Zurich Journals

Zurich: My Second Hometown

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A June 2005 trip to Zurich by Nick Malgieri

Quote: Both work and pleasure travel often bring me to Zurich, where I lived for a year in the early seventies. I know the city well and love to share suggestions about great places to see and dine.

Zurich: My Second Hometown

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Overview

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Sometimes referred to as the New York of Switzerland, Zurich offers a wealth of exciting experiences to any traveler. Whether you have a day or a week to spend there, you'll find fine hotels in every price range, places to eat that range from a stand-up bratwurst bar to some of the finest elegant dining available wordlwide, and a wealth of sightseeing and cultural activities. The Zurich lake and the Limmat river offer swimming and boating in warm weather and the good news is that they are perfectly clean and unpolluted. A short trip should always include strolls through the old town on either side of the Limmat beginning with the Niedredorf and Grossmunster areas behind the river's east bank. ...Read More

Zuppamundial

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Restaurant

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Welcome to the Tribeca of Zurich, an area reclaimed from factories and warehouses, and called Zuriwest in the local dialect. Old breweries have been transformed into hip restaurants, warehouses into shops, and even an old ship-building hangar now sports a couple of restaurants and a fine theater. I recently took a walk through to visit Zuppamundial, one of the newest restaurants in the neighborhood. The brainchild of Swiss TV star Kurt Aeschbacher (someone once described him as the Jay Leno of Switzerland, but he’s a lot more like a spry combo of David Frost and Dick Cavett), the restaurant is deservedly popular. It’s a casual setting, decorated with interesting Asian artifacts collected throughou...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 27, 2005

Zuppamundial
Giessereistrasse 18
Zurich, Switzerland
043 818 2391

Cafe Schober

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Restaurant

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A Zurich institution since 1836, Café Schober has now joined forces with Teuscher chocolates (with branches worldwide) and continues to thrive. Its miniscule setting gives you the exact impression of what it must have been like to visit such a place during the first half of the 19th century. The cakes, pastries, and chocolates are displayed on old wooden tables, and the tiny tea room to the right of the salesroom is always teeming with Zurich citizens, tourists, and a sprinkling of royalty out for a leisurely coffee. Though it’s not very large, Café Schober manages to serve a couple of thousand people a day – in the past, James Joyce, Lenin (he didn’t pay his bill), Hermann Hesse, and Brahms were a...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 27, 2005

Cafe Schober
Napfgasse 4
Zurich, Switzerland CH-8001
(01) 251 80 60

Kronenhalle Restaurant

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Restaurant | "Kronenhalle"

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The Kronenhalle isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a monument – albeit to fine food and service. It’s as much a part of the cultural history of the city as other monuments and still as wonderful as it was the day it opened. Long the property of the Zumsteg family, the Kronenhalle was a favorite hangout for artists and writers such as Friedrich Duerenmatt, James Joyce, and Marc Chagall. In fact, over the years, the Zumstegs bought many paintings from their artist friends–an especially striking Miro hangs above a sofa in the bar, and there is an exquisite Chagall oil over my favorite table at the back right side of the dining room. But, of course, the Kronenhalle is not all atmosphere and paintings. ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 27, 2005

Kronenhalle Restaurant
Rämistrasse (Bellevue)
Zurich, Switzerland

Kaiser's Reblaube / Goethe Stuebli

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Restaurant | "Kaiser's Reblaube/Goethe Stuebli"

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Right beyond one corner of the St. Peter Hofstadt, the beautifully-proportioned square in front of the St. Peter church, lies another Zurich landmark restaurant, Peter Brunner’s Kasier’s Reblaube. The name of the restaurant is the Kaiser family’s grape arbor and Kaiser refers to the name of a previous owner of the restaurant, not the German king. Really two restaurants in one, Kaiser’s Reblaube is the larger ground-floor restaurant that serves typical Zurich specialties. One flight up is the Goethe Stuebli (Little Goethe Parlor) a small dinig room that seats about 30 diners at a time. Here Brunner serves traditional Swiss food with a modern twist. A Swiss friend who joined me at the Goethe Stuebl...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 27, 2005

Kaiser's Reblaube / Goethe Stuebli
Glockengasse 7
Zurich, Switzerland
+41 01 221 2120

Bierhalle Kropf

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Restaurant

Quote:
Whenever I stay in Zurich, I make a beeline for Bierhalle Kropf for my first lunch, no matter what season. Sporting a menu of very traditional Zurich and Swiss German specialties, it is my favorite place for soaking up some old-time Zurich atmosphere along with great boiled beef -- sounds dull, but only sounds that way – it’s sublimely tender, flavorful, and comforting, and just the thing for the weary traveler. There’s also the Kropf sausage plate, served with the Swiss national potato dish, roesti – a half circle of buttery and perfectly golden shredded home fries, like no other potato dish that exists. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Bierhalle Kropf is in the old town on the West ba...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 27, 2005

Bierhalle Kropf
In Gassen 16
Zurich, Switzerland
01 221 1805

About the Writer

Nick Malgieri

Nick Malgieri
New York, New York