April in Saigon

If you love this place, you’ll always call it Saigon, aka the Pearl of the Far East. All the things you might have associated with this city will most likely vaporize the moment you arrive. The pace here is much faster than Hanoi: a literal avalanche of motorbikes and other two-wheeled vehicles pour into the streets daily. The smiles are more abundant, and as Hanoi’s sister, Saigon is more sultry. And yes, the French influence is definitely felt by way of patisseries embodied in the unforgettable Pat’A Chou , better bookstores, such as the Xuan Thu Bookshop and fabulous restaurants including the informal Paris Deli on posh Dong Khoi Street and Le Givral which is situated directly across the street from the Continental Hotel. Notre Dame Cathedral, built by the French, sits alongside pagodas, temples and communal houses.

There are too many things to do in Saigon, and though we had 3 weeks to see the country, we spent more time here than anywhere else. Here are some suggestions that will make your trip memorable:

a) Stay in District One; it’s the happening place, and despite the hair-raising experience of crossing streets, it’s quite amazing to walk around. It’s about a twenty-minute ride from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, and about the same distance from the main railway station. Additionally, most of the 4 and 5 star hotels are located here, and we saw them putting the finishing touches on a brand new Hyatt on Hai Ba Trung Street.

b) Whether or not you’re a history buff, you will want to see all the hotels, which served the journalists and reporters during the war: they are all here. The Rex, the Caravelle, the Continental and the Majestic all have walls that could weave tales long into the night. We stayed at the modest, but very lovely Indochine on the first leg of the journey, and at the famed Continental on the return leg. We made visits to the Caravelle and the Rex, and never had the time to hit the Majestic.

c) Set a day aside to tour the Mekong Delta ; forget what you’ve heard.

d) Must see the War Remnants Museum

Quick Tips:

More often than not the guidebook items which get merely mentioned are the ones my nose likes to follow. One such place was a hole-in-the-wall sort of shop that turned up treasures. You’ll see newspaper clippings of the war, medals, and memorabilia at the Pho Binh Noodle Shop that belonged to a man named Ngo Toai. The tables and chairs are the very same that accommodated American soldiers 40 years ago.

I urge you to learn to navigate crossing the streets early on in your stay. If you do not negotiate yourself from one point to the other, you will never get across; after the first few times, the panic wears off and you find that walking into traffic is the only way.

Chinatown is always amazing, no matter what country we are in. Here it is in the Cholon district, and the main market is Cho Binh Tay, not to be confused with the Cho Ben Thanh on Le Loi Street, the city’s largest market, and a must do no matter how many markets you’ve done. If nothing else, buy a pair of lacquered sandals

Best Way To Get Around:

As with Hanoi, and the other cities we stayed at, taking cabs in the most convenient and cheapest way to get around. We did see some Anglos on motorbikes, most times, accompanied by a Viet Namese woman. Despite the heat of the day, the cyclo ride is an unforgettable experience, and you’ll be doubly fortunate if you hit one that speaks any English (most drivers don’t). Make absolutely sure you negotiate you price with the cyclo guys before you get into the vehicle; and another thing: if they drop you off anywhere but where you need to be, don’t get out. Insist that they take you to destination. This is a trick often used by them to either extract more money, or heaven knows what.

You can walk from the Rex, for instance, to Nguyen Hue Plaza, right across with its lovely park crowned by a statue of HCM overlooking flower beds. Directly behind is the former Hotel de Ville, now the seat of the Communist Party. Though you cannot go inside, a close up look of the architecture is pure joy; cross the street from there for a peek at art galleries with originals, reproductions, and Oriental furnishings.

The Continental Hotel earned its place in history, as its former terrace café served diplomats and journalists during the American War. If you saw the movie "The Quiet American," then you might remember that the Continental Hotel was the locale for part of the story.

As you walk in, you can almost feel the history envelop you and beckon you to stay. It didn’t take much convincing actually, as we had established a silent dialogue between us that said we’ve got to experience this.

The hotel itself is situated in the heart of District One in Saigon, where anything worth its weight is located. In fact, most of the hotels I mentioned are within walking distance of each other. The Caravelle sits right across the street, only separated by the majestic Opera House. One of the entrances is on posh Dong Khoi Street, facing an amazing bookstore called Fahasa, which deserves its own journal. On one of the other corners, construction is going up fast and furious, and we learn a new mall is coming. Shame, since Dong Khoi has a string of fantastic boutiques of silk and mother of pearl crafts, lacquered items that are positively bewitching, embroideries, art and more.

We were shown a room prior to our booking during our first phase of the trip in Saigon , and we were awestruck. The room we finally did get was no less regal. I have included a photo, but you just had to be there. We were able to share the balcony with large potted palms in the evening, as the air was less humid. As we arrived in the room, the living area, which is larger than my own living room at home, was so very welcoming with an assortment of those gorgeous fruits, from the Mekong Delta undoubtedly. The hot-water container was there, with the magical white coffee that became our addiction. The ceilings were so high and adorned with exquisite woodwork that continued from the entrance hall and turned into wall-length closets with plush, white robes and straw slippers for the bath. A king-size bed anchored the room, separated by a built-in wooden room divider with some lovely, typical Vietnamese sculptures.

Behind that were carved benches and sofa for "entertaining," and one could conceivably have a party here for six or more people quite comfortably. Room rates range from $100 to $170, exclusive of VAT and a 5% service charge. A fabulous breakfast is included in the room rate

Facilities include a banquet, conference room, bar, and fitness center. On the ground floor, you will find the executive business center and a concierge (they call it public relations). The hotel has its own website , and I encourage you to check it out. The folks at the reception area are very polite and accommodating. There are historical pictures on the walls of the hotel from as far back as the 1880s.

The Givral Café and Restaurant made the list of the Saigon Times Weekly. Even if I hadn’t known that, it was not easy to ignore as it sits across the street from the Continental Hotel . The cooking and ambience is definitely French with a twist, with prominent baguettes sticking out of straw baskets at one of the counters. The decor is not too elaborate, but it’s comfortable to sit in the booths by the window, as people-watching continues, even at this late date in our trip.

You can sense a different type of patron at Givral; mostly ex-pats and somewhat older. The service is slow, but then everything else moves so fast here that it presents an opportunity to relax.

We came in at an odd time of the day, too early for dinner and too late for lunch. How about some decadence? Works for me. I had warm crepes with strawberry sauce and Chuck did his triple-threat banana split. The pictures are worth all the words I can use.

Now, if you are serious about dining here, you can sink your teeth into any of these entrées, which were the specials for that particular week; prices listed are as of April 2005.

New Zealand Lamb Cutlets : with rosemary sauce; served with steamed vegetables and potatoes au gratin – VDN199,000 (it’s only $13!)
Argentinean Rib Eye Steak : with herbed butter; served with steamed vegetables and potatoes au gratin – VDN170,000
Chicken Tortillas: in sweet/hot sauce, served with guacamole, side salad with balsamic vinaigrette – VDN54,000
Hungarian Beef Goulash: cooked in red wine, served with homemade bread dumplings – VDN89,000
Pork Tenderloin with Green Pepper Sauce : served with steamed vegetables and potatoes au gratin VDN79,000
Fish Curry, Thai Style : in spicy coconut milk sauce served with steamed rice – VDN49,000

Naturally, you see what’s for dessert! It’s very convenient if you don’t wish to walk too far from the hotel if the heat gets to you.

The Caravelle belongs to the group of hotels that were meaningful during the American War. The others are the Continental and the Rex. Two buildings are now part of the complex: the oldest is a 10-story structure, and the newest, completed in 1998, soars to 24 floors. It has a definite Art Deco style to it, especially the façade. It is rated a five-star accommodation, so we needed to find out what the hoopla was all about.

We actually visited the Caravelle twice. Our first full day in Saigon, we walked down Lam Son Square by the Opera House, and there was the hotel in one of the most convenient locations of District 1. As you walk in, you immediately feel transported to a Western atmosphere: marble floors, towering columns, and a uniformed staff all looking very efficient and busy. We had a look at their gift shop, which stocks and displays lovely examples of the best crafts Vietnam has to offer. Most of the items are reasonably priced; some are outrageous. After a round-trip, during which I had to examine most pieces very closely, I had made several mental notes that served me well during my shopping hours.

The next visit to the Caravelle was to take advantage of the view from their Saigon Saigon Bar, reputed to be one of the city’s hottest night spots. Live music and panoramic views will hold you to your seat for a long time. On the ninth floor, the open-air bar is a terrace with tables that are a bit too close together for comfort. It’s hard to try to get comfortable without hitting anyone close by.

The band was playing as we walked in; the light were dimmed just enough so one could see across one’s table. The leading female singer was cooing into the mike, and it seemed she had been taught well. The music was all too familiar and American, as expected. Saigon Saigon is also a very luxurious watering hole, thus you can expect to wet your lips on whatever it is your heart desires. We took our seats right next to the edge of the terrace, and, heavens, what a view. See picture below. It seemed everything was hopping both upstairs and on the streets. Directly across was a huge NOKIA double sign that seemed to go all the way around the corner of the building. Then I spotted a new name, the Oscar Hotel. Cars competed with motorbikes on the streets with the usual jams, daring one another to the next intersection.

It was lovely and somewhat sad at the same time, as the evening marked the end of an incredible vacation that turned our lives upside down. As I sipped slowly on my Diet Coke, I was left to wonder when and how I’d manage to come back to Saigon. The bar was the perfect place to perch oneself and say goodbye.

The Venezia Restaurant had seen us more than once during this trip. The first time was when we had been staying at the Indochine Hotel and stopped in for lunch. What an ideal way to escape the midday heat! The atmosphere is more Italian than anything else, as you catch a glimpse of the white-and-red-checkered cotton tablecloths (by day only; at night, the linens change to pure white). Dark wood doors and wood trim frame the room. Huge windows give the diner an eagle’s eye view of one of the busiest intersections in Saigon. Luckily, both times, we had window tables.

I couldn’t help but notice a huge, well stocked bar near the rest rooms, which were impeccably clean. And then, there are several bottles on a tabletop in the middle of the restaurant just waiting to be "plucked". Each table had two menus: the regular lunch menu and the pizza (8 varieties) menu. Chef Leonardo Lanfranconi and his staff bring Venice to your door; no kidding. Small touches, like two sets of glasses, way too many forks and spoons, and a small vial with a fresh flower on each table adds to the mood. Since they serve Vietnamese food as well, they required chopsticks and Oriental soup spoons--spoon rests are all there. It is obvious that someone knows how to turn linen napkins into birds or some such thing.

We digressed from Vietnamese food that day and indulged with pasta, Bolognese for me, with clams and white sauce for Chuck. White wine and water drowned some of the garlic, but rest assured, the plates hardly needed to be washed after we were done.

Service is extremely courteous, and dangerously slow, but it’s a great reminder that hurry is not the order of the day. When the bill comes, be prepared to see a letter-size invoice with your damages in dong and U.S. dollars.

We also regaled ourselves with a yummy Italian dinner just before we went for cocktails at the Saigon Saigon Bar across the street at the Caravelle Hotel. Now that we were hotel guests, we were quickly recognized and given a wonderful table. Live music filled the air, now that the piano had a human sitting in front of it, and three ladies accompanied him, one with a guitar, a cellist, and a violinist. A large group from France was gregariously enjoying their dinner, and I never heard English until an American couple sat next to us.

The wine came to our table chilled, and I suggested we do the pizza del padrone, which had cheese, tomato sauce, and spinach with the tomato and mozzarella salad. Bread and butter are always present, and I do try so hard to ignore that. In summation, it seemed that no matter what we ordered, it was always excellent.

To have an entire museum dedicated to Vietnam’s women is admirable; however, they do not enjoy equal status in this society. When I heard about this museum, I never expected to face three huge floors filled with exhibits touting the heroics of women in the wars which Vietnam has had to face many times. There are 10 rooms covering a display area of 2,000 square meters. Do not believe that these women were all nurses; many of them were involved in combat, and medals and military award plaques and flags are there in memoriam. In fact, a woman named Nguyen Thi Binh went to Paris in 1973 to sign the peace accord at the end of the war. She was Minister for Foreign Affairs of the Provisional Revolutionary Government of the South Vietnamese Republic, a very pretty description for capitulation.

Nowhere does the museum tell us, however, that Nguyen Thi Binh was regarded to be the "most important southern woman revolutionary in the war." Originally from Ben Tre Province in the Mekong Delta, she fought against the French in her teens, landed in jail in the early 1940s, and fought again on her home turf in the 1960s against Diem’s government. She eventually published a book called No Other Road to Take in 1968. The forces she helped organized were dubbed the long-haired army.

When you enter the museum, you must start at the top floor and work you way down. Entrance is free, and a few young women are on hand to show you the way. No one speaks English, but we didn’t feel that was a hindrance. What was astonishing was that we were alone in this immense depository of information: didn’t anyone want to know about the country’s Nam Bo (Southern Vietnam) women? Most striking is an example of writings from the American War Era: it is an open letter to America, and if one were to read it today, it might strike bewildering similarities with the American War being waged in Iraq. I have taken a paragraph from it for the benefit of the reader below:

Dear Little Americans:

Go on board your ships, with your wives and your chewing gum and leave our country where your are responsible for mess!

Quickly go home!

We want to remain by ourselves! Don’t look after our business; don’t work in the same manner you have worked in CHINA et in KOREA .

Chinese and Korean have perfectly undertook your purposes. They are suffering under the consequences of your stupid inflation.

Your are but poor fool children!

.

There is a magnificent room dedicated to the fashions of women in Vietnam from the various regions and different eras. The costumes are breathtaking; they also offer a look at ornamental jewelry that is kept under glass. There is much reading to do here from the perspective of the Vietnamese. Bring your glasses.

It was with delight that I heard about this bookshop on Dong Khoi Street, which Chuck found in his wanderings during my food-poisoning episode. I could not pass it up when I learned about wondrous music, French books, and his passion: maps, lots of maps.

It turned out that the Xuan Thu was across the street from our hotel Continental. By that time, I had seen several bookshops in both Hanoi and Saigon; it seemed that the Fahasa chain also manages this shop, as there is another one on Le Loi, but the variety and richness of the French literature was missing. Xuan Thu has French novels, including those of Marguerite Duras; if you saw the movie The Lover , this is the story of her mother, who was more animate than the Vietnamese themselves. There are French cookbooks, Vietnamese cookbooks, huge pictorial table books, lots of maps, and a CD section of primarily French and Vietnamese music.

I was very surprised at the lack of English literature of any sort. I found a couple of city guides in English, dictionaries and English workbooks numbered 1 to 6, and newspapers.

The Vietnam Investment Review is the most popular magazine in the country and has a separate pull-out entertainment section for visitors. You can find this here at the bookstore as well.

It was here that I picked up my book on Vietnamese history.

Keep in mind that in general, copyright laws in the country are fairly loose. That goes for music as well; I purchased a wonderful French CD that was a compilation of songs and promptly forgot it in the store, as I got busy looking through a huge book about Alexandria/Egypt, written in French. Such a book would easily cost $50 to $75 in the US, and here it was only $20.

As usual, I am a magnet for beggars, peddlers of all kinds, veterans, and people who have a story to tell. An ancient man approached me while I was thumbing through my books and started with the usual question as to the country of my origin. He then launched himself into a tirade of how he fought in the war and lost his entire family; I could see where this was going. I was a bit surprised that the store personnel allowed him to wander around the aisles and pitch for money. I was able to extricate myself from the conversation unscathed.

I also purchased my Vietnamese phrase book outside this bookstore, and it really didn’t help me a bit. By the time I could find what I wanted to say, there was no need for me to say it. However, there were some fascinating phrases in there: how to ask for street drugs, how to say that one is stoned, etc.

It’s possible to decelerate the frenzied pace of Saigon on Dong Khoi Street, where shopping turns into fantasy candy. Though many shops exist also on Nguyen Hue and Le Loi Streets, Dong Khoi is reputed for anchoring the crème de la crème. Lam Son Square is a good starting point: embroidered tablecloths and napkins are big business here, and prices are incredibly reasonable. Expect to pay US$45 for a set of eight (napkins included with tablecloth). The variety is mind-numbing, but the search is definitely worthwhile.

Custom-made silk garments can also be had for a song. The quality of silk is comparable to that of Singapore or Hong Kong, and the workmanship is deserving of praise. A green silk strapless dress has my name all over it in one of the shops there. A fine harmony of colors is present in the design: look at the photo below and imagine the infinite skill and patience to get those details right.

Along with garments, silk scarves, shawls, and purses will drive you mad. One shop above all had fabulous handbags using all sorts of raw materials, but in particular, the ones that featured mother of pearl breathed elegance. Ah, the lure of lacquered items! I thought I had seen miracles in Thailand, but these just had me totally gaga. Some have already made their way into our American furniture stores, but not all. Take note of the following name:

Bich Lien Lacquerwares
125A Dong Khoi Street
District 1, HCMC

Vases of all shapes, sizes, and colors, with lots of gold and silver predominant; serving bowls; lampshades; napkin holders; nested boxes; chargers; and what has now become the Vietnamese signature item, the bamboo plate and or vase. A must-see.

Art galleries are not scarce on this block, but not as ubiquitous as in Hanoi. Reproductions of well-known works are churned out on a daily basis - so much for copyright laws. Prices vary depending upon the type of canvas: ask whether it’s imported from Taiwan or local; the oil paints themselves also will play into the price. At times, the copier will take artistic license and introduce different hues than the original work. If you’ve ever wanted to own an original and just couldn’t afford it, this is the perfect answer. Van Gogh, Renoir, Botero, and Klimt can hang in your living room and have the neighbors wondering. Speaking of Van Gogh, there is an immense art workshop/gallery bearing his name at 114B Nguyen Hue St. in District 1. Expect to spend at least an hour going through the various rooms. The artwork can be rolled into a tube so that you can carry it with you, or can be shipped to the US, but this will offset any savings you might have realized making the purchase.

Don’t forget that the very French Paris Deli is here, as well as the wonderful Xuan Thu Bookshop .