Malta's unique pre-medieval city

1. A small footbridge resting on stone arches leads from the village of Rabat towards the upper Mdina Gate, an intricately sculptured stone portal with statues and tympanums on both sides. From here, a passageway on the left directs visitors towards a profusion of secluded alleys, often less than 1 metre wide but lined with unrestored pre-medieval residential buildings, cloisters and conventual chapels.

2. Even if you walk at random without map, somehow or other, you'll reach Mdina's main square where a couple of conspicuous buildings will definitely strike your attention. The highlight is Mdina's Cathedral, a huge reconstructed showpiece of Baroque architecture, ecclesiastical treasures and frescoes attributed to famous Italian painters.

3. While roaming aimlessly along the city's streets and passages, you will discover an admirable tunnel vault leading towards a balcony that projects over Mdina's defensive walls. From here, the view of Malta's northwest is excellent. More impressive is the view from Mdina's northernmost elevated piazza from where half of Malta's villages are clearly visible.

4. Museum enthusiasts should definitely head for the Cathedral's Treasury located a short distance away from the cathedral. It is a real treasure-trove of famous paintings, altarpieces, chasubles, chalices, monstrances and more.

Quick Tips:

1. Those who visit Malta for its wealth of historical sights and cultural venues should choose October or April, when day temperature and weather conditions are ideal for walking and loitering in the neighbourhood of a preferred attraction. Malta's hot summer is only suitable for beach lovers and water-sports enthusiasts.

2. Mdina's narrow streets are daily besieged by guided tourist groups who usually come here by coach. From 10am to 6pm, the crowds fill up the streets, squares and cultural sights of the city. Independent visitors should therefore come before 10am when the atmosphere is calm and devoid of the hustle and bustle of city life. Arriving early gives visitors an extra opportunity to discover for themselves a number of secluded spots, side chapels and solitary courtyards which would otherwise remain undisclosed.

3. All museums open daily from 9am to 5pm. The Cathedral's Treasury where visitors can get acquainted with priceless collections of 15th-century sacred art is definitely Mdina's top museum. Another museum that attracts the crowds is the Museum of Natural History, located inside a medieval palace behind the upper Mdina Gate. The rich collection of minerals in the geology section demands more than a single visit.

Best Way To Get Around:

1. From Valletta's City Gate bus terminus, frequent buses reach the village of Rabat in less than 30 minutes. From the Saqqajja stop, a short walk northeast brings you right in front of the upper Mdina Gate. The route for Bus 80 ends at the Saqqajja stop but note that this is not the end stop for Bus 81 and Bus 84 which continue towards Dingli and Mtarfa respectively. The fare from Valletta to Rabat is LM0.20.

2. Bus 65 makes a 40 minute trip to Rabat from the Sliema Strand bus terminus. A similar hourly bus service runs between Rabat and Qawra.

3. Mdina's streets are pedestrianised. The couple of cars you see parked here and there in the city belong to Mdina residents who require special entry permits. If you're using a self-drive car, it's advisable to park in the signposted parking space located a short distance away from the upper Mdina Gate.

4. If your time is limited, buy a walking map of Mdina before you start touring the city. On entering through the upper Mdina Gate, a souvenir shop on the left side sells detailed walking maps that direct you towards the main attractions.

An oasis of calm and relaxation; a place of tranquillity, atmosphere, and history. This describes to some extent Hotel Xara Palace, one of Malta's best five-star hotels and the only place of accomodation in Mdina. Squeezed on one side of a typical Maltese piazza which was formerly a monastery courtyard, Hotel Xara Palace occupies a palazzo which was reconstructed in 1530 replacing a much older conventual building.

There's no need to step inside to discover the hotel's perfect historical setting. Sculptured in stone on the left side of the building, you'll see the date of its reconstruction. Take your time to examine the hotel's main facade, an exclusive example of a restored piece of medieval Maltese architecture. Its beauty is manifested through its simple rustic design, the rows of symmetrical arched windows and the balustraded stone balconies which together impart to the building a monumental character and a chateau-style appearance.

A huge wooden door leads into the hotel's anteroom where the atmosphere of days past is enhanced by a collection of genuine antique furniture, fine paintings, manuscripts enclosed in showcases and shelves filled up with old ceramic figurines. The actual reception area lies to the left. Here the ambience is less formal, though still as fine and traditional as in the anteroom. The receptionists are friendly and helpful and from the start, they will try to make your stay at Xara Palace an experience long remembered.

Each of the hotel's 17 rooms boasts characteristic features that impart an air of peculiarity. No room resembles another but all are furnished with classic reproduct furniture, antique ceramic lampshades, gilded mirrors, thick-piled carpets and a couple of fine paintings. All this has been perfectly combined with the modern amenities one usually finds in a five-star hotel. Individual airconditioning, internet connection, cable television, safety deposit box, direct-dial telephone with bathroom extension, hair dryer and a luxury set of bath supplies are standard in all rooms.

The cheapest room which goes for US$200 has no view since this overlooks the hotel's internal courtyard. But for an extra US$50, clients can choose a room with a panoramic view that stretches out as far away as Valletta's harbour, and for an extra US$80, your room will have the facility of a panoramic terrace where you can relax amidst a profusion of well-manicured shrubs and climbers. If you can afford it, why not choose the hotel's most luxurious room? Called the Grand master's suite, it is a real extravaganza of self-indulgence, comfort and allurement.

For more luxury, step inside the Xara Palace a la carte restaurant. Here you can enjoy an evening of live classical music combined with the best Mediterranean food and wine Malta offers. The hotel's cocktail bar is also an ideal spot where you can while away the evening hours after a day of sightseeing. Free for hotel guests is the gym, sauna and relax centre, equipped with the latest exercise machines, steam baths and massage facilities.

Hanging over the extreme peak of Mdina's north bastions and crammed with Old Town atmosphere and charm, Fontanella is a cosy spot that offers much more than a cup of tea or a pint of beer. Located along a tiny medieval street that runs straight from Bastion Square towards Mdina's Cathedral, it is a place that offers an ideal combination of hospitality and good food.

Take Villegaignon Street, Mdina's main pedestrianised mall, and walk straight on for about 300m until you reach Bastion Square. Once here, take a sharp turn right and walk along the bastions for a couple of minutes. The first building you see on the left side is Fontanella. Clearly signposted and decorated with atmospheric wall-hanging street lamps, it can't be missed.

A huge doorway adorned with carved framing stonework leads into Fontanella's gracefully furnished summer courtyard. Somewhat below street level, this open-air space ideal for relaxation is shielded with brightly coloured parasols that hide an orderly arrangement of tables and chairs. The unpainted, worn-out walls are almost entirely covered up with a profusion of climbers, ferns, and palms, while the bordering space between the walls and the floor is lined with rows of blooming geraniums. The surrounding rooms cut out into the city's fortifications and illuminated solely by candlelight are ideal for those who want to stay away from disturbance in an atmosphere characterized by quietness and seclusion.

From Fontanella's courtyard, you can take the wooden steps to the splendid overhanging terrace, constructed right on Mdina's bastions. The gorgeous view from here over half of Malta's towns and villages is one reason why you should choose Fontanella for a one-off experience. More sun-shaded tables and greenery adorn the terrace, which becomes particularly attractive when the setting sun is sinking below the horizon.

My preferred Fontanella dish is a luxurious salad prepared with smoked salmon, juicy melon, and dill sprigs. Garnished with lemon slices and fresh basil leaves, it is served with walnut bread. A bottle of chilled Pinot Blanc that's dry and fruity is unquestionably the perfect complement to any salad dish served at Fontanella. Numerous imaginative dips served with crispy vegetables and freshly baked rolls are equally tasty and delicious. End up with a slice of Fontanella cake, a wafer-like sponge stuffed with fresh cherries, hazelnuts, and cream.

If you want to taste Fontanella's excellent range of hot beverages and delicious pastries, be here before 5pm. Specializing in coffee, Fontanella offers the widest range of coffee drinks in Malta. Cappuccino, espresso, stretto, macchiato, lungato, and more than a dozen special coffee drinks are readily available.

Fontanella is open daily from 10am to 10pm. Summer dinners are accompanied by piano music.

No visitor to Malta should miss the experience of walking through the quiet streets of Mdina, filled with medieval palaces, conventual churches, and tiny squares, all enclosed into a world of charm and magic by massive defensive walls. Mdina is unique since it is the only spot on the island that has retained a purely old Maltese flavour. The cosmopolitan influence of the ruling Knights of St. John did little to change the face of the city, which remained a closed province for the Maltese nobility.

There are three gates allowing entrance into the city. The upper Mdina Gate, reconstructed in 1724 by Grand master de Vilhena, who was responsible for strengthening the city's fortifications, is a massive stone structure adorned with intricate sculptures and statues. Also known as Notabile Gate to denote that its former right of access was enjoyed solely by the Maltese nobility, it is still one of Mdina's major landmarks, though it is asking for urgent restoration. The Greek Gate, an atmospheric tunnel vault cut into the city's south walls was named after the small colony of Greeks who lived in the area. On the west side of Mdina's defensive walls, there is a third gate, known by the locals as "the hole in the wall." Constructed when Malta's steam railway was in operation, it allowed an easier access to the nearby railway station, now occupied by a flourishing dinner-dance restaurant.

You can use any of the three gates to enter the city. But for practical purposes, most visitors use the upper Mdina Gate, which lies within earshot of the Rabat bus terminus. Pass over the stone bridge and through the arched gateway to enter the city. The picturesque piazza, named St. Publius Square, just behind the gate, is a frequent open-air venue for light-hearted musical performances. The huge building on the left is Palazzo Vilhena, a magnificent baroque structure reconstructed to replace an older building that was devastated by a great earthquake in 1693. Formerly used by the British as a military hospital and later as a recreation centre, it is now occupied by the Museum of Natural History. The exhibits inside include two vast collections of world butterflies and seashells and a rich geology section. Even if you are not visiting the museum, take your time to see the museum's front courtyard adorned with intricately carved stonework, arched walkways, and busts of Grand masters.

Squeezed between Palazzo Vilhena and Mdina Gate are the Mdina Dungeons, an underground attraction sited inside real medieval cave-like dungeons. Visitors who come here will be given the opportunity to discover for themselves the island's shocking past illustrated through a series of dramatic episodes and mysterious events spanning from Roman times to the start of the British colonial rule in 1800. Life-size figures in period costumes, and gripping sounds and dramatic lighting create an eerie atmosphere.

A quick left turn from St. Publius Square directs visitors towards Mdina's principal street, which divides the city roughly into two and runs for about 300m from north to south. Named Villegaignon Street, this contains along its length the finest and the grandest buildings within the old capital. The first building that imparts an air of grandeur and splendour to the city is Casa Inguanez, the former home of the oldest aristocratic Maltese family. Opposite Casa Inguanez is the Chapel of St. Peter, which forms part of the adjoining nunnery of St. Benedict. Here, about 20 nuns live in total isolation, devoting their days to prayer. The nunnery cannot be visited, but the chapel opens daily when there is no church service. The highlight inside is the altarpiece, an exquisite masterpiece by the famous painter Mattia Preti.

From here, a short distance farther north brings you near Casa Testaferrata, another huge building that formerly belonged to another noble Maltese family. Note the intricate framing stonework that surrounds the windows and the wonderful carvings that adorn the front balcony. If you walk a short distance north, you'll reach Mdina's huge central square, where a diverse mixture of architectural beauties await visitors.

Known as St. Paul Square, this vast space is lined with buildings whose diverse architectural styles echo the last 500 years of Mdina's history. The structure on the right is the Banca Giuratale, an imposing edifice where Malta's former administrative and legislative bodies met for several years. After the Maltese revolted against the French, it was used as headquarters by Malta's national assembly. Adjoining this but withdrawn backwards a couple of metres, Mdina's most elaborately sculptured balconies and framing stonework adorn an otherwise rustic construction that dates back to the 13th century. The huge adjacent building on the east corner of the square is the former Archbishop's seminary. Constructed in 1733, it is an exercise in Sicilian-style architecture. Note the beautiful arched doorway supported on a pair of Atlas-like statues. It now houses the Cathedral's Treasury, an outstanding ecclesiastical museum that exhibits an impressive cross-section of paintings, coin collections, original documents, wood engravings, and more.

The left side of the square is taken over by two adjacent buildings. Casa Gourgion, recently renovated, is a fine example of simple Maltese-style architecture. Next to it is a residential building that contrasts highly with each and every building in the city. An unusual example of fine Victorian Gothic architecture built during the British rule, it is imposing and beautiful but completely out of place on Cathedral square.

Visitors tend to run towards the cathedral, which occupies the east side of the square. Mdina's Cathedral, set on an elevated plateau above the level of the square, is unquestionably the most impressive structure here. But visitors are advised not to miss the other surrounding buildings, which together give a remarkable picture of Malta's diverse medieval architectural heritage. (See my next entry: Mdina's Cathedral and the Cathedral's Treasury.)

After touring St. Paul Square and visiting Mdina's Cathedral, continue north along Villegaignon Street. The rustic, worn-out building you see on the left just after leaving the square is Palazzo Santa Sofia. Dating back to 1233 and constructed in Siculo-Norman style, it is the oldest building in the city. A short distance farther north, two churches face each other. On the right side, the small baroque church of St. Roque has a couple of interesting interior features and curiosities that lovers of church architecture will definitely admire. On the left side, the bigger Carmelite Church, which forms part of a plain conventual building, is associated with the anti-French riots that started here in September 1798 and led to the start of the British colonial rule. The interesting paintings and frescoes inside are original works by Stefano Erardi and Michele Bellanti.

The most interesting medieval building in Mdina is the 14th-century Palazzo Falzon, located some distance farther north along Villegaignon Street. Notice its meticulously restored architectural details. The double arched windows decorated with intricately carved framing stonework and the rows of triangular corbels supporting fine patterned cornices are particularly impressive. Step inside and admire unique architectural treasures, original antique Maltese furniture, ceiling frescoes, and an extravagance of fine paintings.

A couple of metres farther north, Villegaignon Street opens into Bastion Square, an atmospheric Maltese-style piazza that offers a spectacular view from its northernmost elevated platform. A wonderful, dreamy spot on the extreme peak of Mdina's fortifications, it is the place to be if you want to taste the best of Malta's romantic summer nights in an atmosphere of tranquillity and peace of mind.

Mdina is, of course, much more than this. Take your time to explore the city's dead lanes, cul-de-sacs, tiny secluded piazzas, and narrow streets. Every turn is remarkable and picturesque; every building has retained a delightful Maltese flavour sprinkled with doses of Old Town charm.

No visit to Malta is complete unless you visit Mdina's Cathedral, a huge reconstructed edifice that crowns the steep hill on which the city was raised up. While going uphill by bus towards Rabat, look on your right and you will be rewarded with an excellent view of the cathedral's dome and backside projecting over Mdina's east defensive walls. This postcard-pretty display of architectural beauty and outstanding stonework is particularly impressive after sunset when the cathedral's red-roofed dome and the underlying fortifications are illuminated by spotlights.

Dedicated to St.Paul, Mdina's Cathedral stands on the site of a former house that belonged to Malta's Roman governor Publius who was converted to Christianity by St.Paul in A.D.60. When Count Roger the Norman conquered Malta in 1090, he started work on the city. The former house of Publius was immediately replaced by a medium-sized basilica, a church with two side aisles, each separated from the nave by a row of eight Corinthian columns. Enlarged later with a transept and a choir, it was the only significant medieval church on the island. Unluckily, a great earthquake devastated Malta in 1693 and demolished extensively Count Roger's basilica. Though most of the artistic works inside were destroyed and lost for ever, a handful still remain. A couple of these are now on display inside the cathedral while the others are preserved inside the Cathedral's Treasury, forming part of a priceless collection of antique works of sacred art.

Work on the present cathedral, designed by the Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa started in 1697. Completed after 5 years, it is Gafa's Baroque masterpiece. Having acquired a great deal of practical experience after designing and constructing a number of churches elsewhere, Gafa realized that a cathedral within an old capital should be monumental and imposing but not ostentatious and gaudy. To produce a balance between greatness and austerity, he designed a massive facade of exact proportions, decorated with plain unfluted pilasters and crowned with a simple raking pediment. The large areas of masonry between adjacent pilasters was left undecorated. The dominating centrepiece is set slightly forward from the side wings which carry two richly sculptured squat towers. All is set on an elevated plateau above the level of the sloping square. This simple but imposing facade attains perfection when viewed as a foreground to the cathedral's impressive dome, a wonderful octagonal structure supported on serried rows of coupled pilasters and decorated with massive folding scrolls.

Lovers of church architecture will definitely admire the cathedral's exterior for its simple but imposing design. More admirable is however the cathedral's vast interior which houses lavish displays of marble, splendid ceiling frescoes and a profusion of artistic works in silver and wood.

The cathedral welcomes visitors daily when there is no church service. This is usually between 9:30am and 5pm. On Sundays and public holidays, church service continues up to noon and so try to refrain from visiting on these days. No guides are available to show you around and entry is free of charge but donations for the upkeep of the cathedral are welcome.

Once inside, the first thing that strikes the attention of visitors is the splendid array of fine marble tombstones that cover completely the floor of the cathedral. Decorated with coloured inserts of rich Italian marble and artistic displays of first-class workmanship, they echo more than 300 years of history. Examine the epitaphs written in Latin on the gravestones and you will find out numerous names of former Maltese bishops, barons and noblemen who have in some way or another contributed towards the embellishment of the cathedral.

Take your time to explore the magnificent frescoes that fill up the ribbed ceiling of the cathedral. The monumental altarpieces that decorate the high altar and the side chapels are equally impressive. The artistic fresco covering the semi-dome of the apse is 'The Shipwreck of St.Paul' by Mattia Preti, a great Italian artist whose works compel respect, admiration and excitement. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament located at the far end of the right aisle is adorned with a lighter ceiling composition painted by the Maltese artist Francesco Zahra. Choirs and hosts of angels invade the chapel's hemispherical dome while biblical episodes related to the Holy Eucharist fill up all the remaining spaces, creating together an aura of reverence and celestial bliss. Also by Francesco Zahra is the fresco that adorns the ceiling of the Chapel of the Holy Crucifix. Darker and more dramatic than that found inside the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, it depicts the Blessed Trinity set against a glowing golden yellow sky. A sense of glory is emphasized by a plethora of saints in various poses of adoration. Among these are St.Peter and St.Paul, both in brightly coloured attires and easily recognizable. Piled tier upon tier, other groups of saints that include the evangelists Luke and Matthew, St.Joseph and St.John the Baptist impart an atmosphere of exuberance and opulence to the whole scenario.

One of the most interesting and historical items you can still see inside the cathedral is a silver processional cross of medieval workmanship. Brought here by the Knights of St.John after being compelled to leave Rhodes, this cross is said to have accompanied Godfrey de Bouillon in 1099 on his entry into Jerusalem during the First Crusade. It is a genuine piece of old artistic silverware that demands more than a brief look. More cherished than this both for its historic and aesthetic values is a unique icon of Our Lady, reputedly painted by St.Luke the evangelist. Placed above the altar in the chapel to the left of the apse, it is adorned with jewelled encrustations that have been added as votive donations over the years by devotees of Our Lady. One more appealing item that visitors shouldn't miss is the original 900 year-old door that leads into the cathedral's vestry. Carved from Irish bog-wood and adorned with strange unusual symbols, it dates back to Count Roger's earlier basilica.

After touring the cathedral, cross Archbishop street and make your way towards the Cathedral's Treasury. Housed inside a former seminary, it is unquestionably Mdina's best museum. The building itself is worth exploring for its wealth of distinctive architectural features and interesting characteristics.

More impressive are the outstanding exhibits, a source of delight for lovers of history and culture. The section dedicated to Roman antiquities boasts numerous original documents dating back to the time of the Inquisition. An abundance of impressive coin collections that include coins used in Malta 5 centuries ago will definitely strike the attention of numismatists and historians alike. The most valuable pieces however are the items that were saved either from the 1693 earthquake or from the 1798 French looting when a large number of ecclesiastical treasures were seized and taken over by Napoleon to France. Worthy of mention are a splendid set of 12 large solid silver figures of the apostles and a remarkable Renaissance flagon ascribed to the famous artist Benvenuto Cellini. Equally impressive is a grand silver altar front adorned with a profusion of studded jewels and precious stones. The Albrecht Durer collection is obviously a source of inspiration for lovers of classic art. It contains a wide range of original Durer woodcuts, woodcarvings and engravings.

A visit to this museum is a must.

Named Rabat by the Arabs in A.D. 870 and deprived of protective walls, Mdina's suburb is a country village that has changed constantly over the years. With a character of its own, it provides visitors with plenty of interesting sights and attractions and gives a vibrant testimony to Maltese village life and a real feeling for Maltese history and folklore.

Buildings of all periods and architectural styles have been blended together harmoniously to form an interesting ensemble of residential houses, shops, monasteries and churches. Don't expect to find a concentrated array of historical monuments and treasures as within the walled city of Mdina. Nevertheless, Rabat offers plenty of scattered curiosities that Mdina cannot provide, simply because there's no room for them within the old capital.

Parish square is considered to be the commercial and business centre of Rabat. Bustling with activity from early morning till late at night, it is ringed with a wide selection of small shops and a handful of surprisingly good restaurants. Some of the best souvenir and handicrafts made from Maltese cotton and Malta lace are on sale here. Every Sunday morning, this square becomes the venue for a traditional flea market, mostly equipped with items for tourists. A wide display of homemade delicacies include genuine bee honey, Maltese nougat, carob juice and a good selection of Maltese wines and vintages. Don't hesitate to try. All is fresh, tasty and dirt cheap.

The highlight here on Parish square is unquestionably St.Paul's Church. Originally built in 1572 above an underground chapel which you can still visit today, it was reconstructed and enlarged in 1694. Its peculiar interior becomes particularly attractive during July when it is fully decorated for the annual village festa. Don't miss the painting by Mattia Preti above the high altar. From the church's front parapet, step down into the cave-like underground chapel, reputedly the first Christian chapel in Malta. Called 'St.Paul's Grotto', and regarded by the locals as miraculous, it houses splendid frescoes, a priceless statue of St. Paul, and a golden galley that dates back to the time of the Knights of St. John.

From Parish square, take St.Agatha street and walk straight on towards St.Paul's Catacombs, a Roman and Byzantine complex of labyrinthine underground burial chambers and vaults that were still in use by the Maltese Christian community in the 4th century. The signposted streets that lead to the complex are themselves lovely, atmospheric and reminiscent of the good old times when everything was made by hand and access was only on foot. The entire space nearby is a maze of alleys, cul-de-sacs and narrow walkways that stand as a memorial to Malta's pre-medieval past. Excavated by a Maltese archaeologist in 1894, St.Paul's Catacombs consist of an imposing central hall from which several rock-hewn passages lead into a bewildering series of tomb galleries. Though faded and in a fragmentary state, a number of surviving murals that decorate the chamber walls stand to witness Malta's rich Roman period. Among the interesting features inside are large circular tables complete with benches, hewn out in one piece to form a single architectural unit inside a vaulted recess. These were probably used to host commemorative meals during the annual festival of the dead when the rites of burial were renewed. The entrance ticket which includes the use of an audioguide costs 5 Euro for adults, 2.5 Euro for students and senior citizens.

Back on Parish square, St.Paul street leads northeast towards Howard gardens, a small park that looks over Mdina's Greek Gate and a long stretch of bastions. Nearby, you will find Rabat's prime attraction. Known as the Domus Romana, it is a one-storey structure that preserves within its walls the ruins and remains of a former Roman House that dates back to the first century B.C. During excavations in 1881, numerous remarkable polychrome mosaic pavements and priceless architectural remains were uncovered. These were meticulously restored and are now on display together with other collections of Roman antiquities. The wide selection of domestic Roman artefacts includes amphorae, perfume bottles, weaving looms and an abundance of statues that were used to decorate Roman buildings. Don't miss the exclusive collection of Roman coins that date back to the first and second century B.C. More remains, mostly of interest to archaeologists and historians are exhibited on an open-air site behind the Roman House. The entrance ticket costs 6.25 Euro for adults, 3 Euro for students and senior citizens. A multi-site ticket costing 12.5 Euro gives holders access to St.Paul's Catacombs, the Roman House and the Museum of Natural History in Mdina.

After seeing Rabat's most frequented spots, it's advisable to wander along the streets of the village to discover for yourself more interesting attractions. South of Howard gardens along St.Augustine street, you will find a 16th-century priory, still inhabited by monks of the order of St.Augustine. The priory cannot be visited by the public but the adjoining church opens daily when there is no church service. This Renaissance edifice was designed by Gerolamo Cassar, the same architect who was responsible for the construction of St.John's Cathedral in Valletta. The church's barrel-vaulted interior is massive and imposing.

Further south along St.Francis street, you will come across another conventual building that is also still being used by a small community of monks of the order of St.Francis. The adjoining monastic church houses numerous artistic works that include splendid ceiling frescoes, marble statues, gilded church ornaments and a wonderful painting above the high altar.

From the southernmost end of St.Francis street, a short walk along G. Borg Olivier street brings you right in front of the largest and most pleasing monastery in Rabat. This huge building occupies one complete side of St.Dominic square. The 16th-century Baroque church which adjoins the monastery has just been restored and contains inside a couple of interesting architectural features that lovers of church architecture will definitely admire. Both the monastery and the church open daily for visitors. If the door that leads into the monastic cloisters is found closed, ring the bell and ask for permission to get inside.

If you still have time, from the stop in front of the church, take Bus 81 to the village of Dingli, only a 10 minute bus ride. This small pleasing village, characterized by a two mile stretch of terraced cliffs is ideal for walking. The gorgeous view from the cliffs over the dark blue Mediterranean is one reason for coming here. The small rocky island you see half a mile away at sea is the uninhabited island of Filfla.