Doing the Bay the Right Way

Chez Panisse Cafe

Restaurant

Quote:

We were seated in the brighter side of the café upstairs, with the sunlight beaming above our heads. It felt like a real lunch atmosphere. Unfortunately, we were also seated next to a woman who felt compelled to talk not only to her companion but to every other table around her. Member bonvivant702 and I were determined to enjoy our lunch. Chez Panisse’s menu changes according to the produce available during the season. Alice Waters, the executive chef and owner, opened the restaurant in 1971. She is credited with introducing and shaping a culinary style that has been considered a distinctively California cuisine. Her efforts both in and out of the kitchen have left a deep imprint on the c...Read More

We were seated in the brighter side of the café upstairs, with the sunlight beaming above our heads. It felt like a real lunch atmosphere. Unfortunately, we were also seated next to a woman who felt compelled to talk not only to her companion but to every other table around her.

Member bonvivant702 and I were determined to enjoy our lunch. Chez Panisse’s menu changes according to the produce available during the season. Alice Waters, the executive chef and owner, opened the restaurant in 1971. She is credited with introducing and shaping a culinary style that has been considered a distinctively California cuisine. Her efforts both in and out of the kitchen have left a deep imprint on the culinary scene. Arising from her conviction that when ingredients are organically grown, food is at its best, she has prominently supported farmers who practice ecologically sound ways of food producion. To that end, she heads several foundations that promote ecological conservation for future generations.

I started with the anchovy and potato salad with chervil. Thin slivers of garlic were scattered throughout the salad. At times, my mouth didn’t know what to appreciate first. The anchovy and potato combination was a nice balance. My companion, bonvivant702, had a mix of garden lettuces with goat cheese. For a lover of that type of cheese, the baked Sonoma was heavenly for her. For an entrée, I chose the grilled pork with ratatouille and watercress. I can never say "no" to anything from the Laughingstock farm.

As soon as the meat melted in my mouth, the only thing I could say was that it was one happy piglet. It had that sweetness I've previously experienced in good bacon. You know that the flavor is not because of any seasoning or marinade but instead an expression of the meat's natural juices. She went for the chicken—happy chicken too—with sweet corn polenta and Romano beans.

Among the choices for desserts were a pistachio cake in apricot cream and a nectarine and blackberry tart with vanilla ice cream. They were all tempting, but we’d heard every story the woman right next to us could ever think of, so we decided to pay our bill and find another spot to have desserts. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Chez Panisse Cafe
1517 Shattuck Avenue
San Francisco, California 94709
(510) 548-5049

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Sketch Ice Cream

Restaurant

Quote:

At Sketch Ice Cream, my eyes rolled in ecstasy. Member bonvivant702 had the watermelon granita with Strauss yogurt, while I picked the lavender and peach ice cream. Granitas are so simple, but they become something else when topped with fresh yogurt from the Strauss Family Creamery. My lavender ice cream was like--for lack of a better description--eating lotion. It was so fragrant and smooth--probably one of the best ice creams I’ve ever had in my life. The peach was not at all tarty, but at the same time not too sweet. Can I say perfect? The owners, Ruthie Planas and Eric Shelton, were both pastry chefs in Aqua Restaurant before they decided to open Sketch. In true Berkeley style, every ingred...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Sketch Ice Cream
1809 4th Street
San Francisco, California 94710
510/665-5650

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Wolverton Barbeque and Picnic

Restaurant

Quote:

We hadn’t eaten a complete meal all day since we arrived in Sequoia National Park, so it was very good timing that the Wolverton Barbeque started shortly before dusk and just after we had finished our day of sightseeing. We had driven by earlier to buy tickets to the all-you-can-eat buffet. A few hours later, we were back, armed with a spray bottle of DEET. For the next hour, we ate barbeque ribs and chicken, burger patties, coleslaw, potatoes, and grilled corn. We also bought Corona beers to match.We sat at one of the picnic table set-ups with a huge umbrella and enjoyed the backyard view of Wolverton. We couldn’t have asked for anything more, especially after the all-American apple pie. ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Wolverton Barbeque and Picnic
Sequoia National Park
San Francisco, California 93271
(559) 565-3341

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French Laundry

Restaurant | "The French Laundry"

Quote:

Our Day 3 destination was to be a fulfillment of a long-time dream for some foodies: Thomas Keller's The French Laundry. The boy immediately recognized the tall man in the chef's uniform as soon as we walked into the restaurant’s garden. Imagine my glee when I finally realized that it was Thomas Keller himself, talking with Laura Cunningham, the woman who made the great chef a true restaurateur. I did not expect to get a table for four two days before I left for San Francisco, and I certainly did not expect the chef to be at the restaurant because of his commitments to Per Se, his newest restaurant in New York City. Dinner hadn't begun, and there was already a story to tell.We were just be...Read More

Our Day 3 destination was to be a fulfillment of a long-time dream for some foodies: Thomas Keller's The French Laundry. The boy immediately recognized the tall man in the chef's uniform as soon as we walked into the restaurant’s garden. Imagine my glee when I finally realized that it was Thomas Keller himself, talking with Laura Cunningham, the woman who made the great chef a true restaurateur. I did not expect to get a table for four two days before I left for San Francisco, and I certainly did not expect the chef to be at the restaurant because of his commitments to Per Se, his newest restaurant in New York City. Dinner hadn't begun, and there was already a story to tell.

We were just beginning to make ourselves comfortable at a very private table in the restaurant's alcove when we were told that the chef was ready to meet us in the kitchen before he left for home. The boy may have told the maitre'd that we were culinary students. Meeting Thomas Keller was like meeting a celebrity. Shaking his hand was better than shaking the hand of a political figure. His towering demeanor, both in status and height, left me nervous and speechless.

The French Laundry kitchen was white, bright, and spotless--exactly how articles featuring Thomas Keller have described the way he likes his workspace. After taking a couple of group photos, the chef pointed to the flat screen on the kitchen's wall--it was a live video feed of Per Se's kitchen, allowing the entire staff to communicate and consult with him from far away. Before we finally returned to our table, he signed copies of the night's menu with his infamous epithet, "It's all about finesse."

The next four and a half hours were memorable, but first, if there's anything that makes a restaurant divine besides the food, it's the impeccable service. We all chose the chef's tasting menu, with its inviting set of nine courses. With each course, there were at least three people serving us. One would deliver the flatware to our table, and two would simultaneously put our plates down on the table in an orchestrated manner. Each course was graciously presented. If we wanted to know about an ingredient, there was always a satisfying answer. The sommelier was very accommodating without the snobbery. He suggested for us to start with a glass of champagne before eating, and he also selected the half-bottles of excellent white and red wine to match our courses. The manager never seemed to forget us. He was always coming by to ask us about our experience, but without being annoying or intrusive. We were certainly the youngest group in the restaurant, but we never felt like we did not belong with the rich, white, gray-haired crowd.

Click here for complete review of The French Laundry. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

French Laundry
6640 Washington Street
Yountville, California 94599
(707) 944-2380

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Gary Danko

Restaurant

Quote:

Day 4 dinner was at Gary Danko. We had an 8:30pm table for four but ended up waiting thirty minutes to be seated. The kitchen sent us amuses to enjoy with our starter drinks at the bar. Since one of us is vegetarian, they prepared an extra one without salmon for him. It was a Tuesday night, but the restaurant had the busy buzz of a weekend crowd with all the diners around us. As much as we promised ourselves not to compare The French Laundry to Gary Danko, it was disappointing to see that the service here was not up to par. Apparently tonight's performance was not representative of the Gary Danko my companions were familiar with. When a restaurant charges $70 for four courses, I expect the servic...Read More

Day 4 dinner was at Gary Danko. We had an 8:30pm table for four but ended up waiting thirty minutes to be seated. The kitchen sent us amuses to enjoy with our starter drinks at the bar. Since one of us is vegetarian, they prepared an extra one without salmon for him. It was a Tuesday night, but the restaurant had the busy buzz of a weekend crowd with all the diners around us. As much as we promised ourselves not to compare The French Laundry to Gary Danko, it was disappointing to see that the service here was not up to par. Apparently tonight's performance was not representative of the Gary Danko my companions were familiar with. When a restaurant charges $70 for four courses, I expect the service to be better than what we received that night.

When we were finally seated, they forgot to give us the wine list. We had to request for it when the sommelier came to our table to ask us if we had decided on wine. When I decided on a glass of zinfandel, the sommelier walked away with the list without asking the rest of the table for their drink orders. When they brought us a second round of amuses, we had to remind our waiter again that one of us was vegetarian. No one told us about the specials until we inquired. It also took a while for our waiter to return to take our orders. We spent four hours at dinner, not because our courses were perfectly paced but because we were waiting for our food to be served.

In spite of the service mishaps, however, once the food finally arrived, I began to appreciate what Gary Danko was really about. I started with the seared Ahi tuna with avocado, enoki mushrooms, and nori. The lemon soy dressing was almost too tart, but the mushrooms and avocado provided the right balance. The tuna was wonderfully tender and pink. The size of this dish could almost have made it an entree.

Next was the roasted Maine lobster with chanterelles and white corn. Tarragon was the strongest herb in this dish, and it tasted like it. I would have been happy without the potato puree, because the lobster was rich enough to make the dish a complete meal.

I greatly enjoyed the frog legs wrapped in pancetta. The garlic puree was a nice touch to the lentils, and both kept the saltiness of the bacon at bay.

For dessert, I chose the apricot tart with almond cream and Beaumes de Venise ice cream.

The food was excellent. It was unfortunate, though, that I had to be there on an off-night from the waitstaff. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Gary Danko
800 North Point at Hyde Street
San Francisco, California 94133
(415) 749-2060

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Turtle Tower

Restaurant

Quote:

Day 5: We were all craving for phð, and Turtle Tower in the Tenderloin district, with its Northern Vietnamese style of cooking, was the obvious choice. Our phð did not come with the more familiar serving of bean sprouts and basil leaves but instead with spring onions. The noodles were wider and flat. The broth also tasted different, better than what I'm used to in most Vietnamese places in New York City and Montreal. It was a touch lighter, and it tasted more pure. I found out later that this Northern style of making phð does not involve star anise and other herbs known in the south. I now must find a Northern Vietnamese restaurant in New York City!

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Turtle Tower
631 Larkin Street
San Francisco, California 94109
415/409-3333

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Taqueria Cancun

Restaurant

Quote:

The trip would not have been complete without a stop at Taqueria Cancun on 19th Street. We'd already had several beers at a bar during our last night in San Francisco, but we capped the trip with a couple of Pacificos, a chorizo taco, and the eternally satisfying house-special burrito filled with rice, beans, and carne asada.

At Taqueria Cancun, it's easy to forget your name as soon as you bite into their traditional Mexican fare.

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Taqueria Cancun
2288 Mission St. (Cross St.: 19th Street)
San Francisco, California 94110
(415) 252-9560

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Sequoia and King Canyon National Parks

Attraction | "Sequoia National Park"

Quote:

Day 2 started with a 5-hour drive to Sequoia National Park. Inside Sequoia National Park, we checked in Wuksachi Lodge and moved our luggage and food to our deluxe room in the Silliman building. We were warned about the bears that roam the area, especially at night. After the sun came down a bit, we started our stroll along the Big Trees Trail. Reading the exhibit-style explanations along our route, we learned plenty about the trees. Redwoods and sequoias are in the same family but are different species. The redwoods, sequoia sempervirens, are the world’s tallest tree. The sequoias, sequoiadendron giganteum, are the world’s largest in terms of total volume of wood and are onl...Read More

Day 2 started with a 5-hour drive to Sequoia National Park. Inside Sequoia National Park, we checked in Wuksachi Lodge and moved our luggage and food to our deluxe room in the Silliman building. We were warned about the bears that roam the area, especially at night.

After the sun came down a bit, we started our stroll along the Big Trees Trail. Reading the exhibit-style explanations along our route, we learned plenty about the trees. Redwoods and sequoias are in the same family but are different species. The redwoods, sequoia sempervirens, are the world’s tallest tree. The sequoias, sequoiadendron giganteum, are the world’s largest in terms of total volume of wood and are only grow in the west slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

The trail skirts around the Round Meadow, as if the sequoias were guarding the flower beds in the middle. No sequoias grow in the meadow because the moisture level here was excessive and limited gas exchange from the trees’ roots. Any seedlings that sprouted here would die early. We also saw a lot of trunks with burn scars. The rangers perform controlled fires in the park to help the trees to reproduce.

We stopped by the Auto Log, a short pathway cut on top of a fallen sequoia to help visitors like us compare our cars to the size of the giant trees. If that is not enough to inspire awe, the Tunnel Log found at the end of Crescent Meadow Road provides another example of the scale of a normal sequoia. A tunnel was cut through the fallen tree to allow cars through. On the way back to our lodge, we said hello to General Sherman, the largest living thing on earth. We split our time trying to figure out how to fit the entire tree in our camera’s viewfinder and swatting the mosquitoes that bombarded our arms and legs.

By the time we ran back to our parked car, we had several shots of what is the official Christmas tree of the nation and about five insect bites each. We later learned that the tree was named in honor of General William Tecumseh Sherman who served as a lieutenant during the Civil War. In fact, a lot of the sequoias are named to honor military leaders.

We drove to the Moro Rock and climbed all four hundred steps to get a panoramic view of the Great Western Divide and the high Sierra canyons. The trail is only a quarter-mile trail, but the steep granite steps certainly made us feel like we were climbing more.

I finally got to experience what I had only seen in National Geographic magazines when I was a child. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Sequoia and King Canyon National Parks
47050 Generals Highway
Three Rivers 93271
(559) 565-3341

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Wine Country Bikes

Attraction | "Sip-n-Cycle Tour of Dry Creek Valley"

Quote:

Recently dubbed by The New York Times as "the destination for all things culinary," Healdsburg was recommended to us by California friends in lieu of Napa. It is just a short drive from the center of town to three Sonoma County wine locales: the Alexander Valley, the Dry Creek Valley, and the Russian River Valley. The region boasts a variety of superb wineries but as yet lacks the crowds of tourists that flock to next-door Napa. Healdsburg is still a farming community, even though prunes, which were the main crop until the 1970s, have been replaced by grapes. We drove to WineCountryBikes to pick up the hybrid bike...Read More

Recently dubbed by The New York Times as "the destination for all things culinary," Healdsburg was recommended to us by California friends in lieu of Napa. It is just a short drive from the center of town to three Sonoma County wine locales: the Alexander Valley, the Dry Creek Valley, and the Russian River Valley. The region boasts a variety of superb wineries but as yet lacks the crowds of tourists that flock to next-door Napa. Healdsburg is still a farming community, even though prunes, which were the main crop until the 1970s, have been replaced by grapes.

We drove to WineCountryBikes to pick up the hybrid bikes I reserved before leaving New York City. One of the owners, John Mastrianni, has been in the bike business the last 25 years. He said he made the best decision in his life when he moved from New York to Sonoma County. I think the effects of his move are reflected in his accommodating and gentle manner.

Once we donned our helmets, he gave us a map of the Dry Creek Valley, highlighting his favorite vineyards. The boy and I decided to bike the twelve miles to the other end of the valley. We agreed to bike to the top of West Dry Creek Road and work our way down to Kinley Road. From there we would work our way back down, stopping at a chosen vineyard for a tasting and rest. The weather was perfect for biking. The midday sun was hot but not oppressive.

Our first stop was Bella, where the tasting was held inside a cave. They have a limited production, less than 25 barrels, but all their wines reviewed have received 90 or more points from respected wine critics all over the country. Their Zinfandels were huge and would require foods that were equally un-shy if one wanted to pair. The Syrahs, by contrast, were tamer, though no less vibrant in terms of flavor.

Next stop was the 125-acre Preston Vineyards, where organic vegetables are farmed alongside the grapes. Picnic tables are set outside for visitors to enjoy the wine with their food. Preston was the only vineyard that charged us $5 each for the tasting. We tried their four wines: zinfandel, syrah, Rousanne, and Vin Gris.

We crossed over to Lambert Road and ended up at Passalacqua, where finally we had some refreshing chardonnay and a wonderfully crisp Sauvignon Blanc. We bought a bottle of each and packed them in our bike bags.

The boy and I decided this was the end of our tasting. We had about six more miles to go before Kinley Road and it was almost 5pm. I struggled on the way back. My legs were becoming weak and Jell-O-like. I frequently stopped by the side of the road. Finally I made my way back to the rental shop. Back in our car, we devoured the leftover pizza from Oakville Grocery before starting our drive back to San Francisco. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Wine Country Bikes
61 Front Street
San Francisco, California 95448
866-922-4537

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Monterey Bay Aquarium

Attraction

Quote:

We passed the windmills that dotted the East Bay on our way out from the city, those minimal towering structures that for some reason reminded me of Don Quixote. Almost four hours later, we were in Monterey Bay. The Monterey Bay Aquarium and its two hundred galleries and exhibits was overwhelming. I have never seen aquariums on such a scale anywhere else. My favorite was the school of bait fish swimming around and around non-stop overhead. Rarely seen jellyfish were eerily floating in large wall-mounted aquariums, suspended in a way that was haunting and memorable. There were also towering three-story aquariums that allowed all of us to see the sea turtles, sharks, and barracudas as if w...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

Monterey Bay Aquarium
886 Cannery Row
Monterey, California 93940
(831) 648-4888

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17-Mile Drive

Attraction

Quote:

In Pebble Beach, we followed the dashed red lines and drove the famous 17 Mile Drive along the coast. Armed with an $8.50 map, we stopped at each of the twelve points of interests and took photographs of the incomparably beautiful Californian coastline. Our favorite was the Lone Cypress, an enduring California landmark that has been around for over two hundred years. We oooh-ed and aaah-ed at the mansions and villas we imagined were used as sets for hip-hop videos. Somewhat absurd was the the tradition or tendency of most property owners here to name their villas, in the same way one would have a vanity plate on a car. After a lengthy discussion, Boca de Paradiso won out as being a marginally...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 28, 2005

17-Mile Drive
Pacific Grove/Pebble Beach
San Francisco, California

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I Ate at The French Laundry and You Didn't

Story/Tip

Quote:

Now that we've gotten the quick restaurant review over with, let me tell you about the food. All quotes are from the restaurant, describing both the technique used and defining the ingredients. Our night began with two amuse-bouches. First was a puff pastry-looking thing with Gruyere cheese. The second was a salmon cornet, a thin and crispy cone filled with red-onion crème fraiche and salmon tartare, with a dash of lemon juice. We hadn't even begun eating the tasting menu, and we were already learning about the true meaning of "little bites of delight." Cauli...Read More

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IgoUgo

San Francisco Journals

Doing the Bay the Right Way

Chez Panisse Cafe

Sketch Ice Cream

Wolverton Barbeque and Picnic

French Laundry

Gary Danko

Turtle Tower

Taqueria Cancun

Sequoia and King Canyon National Parks

Wine Country Bikes

Monterey Bay Aquarium

17-Mile Drive

I Ate at The French Laundry and You Didn't

About the Writer

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