Vietnam: See it before it disappears - Hue

*Thien Mu Pagoda - the central tower is pretty much the symbol of Hue. It was also the home of the monk Thich Quang Duc, who, in 1963, drove his Austin to Saigon, got out, and set himself alight to protest the Diem government’s treatment of Buddhists.
*Minh Mang Tomb - the expansive grounds and lake are beautifully serene, and you just want to sit and ponder.
*Check out the light show on the bridge after dark.
*Get out on the Perfume River to see the local women fishing, and marvel at the boats, moving rock, etc., and how close they sit to the water.
*To me, someone said to the citizens of Hue, "go forth and make money." You see three bicycle shops in a row selling exactly the same bike for the same price, 50 identical dragon boats offering the identical all day boat trip for Au, including lunch, all going out less than half full, or, my personal favorite, buying your entry ticket to a tomb from one guy to walk 2 feet to hand it to another guy who carefully cuts the corner off.

Quick Tips:

If tombs, pagodas, and temples aren't your thing, then you may as well give Hue a miss. If you just want the whistle-stop tour, the ubiquitous boat trip will take you to five of the most popular. Admission is extra, about 55,000 dong at each site. At least one stop will involve you having to hire a moto driver to take you about 5km, and don't be surprised when they double the price on the return trip!

If you have a real interest in the sites of Hue and want to spend more than about 30 minutes per site, then hire a car and driver to take you out. Any and every hotel can organise this for you.

Best Way To Get Around:

We flew from Ho Chi Minh into Hue. It cost about Au. Traffic isn't a problem in Hue, so walking around is easy and safe. Push bikes are readily available for hire, as are taxis, cyclos, and moto taxis for those willing to risk life and limb in a third-world country.

We paid $25 per night. There was nothing particularly bad about this place, but the hosts weren't the friendliest we met. It has a lift, and most rooms have balconies. It is fairly modern three-star, offering internet and a tour desk. It is located in a quiet street less than 5 minutes walk from the main town.

The evening Regional Cuisine Buffet is an amazing value for the money for fantastic quality food. An amazing variety of dishes are served in the internal courtyard of the hotel under soft lighting. Watching the chef's prepare the fried sticky rice balls is amazing. Meat ranging from steaks to kebabs is cooked to order and there is a great choice of local seafood. They also make great cocktails and have a dessert trolley to die for. This was one of the best dining experiences of the trip.

The food is standard Vietnamese cafe fare. Good pancakes with sugar and lemon, strong coffee, with fresh milk. The purpose of your visit is actually the owner, Mr. Cu, and his gallery of photos. They are some of the best candid portraits I have seen. Mr. Cu takes great pride in his body of work, which lines the walls of the cafe. Prints are for sale, but he is happy to tell you the stories of the photos whether you buy or not. The cafe also offers a tour booking desk. Mr. Cu is knowledgeable of the local attractions and happy to recommend tours to suit. In addition to the pagoda's and temples for the military buff, tours to the nearby demilitarized zone are also arranged.

Tours depart at 8am from the main wharf and return at about 4pm. There are numerous identical Dragon boats that all depart at the same time. You can be picked up from your hotel for no additional charge.

The trip visits Linh Mu (Thien Mu) pagoda, Hon Chen Temple, Tu Duc Tomb, Minh Mang Tomb and Khai Dinh Tomb spending between 45 minutes and an hour at each stop. This is definately not enough time for a true temple junkie but it is a good way to get your bearings as to the historical sites in Hue.

Both Tu Duc and Khai Dinh tombs require a moto-taxi once you get there, and the drivers are quite notorious for doubling the negotiated price for the return trip. Each site has an entry fee of between AU$1.50 and $4. Having paid $2 for the boat trip is hardly cause for complaint. A basic cooked lunch is included in the price with the option of paying for extra dishes. The boat itself is basically a decoratively covered barge with plastic garden chairs there is no commentary or guides at the sites.

My advice would be to buy one of the locally produced books before you set out. Many of the sites are just beginning to undergo rejuvination but the sites are truly amazing, in parts faded beauty but grand none the less. Being out on the Perfume River is a trip in itself. The sights and sounds of a working river are well worth the effort and the $2.

The dragon boats depart the wharf at 8:30pm. Make sure you get on a fullish boat, because 2 hours is a long time to have to give your undivided attention to performers because you are the only ones on the boat.

Performers play traditional woodwind, stringed instruments, the teacups and sing traditional folk songs. They obviously enjoy themselves, but unfortunately, I didn't get any of the jokes due to my nonexistent Vietnamese and their limited English. At the end of the performance, coloured lanterns are released onto the river. Apart from the performances being out on the river at night, it is pretty.