Honeymoon, eh? 2 Weeks in the Canadian Rockies

Having already spent an extravagant wedding night in a posh hotel, we were looking to save a little cash upon our arrival in Calgary. We reasoned, quite accurately, that we would be spending the bulk of our two days in Calgary at the Stampede with little need for luxury linens or a cheese plate. As I waded through the universe of lodging information both online and in the guidebooks, I had begun to lose hope. The last thing I want to do in a strange city, especially in another country, is to pick a hotel by price that turns out to be located in a questionable part of town. The constant sense of impending petty crime can really put a damper on a vacation. I almost didn't believe my eyes when I discovered the web page for the Country Inn & Suites. The photos showed a recently renovated hotel, charmingly decorated in a cozy lodge style. The rooms promised to be of ample size and amenities for our needs, there was a mention of continental breakfast, and the location seemed fairly convenient to both the airport and Stampede Park. All of this came at the bargain price of only US$98 per night, or about CN$109. It seemed to good to be true. I pushed the "reserve" button and hoped for the best.

Dragging from several days of wedding-related sleep deprivation, plus a long flight and time change, we stumbled through the door of the hotel to a series of pleasant surprises. The friendly, Western-clad desk staff greeted us right away, and we had key cards in hand in a matter of moments. The common areas of the hotel were clean and in good repair, and the country lodge decor of rich plaids and warm wood was delightful. We found our room to be clean and already cool upon our arrival – a welcome treat after the 92°F summer day outside. The room was well-appointed with tasteful décor, plenty of lighting, large television, coffeemaker, and a larger-than-usual bathroom for a moderate hotel. It far exceeded our expectations for the price, especially during Stampede.

The next morning, I went downstairs expecting to bring a bagel and a cup of orange juice back from the breakfast buffet. What I found made me go back upstairs and wake my husband! There were bagels, doughnuts, fruits, cereals, gigantic specialty muffins, toast, juices, milk, coffee, and a waffle station! Despite the crowd of hungry "stampeders" filling the room, all of the selections were constantly restocked in ample supply by a nice lady with a smile. The only thing in short supply seemed to be the seating. We shared our table with a father and daughter from Toronto who were also in town for the Stampede. The man said that he had been told about this hotel by a buddy of his who was often in Calgary for business. He agreed with his friend that it is definitely the best value in lodging. We agreed too!

The five-hour drive from Calgary to Jasper on the Icefields Parkway was beautiful, but still long. We rolled up to the Alpine Village needing a bit of much-deserved R&R, and that’s exactly what we got. Situated on Highway 93A just south of the Jasper Townsite, the Alpine Village is a rustic retreat that feels somehow opulent. Maybe it’s the richness of the wood in the heritage cabins, the blissful quiet of the evenings, or the almost-private view of the Athabasca River that makes this particular lodging worth the expense. For us, the total package was well worth the price of CN$170 per night.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted cheerfully at the office, where we picked up our key and received information on the area. We then trotted off to cabin #4, our little home away from home. This heritage cabin, built in 1941, was a little slice of the mountain life we’ve always dreamed of. The wood-burning fireplace, vintage gas stove and lovely quilt carried us into yesteryear, while the satellite television brought us back to the 21st century. We had a kitchenette, a sitting area, a dining area, private bathroom with tub and shower, and a nice comfortable bed. It was the perfect place from which to base our one-week adventures in Jasper National Park. As an added touch, we found a note from the staff wishing us a happy honeymoon alongside a mini bottle of champagne and some truffles.

The Alpine Village is a family-run business and the service is excellent. Our cabin was made up or left alone daily according to our wishes. The staff were great in helping us choose activities or find our way, and were also willing to give dining recommendations. The character here is also not what you would typically find at a hotel. The cabin gave us extra privacy, and we had only to walk across the road to relax right in front of the Athabasca River, amidst views of Mt. Edith Cavell and Old Fort Point. One night we decided to forego dinner at a restaurant in favor of Alberta beef on the barbecue. It was so relaxing to sit outside our cabin and grill up steaks while watching the world go by. Any aches and pains from the day’s activities we soothed away with a relaxing evening dip in the large sparkling hot tub. We also found that we could walk into the town from our cabin, at a distance of around 2 kilometers, I believe.

I would highly recommend Alpine Village to anyone looking for a relaxing place to stay. We really enjoyed the ability to have breakfast in our cabin, pack lunches, and cook dinners instead of having to dress for a restaurant. This also saved us some money, offsetting the slightly higher nightly rate. We slept well the entire time, and really felt at home. We daydreamed more than once about leaving it all behind and running away to a cabin just like #4.

We were not as impressed with our lodgings at Johnston Canyon as we were with those at Alpine Village in Jasper. While adequate for the price, the cabin left us wanting in a number of ways. I am not complaining or saying that it was a bad place to stay, but we did get a little spoiled in Jasper. The small scale of our "two-person cottage" would be more appropriate for a weekend stay than for the week we spent there. There was no closet and not enough space out on the floor to keep our luggage. The only place to hang anything was a four-hook coat rack on the wall by the door. I had to rearrange the furniture so we could put the suitcases down.

The television in the cabin did not receive any channels; we were only able to watch rented VHS tapes, and the selection available was a bit outdated. We had seen all but two of the movies. Being in the midst of such natural beauty we would normally not watch much television, but in this case we were both sick and would have appreciated the opportunity to relax in bed and watch a little something.

The proximity of the resort to the Johnston Canyon Falls unfortunately put us in the middle of mosquito central, and we could not sit on the porch and enjoy the scenery. Every time we came back into the cabin, we went through a ritual of dashing through the door, quickly shutting it, and then madly slapping at each other, the walls, and the air. Every night, we were tormented by the whining of mosquitoes as we tried to sleep. This is not a controllable issue for the operators of the resort, but it is something to bear in mind if you can't bear the buzzing.

Now that I have sounded overly critical, let me outline the good parts. The cabins are very cute and are nicely decorated with a slight vintage feel. The down duvet on our bed was warm and comfortable and the gas fireplace was a cozy way to warm the room a little in the evenings. The greatest selling point, in my opinion, is location, location, location. Johnston Canyon Resort is located on the scenic Bow Valley Parkway, away from the bustle of town and out of the major traffic flow. It is convenient to both Banff and Lake Louise, making a day trip to either quite easy.

The resort has its own restaurant and coffee shop, as well as a gift shop. It is right across the parking lot from the trail to the falls, which is a very popular hike. During the day the lot fills with other park visitors, so you may have to stay parked at your cabin and walk back down to the restaurant rather than stop on your way out for the day. All in all, I would describe Johnston Canyon Resort as clean and adequate, but nothing special.

I found Earl's to be a bit hard to characterize. After having barely eaten for the past couple of days, followed by the long flight from Georgia, we were half starved. We drove around for awhile looking for something promising, and finally could not wait a moment longer to eat. At this point, we were certainly not picky, but we could have been.

Earl's has just about everything. Salads, pizzas, sandwiches, steaks, stir fry--you name it. I settled on a cheesesteak, and my husband had the barbecued ribs and chicken. Both were quite good and served with a salad. The Caesar I had was soooo tasty. We left the restaurant satisfied, and the food was reasonably priced. The young and trendy waitstaff had donned cowboy hats for the occasion, and we listened to country music as we dined on the patio. The entire city really gets into the spirit of the Stampede, and Earl's was no exception. The whole experience was both tasty and fun.

Jasper Pizza Place on Connaught Drive features wood-fired pizza, and diners can select from a wide variety of toppings. When was the last time you had the option of asparagus on your pizza? The traditional items are available, of course, but if you're looking for something a little more exotic on your pie, this is the place to go.

We arrived at an odd time of day for Jasper Pizza. Strolling through town after our hike, we were drawn by the rooftop deck. We went inside to find that the restaurant has a self-service period between lunch and dinner, when guests order at the bar and then pick a seat. We got our own utensils, napkins, cheese shaker, etc., from a cart near the bar. The pizzas came up several at a time, and we had to figure out which one was ours and take it to the table, then find some plates. It felt a little odd to just help ourselves, but it was kind of nice to not have to wait for someone to serve us. The hard part was determining if we should tip the bartender and how much, since we did most of the work ourselves. We finally decided on a modest gratuity.

The pizza was quite good and just the thing after burning all those calories on our hike. The view from the rooftop deck is also great; we enjoyed looking at the mountains while we ate. We did encounter one phenomenon that carried throughout most of our visit to Canada: there are no free refills. Every soda will cost ya, so watch how much crushed pepper you put on your pizza!

Oh, my goodness! What is that wonderful smell?!? It's the bevy of baked goods at the Bear's Paw Bakery! The fresh-baked goodies are 100% delish, and everything looks so good that it's hard to choose. Also offered are gourmet coffees and teas, the perfect complement to whatever treat you choose. For the sweet tooth, there are items such as muffins, crumb cakes, and danishes. For those looking for a more savory option, try a ham-and-cheese muffin, a croissant, or one of the wonderful fresh breads.

There is limited seating at the dining counter or a few small tables. I would recommend getting a snack to-go and pulling up a park bench. The bakery is a popular place, but it is well worth the wait in line. Portions are plentiful and the staff friendly. Make this a stop for a quick breakfast or afternoon snack.

What can you say about the Stampede except "Yeehaw!" It’s ten days of bulls, broncs, hats and boots, rides and games, and cultural activities that all add up to one thing: one heck of a good time. You don’t have to be a cowpoke to appreciate all the things to see and do here. The entire city of Calgary gets in on the fun, and western wear is the uniform of the day.

Out-of-towners like us can take the C-train all the way to Stampede Park, eliminating the need for navigating Calgary’s streets (and all those speed/red light cameras!) as well as saving a bundle on parking fees. Once there, just follow the herd through the gates and the adventure is on! Tickets are available at the gate or in advance through Ticketmaster. We found that having tickets in hand saved us some time and got us better seats at the grandstand.

This is the county fair smack in the middle of a large, modern city. The midway games, the rides, the corndogs, and the 4-H livestock competitions are all there. You can stroll for hours, looking over the animals, watching the competitions, and eating yourself into oblivion and only scratch the surface. There are galleries of Canadian art, educational displays, and demos on everything from crop science to sheep shearing, and hats, hats, hats. If you’re not properly decked out upon arrival, you will be when you leave. Western wear abounds, as well as souvenirs of every description. This year even featured a new event for the Stampede – a medieval joust!

Of course, the main event that everyone must see is the rodeo. We had a great time sitting up in the grandstand with an ice cold beer, watching the cowboys do their thing. For those who have not been to a rodeo before, the announcers will explain it all. We also spent an afternoon watching the chuckwagon races, a frontier-era must for any western aficionado. It was great!

Do be aware that food and beverages inside Stampede Park can be fairly expensive. If you are looking for a good, sit-down meal, you’d best eat before you go. While the variety is extensive, it is all fair food, so bring your corndog and burger appetite. Also, surprisingly, you’re not gettin’ any Canadian beer in there. Budweiser, one of the major sponsors, has dibs on the beer contract. Your sweet tooth will rejoice amidst the plethora of fried and frozen confections, though. Grab one in the heat of the day and head into the Saddledome to watch the stock dog trials or team roping competitions. There might not be any Calgary Flames ice on the rink, but the arena is still a climate-controlled refuge from the heat of the summer day.

Most importantly, you’ve got to spend all day (or preferably, more than one) to really get a feel for what the Stampede is all about. So put on your hat and point yer boots straight into the fun!

Getting from Calgary to Jasper in a rental car is more fun than you might think, especially when you take the Icefields Parkway. The Trans-Canada Highway starts out in Calgary like any other major highway, but as you leave the city behind the scenery opens up into beautiful open country followed by views of stunning peaks. Just north of Lake Louise, the highway splits and you have the option to go on toward Yoho or jump off onto the Icefields Parkway. I would recommend the latter. You can still make good time moving at an average of 70kmh while enjoying some of the most dramatic scenery that nature has to offer. The well-maintained highway climbs past views of gorgeous mountains, glaciers, valleys, and vivid azure lakes. If you're lucky, you may even see a mountain goat or two grazing alongside the road.

Make a stop at the Icefields Information Center to pick up brochures, use the restroom, and have a bite to eat. This large facility has a large buffet and a cafeteria-style dining facility that should assuage most appetites. Once you've got the necessities covered, take some time to walk around and take in the excellent exhibits on glaciers and the surrounding ecosystem. Visitors here can learn how a glacier forms, how the landscape has changed over time, what wildlife can be seen in the area, and how the early explorers survived in these harsh environs. We found it a bit crowded but enjoyed the exhibits all the same. Glacier tours via snocoach are also available for a fee. We decided to save the $35 and move on.

For those whose tummies are still rumbling or whose vehicles are beginning to sputter, there is another stop at Saskatchewan Crossing. Here you can buy gas, get a snack, or buy souvenirs. We were amused for probably a good 20 minutes just walking around and looking at the multitude of plastic Mounties, T-shirts, and maple candies offered for sale. This is the only gas stop in the middle of the parkway, so everything is priced accordingly. If you are looking for souvenirs, wait. We found much better stuff at much better prices once we reached our destination.

The Icefields Parkway was designed with the traveler in mind. The wide shoulders and frequent pull-off vistas provide ample opportunities to stop and soak in the scenery. Wildlife watching is also a possibility, but as the Parks Canada folks will tell you, it is best done from the car. Remember that these are wild animals and that you should never approach them, even for a quick snapshot. Also, pulling your car right up in front of the fauna might get you attacked by a creature of the two-legged variety whose view you are blocking. It may take five hours, but the drive on the Icefields Parkway is worth every second. Slow down to the speed limit and take the time to really see what’s around you. I bet you’ll be glad you did!

On our first day out and about in Jasper National Park, we awoke to find a persistent misting rain clouding our view of just about everything. For whatever reason, we chose to go to Mt. Edith Cavell and "see what there is to do there." We donned our foul weather gear, loaded up our day packs, and slogged out into the mist, not knowing what we would see, but hoping that it would be good.

We found the trailhead for Path of the Glacier and started out, imagining that somehow the weather would clear up a bit and we would not have to hike in the rain. Trudging through the dampened scree, we occasionally looked at each other uncertainly, but both of us were determined to have a good time. I plodded along, thinking about the landscape and how so much of it in the immediate area was all one color - and wet. The view of Angel Glacier was constant, but as we covered more distance, our winged apparition grew tremendously in size, wings spreading over us in an all-encompassing arc. Then, suddenly, we glimpsed the crumbling edge of Cavell Glacier and its pool of mysterious green water. We were captivated for a long while by the icebergs floating across the glacial waters and sheer size of the ice mass itself.

Once we'd had our fill of the glaciers, we hiked on into Cavell Meadows. The rain and mist drifted quietly through the deep green spruce and fir forest, and along the edges of the trail, small flowers poked through a lush carpet of moss. There was something magical about the drifting atmosphere, as if I'd stepped into a fairytale. We were afforded some lovely views, until the increasing rain called a halt to our adventure. Someday I would love to go back and see the meadows in the sunlight, just to find out what secrets they were hiding under that blanket of mist.

Maligne Canyon - it has a somewhat foreboding ring to it, doesn't it? Never fear, though. It is not so ominous as the name may make it seem. The canyon, touted as one of the most impressive in the Canadian Rockies, is easily accessible to reasonably able-bodied people of all ages. A short, hard-surfaced 1.7-mile trail curls through the canyon, affording views from both the top and bottom of the mysterious curving walls. Cut through the stone by ages of rushing glacial water, the canyon today is a visual feast of contours and colors. Bridges and walkways with open railings afford views of the cascading waters from every angle, and beautiful green vegetation springs toward the sun from every crevice and silt-covered ledge. In some places it is almost a hanging garden, roots creeping over the canyon edge and tumbling downward in the search for more soil, more moisture, and more nourishment.

This is a very popular trail, and one that lends itself to brief stops by tour operators. Beware the tour bus invasion in the afternoon; you may have to compete for a space at the railing. If you do happen to arrive, as we did, at a rather busy time of day, follow the trail beyond the hard surface portion and past the crowds. Most visitors are unwilling to venture too far, as many are worried that the return trip uphill will be too much to bear. You can still get some great views of the canyon from the lower part of the trail, including a couple of springlike areas where water burst forth from its underground journey out of Medicine Lake. If you prefer to start with a climb and save the downhill for the return trip, there is a parking area at the "bottom" of the trail. If you find yourself in need of a drink or a snack, there is a restaurant at the upper parking area.

One of our desires while visiting the Canadian Rockies was to see some wildlife we don't often encounter. As much as we hated it, we simply had to do the stupid tourist thing and look for those charismatic macrofauna.

One of the best places we found to have a wildlife encounter was the Bow Valley Parkway. The scenic route into Banff, the parkway meanders through both forests and meadows. This combined with the lesser flow of traffic provides a greater chance for viewing a greater number of species. We drove this road every evening even if we weren't going into the Banff Townsite, just to look for wildlife along the side. Even if we did not see anything, the drive itself was relaxing.

Along the Bow Valley Parkway we saw one of the huge attractions of the Canadian Rockies: elk, elk, and more ELK! They were typically on the roadside grazing, often snatching big mouthfuls of tender white daisies. We were usually able to sit in the car across the road from them and watch as they ignored us. We did, however, encounter one habituated elk that came a little too close. We could see that he had a red ear tag, often an indicator of problem behavior. I was leaning across my husband, taking photos through the open car window. When that elk saw me he began to approach, and eventually he got so close that we were about to leave. Too many instances of being fed from car windows had probably led him to believe that dinner was on us. Thankfully, my protests and lack of goodies made him lose interest and he sauntered off again. This is why it is so very important to follow Parks Canada's guidelines and stay one bus length away from elk at all times. You should certainly never approach on foot. Enjoying these majestic animals from a distance is better for everyone involved, including the elk.

We also saw a couple of black bear and some mule deer along the road, but none were quite as impressive or willing to linger as the beautifully antlered elk.

The Plain of the Six Glaciers trail is a moderate to difficult trail beginning at the Chateau Lake Louise. The trail starts out at a very easy grade, skirting the shore of Lake Louise. At the far end of the lake, the trail begins to climb, gradually becoming more difficult.

The trail offers views of Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy, as well as the ever-diminishing Lake Louise. This is a good opportunity to snap a photo of the entire lake framed by the surrounding landscape. It is on this trail that you are able to view the fantastic scenery at a different scale than that seen from the hotel plaza.

For those who can tough out the inclines, the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House awaits as a special treat. This structure was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the 1920s to provide for the needs of those guests who sought a day of adventure outside the grounds of their hotels. The tea house is still run today in much the same way as it was in the last century, with the exception of the Tibetan prayer flags strung above the main door. Visitors here may enjoy a variety of teas, as well as light food items such as sandwiches, soups, and scones. I recommend the latter. The freshly baked scones with honey and butter were simply divine, as was the blackberry tea.

Hikers who can handle the open heights may venture beyond the tea house onto the plain itself. Trudging up a narrow spine of talus will bring you to a glittering seasonal waterfall, as well as views of Aberdeen, Pope, Upper and Lower Lefroy, and Upper and Lower Victoria Glaciers. You may also be able to glimpse the roof of Abbott Hut high above in Abbott Pass. In the summertime, you may hear the thunderous sound of a glacier cracking and sending an avalanche over the precipice. It is truly an awesome experience.

From the air, it could be any other city, until that familiar sight looms into view. Anyone who watched the 1988 Winter Olympic Games knows the Calgary Tower – the 190.8m tower that glowed with the light of the Olympic flame. It stands today just as it has since 1968, watching quietly over this city in southern Alberta and its annual 10-day shindig, the Calgary Stampede. The Ferris wheel, the big top, the miniaturized milling crowds – all of this stretched out below us in an inviting expanse of fun. We were going to enjoy this.

When we flew into Calgary International Airport on July 10, the Stampede was in full swing. The moment we stepped through the gate, the terminal was abuzz with talk of bulls, broncs, and cowboy hats. The sounds of country music drew us on as we collected our baggage and followed the herd toward the rental car counters. Much to our surprise, we turned a corner and were greeted by a whole bevy of folks in Western wear carrying curious little sticks in their hands. Unable to help ourselves, we let the herd sweep us toward them, wondering just what in the world they were doing. Like prime Alberta beef cattle, we were trapped and poked with those little sticks before we even knew what was happening. I looked down, and sure enough, there it was on my hand in bright red ink – "CS". We had been branded. My new husband and I had just become the official property of the Calgary Stampede. This was to be a vacation that would leave its mark on us in a variety of memorable ways. Much to our delight, we discovered that Canada is, in fact, our very friendly neighbor to the north.

I could live in Jasper. At least, I could live in Jasper in the summertime. I wasn't really sure what to expect from the Jasper Townsite, but after a few trips in to eat, shop, or just kill some time, I fell in love with this tiny little community.

The main bulk of what most visitors would consider "the town" is about 2 blocks deep and 5 or 6 blocks long. The shops, restaurants, and park information center cling to the main drags of Connaught Drive and Patricia Street, drawing the majority of travelers into one small area. While I enjoyed what these establishments had to offer, it was the back streets of Jasper that really charmed my senses.

Dropping back a block or two from the sometimes bustling front streets, Jasper Townsite begins to look less like a destination and more like a home. Small houses and even smaller condo-style units are tucked in wherever possible without seeming too crowded. Perhaps it is the large scale of the mountain scenery that makes even the tightest row of dwellings look like an insignificant intrusion on the landscape. The recreation field, activity centre, and high school all crouch unassumingly behind the rows of shops, almost invisible to the un-inquisitive eye. According to local literature, Parks Canada has been fighting expansion in the communities within Jasper and Banff and a "need to reside" policy limits infiltration by new residents who might push for more housing and businesses. As for me, I like Jasper the way it is - or the way it was when we arrived.

I can't help but feel that we witnessed a historic event in our travels through the town. One day, we waited patiently at a stop sign. The next day, we scooted around some heavy equipment at the roadside. Then, one day, there it was - a traffic light. Whether this might have been a long-awaited replacement signal I cannot say, but I suspect that in fact, we did witness the first traffic light to go up in Jasper Townsite. It was a bit sad, really, to see such a quaint little town suddenly take that one small step toward... bigness and change. One thing I liked best about Jasper was its sense of sleepiness and removal from the rest of the world. Even the movie theater seemed to fit into the profile of the town, not affecting its character. This light, however, this monstrosity, if you will, didn't seem to fit at all. This was not your small town signal that dangles on a wire, lights pointed in all directions from a single box. This was a multi-part system mounted to black steel arms that reached out over the street and demanded to be looked at. While I know that traffic safety demands this growth and that even small towns like Jasper must change with time, I cannot help but feel a little lump of sadness for the loss of that one small bit of character. That one slight concession to the 21st century seemed to bring with it so much uncertainty about the days ahead. Many years from now, when I am able to return once again to Jasper, I hope that I will find the heart of its character unchanged. I hope that despite the trappings of new times and new technologies, it will remain, at its core, a sleepy little town drowsing away in the mountains of Alberta.