Trek to Tikal

Flores, a small island in Lake Peten Itza, is serene and charming with cobbled hilly streets in comparison to the town of Santa Elena. It's crowded dusty streets, bustling with locals and vendors, is likely the place your bus or van will stop. If you have a backpack, walking across the bridge is possible, or jump in a tuk-tuk for 5 quetzals that will drop you off at your hotel. Explore the circling streets around the town and wind your way up to the top. There you can find a church, town square, basketball court and inexpensive food stalls and restaurants. Have an ice cream cone and chat with locals or maybe even a traveler you met before. Not a whole lot to do here except browse souvenir shops.

Quick Tips:

The exchange rate is a little more than 7 quetzals to 1USD. It is best to exchange just enough money at the border to arrive at your destination. You will only receive 6Q for each dollar there and at the time of my trip hotels offered 7.35Q. There is no ATM in Flores, but there are several in Santa Elena.

Prices here are extremely affordable for budget travelers. Both hostels cost 25Q. Even lake-side hotels with all the amenities are a deal at -50. Restaurants are reasonably priced but beware the food can be less than spectacular with pasta as the staple of budget joints.

In Guatemala you will not find a wide selection of products. I heard this several times from folks that had stayed for months. Ladies in particular, bring what you need if you have preferences. After searching several stores and gesturing because this is beyond my Spanish vocabulary, I bought a small can of man's shaving cream that was more expensive than my bed in the hostel. Traveling in the rainy season demands proper gear, shoes and do not forget the mosquito repellent.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking around town is easy or hire a tuk tuk. Vans depart, near the bridge and the one restaurant open at this hour, for Tikal starting at 5am. Drivers will try to convince you to pay and reserve a seat the day before. In high season, this is probably a good idea but I did not and had no problem finding a ride.

Many tour operators can arrange for transportation to your next destination. If you are crossing into Mexico, I highly advise going in a van rather than trying to navigate it on your own. Once you reach the river there is no guarantee that a boat will be crossing and the price is higher if you do not go through an agent.

I did not make the 4:30am wake-up with the other travelers at the hostel to make an early start to Tikal. The dark sky was threatening rain, so I decided to splurge and check into a hotel with air-conditioning, cable TV, lake view, pool, and hot tub. La Casona, a step above my usual accommodations when traveling for a month, has a pink with blue trim exterior, a cheery, yellow- walled dining room, pool-side bar and outdoor dining. Luckily I was allowed into a room way before check in. The room was nicely decorated although not that big as it was a single for $35US. I watched the storm from the deck and waited hours reading about Tikal and watching TV. Eventually the sun made an appearance again so I headed down to the pool. While sunning on a lounge chair a boy of about five wandered over and asked in Spanish why I was not swimming. I had read warnings about the fear of foreigners and child abductions here, so I was a bit hesitant about interacting with him. With a smile to the parents who were busy with a toddler, I got in the pool, and the boy started talking to me. I asked his name and by this time his mother came over with a slightly concerned look on her face. I told them my name and said nice to meet you in Spanish. I must have passed muster with mom, because she encouraged him to speak to me in English, "say nice to meet you". We all had a chance to practice another language, play and blow bubbles. It was a cute experience.

This a great choice for families or couples wanting a romantic evening setting. The staff was pleasant and helpful exchanging money and providing luggage storage after check out.

I did not have a travel book for Guatemala, only my notes from research. It just so happened that the van I was in stopped right in front of this hostel. I recognized the name so I rang the bell, the door is secure 24 hours a day. I was let into a dining room filled with pictures, memorabilia, and glass bookcases. After checking me in, the worker suggested choosing a bed upstairs because of the large screened windows provide a breeze. This is a no frills, basic hostel with 2 large dormitories with at least 10 bunk beds each, concrete floors, fans, and a porch. The shared bathroom is off the back, with a view into the courtyard and a woman hand-washing clothes and hanging them to dry. It is small with only one toilet and shower, but it was clean. If the hostel was full, I can see that being a huge problem.

During my stay, only four others occupied the room. I was provided with fresh crisp sheets and slept very well with the fans going until the roosters started crowing at dawn. For less than $4, this hostel is great for sleeping but there is not much of a traveler's scene here as compared to the other hostel in town. I believe they do open a rooftop bar during busier times. After staying at both, I suggest sleeping here and going to the other hostel for meals, information and meeting other travelers.

This is a new, true backpackers’ hostel run by fellow travelers that are still trying to get the word out about their hostel. They provide loads of information about the area and sell bus tickets out of town. The interior courtyard has hammocks, trees, and a resident parrot. A washing machine is available, pay by weight, but there is no dryer. That can be a problem in the rainy season. There is a small lounge area with Internet access and a book exchange. A few picnic tables are often packed with people from all over the world sharing travel tips or eating huge mounds of pasta or fresh french fries. Several Mayan women run the bar and do all the cooking in the small kitchen. The wait can be long, but worth it. I really liked the atmosphere of the common areas, but the dorms left something to be desired. The windows were small, and the one fan did not oscillate. The bunk beds did not seem very sturdy. The mattresses were thin and belonged on a futon. Sound carried easily into the room, and it was difficult to sleep in the heat. The shower area was decent, but could use a good scrubbing. I suggest hanging out here and sleeping at the other hostel. But for around $4, it’s still a good deal.
UPDATE:
The owners of this hostel sent me an email. New powerful fans have been installed to alleviate the heat in the dormitory. Check it out and tell them you found them on igougo.com

I was pleasantly surprised to find this Mediterranean oasis in Guatemala. There are only two tables in the colorful front room, one large table in the main room, and a few on the deck overlooking the lake. The cluster of cushioned chairs makes it seem as if you are in someone's home especially when the owner comes out and joins you. Seeing how hot I was, he returned with a cold, eucalyptus cloth for my neck. While we waited for his homemade rolls to bake, he told me about his life in Israel, then about taking over the restaurant only six months earlier and changing the menu. He has loyal customers that love the food, as did I. He wishes to add more Mediterranean cuisine but the ingredients are not available in Guatemala. The menu has plenty to offer especially for vegetarians at very reasonable prices. I choose the fresh hummus garnished with tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions served with the warm rolls. It was so good, I returned the next day for the babaganoush.

It is highly recommended to get an early start, leaving Flores at 5am if you are not staying at one of the expensive park hotels. This way you have time to climb a temple before the sun rises at 6am, hear the jungle wake up, and beat the heat. Keep your eyes out for the exotic wildlife crossing signs and animals along the road into the park. Only buy your ticket from the official booth yourself for 50Q, which is about $7. The park map is a good deal and the translations into English are quite humorous in parts.

At that hour of the muggy morning, I descended into the jungle alone, listening to the birds squawk and waiting for the howls from the monkeys. The first time I heard the roar from a full-grown male, I about jumped out of my skin from the primal and guttural sound. Head back and eyes to the tall trees, I witnessed several howling matches, monkeys crashing down branches, and fruit being cracked open, then the shell hurled at gawking tourists. This was my first time seeing monkeys outside of a zoo, so I too was in awe. Other wildlife highlights include a colorful wild turkey and a toucan.

This is an impressive Mayan site in the size of the temples and steep steps. To see the view in the photo below, I climbed over 200 wooden steps to reach the top of the temple. There were several that were so steep that I would not attempt climbing them after seeing people come down.

Bring your guidebook or join a guided tour to learn the history, or for budget travelers, eavesdrop on them. There are no signs explaining any of the ruins. Be prepared for lots of walking, and bring water and bug repellent. Chips, soda in glass bottles, and water vending begins throughout the park around 8am. There are several small restaurants located outside the official entrance, which are possible to walk to and return to the park. People in town act like you will starve to death if you do not buy a box lunch from them to take with you. I arrived around 6am, went for breakfast around 11am, and then returned to explore the site until 2pm. I didn't see everything, but it was a plenty of time. Transportation in the air-conditioned van was $80, and the van will stop at El Remate or anyplace along the road if you are staying outside of Flores.