Discovering Santiago de Chile

Chile's former dictator and president, General Augusto Pinochet, stifled artistic expression and appreciation throughout Chile from 1973-1990 and caused many deaths and disappearances of citizens and notable artists and musicians. Awakening from this recent turbulent history, Santiago is coming alive artistically and, most notably, on the streets.

Every major intersection is occupied by extremely talented acrobats, mimes and jugglers, and artists performing for spare change from the waiting cars. Stencil graffiti artists leave their mark on the walls of downtown buildings, displaying powerful images which stick in the minds of pedestrians.

Summertime (November through February) brings theater to the streets. Actor guilds and university theater groups perform free shows outside in parks and plazas, with varying topics from political to romance.

The most exciting display of artistic expression in Santiago occurs in the Parque Forestal, between the Museo Bellas Artes and the Mapocho River, on Sunday afternoon and evenings. Here, Santiago's colorful youth come out to hang out and be seen. A craft/flea market sets up along the river, hawking used retro clothing, rock tapes and CDs, handmade jewelry, etc. Dozens of jugglers gather to practice, show off, and share ideas. Drum circles form throughout the park, creating rhythmic beats and inspiring modern dancing. It's fun to sit and watch the punk, goth, hippy, and other cultures come together to express themselves in style and art.

Quick Tips:

The best time to visit Santiago is the summertime, between November and February. The weather is dry and hot, a comfortable climate to be outside and enjoy the many parks and plazas the city has to offer. Winter can be cold and smoggy.

Best Way To Get Around:

Santiago's public transportation is phenomenal. The newly built, French-designed metro is easy to use, safe, and very clean. There are four lines that run across the city and stop at all major areas within the metropolitan area.

After the metro closes (10:30pm), you can take a micro, which run all night long. Micros are big yellow, noisy buses that create a significant amount of the pollution in Santiago. Look at the signs in the front window of the bus, which list street names and areas the bus go to. Riding micros can be a fun way to mingle with and meet the locals. Plans are underway to replace the micros with new Volvo buses that cause less pollution.

If you are shy of crowds, taxis are also an efficient, but more expensive, way to get around. Though, if you are sharing the cab with a few other people, it can be a cheap way to get home from the bars.

The Hotel Foresta is a friendly, clean, comfortable, and moderately priced place to stay in Santiago. It’s located in the neighborhood Santa Lucia, right next to the lush park in downtown Santiago. I stayed here for a week when I first got to the city, due to its close proximity to my job. The staff is all very friendly, especially the doorman, who is very chatty and collects coins from around the world. He found out that I am a journalism student and brought me an array of newspapers and guides of Santiago. The top floor of the hotel is a stylish piano bar and restaurant with an outdoor patio. They have a great continental breakfast with fresh-squeezed orange juice. For $20 a night, it’s a great choice.

This is my favorite place to eat in Santiago. The atmosphere isn't spectacular, but the sushi is to die for. Monday to Saturday after 8pm, the menu is half-price, and delicious sushi rolls filled with fresh fish and wrapped in avocado or salmon are only $2 for eight pieces.

The staff is nice. I left my expensive camera there once, and they locked it up for me and had it waiting when I came back the next day. It's directly across from the movie theater Cine Hoyts, so it's a good place to go before a movie.

Chile's most productive winery, Concha y Toro, which makes the world-famous Casillero del Diablo, is an hour bus ride from Santiago. The winery was established in the late 1800s and thrives today as a beautiful vineyard, which is open to the public for tours and tastings. A $6 charge at the door gets you a wine glass etched with the company's name; a tour of the impressive estate, vineyard, gardens, and cellars; and samples of the many wine varieties. Tours begin at 11:30am and 3pm on weekdays, and at 10am and noon on Saturdays.

To get there, take the metro to Bellavista de la Florida (last stop on the green line). Inside the metro station is a metro bus terminal. Take metro bus no. 74 and ask the driver to let you off at Concha y Toro.

Cafe Escondido is a perfect place to go for a drink, hang out with a group of friends, or settle in for a romantic evening. It sits in a cozy "hidden" corner in Santiago's center with an intimate feel. You can sit outside and enjoy the ambiance of the artsy neighborhood, and when night falls, tiki torches and candels create magnificent lighting. If you'd rather sit inside or have a large group, there's plenty of room downstairs and upstairs. Kinky-tribal paintings and prints decorate the walls and serve as interesting conversation pieces.

They have tasty Pisco sours, beers, and a full bar of international liquor, though often they're out of specific liquors listed on their menu. If you're hungry for a bite, there is an excellent plate of sautéed mushrooms on toast, as well as other sandwiches and soups. Cafe Escondido is a fun place to have a drink, relax and hang out with friends. I found myself coming to this bar over and over, mostly because of the friendly, cozy atmosphere and its tucked away location makes you feel like you're part of a fantastic, secret club.

El Centro Artenesal de los Dominicos is a mock village housing artists and their studios, where they work and sell their crafts directly to the public in quaint houses surrounding the famous church, Los Dominicos. The church appears on the Chilean 2,000 peso bill.

The crafts here are of high quality, including pottery, jewelry, paintings, tile work, and leather goods. It's fun to roam around and watch the artists at work. The setting is beautiful, with lush gardens, cafés, and an art gallery. The prices are high, but not unreasonable, due to the quality of the work. Folk music and dancing occurs on the weekends. It's open 11am to 7:30pm daily. The best way to get there is take a micro from the Alameda or 11 de Septiembre with LOS DOMINICOS on the front.

La Casa en el Aire is a cosy bar hosting live music nightly. Located in the bustling nightlife neighborhood Bellavista, the atmosphere and decor is inviting. Folk art and photographs of revolutionaries, like Che Guevara and Zapatista Marcos, adorn the walls. It's small and intimate, so the proximity to the performers makes for a great live experience. If you're hungry, there is a small menu with delicious tables (spreads of finger food). The wine and other drinks are good and not too pricy. It's a great place to go with friends, on a date, or even by yourself. The crowd is always chill, and it’s a nice place to enjoy some local music.

The Ilya Havana has a live Cuban band most nights, drawing crowds and salsa dancers. Barrio Suecia is an americanized strip of flashy clubs and bars. Ilya Havana is the only one of these bars with a gringo-free ambiance, although you may see a few of them amoung the locals. The band is sensational and the music perfect for stretching your salsa muscles. The scene doesn't get going till late, so if you arrive at midnight, you're just in time to start dancing the night away. One of several salsa spots in the city, this one is my favorite.