Opening Hours: 9 to 4pm
How to get there: Take a taxi or trishaw to Barkhor square, follow the pilgrims from there.

Drepung Monastery is considered one of the largest monasteries in Tibet and was once a political seat of the Dalai Lamas. Founded in 1416 by Jamyang Choje, most of the buildings remained unscathed and dates back to the 17th-18th century. The monastery consists of the Central Assembly Hall (Tsochin Lhakang), the Ganden Palace (Ganden Podrang), seven colleges (Tratsang) and various residential units (Khangtsang).

We set out on foot to climb the slopes leading to the monastery, taking in the lovely views of the valley enroute but were fortunate to hitch a ride from a passing shuttle bus that brought us to the ticket booth just before the monastery. From there, we climbed another gentle slope up to the Gandan Podrang, passing pilgrims performing their circumambulation.

Our tour began in Gandan Podrang, the residence of the Dalai Lamas prior to the construction of the Potala Palace. From there, we climbed a fleet of steep stairs towards the central courtyard, the site of religious dances and the Drepung Yoghurt festival. A group of monks from elsewhere Tibet and pilgrims were performing prostration in the central courtyard before the Central Assembly Hall.

From there, we were led to the kitchen located next to the Central Assembly Hall to observe monks preparing food in enormous sized pots to feed the few hundreds that resided in the monastery. Several novice monks outside the Central Assembly Hall entrance were also busy peeling and chopping baskets of potatoes on an extremely huge chopping board. In the Central Assembly Hall were more monks chanting and studying the scriptures. The atmosphere was of quiet thought, a sharp contrast from Jokhang Temple.

Go here for more details.

Admission Fee: 30RMB.
Opening Hours: 9-12noon
How to get there: By taxi, it’s the cheapest and fastest way. At the foot of the monastery, transfer to a shuttle bus that charges 2 RMB pp (the only transport allowed due to road repairs), or take a slow 30min to an hour hike up the hill.

NB: Jokhang Temple and Drepung monastery issues CD-rom souvenir tickets which contain English and Mandarin brief explanations of the history and highlights of these places. To view, disable the autoplay mode and open the files individually.

All visitors and pilgrims heading towards Jokhang Temple must pass through the busy Barkhor Square. Here, shops, restaurants and make-shift stalls line the perimeter of the square selling mainly Buddhist related items like katas (prayer scarves), imitation Tibetan pearl strung into bracelets, necklaces and telephone straps, hand held prayer wheels, thankas, Tibetan herbs and even VCDs of Tibetan music and documentaries. Stall-owners are either local or immigrated Chinese entrepreneurs. This is the place to buy your gifts and souvenirs for your family and friends. Expect to bargain up to 50% off or be prepared to be fleeced.

At dawn and dusk, the square is even more crowded as pilgrims circumambulate the 20-minute circuit clockwise around Jokhang Temple. For a glimpse of real Tibet, walk past the narrow lanes in between the stalls and shops into the back alleys. Here, time seemed to stand still as locals go about their business. There are many smaller temples, shrines and even mosques to stumble across; quaint shared quarters of the locals sharing one central water pump in the courtyard, grocery shops, Tibetan tea houses where locals congregate to catch the latest drama or news on a small television, children playing outside their houses; a slice of real Tibet.

Admission Fee: None
Opening hours: Stalls open early but most close by 7pm.
How to get there: If you take a taxi, it would only allow you to alight at the side lane (after Youth street), from here, it is a leisurely 5-minute walk to the square.If you take the trishaw, it will bring you right to the square itself.

Sera Monastery was founded by Jamchen Choje Shakya Yeshe in 1419 and said to be a rival to Drepung Monastery. In its heyday, there were up to 6000 monks serving in the monastery. The monastery comprises of the Great Assembly Hall, 3 colleges and about 33 residential units.

The four-story Great Assembly hall is the largest building in the monastery. Visitors enter via the grand entrance with 10 columns flanked by large appliqué tankas suspended from the ceiling. Here, the main image is that of its founder, Jamchen Choje Shakya Yeshe and the centrepiece of the building is a 6m two-story image of Maitreya. Opposite the Great Assembly Hall, one can view the glimmering roofs of the Potala Palace.

Sera Monastery is most famed for its Debating Courtyard. Every afternoon, groups of monks seated under trees debate in the traditional method, the antagonist standing over the seated protagonist, firing questions punctuated by aggressive hand gestures. It is hard to miss it as visitors can hear the heated voices long before they reach the courtyard. Topics debated vary from the scriptures to science. As we observed from the periphery, the monks seemed used to the sight of tourists filming or taking photographs of them (or with them) and paid little mind while they continued their heated debate. A scene not to be missed.

This site describes more details of the Sera Monastery.

Admission Fee: 50 RMB
Opening Hours: 9-4pm
How to get there: Take a taxi but do agree on the fare, as Sera Monastery is at the outskirts.

The monastic complex was erected in 1418 by Prince Rabten Kunzan Phak and the first Panchen Lama, Gelek Pelzangpo. This is the only monastic complex in Tibet that boasts affiliation to three different schools: the Sakyapa, Zhalupa and Gelukpa. Within the complex, the buildings of note are--Baiju temple or Tsuklakhang, the main temple and the great Gyangtse Kumbun stupa. The latter stands nine stories high, with 75 chapels and 108 gates that represent the spiritual path and successive stages of the tantras.

Both the temple and the Kumbum were dimly lit. Outside was another cold and wet morning. We took refuge in the main temple and observed in reverent silence, a monk performing his morning prayer punctuated by the deafening sound of the drum. The temple dates back to the 15th century and had survived intact through the years. We could barely make out the murals in the dark and wished we had brought flashlights with us. At times, we had to feel our way around blindly as we toured the chapels.

At the Kumbum, an ugly scene ensued between the monk guarding the entrance and our guide. He had wanted to search our bags for cameras and charge us for each camera found, whether we would or would not use them. Though shaken, it made us wary. Inside the Kumbum was even more dimly lit. Fortunately, there were not many tourists and pilgrims at that time. We made our way slowly to the topmost floor via the steep and narrow stairs, bypassing most of the chapels, feeling our way with our hands and feet almost like a blind person. The view from the uppermost floor was worth every bump in the head and the weather cooperated finally. Before us, the old town of Gyantse stood as if in a time warp, circling to the back, the fortress wall built in the 13th century to keep invaders and, later, the British from entering Gyantse loomed over the temple complex. Rounding back to the front, the Gyantse Dzong, the main fortress stood proudly atop a hill overlooking the town.

We stopped for lunch in the quaint town of Gyantse. Despite the rain, the streets were beginning to come alive with souvenir shops setting up shop outside the temple. Further down, sundry shops, and restaurants were already opened for business; farmers were toting their produce on donkey-pulled carts to the wet market and the odd cow minding its own business.

Admission Fee: 40RMB
Opening Hours: 9am-1pm and 3-6pm

Norbulingka Palace is situated south of the Lhasa Hotel and the Nepalese Consulate. Also known as the Summer Palace for the Dalai Lamas, the 40-ha park comprises of Norbulingka in the east and Jianselingka in the west. There is also a small zoo that can be completed in 15mins. At the time of our visit, the park was under upgrading. The outer perimeters of the Norbulingka Palace were one of neglect with undergrowth and weeds growing haphazardly. Inside the Palace grounds, we were greeted by a veritable flower garden and ancient birch and cypress tress.

The Summer Palace of the 14th Dalai Lama was built in a fusion style of both Tibetan and Western from 1954-1956. The living quarters were modern in comparison with the Potala Palace, complete with indoor plumbing and bathtub (compliments from the British), imported European furniture, ornate chandeliers and a mysterious box that looked like an antique radio (a gift from India). Photography is not allowed and least you cross the roped areas, there are surveillance cameras in every room watching your every move.

From the Summer Palace, we strolled towards the less grand but nevertheless, pretty grounds of the summer residence of the 8th Dalai Lama. The lake and pavilions formed a quiet oasis from the outside world.

Admission Fee: 60 RMB, separate charge of 10 RMB if you visit the mini zoo.
Opening Hours: 9.30-12.30pm, 3.30-6pm (summer), closed on Sundays.
How to get there: Take a taxi or walk from Barkhor vicinity.

Tashilhunpo Monastery is the second largest monastery in Tibet and the seat of the second holiest man, the Panchen Lama. It was founded in 1447 by the first Dalai Lama, Gendun Drupa. This was also the site of a power struggle between the Chinese and the Tibetan monks over the succession of the 11th Panchen Lama.

We entered the monastery via the main entrance after purchasing entry tickets, and witnessed an ugly scene between a boorish Chinese official who insisted on driving his land cruiser past the main entrance into the monastery (no vehicles were allowed). A monk had blocked his way, adamant to prevent such a sacrilege against the holy grounds. The latter gave way eventually when another "senior" monk came forward and waved the Chinese official onwards.

The main "attraction" here is the world’s largest gilded copper Maitreya housed in Jamkhang Chenmo. Construction began during World War I and contains tons of gold (said to be donated by the Chinese), copper, and brass encrusted with precious stones. We were in awed of its massive size as we circled the base of it. The monastery, except for a few monks at the chapels, seemed almost deserted. The white-washed walls and narrow, flag-stoned pavements seemed to have withstood the test of time, as we felt as if we had stepped into another time and place. Overlooking the monastery are the slopes of Dolmari. Colourful prayer flags billowed wildly at the peak with ladders painted on the rocks. According to our guide, the "ladders" are said to aid the spirits in its ascension to Heaven.

Opposite the monastery, a Chinese square and makeshift stage presides. At the time of our visit, Tibet was celebrating its 40th year as an autonomous state. Shigatse seemed to begin its celebration ahead of Lhasa with line dancing Tibetan style, speeches from visiting Chinese officials, and food.

Admission Fee: 60RMB
Opening Hours: 8am to 4pm
Go HERE for more details.

Tibet is situated 4700m above sea level. Visitors to Tibet would inevitably experience some form of high-altitude sickness. This occurs when travellers ascend too quickly to a high altitude and are unable to adapt to the lower oxygen concentration and change in atmospheric pressure.

Signs and symptoms include nausea, vomiting, giddiness, fatigue, headache, loss of appetite, breathlessness on exertion, and difficulty in sleeping. In severe cases, it results in a cough with frothy sputum; swelling of eyes, face, feet, and hands; reduced urine output; confusion; or coma. If undetected or untreated, it may be fatal.

Prior to departure for our trip, we were informed by the tour agent that altitude sickness affects the young and active more so than the elderly. We postulated that it may be related to the higher metabolic rate of the young, ergo higher oxygen demand compared to the elderly.

Except for one, all of us suffered symptoms from headaches to difficulty in sleeping during the first few days. The symptoms began as soon as we alighted from the plane in Lhasa airport. I felt giddy and short of breath just making my way out of the immigration to the arrival hall! The giddiness disappeared only to be replaced with constant headaches.

Fortunately, the symptoms were mild, that and we were faithfully popping pills three times a day. We soon recovered enough to enjoy the remaining of our trip.

Tips to minimise altitude sickness:
1. Ascend gradually. There are several routes to Lhasa. We flew in from Singapore (elevation 52 feet) to Chengdu (1,667 feet) and stayed overnight. From there, we flew to Lhasa (12, 000feet). Alternatively, travel via Qinghai and ascend slowly by bus or train.

2. Drink lots of fluid to avoid dehydration, and avoid alcohol and smoking. Avoid food binging and eat moderately. Drink glucose or brown-sugar fluids for the first few days.

3. Avoid overexertion and limit activities to a minimum upon arrival to Lhasa. Gradually increase activities over the next few days.

4. Learn to recognise signs and symptoms early. Those with hypertension or preexisting heart or lung problems should avoid going.

5. Minimise use of oxygen in the first few days, as this delays acclimatisation.

Prophylactic:
Diamox or Acetozolamide reduces symptoms and assists in acclimatisation. However, there is no real scientific evidence to show its effectiveness.

This site explains further this in-depth.

Treatment:
The only treatment for altitude sickness is to descend to a lower altitude as quickly as possible. Symptoms usually disappear at lower elevation.

For more information on high-altitude sickness:
Medline Plus has a good summary on Mountain Sickness.

Hongjingtian or Rhodiola is a common Tibetan remedy widely available in Chengdu and Tibet for altitude sickness.

Note
It would be wise to consult your family physician before making plans to visit Tibet.
Healthcare in Tibet is negligent and hygiene practises are pathetic, so purchasing a good health insurance policy that includes all evacuation costs is of utmost importance.

Climate
Due to its unique geographical position and vastness, the weather in Tibet is variable. For example, while travelling from Drigung to Nyingchi, we experienced rain, snow, and sun all in a day. We were ill prepared for that day and were scrambling to put on layers upon layers as we travel, only to start "stripping" again in the afternoon when we reached our final destination. In short, be prepared for extreme weather conditions.

Travel Insurance
Healthcare services are negligent at best, so purchasing good travel insurance that provides 100% coverage, particularly for evacuation (which easily costs >US$25,000) is of utmost importance. In our case, our departure plane was delayed for 24 hours, resulting in 1 lost day in Chengdu (we had planned to visit the panda-breeding reserve). Needless to say, we filed for compensation with our travel insurance company as soon as we returned home.

What to pack:

1.Sunglasses- the glare from the sun can be blinding, particularly if it is sunny on a snowy landscape.

2. Sunblock, preferably with UV, UAB, and PAB protection (SPF of 40 or above).

3. Lightweight jacket for temperatures below 10°C, thermal wear, gloves, and scarves, regardless of the season you are visiting (we had a snowball fight in the middle of summer).

4. Umbrella or raincoat. The months of July to August are peak rainy season, so do bring along a strong umbrella or raincoat. We encountered rain almost every day during our trip, and contrary to what we were told, it can rain quite heavily. The upside of it was that we managed to observe beautiful rainbows streaking across the sky on several occasions.

4. Toilet paper (if you are a heavy user) or lots of packets of tissue paper and wet wipes.
Public toilets (if you can find it) have no flushing or tap water for washing hands and most charge a small fee of $0.10 to $0.20 RMB ( about US$0.05).
Public toilets, especially those in the rural areas, are basically holes dug over or near a ravine or river. Be prepared for the stench of accumulated waste and wriggling maggots. You might want to try dabbing a few drops of perfume on a handkerchief of tissue and covering it over the nose and mouth to mask some of the stench. We basically hold our breath and pee as fast as we can. Hygiene seemed to be of low priority, and all of Tibet seemed to be an open toilet with locals peeing in the open fields and toilet training their toddlers on the pavements outside shops.

6. Extra battery packs and film. You can recharge your batteries in most hotels in major towns. Films, if sold, are of the usual variety, ISO200-400, at exorbitant prices.

7. Extra bags. Tibet has a strict policy against shops issuing plastic bags to shoppers in the name of protecting the environment. If you intend to do a little shopping, it is best to carry your own shopping bag.

8. First aid kit. It would be handy to bring your own first-aid kit consisting of bandages, disinfectant, antiseptic cream, and medication. Basic kits are available at most pharmacies and major department stores in your country. Medical assistance may be difficult, particularly in remote areas, so don't leave home without a basic first-aid kit.

8. Food. There are basically two types of food available throughout Tibet. Tsampa or millet mixed with yak milk and sugar into a paste (tastes like uncooked cookie dough), accompanied with yoghurt, is the main staple of Tibetan diet. Although filling, this can be somewhat monotonous. Tibetans do not consume fish due to the practice of water burial. However, there are a variety of vegetables and fruits (thanks to the Chinese agricultural efforts).

Chinese, namely Sichuan-styled (i.e., tongue-numbing, spicy-hot, oil-layered, and salty) is the other available food. The latter offers more variety, but standards differ according to the chef’s skills. We ate mostly the latter, but gave specified instructions upon placing our orders to reduce the salt, spiciness, and oil content. It soon became a sing-song catchphrase for our guide before ordering each meal.

Western-style food is available only in major towns like Lhasa, Gyantse, and Zedang. It’s best to bring your own instant foods if you are fussy about it (you can always donate to the locals at the end of the trip). Most hotels provide hot water on request or have water kettles, so preparing instant foods should not be a problem. High-energy bars and snacks are handy, especially during long journeys.

What to buy

Tankas: These are wall hangings or scrolls depicting Buddhism and Buddhist scriptures either sewn or painted onto cloth or silk. They were originally used by monks for teaching purposes.

Buddhist artefacts: Found commonly outside monasteries and temples, these include incense, water-offering bowls, prayer wheels, and prayer beads.

Tian-chu (Heaven’s pearl/Tibetan pearl): There are many imitations widely available in Tibet, so choose wisely and buy from reputable stores (unless you have the intention to buy imitations, in which case, bargain hard). Tibetans prize them for their healing and protective properties. Tian-chu, or Tibetan pearl, is smooth to touch and normally comes in shades of brown and white. The darker the color, the more valuable it is. Many shops would scratch the pearl against glass as a test against fakes. However, we learnt that good quality imitations will pass this test. The only way to differentiate is to place it under a scan, or cut the pearl into half. The core should reveal concentric circles. Each pearl is unique and has significant meaning, so be sure to ask the shop assistant to write it down.

Prayer flags: Tibetan prayer flags come in five colors: white, red, yellow, green, and blue, signifying clouds, fire, earth, lake, and sky. This should not be confused with the Chinese flags hang from buildings.

Offering scarves or Kataks. We received these from our guide as soon as we arrived in Tibet, a Tibetan welcome. These scarves are usually made of cotton or silk and can be easily purchased at the local markets for pilgrims as offerings in temples and monasteries. They are available in a variety of colours, white, signifying sincerity, being the most common.

Saffron: A highly prized spice, Tibetan saffron are available at herbal shops or at the Tibetan pharmaceutical factory in Lhasa.

For in-depth information:
"Tibet" by Michael Buckley, published under the Bradt Travel Guide, offers a Western perspective which offers some useful if not somewhat bias information, while "Tibet" by Gyurme Dorje, published under Footprint, offers a more moderate perspective. The latter can be confusing at times, as places follow the Tibetan names rather than the current Chinese names. For an amusing read, Michael Palin’s Himalayas offer some interesting insights on Tibet.

Day 5 :
We have covered most of the major sights in and around Lhasa and all of us had acclimatised somewhat to the altitude. We were to begin our "nomadic" life from here on, heading further afield to view the beautiful sacred lakes of Yamdrok tso, Namtso and Basomtso, and to Rongbuk to marvel over God’s creation, the highest mountain in the world, Mt Everest.

We started our journey at 9am; our first stop was Yamzhong tso. It was the first of our long drives ahead. We took the southern route via Gyantse to Shigatse, crossing the Tsangpo bridge; we began our long and winding way up to Khamba La for a panoramic view of the pincer-shaped Yamdrok tso (the Turquoise Lake). The roads were surprisingly in better condition than expected. However, it can be deceptive, as drivers must stay constantly alert for falling rocks, domestic animals crossing and roads washed off by rain. The roads are also narrow and we soon learnt to appreciate the skills of our driver.

We reached the peak of Khamba La (4794m) an hour later, our bus almost stalling as it slowly made the steep climb. We were not alone as tour buses, land cruisers and mini vans were parked haphazardly in both directions, waiting for tourists to snap pictures of the magnificent lake in all its turquoise splendour. Jostling among the tourists were enterprising Tibetans offering their colourfully decorated yaks, ponies and even a large clownish dog for photo-taking at a small fee (of course). Despite the garishness and commercialism, the breathtaking view of the lake with the Nojin Gangzang snow ranges (7191m) and Mt Donang Sangwari (5340m) in the distant background more than compensates for it. For the perfect view, head towards the prayer flags but do watch out for "land mines" (being the droppings of various animals and possibly humans too).

Yamdrok tso (4408m) is one of five sacred lakes of Tibet and also the largest freshwater lake. It is revered as a talisman for Tibet and the locals believed that should this lake dry off, Tibet will become uninhabitable. It is no wonder that the Chinese hydroelectric power station project that utilise the waters of the lake came under heavy criticism from all quarters. We were supposed to head down towards the lake, alas, the rain had washed off the road, making it impossible. We went back the way where we came from and took the Western route this time, following the canyons running along the Yarlung River towards Shigatse, our next stop and resting place. It took about 6 hours to arrive. The drive was fairly smooth, passing scenic rural landscapes, impressive canyons and waterfalls. Our driver and guide were accommodating as we made occasional stops in the middle of nowhere to take photographs of the sweeping vista.

It was also on this trip that we learnt how strong our bladders were. There were hardly any public toilets or rest stops in between. It was with a happy sigh of relief when we finally glimpse civilisation in the form of the Chinese town, Shigatse (no matter how ugly it was) appearing suddenly out of nowhere. We had travelled a total distance of 348km.

Day 7:
We had completed our tour of the 2 main "attractions" in this area, the Pelkhor Chode Temple Complex in nearby Gyantse and the Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. We checked out of our hotel after a 2-night stay, reluctantly; it was one of the better hotels we had stayed in. That, and we were not looking forward to hours of holding our bladders. Our route today would bring us back to Lhasa before turning north to Dumzhung county via the Northern route. Our final destination would be Tashidor and Namtso Chukmo.

The route brought us into the grassland region, passing horses and domestic farm animals grazing peacefully, sometimes halting to give way to the animals that had decided to cross over for greener pastures. In the horizon, the snow capped mountain ranges of Nyenchen Tanglha (7,088m) seemed almost within reach. Along the way, both our guide and driver seemed more alert and animated as we passed by farmers and their families in their various vehicles. Halfway, our driver turned suddenly into an open field and we were informed by our guide that there might be a possibility of us watching a local Tibetan horse festival. We were at Dulong, an hour before Yangbajin. Though it was noon and we were a little hungry, we could not let this chance meeting slipped by since we were informed that the festival was suppose to be over by now.

The field was crowded with locals. Colourful tents lined both sides of the designated "race course" demarcated by a wire fence. The locals were busy socialising inside the tents; some were doing good business selling hot snacks, drinks, toys and sundry. It was as if the circus had come to town and everyone was enjoying themselves. An out of tune song blared from what seemed like the commentator’s headquarters added some festivity and contributed to more ringing in our ears. The children were the most delighted group as they dart between the stalls, eyeing at the food and toys, some already playing with their new toys bought by indulgent grandparents/parents. A little boy was busy trying to make his new toy car run with a remote attached ingeniously by a piece of wire (sans battery!)

By 12:30pm, we were feeling hungry and restless as there seemed to be no sign of the horses. We heard murmurings that the competitions would not begin until 3 pm and were getting somewhat alarmed. Finally, at 1pm, the competition officiated by the local mayor, prayers were offered and the crowd were treated with a parade of the competitors dressed to the nines. It was over in about 10mins and we could not stay any longer. For a brief moment, we glimpsed yet another piece of Tibetan culture and were content.

We passed Yangbajin, a hotspring area with a geothermal power station that supplies power to Lhasa almost an hour later and stopped nearby for a late lunch before continuing our journey to Namtso. The total journey from Shigatse to Namtso took about 7 hours.

Day 7:
We arrived at Namtso National Reserve in the late afternoon, whizzing by Damzhung, a dull and dirty little town that was busy paving their roads and sidewalks with cement, towards the green mountain ranges and the Lhachen La pass (5,150m). The scenery changed dramatically after crossing the "checkpoint" cum ticket booth with a billiard table placed at the side of the road, presumably a favourite pastime for the locals. From flat green pastures and farmlands, we drove into the grassland valley dotted with black yak tents pitched by nomads with herds of yaks and sheep grazing peacefully, perched at an insane angle on the side of the mountains. At the peak of Lhachen La pass, we stopped for a panoramic view of the second largest saltwater lake on the Tibetan plateau, Namtso Lake (4,718m), which is 70km long and 30km wide. Here, pilgrims endured the constant merciless wind to hang prayer flags and some even performed prostration. The wind was so strong; I now knew the meaning of windswept. A word of caution: avoid standing near the edge of the cliff or you just might be blown over.

The descent to Tashidor took another half an hour. This is a small encampment where visitors can rent a bed for as little as 15 RMB in either longhouses or in Tibetan-style tents near the hermitage caves. There are minimal facilities, as tents do not have heat and the only hot water is in a large thermos flask provided by the staff running the camp. The tent we were sharing was meant for six people. It looked fairly comfortable, and it would have been comfortable but for the lack of heat. We were ill-prepared for this day and rushed to put on as many layers as possible. The day had been a wet and cold one, and we suspect, the night might be worse. The wind chilled us right into our bones, and none wanted to venture any farther than the warm main tent, where guests were received with hot tea/yak milk boiled over a stove fuelled by dried yak dung. Our mummies were planning to sleep here instead of our cold, dark tent.

We did venture out eventually, all wrapped up like Chinese dumplings, down the path leading towards the lake. We were waylaid enroute by locals offering horse rides along the edge of the lake. We were too cold to accept, not even tempted to when one cheekily offered to put me in his wool coat. In fact, we were too cold to even walk down to the edge of the lake. We took in the breathtaking view of this sacred lake surrounded by the snow-capped mountain ranges of Nyanchen Tahglha with ominous clouds hanging low, obscuring the peaks. We circled around the sentinels of Tarshidor, two tall rock towers decorated with prayer flags the nunnery and headed back to the warmth of the main tent. We met the mummies on the way back; the grandfather of the camp was leading them to the ladies, a modern brick building sticking quite sorely out of the rocks. It was clean, but like all other toilets we encountered, it was basically holes built over a cesspool, with no plumbing so to speak.

Dinner was a simple affair of fried rice and Chinese tea. Our guide and driver were enjoying their tsampa with yoghurt and butter milk. After-dinner entertainment was the usual chat and, later, karaoke (yes, this wonderous Japanese pasttime has reached far flung places). We slipped back to our cold tent early and burrowed into thick, heavy blankets that smelled of butter milk. The sound of the generator kept us awake initially till lights-out at around 12am. This was replaced by the sound of thunder and rain soon after. We felt the full force of Mother Nature upon our sturdy tent (thank God it was sturdy!). Towards morning, we woke to the sound of dogs barking; it seemed as if the camp was being attacked by a pack of wild dogs. None of us moved. Certainly, I was at my grumpiest, having not really slept at all the night before (couldn’t even toss and turn, as the blankets were too heavy).

The rain did not let up at all, and none of us wanted to stay to explore the lake region in this miserable weather. The only other living creature in sight besides man, horse, and yak was a lone eagle flying overhead searching for prey. A pity. Our driver informed us that on a good day, the lake would be a wonderous blue. *sigh*

Kudos to the deeply devouted pilgrims who circle the lake, some on an annual basis (18 days to complete the circuit on foot) and to the workers hard at work repairing the roads leading to the lake.

Day 9
The wet season had made the road to Mt Everest base camp impassable. Visiting Drigung Thel monastery (4,280m) and the Charnel ground (Drigung Durtro), the most famed site for sky burial was the alternative offered. Drigung Thel monastery was built precariously at the edge of the cliffs overlooking the valley and dates back to the early 12th century. The journey there was most perilously as we turned off from the highway into a dirt road. We jostled and bounced through the valley for about an hour, grabbing hard onto our seats to avoid being bumped on the head and sustaining serious head injuries, passed a narrow bridge that was obviously built for lighter and smaller vehicles, and slowly climbed the narrow and winding cliffs that overlooked the green valley (you bet we prayed hard!). The landscape that unfolded before us was spectacular. On the distant horizon, the snow-capped mountain ranges were half shrouded in mist, and before us were ploughed fields and wild flowers in vivid blues, purple, and yellow. As we approached the monastery, we awed at the magnificence of the monastery that seemed to be carved out of the cliffs. The journey from Lhasa to Drigung Thel monastery took 5 hours in all.

The monastery was under repair at the time of our visit. Apart from a few German tourists, we were the only other visitors. The morning was wet and grey again. As if reflecting this, the atmosphere at the monastery was dark and dank. We were told that two bodies were being brought to the Drigung Charnel ground for a sky burial. We were not allowed to view this ritual by order of the law. We could, however, view the site later when the ritual is completed. Once reserved for kings and nobles, a sky burial is considered the highest and cleanest form of burial. The body is dismembered and the bones crushed and mixed with tsampa before being fed to vultures and crows.

We followed the mint-lined path that would lead us to the burial site. Under normal conditions, the hike is suppose to take approximately 15 minutes, but we took almost an hour as we stopped often, either to hide under some shrub to wait out a heavy downpour or to take pictures of the different alpine flora that littered both sides of the path. The rain had brought out the scent of mint; it was an invigorating hike that brought us another 200m above sea level. We halt just before the actual site and waited for the ritual to end. Two donkeys grazed peacefully farther up the slope and large vultures were seen standing immobile with their wings spread wide-open. This, according to our driver, was to dry their wet wings. A large black dog with bloody eyes came down from the site and stood quietly before us as if to make sure we did not approach the site before the proper time. Our driver went ahead of us, and, after waiting about 30 minutes, we were finally signalled to climb the final steep slope. The view of the surrounds from the site was simply incredible. I felt like Julie Andrews in the opening scene from the "Sound of Music" and would have burst into song but for the inappropriateness of the occasion. As we circled the perimeter of the burial ground, we saw vultures and crows still feeding on the remains. A pit used for cremation still held fragments of bones and lining the slope were prayer wheels encased in windmill-like poles.

We left Drigung Thel monastery for Nyingchi, our next destination, our disappointment over not being able to see Mt Everest somewhat assuaged.

Day 10
We departed from our dreary hotel in Drigung town for Nyingchi (Nyangtri county. This was the old capital of Nyangtri county and is located in southeast Tibet, where the Himalaya Mountains and Nyainqentanglha Mountains extend from west to east, like parallel huge dragons, to join the Hengduan Mountains in the east. The route was by far the most scenic, passing pastoral farmlands, grasslands dotted with wildflowers and forested mountains with towering pine trees. The journey was also our longest, 7 hours in total before we reached Nyingchi.

We followed the Niyang river, a tributary of the great Yarlung river and crossed the watershed pass of Mi La or Mamzhong La pass (4930m), between Meldro and Nyang-chu rivers. Here, the landscape changed gradually from green to grey and by the time we reached Mi La pass, we were in winter wonderland. We stopped for some photographs and a little snowball fight. We were fortunate to have the place to ourselves as it was crowded with locals and tourists a few days later on our return to Lhasa. The snow too had also disappeared by then.

Descending from the Mi La pass, we witnessed one of the first of the many road accidents enroute (5 in all, some new, some days’ old). The two lane narrow road around a bend was blocked by a logging truck and a land cruiser that had flipped into the ditch. There were no casualties (this time) but the road was made impassable. The snow and rain had made driving conditions extremely difficult. The only way to continue our journey was to drive around the truck; a highly risky manoeuvre for a miscalculation meant a freefall into the valley below. Our driver took the risk for turning around was not an option and we lived to tell the tale.

We reached the Chinese town of Nyingchi, known by locals as mini Hong Kong. It has the makings of a city; with time, it probably will be, particularly with the completion of the railway linking Tibet to the rest of China. From karaoka bars, cafes, restaurants, shops selling anything and everything, there were little traces of Tibet here.

Note
This highway from Lhasa to Nyingchi and further is one of the main routes loggers used to ship logs to Lhasa. En route, we passed by countless lorries carrying logs piled as high as two stories (which can be dangerous and foolhardy). Parts of the highway were damaged or under repair. In one instance, a heavily loaded lorry was stuck in mud trying to drive round the damaged road. It created a huge traffic jam (a rarity in Tibet’s countryside) as tourist buses, land cruisers and more lorries on both sides of the road waited for the lorry to get out of the way. It set our journey time an hour later. As we passed the offending lorry, we saw that another, smaller truck had flipped over earlier, and the driver did not survive.

Day 11
We left Nyingchi town after a peaceful night. For once, we were not kept awake by karaoka crooners till the wee hours. Our first stop was to see the "greatest cypress in China", it is over 50 meters tall, 5.8 meters wide and about 2,500 years old. Colourful prayer flags surround the tree, a stone inscribed with the facts of the tree stood before the tree. Tourists took turns to take photos of the stone with the tree behind. We did a little kora around the tree and left soon after for Basongtso (Basong lake), approximately a 2 hour drive.

Basongtso is an alpine lake at the middle and upper reaches of the Ba River (the largest tributary of the Niyang River). The lake surface is on average about 3,538 meters above sea level and covers an area of 25.9 square kilometers. This emerald lake is also considered a sacred lake by the Tibetans.

From the car park, we climbed down a flight of stairs leading to the lake. The main attraction here besides the lake is the islet of Tsodzong in the middle of the lake. A sturdy floating wooden path connects the islet to the mainland. There we explored the 17th century monastery of the Yellow Sect with the temple managed by nuns only.

We followed the pilgrims’ circuit; from the temple, we walked clockwise, passing a 2-1 tree, a combination of cypress and cherry, a rock from the Shitavana burial ground with the imprint of the body Ling Gesar, the stone paw of the tigress said to have leapt down from the mountains and landed there in a single bound, more stone prints of Sangye Lingpa, the tree with magic leaves (said to have naturally inscribed seed-syllables and animal year signs), a stone snake, a Tashi Obar stupa and finally a white stone that represents the mistress of the lake. *Phew* All this in a little islet.

On the distant shore of the lake, look out for four prominent snow peaks: Mount Aa Jomo Taktse (5963m) to the northwest, Mount Namla Karpo (6750m) to the north, Mount Naphu Gomri (5663m) to the northeast and Mount Darchenri to the east.

Since it was an exceptionally good day, we decided to take a 1 hour cruise round the lake too. For 90 RMB per person (after negotiation by our driver), we sped off to the opposite shore of the lake. There, we alighted into a shaded cove. Following a stone-lined path, we hiked upwards and soon came across a clear waterfall roaring its way down towards the lake. The place was densely forested with wild flowers blooming where the light pierced through and brightly coloured mushrooms dotting the ground. Near the top of the waterfall was a little cave with the deity of fertility. Those seeking to concieve offer their prayers here.

Back to the opposite shore, we made our way back to our chalet located within walking distance and was greeted with a beautiful rainbow streaking across the lake. What a way to end the day.