Finally the space in Maiden Lane's been filled--and how! It doesn't look like they're a chain, and they're not, but the owners also own the Rock Garden restaurant around the corner in Covent Garden. Yet the quality smoothies (banana and pecan anyone?), the varied wines on the menu and well considered salads are the first clue that this is no mere chain, nor Pizza Express; the lower prices make a serious impression as well. It's the quality of the pizzas though that is the other giveaway.
Themed by the cuisines of each continent, each pizza looks deep pan but doesn't taste it, is laden with entirely fresh toppings and is unconventional in what those ingredients are to say the least. Photographed is the Koh Samui pizza with a mostly green pesto base, but you might just as well have a hoi sin sauce base or have an Acapulco with more Mexican themes. Upshot is that the taste is terrific, and it doesn't break the bank.
Having been twice, I can say the service is improving, having started out overly eager and a bit too desperate to serve before you're ready. Not so the second time, when we ate upstairs in very comfortable, airy yet stylish surroundings. I'd strongly recommend it, and hope it stays around longer than many other similar restaurants tend to. Pizza Express needs the competition, and with prices so much lower than theirs, this place has a good shot at providing it.