Adventures in Cayo

The highlight for me was meeting David of David's Adventure Tours. He was the only operator in the guidebook listed as independent, so that sold me right away. After comparing prices, I decided that the extra few dollars was worth it. The knowledge of history David shares is fascinating and priceless.

Quick Tips:

For budget travelers, the amount of activities here will break the bank. Save your pennies.

Best Way To Get Around:

As much as I dislike organized tours, it is almost impossible to navigate this area on your own. Signing up for any on of David's tours is like going with a group of friends and an experienced guide. The town is easily navigated on foot, and the small Mayan site of Cahal Pech, although atop a steep hill, is walkable from town.

This clean and easily found guesthouse sits atop Erva's restaurant. Climbing the steps lands you on a porch covered with vines and plants. The living room area has a TV with cable, a couch, and a couple of chairs. Upon entering, the desk was unattended, but the travelers who were hanging out informed me that the owners lived next door. I rang the bell and a boy of about 14 came over. He gave me a key but did not take payment or any information from me, typical of the trusting and laid-back attitude in Belize. The next morning, I had to ring the bell again to pay.

My room was huge, with one double bed and a twin, desk, and closet. The in-room bathroom was decorated with beautiful tile and had a large shower. The price is affordable at $20 for one person, but is a steal when sharing the cost with another traveler. Large windows and a fan help fight off the muggy heat of the rainy season, but there is no air-conditioner. This place has the feel of a hostel for adults, with signs asking you to clean up after yourself and for the last one in to lock the door. There is no kitchen or Internet access, but there is a book exchange.

Colorful Eva's is the spot for information about tours of the area. The walls are covered with artwork and pictures of local lodging and attractions. A guidebook warns of the "surly service," and it's not a lie, but just take it with a smile. The owner, Bob, did warm up after a bit of chatting, and he is full of valuable tips.

After a simple and cheap sandwich on the patio, I decided to use the internet. With time to spare after checking my email, I was curious what information was available on IgoUgo about San Ignacio. Bob appeared over my shoulder and smugly asked why I was using the Internet when he could answer all my questions. I told him about this site and proceeded to pull up the review of Eva's. He seemed unimpressed but curious that someone had written about his restaurant on the Internet. Once you get him comfortable and talking, you'll find him to be an informative and interesting character, so belly up to the bar with a local rum drink and decide the next day's adventure.

Bypassing the busy dining room, outfitted with traditional decor, I was led down slippery steps to the outdoor patio. The evening storm had passed not taking much of the heat with it. Funnily enough, two other female travelers, who I had met on Caye Caulker and ran into at Eva's that afternoon, were finishing up their meal. We all ended up going camping together. It’s truly a small world, especially in Belize.

Once they left, I was alone on the patio lit by strewn white lights and surrounded by tall palms. The music did not match the atmosphere by any means. The ever-present ‘80s hits would be the only thing I would change.

The menu listed many choices for vegetable, meat, or fish curry for about $5. The waiter was a bit rushed, finishing up the dinner rush inside, but he was very polite and attentive. I chose a veggie curry, full of carrots, onions, zucchini, carrots, and potatoes atop saffron Sri Lankan rice served, with a small salad topped with Italian dressing. I took my time enjoying the mix of spicy flavors.

When I was leaving, the dining room was empty, so I took a few pictures while explaining to the owners what the photos were for. They are a friendly couple who seemed thrilled I was going to write about them on the Internet. The husband promptly went to get a business card, while his wife inquired about my meal. I assured them that everything was delicious and I would recommend Serendib's highly.

The opportunity to camp on David's ancestral land was something I could not pass up. After shopping at the market, two other women and I piled into the truck with Dave at the wheel. Shortly out of town, we stopped in a modern residential neighborhood to buy fresh bread from the baker herself. On our way again, David showed us another area of his family's land that still bears the name Negroman Farm and the sprawling hacienda of the "toilet paper king." We turned onto his "driveway," a path through an orange grove, as the sweet smell of orange blossoms filled the air. To reach the campground, you must first cross the river. My shoes would have slipped me into the river, so Dave lent me his. As he crossed with all our belongings in the canoe, I slowly made my way in the swift-moving, shin-deep water. Next, you must climb over 200 steps lined with bright flowers and plants. I was pleasantly surprised to see sturdy palapas, built by Dave, instead of tents. As we caught our breath, David and his worker started preparing dinner. The girls and I enjoyed the view of the distant green mountains and listened to the birds overhead. Creeping around with my binoculars trained in the palms, I was finally rewarded with a brilliant view of parrots.

As dusk settled, we gathered around the table David had set, complete with candles. We filled our plates with rice and a tasty fish stew, fresh veggies, and bread. Probing David with questions until he fell into a comfortable story telling mode, he told us of Mayan Gods and the ancient ways. Through his stories of the land and sharing artifacts, the lives of the people that walked the same ground came alive. Coming back into the present, we took off on a short night hike to hunt for tarantulas. Off the path to the latrine, David spotted several of the hairy spiders with the flashlight. It was a little creepy, but what an awesome experience! Finally forcing myself to get into my comfy bed, I fell asleep listening to the sounds from the jungle.

Dawn brought a chorus, as the trees came alive with birds once again. With Dave standing by to catch, I knocked a mango down. I just had to eat the fruit right then while he prepared another delicious meal. Our plates came piled high with eggs scrambled with vegetables and chillies, bacon, fruit, and freshly made tortillas. After breakfast, we hiked around as Dave imparted more knowledge and pointed out pottery shards still on the ground after all these years. The telltale mounds of dirt hide secret treasures of the past, some of which only David has explored. My time here was a true highlight of my trip that I feel so lucky to have experienced. If you visit Cayo, you must meet David!