Boys in Bath

While Bristol is 20 minutes from Bath when there's no traffic—an hour or more during rush hour—we used the Marriott Bristol Royal as a base while in the UK.

College Green is right by Bristol University in the center of the city, and on nice days, a myriad of students were seen lounging in the grass here or kicking about a football. I couldn't help but look at the strange mix of kids...a few in blazers and ties who must have attended nearby private schools like Bristol Grammar close to some boys with mohawks playing guitars. An imposing statue of Queen Victoria is directly in front of the hotel, so it's easy to spot the entrance. To one side you'll also see beautiful Bristol Cathedral.

So how was our experience? Our room was what you would expect from a nice Marriott. It was of a nice size with two lounge chairs, a desk, and a double bed. High speed wireless access. Five public channels on the television plus pay-per-view for movies. Restaurants and a lounge on site. A car park with plenty of space (for a charge.) Room service. A nice gym downstairs with treadmills and cycles. (I watched England playing a World Cup match here as I huffed and puffed through a few miles.) A large pool and Jacuzzi overlooked by Roman busts. (I regretted not bringing a suit!) There's a small business center available with an extra charge for Internet access that I used a couple of nights because I left my own computer at home. (You bought a time card from the front desk.) The water pressure in the shower was really fabulous. Modern plumbing. Even a long shower stayed hot.

What are this hotel's best features? The service was phenomenal. The concierge went above and beyond to give us guidance on the area. The staff is first rate. The location put us within easy walking distance of several nice restaurants and the Hippodrome, a theater where Cary Grant actually started his career.

Hotel drawbacks? None except that it's not for the weak of budget. A nice base from which to explore both Bristol and Bath.

I'd certainly stay here again.

The Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel provides luxury accommodations for anyone visiting the gorgeous city of Bath. I had the good fortune of spending a Saturday night here in January 2008.

The Building's History: The original, Greek Revival house with seven acres of gardens was built in 1835. It would later become everything from a home to a wealthy man-of-the-cloth who helped restore Bath Abbey, to a boys' school, to housing for nurses, to a set of requisitioned offices used by the Admiralty during WWII! It was first a luxury hotel in 1912. (An exiled emperor from Ethiopia was a guest!) However, it was only recently acquired and restored by Macdonald Hotels. In fact, HRH, the Princess Royal, was at the relaunch. This seems fitting considering the Imperial Suites section of the resort comes with butler service.

So how was MY visit? Decorated in a neutral color scheme of white, magnolia and beige, our room was large and comfortable. There was a small sitting area, a desk, plenty of closet space, a view of the grounds in back, a nicely appointed bathroom, and a king bed.

Though booking treatments in advance is advisable, a "menu" for spa services was displayed for our perusal. If you want to relax, you can have everything from a collagen biomatrix facial (55 minutes at £85) to a volcanic heat pack (50 minutes at £80) to an Indian head massage (45 minutes at £50) to reflexology (60 minutes at £65.)

I didn't get a treatment, but I was tempted to take a dip in the pool. This is open as early as 7AM during the week, 8AM on the weekends. (If you're traveling with children, they are only allowed to swim until 6 PM, Mon-Friday; 7 PM, Saturday and Sunday.)

As we were in Bath for a company party, our evening dinner was catered. I got a taste of the hotel's high quality cuisine in a fabulous vegetarian lasagna and a chocolate tort. (I should note, if you're looking for a corporate event venue, the staff here did a nice job of coordinating and servicing the needs of a large group.)

Other positives? Park your car in the resort lot and walk to local attractions in Bath. The city centre is very close, and this is certainly a giant plus. After depositing our bags, my husband and I easily walked with friends to see a glass blowing demonstration at the Bath glass factory. Since I was wearing high heels, however, I played lazy after an hour of shopping and got a £4 cab ride back to the hotel from Bath Abbey.

Any Negatives? I thought the cold morning breakfast of various pastries and fruit at £15---there's an additional £6 added to the bill for hot food---was only okay. Check-out is at 11 instead of noon.

Bottom line? If you can afford the room---and an extra service from the spa---this is certainly a nice hotel option in Bath. We felt rejuvenated after a relaxing weekend.

We went to Ask for lunch on a recommendation of a friend who lives in the area and has children. It's a nice Italian joint with a bit of atmosphere, but they weren't uptight about family dining. We were given a table in a brightly lit dining room and had our orders quickly taken. I had a wonderful pasta dish with a glass of wine, while the boys were thrilled with their pizzas. (While meant to feed just one, younger kids with smaller appetites could certainly split a pizza and leave happy.).

Later we learned that Ask is a chain restaurant, but we enjoyed our meal anyway.

While Great Britain isn't always acclaimed for its British cuisine, England is known for having wonderful Indian restaurants. Bath is no exception. In business since 1980, the Rajpoot is a fine dining experience that promises to please.

While I would advise reservations later in the evening, we walked over the Pulteney Bridge and found the restaurant shortly after it opened at 6pm. A gentleman in a red jacket and turban opened the door. Going down, down, down narrow stairs, we left the cold night air behind us, and descended into another world. We were quickly seated in a waiting area by the bar where we were served drinks on gold tables. When our regular table was ready, we were escorted into the Old India room with its lavender ceiling, green boothes, and low lighting. One can easily imagine he has been transported to an empire guarded by the warrior Rajpoots.

So how was the food? Excellent.

Our son was happy with his chicken tikka massala as the rest of us enjoyed a variety of dishes prepared with lamb, fish, and giant prawns. We used the nan bread to scoop up yogurt with cucumbers. We passed around bowls of the exceptional vegetables like the bindhi bhajee (spiced okra) and the chana massala (chick peas.) The waiter was attentive to our needs, clearing plates and refreshing our drinks as needed.

As we ordered several dishes to sample more of what the "Indian Restaurant of the Year" had to offer, our tab topped 100 pounds. But we enjoyed everything we'd eaten. (And you're in Bath, after all.) It was well worth the splurge.

I have a friend who lived in Bath for a summer. She loved this cafe. It's chic and casual. So after a visit to the nearby Jane Austen center, we walked up towards the Circus and found the side street that offered to lead to some of the same for lunch... but something different.

While the restaurant was full of people, we were able to find a table with a cushioned bench seat by the window. Though I liked the black tables and the paint splashed art on the bright red walls that made me think of Jackson Pollard, a family with children wouldn't be uncomfortable here. Spanish tapas are a specialty on the menu, but I opted for something vegetarian: a vegetables and feta sandwich full of avocado that was absolutely delicious. My husband was happy with a jacket potato and a pint to warm him up. (It was raining... of course.) I got tea for a quid fifty and lingered a while in the warm room.

Bottom line? This is an excellent choice for a quick, reasonable meal in a nice, relaxed atmosphere. The menu offers a bit more than your average pub, and the service is actually decent. I'd certainly eat here again when shopping or sight-seeing in Bath.

Sally Lunn's House is over 300 years old. Near the Roman Baths, it's easy to find in one of the narrow passages that make up Bath. It's claim to fame is the Lunn Bunn that was first whipped up in the kitchen by a a lady named Sally who was originally from France. You can visit a tee-tiny museum that shows her kitchen on the basement floor of the house. (Good to amuse kids.)

So is this restaurant worth visiting?
Yes and no. I've eaten here twice, and I do think it's worth a visit. However, I would recommend it more for tea and a bun rather than a full meal.

I had lunch here one day with my parents, and the place was absolutely mad with people crushing into the small reception hallway. I do have to hand it to the staff. They were very professional and quick, getting people seated as quickly as possible. They know they are a popular attraction in Bath, and they've perfected the art of turn-over. So we got seated at a small table on the second floor. All the rooms are tiny, but you have to remember how old this house is. I liked the picture of Charles Dickens in the hall that proclaimed he was a fan of Sally Lunn's buns. We were hungry, so we ordered full meals for lunch: trencher dishes for my father and son, sandwiches for me and my mother. (I love brie with cranberry!) All was good, but it wasn't great. This is fine, except the prices are rather dear... even in the afternoon. I mean for $22 per person for lunch, I expected fabulous. Ah, me. This is life on the tourist trail. Famous attractions are often a bit too pricey...especially in a city like Bath.

With that said, I then had two friends touring Bath with me, and they wanted a light snack in the afternoon before dinner. My friend has her own recipe for Sally Lunn buns in the United States, so how could we not give the place another go? I wanted her to taste the real deal from England! This time, however, we ordered tea and buns with jam and cream. Don't be mistaken. This still isn't cheap, but it's part of the Bath experience. We waited until after the lunch rush, so seating was less hectic. The buns are giant but light, so they are a great tea-time indulgence. If you want to do Sally Lunn's House, this is the way I'd go. A last alternative would be to buy ONE bun in the gift shop and eat it on the sidewalk (the most economic option.) Of course, I think you still need butter or jam....

If you do visit the house and you're a lady, make sure you at least wash your hands in the restroom. It's the size of a very small closet, and I can't help but laugh every time I see it.

Enjoy!

I first visited The Crown with my boss while driving home from London. He told me he had seen this pub evolve over the years from one of those darker places with only a few people lingering at the bar to the chic, renovated establishment that it is today. Over the course of the next year when I was stuck more than once eating a dismal dinner at an overpriced Services on the M4, I bemoaned the fact that I couldn't remember exactly where The Crown was located. I finally stopped moaning and found out. I revisited the place for lunch with a friend on our way to Bath, and the atmosphere was every bit as pleasant as I remembered.

So where is The Crown? Exceptionally easy to get to off of the M4, simply take Junction 18 going towards Bath. You'll see the pub after passing a layby for trucks. It's not immediately off the exit... but close.

What is the atmosphere like? In the daytime, light poured through the windows and warmed the pale yellow walls. A shoot of cut, green bamboo was in a glass bud vase on our table. We ordered lunch at the bar and found a seat. Conversely, when I ate dinner at The Crown, a fire was glowing in the hearth. A waiter took our food order at our table. Several nicely dressed couples looked as if they were out on dates.... This is an upscale country pub.... a place with a sense of Bath style.

What is the food like? At lunch I had a chutney and cheddar sandwich with hot chips that was very yummy. Heavier meals are available as well as the traditional ploughman's. At dinner I had a more robust entree of pasta with a glass of wine, I almost always order dessert when I'm out in England---I've got a thing for sticky toffee pudding---but I remember that I was absolutely too full to eat another bite. The gentleman who first introduced me to the restaurant enjoys The Crown's fish. You can get fried haddock, roasted salmon, or grilled bream. Or maybe you'd like something that I always think of as a particularly English entree? Braised rabbit with polenta is on the menu.

Cost? Our bill was in line with other pubs in Bath. Lunch was under £20 whereas dinner may be pushing £50 with drinks and dessert.

Bottom line? This is superior choice for a place to stop when traveling on the M4 when hungry... or to stop for lunch on the way into Bath. (There's plenty of car parking.) I know I will eat there again, and I would suggest it to anyone.

Tip: The lovely National Trust country manor Dyrham Park is practically on the doorstep of this pub. You'll see signs, and if you have a few extra hours to see one of Bath's grand homes, it will be worth the detour.

Shall I admit it? Jane Austen has never been one of my favorite writers. Perhaps I'm just not a romantic like this giant of literature certainly was throughout her life. However, I do have a degree in English, so I wasn't about to leave Bath without paying at least some sort of homage to one of the area's most famous former residents. As soon as it opened at 10am, I walked to the center and paid my admission. I was glad I did.

First, you are invited upstairs to a small area decorated with Jane Austen movie posters and newspaper articles about the center where you wait for entrance to a small presentation room. Here, a live guide gives a quick introduction to Jane Austen, her work, and how she ended up living for a while in Bath. Then you are let go to view the museum at your own pace.

Now, I would love to say that my 11-year-old son, his friend, and my husband were all clamoring to see this museum. But I would be lying through my teeth, dear reader, if I even implied such a thing. So we asked the girl up front how long it would take me to view the museum so that they could meet up with me afterwards, and she said 45 minutes. It took me an hour and a half, and I still could have taken a little more time. (I skipped tea upstairs and missed out on the view from the roof--this is something I would have loved to experience with "Mr. Darcy" if I'd given birth to a sweet daughter instead of a stinky son! If you have a girl in tow, this activity might be worth a few more minutes.) I can only imagine how a real Austen fan might want to linger! There's a small video to watch, plenty of things to read about Jane's life, and even a room that shows her brother's connection to Lord Nelson and explains Jane's sincere love (as reflected in many of her books) for all those men who choose real nobility by serving their country in the Navy. Of course, you might want to read an Austen novel before your visit. Northanger Abbey and Persuasion are both set in Bath.

If you don't want to visit the museum, you might still want to step inside the small gift shop. The Center closes at 5:30pm in the summer, 4:30pm in the winter.

When we first drove by the Royal Victoria Park, the two boys immediately noticed the skateboard ramps. Teenagers were out in the pale sunshine giving their mothers cause to worry. (Thank goodness for helmets and elbow pads!)

Just as enticing to our kids, however, was a small rock wall, a giant rope climbing tower, slides, and a funky seesaw that went up and down and all around, like an amusement park ride. Let me tell you, it was glorious!

18th-century architecture, Roman baths, and famous writers be darned. This was the attraction the kids enjoyed the most in Bath. And this is where we spent a couple of our evenings.

On Sunday, this public park was basically empty and the restrooms were locked, but the gates were still open. By Monday afternoon, the park was inhabited by many local children out for a spot with their parents. The restrooms were then open and two older gents who looked like they worked for the park were there to look over things. Hot-air balloons are launched in a field nearby, so we saw several float serenely overhead near twilight.

Tip: The pub called The Hop and Pole across the street from the park does accept children in its courtyard garden. It might suit to go for a drink or dinner after play. After all, the park is free and works up an appetite!

We were staying in an apartment near the Royal Crescent while we were in Bath, so a bus stopped almost right outside our door. (If you were on the field in front facing the Royal Crescent, the bus stops on the corner of the street you'll see to your right.) We simply hopped on and paid the driver for our tickets. These included a transfer to another bus that explored gardens outside the town center, as well as 15 stops in town where we could hop on or off at will. An extra bonus was that the tickets worked for 2 days. Tour aside, this was a great convenience when we didn't want to walk from one end of town to the other.

So what was the ride like? The double-decker buses are very comfortable, and the boys made a beeline to the top section. We were all given headphones we could plug into our seats for running commentary about the town. While the recorded commentary was certainly useful, I enjoyed a tour with a live guide onboard the most. Your ticket covers the cost of either; it's just a matter of waiting to get on a bus with a real person talking. Some of the highlights included High Street, Grand Parade, and Queen Square, where the Jane Austin Center is located. The guide who we eventually had the pleasure of hearing was very pleasant, with plenty of interesting tidbits to offer. For instance, she told us that men started opening doors for women because dress styles such as the hoop skirt that was popular when Bath was at its height of popularity made it difficult for women to reach forward far enough to grab a doorknob. Therefore, a lady's escort had to open the door for her!

I would highly suggest this type of open-air tour if you have kids in tow. Even if they don't pay attention to all the details, they'll enjoy the ride.

Bath is known for good shopping. I can just imagine wearing a giant hoop skirt in the 18th century, strolling down the gorgeous main street with an umbrella covering my fair complexion and spending all afternoon looking for new hats in the shiny shop windows. After all, near the city's oldest, still-operating hospital, across the street from Starbucks(!), you'll see the crest of Queen Victoria topping a building to signify the exact place where she dropped some pounds into the purchase of a pin during her one and only visit to Bath. So you see? Shopping is a main Bath pastime.

Fast forward to the 21st century and you'd see me during my visit in my jeans with two boys attached to either hand. They're game to shop for about.... uh... an hour after I've bribed them with pastries! One is actually on the lookout for a gift for his mum (good man). So I'm excited when I see Lush on Union Street.

Lush is a bath-and-natural-beauty-aid company that got its start in the United Kingdom. Everything is made by hand with the freshest ingredients possible, and the bath fizzlers are absolutely wonderful. They look like little balls that you put into your tub, but they explode like Alka-Seltzers into delicious fragrances.

Here my little charge was able to find his mother a nice gift sure to please her. Granted, Lush is an international company now, but since it was British-grown, I think it counts more as "local."

The Royal Crescent was designed by John Wood the Younger to overlook the Bath countryside and embrace the natural beauty of the open landscape. It was the first "crescent" built in Great Britain, and the original project was a wonderful example of speculative real estate. Keep in mind that Bath was the place to visit if you were part of 18th-century society. These visitors needed a place to stay, and they were used to fine apartments. Well, John Wood was no fool. He saw a need, found investors, and became a land developer! Most of the apartments in the Royal Crescent today are still private residences, though they have been split into smaller units from the originals. (There is also a five-star hotel in the middle of the crescent.) The No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum has completely restored one entire "house" to all the grandeur of its past so that visitors can step back in time to see luxury in Georgian Bath.

What did we experience when we visited the museum? We got to the museum as soon as it opened. The "tour" is very self-directed, but each of the rooms in the apartment was "hosted" by a docent who answered questions about the period furniture and the type of people who would have rented at the Royal Crescent. It was interesting to see the different rooms in which men and women would receive their guests. It was funny to think that it wasn't proper for the lady of the house to be in the room with the men drinking and smoking. The fairer sex had a room of their own in which to gather. My favorite section of the tour, however, was in the basement, where we met a charming lady who lived in Bath during WWII. While telling us about the 18th-century kitchen we were viewing, she also told us about England during the dark years of Hitler. We were completely tickled when she went out of her way to tell us how the Americans built a hospital nearby and were very well behaved gentlemen who were truly loved and respected by the locals.

"Yanks, we called them," she said, her blue eyes crinkling up with warmth. "Oh, they were marvelous chaps really, but I must admit I wasn't ever allowed to date one!! Oh, no! My father said it was just the RAF for me...."

She was absolutely precious.

Bottom line? The museum won't take long to walk through. If you have an interest in architecture and design, it's certainly worth your time. I'd only take older children here---the value of looking at "old furniture" was completely lost on our two 11-year-old boys---though I certainly enjoyed the visit.

We entered the Roman Baths near beautiful Bath Abbey and were given black "tour wands" that we would use as our mechanical guides. We simply typed the number of an exhibit into the face of the wand, held the black headphone up to our ears, and then listened to a recording that would explain the significance of what we were seeing. I find these types of wands to be pretty effective in tourist sites like this one because you always have the option of listening to every word, pressing another button for more information--or not listening to every word and moving quickly by something you don't find especially interesting. This last option did not happen so often for me because I love history, but the two boys in our company enjoyed the control they had over the amount of information they were given. I noticed that they really liked a lot of the dramatized bits of storytelling that were part of much of the narration--the sounds of the Romans mumbling prayers to Minerva before throwing coins and wine as offerings into a pool built for that purpose--but they did not have the patience to hear all the minutia. Still, if you have kids with you, they will have plenty of exhibits to occupy their attention while you listen ad nauseum to exactly how the Romans built a sort of plumbing system that still works today in this ancient spa.

The Great Bath is in the center of the spa and is the "main attraction" on the tour. It used to be covered and completely enclosed, but the roof fell in many years ago. Now this bath is green with algae nurtured by the sun. I enjoyed going beneath here into the museum where we walked on stones that were laid by citizens of ancient Rome. We were astonished by how much lead was used in the construction of the spa as this surely caused some of the citizens who sought improved health here to suffer lead poisoning!

Flash forward to the eighteenth century, when Bath was the center of society for the kingdom, and you will want to go and "take the waters" in the elegantly appointed Pump Room. (No worries. This water isn't green!) Pay 50 pence for a glass of lukewarm water. It's all you'll need for everyone in your party to share, because no one will want more than a sip. We also indulged in high tea, having made a reservation for a table earlier that morning. This was not an inexpensive treat, but what could feel more... uh... English than an activity such as this? The boys were skeptical at first, but their eyes quickly brightened when they saw the three-tiered, silver trey covered with so many yummy things to eat. Right outside of the Pump Room they were also thrilled to watch an absolutely fabulous street performer who juggled flaming torches on his unicycle. He definitely earned their donation of a few pounds.

Wookey Hole is a family attraction near Bath that calls out to young families. With underground caves full of stalactites, stalagmites, a legend of an old witch, and a small mirror maze, our son couldn't wait to visit. So, off we went.

How much did this attraction cost? We had two boys with two adults, so we opted for the family ticket at 34 pounds. Otherwise, adults are almost 11 each plus each kid at right under nine.

Was the attraction worth the money? Well, that's a really subjective question, but I do think this was a little pricey for what we got. The caves were cool... certainly pretty. But the cave tour is short and less informative than the self-guided, wand tour at Cheddar Gorge. Of course, if I had young kids in tow, this wouldn't have been a problem. After all, a five-year-old only wants to hear so much. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

First, the caves are the main thing to see. They've been inhabited by either critters or people for hundreds of years. Explored by divers in the 1930s, a river runs through the rocks and limestone. It's said that these caves - and the caves at Cheddar Gorge - served as some inspiration for J.R.R. Tolkien when he conceived of his different kingdoms for dwarfs. I loved walking over a narrow bridge to cross the river, the lights hitting the green water below. But... this doesn't take long to see. Again, if you're here with younger kids, PERFECT. If you're really interested in geology.... uh.... The tour's a little short on substance.

After the caves, Wookey guests are able to walk through a "dinosaur park." This is definitely an attraction for younger kids.

Then, you're able to go into a paper mill where paper is still made from cotton. I enjoyed this more than children might. I loved the film that explained why cotton-made paper lasts longer than wood-pulp-made paper and how the process works. Of course, the boys ran past this little bit of education. They were more interested in the penny arcade. And, I have to admit, I liked this bit as much as they did.

The Penny Arcade: Here are all the old mechanical arcade machines that were so popular before video games. You buy old pennies from the vendor and then go to town pulling the handle on one-armed penny slot machines (for more tokens/pennies) and other various games. We had a blast here. Unique and fun, this arcade reminded me of the Cliff House in San Francisco.

Then we got ice cream.

Bottom Line? There are some neat things at Wookey Hole. Young kids will really like some of the play equipment that is obviously geared towards them. My only real complaint is the cost. It's steep for a couple of hours of amusement.... If you get a half-off ticket, GO. If not, you might want to think about it.... At least if you've got kids older than 10.

www.wookey.co.uk

The Bishop of Bath and Wells does not reside in Bath. Instead, he takes up his residence in the 13th century Bishop's Palace in the nearby city of Wells. Also located in Somerset, Wells is a compact and lovely town that offers a beautiful cathedral, a small museum with prehistoric objects taken from caves in the Mendip Hills, and the Bishop's Palace. After spending the morning exploring Wookey Hole just south of Bath with my son and one of his friends, it was logical to drive to Wells and see some of the things it had to offer.

How was the Cathedral? Begun in the late 1100s, the cathedral has an absolutely beautiful west front that contains 300 medieval statues of kings, knights, and saints. As it was a nice day hinting at spring, many people were out enjoying the sunshine, walking on the expansive grass in front of the church, throwing balls back and forth and laughing. I absolutely loved the peaceful feel of the whole city: the warmth of the place. In truth, we only stuck our heads for a moment inside the cathedral to see the vaulted ceilings, but we stayed respectfully in the back as a communion service was in progress. Even this little peek left us impressed. It made a walk around to the Bishop's Palace a must.

The Bishop's Palace: Surrounded by a moat where swans and ducks play, we enjoyed walking around here. Bread is located in a chest near the entrance to the palace itself, so the boys grabbed some pieces for the waterfowl. I don't care how old they are. Kids always like feeding ducks. Since the buildings are only open for viewing from April to October, we were unable to do anything beyond look at the croquet lawn in the courtyard. Still, we really enjoyed what we could see before making our way to the High Street in Wells where an outdoor market was in full swing.

Other things of interest in Wells? Going from the church to the High Street, you'll pass by Penniless Porch where beggars used to ask for alms. Near this area is The Vicars' Close, which was built in the 14th century for the Vicars' Choir and is one of the oldest complete streets in Europe. I thought it was worth the five minutes to see the ancient chimneys. A nice boutique for women an English friend told me about is Number Twelve at the beginning of the High Street. We had a nice lunch at The King's Head pub, which had a modern section attached to the older, original building. Painted as a kind of "palace" in only this part, it's a good environment in which to dine with kids. Granted, they didn't have hamburgers. The boys ordered herb chicken with chips. I had a delicious brie sandwich with chutney. Yummy.

Bottom line? Wells is a quiet reprieve from Bath. It's a lovely place to walk around on a nice afternoon.

I have been to Bath many times, yet I had never managed to make it to Prior Park. When a friend of mine who collects pictures of covered bridges was in England, however, I had to put this on our itinerary. I knew she'd like to see the beautiful Palladian Bridge, one of only four in the world.

How do you get there?
If we had used the red City Sight seeing Bus Tour, we could have taken the skyline bus straight to the park's entrance. Instead, we thought we'd walk. This isn't a problem if you're in good shape, but it is a steep climb. If you'd prefer, there is a regular city bus stop nearby, or a cab costs about 5 pounds from the bus station. Walking back down the hill is a piece of cake when you're ready to go back into town. There is no parking for cars barring a couple of handicapped spaces that need to be pre-booked if you have a disabled person in your company.

So what do you see in the park?
There is a lovely walk-a-bout for you to take that offers fabulous views of Bath. Ralph Allen, one of the city's major figures, commissioned the park's creation in the 18th century. While we didn't have any literature about the park to read while we were visiting, we were told by a city resident we passed along the way that the house made of Bath stone perched high up in the park used to belong to Ralph Allen and was later a school before a fire destroyed part of it.

Kids will like walking here, looking at the cows grazing on the hillside, and exploring the paths that curve through the trees.

We took several pictures on the Palladian Bridge, which you can walk over, as you could not ask for a lovelier backdrop, on a nice day, it's a photographer's dream.

Cost?
I am a member of the National Trust, which is an organization that maintains some heritage sites throughout England. Therefore, admission for me was free. If you are just visiting, however, there is a charge to enter the park which must be considered. Adults are 4.50, and children are 2.50. A family ticket can be had for 11.50 (all pounds sterling.) In truth, I think these fees are a bit high for a hike, however lovely, but they do guarantee a reprieve from the often swamped tourist areas in Bath. Also, if you're one of those people who visits covered bridges wherever you can find them - or who enjoys places of supreme natural beauty where you can simply wile away some time with a camera or just walking in the sunshine - you'll enjoy this park. I'm sure the next time I'm in Bath, I'll visit it again.

Opening hours?
The park is opened from 11am to 5:30pm every day 2 Feb-30 Nov EXCEPT on Tuesdays when it is closed. Hours are from 11am to dusk weekends ONLY (Fri, Sat, Sun) from 1 Dec-28 Jan.

The American Museum was founded by a small partnership of gentlemen who had strong ties to both the United States and the United Kingdom. In the interest of strengthening what has sometimes been called "the special relationship" forged between the two countries in the 20th century, the museum offers a glimpse into how Americans have lived since the New World was discovered.

Truthfully, I would not have visited this site if I was an American on holiday in England - If you're from the United States, you already know your country's story, and there are too many other things to see in Bath to take the time to visit here - but I am an American living in England. So I was curious about just how my country would be portrayed.

Conversely, if I was British, I might make a point of going to this museum...especially if I had never had the chance of making it across the pond. It really is interesting.

As it was, my son and I drove up Claverton Hill in Bath...up towards the university...and paid to go to the museum (7.50/adults, 4 pounds per child.) It has its own parking lot, which is fabulous...and...uh...pretty American.

My impressions?

Well, immediately it seemed fitting to me to see a plaque proclaiming that Winston Churchill made his very first political speech in Claverton Manor, the stately mansion in which the museum is housed, since the good prime minister's mother, Jennie, was actually from the United States... a fact that Churchill always proclaimed proudly.

The house holds the main collection and it's split into multiple floors. I completely enjoyed walking through the floor with several period rooms decorated in different styles to show the changes in furniture and fashion in colonial and federalist America. Members of staff are in each room to answer questions. The guide in the tavern was absolutely excellent. She pointed out the misconception about the Puritans in New England never drinking. They did drink, partly out of necessity because of poor water standards. They simply did not tolerate over-indulgence in this area.

My son and I enjoyed goofing around on another floor where you could dress up like pilgrims traveling on the Mayflower. (There were several interactive exhibits like this for children.)

Fortunately for us, we timed our visit to be right before the 4th of July, so there was a special event going on in the garden in back of the manor. (If there isn't an event, you still need to step back here. The view is amazing!!) The Crown Forces of 1776 were doing drills. A British commander gave us the run-down on what it was like for the Brits fighting in the colonies. It was a fun and interesting display complete with firing guns.

I was also amazed to see a Grandma Moses painting.

The Indians and other folk art are covered as well.

To check for upcoming events and temporary displays, visit the American Museum's website: www.americanmuseum.org.

Swindon is a town in between Bath and London. You drive very close to it if you take the M4 Motorway traveling from either one of these great cities to the other. Swindon is not a place that I would say to visit for its own sake, but if you want an easy and wonderful attraction to break up the drive with kids -or you're a railway buff- I have the museum for you.

Located within the same complex as Swindon's outlet mall -and with plenty of easy parking- you'll find the Steam - Museum of the Great Western Railway. Park in the NORTH parking lot. (With your museum ticket, parking will be free here.) Then follow the signs to the museum.

So what was the Great Western Railway?
The Great Western Railway was surveyed and designed by one of England's most important and famous technical men, I. K. Brunel. This man was a GIANT in engineering, and he is responsible for such feats as the Underground in London and the world's first iron cruise ship in the SS Great Britain. I am ashamed to say that I had never heard of him before I moved to this island country, yet every new thing I learn about him, makes me admire him more. The Clifton Suspension Bridge that he designed in Bristol is, in my opinion, the prettiest bridge in all of the UK.

The Great Western Railway initially used a different type of track for its trains than the rest of the country and it ran through the West. This track made for a smoother ride. It was rejected later because it was too expensive to make standard. The lines had to be re-laid. However, the GWR was there to stay. Until the 1940s, trains were made by men and women working in the very buildings that now house the museum and the outlet mall.

All Aboard!
Once in the museum (6 pounds per adult/4 pounds per child/10 % discount for National Trust Members), you walk through excellent recreations of the machine shop with its whizzing belts and whirring lathes to the boiler shop that was once so noisy that the people who worked in there went deaf by the age of 30. Kids will have plenty of buttons to push and pull and see. You can walk under one of the fastest trains that ever came off a production line. You can get on a footplate and make a train "go" through the English countryside in the train driving simulator. You can take a 20 p coin and play some of the penny arcade games that you would have once found at the seaside vacation destinations where GWR trains terminated their journeys.

Tip:
After you've seen the museum (1-2 hours), go into the outlet mall and grab a quick and inexpensive lunch in the foodcourt. You'll have more variety for your family there than you'll find at a services station.

Then push on with your journey to Bath or London.

Dyrham Park is not a place that I would imagine a lot of tourists from countries outside the United Kingdom visit because it's a little bit off the beaten path from Bath. With that said, if you have a car, and an interest in architecture, interior design, or gardening, it's well worth a visit.

What is Dyrham Park? Built for William Blathwayt, a Secretary of War for England in the 17th century, this is a Baroque country estate set on almost 300 acres of gorgeous parkland.

When you visit the estate, you park (for free) up at the ticket office and then either make a 20-minute walk or a bus-ride down to the house itself.

You'll notice the park is inhabited by deer, and we loved seeing them bounding about the land, chasing one another as our bus drove slowly by them.

The gardens of the house open before the house itself, so if you get to Dyrham Park at 11 am--12 in the winter season--you might want to grab a cuppa tea in the café. The friend that I was with loves flowers, so after a quick bite to eat, we had a great time wandering about the immaculately kept grounds.

When it's time for the house to open, you get an audio wand to guide you through the splendid rooms. Inside you'll see that the house's owner had a love of all Dutch things. There's even a delft-tiled dairy at the end of the tour!

My favorite thing to see was a perspective piece in one hallway. This is a life-sized painting, and it featured a dog and a birdcage. Hung opposite a doorway, it looked fairly flat--though novel--up close. However, as I moved through the hall to other rooms, when I looked over my shoulder at the painting, an uber-cool optical illusion took place. The dog and bird cage become three dimensional, and the tiles on the floor of the painting begin to extend back as if the painting was not a painting at all but another section of the long hallway. I've never seen anything quite like this before, so it was especially interesting.

The tour of the house and grounds took us several hours, but we had lunch on site and were in no hurry. As the tour is at your own pace, you could certainly move through quicker.

A most enjoyable day.

Cost? National Trust members gain free entry. Otherwise, an adult cost £9.80 for the grounds and house. You can see the grounds only for £3.80. While the house would not be a favorite thing for a child to visit, a ticket for younger members of your family will set you back £4.80. A child's grounds only ticket is £2. Family combos are available.

The park is open year round, every day of the week. The house has limited hours in winter and it is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays most months of the year except in July and August.

Westonbirt, The National Arboretum, is located in the southern-most section of the Cotswolds, just north of Bath, just south of Tetbury. Instead of going towards Bath from Junction 18 off the M4, you would take the round-a-bout exit onto the A46 going towards Stroud.

What is an arboretum anyway? Well, the beginning of the word gives you a clue. On Arbor Day in the United States, people plant trees. So an arboretum is a tree garden. A friend of mine heard this was a good place to visit in the autumn, so we planned a day to go "leaf peaking."

What do you do at an arboretum? You walk and look at the trees, of course! If you're a photographer, you get there extra early so you'll have plenty of paths to roam alone. In the quiet, you'll be able to take your time framing sugar maples and magnolias and sequoias and chestnut trees in your camera lense without being disturbed by other people. With dappled sunlight on the ground and a nip of cold in the air, you'll easily wile away a morning. After all, you'll have the Old Arboretum to explore. This dates back to the 1850s. You'll find signs that give interesting facts about some of the trees you'll be viewing. For instance, the Romans introduced certain types of chestnut trees to England because they liked to eat the chestnuts that fall in such abundance to the ground. In Moravia, these same types of chestnuts are used to make a particular kind of beer! Go figure. Then there are more paths to walk in the Silk Wood where you can even take your dog. Paths are marked for the best viewing in season, and loops take a little over an hour to stroll.

What appeals the most to children? Kids love to be outside and active, so they will like walking through the arboretum. Get them an ice cream in the café! Or let them play on the small playground while you have a cuppa tea.

What appeals the most to adults? There are guided walks and other events that help explain the natural world to those who are interested. We saw several photographers with their tri-pods wandering from tree to tree during our visit.

Cost? The price changes according to season, but the most expensive time to see the trees is in autumn. Then tickets are £7.50 per adult. Kids are much cheaper. Parking is free.

Bottom line? This is a nice place to take a hike. It's flat and easy going. The trees are lovely. If it's a pretty day, you'll get some fresh air and take some nice pictures. Special events like "An Enchanted Christmas" when they put lights on the trees at night have a special appeal. With that said, this will only be fun if you really care about trees.

Open from 9am-5pm daily.

Bath Glass is well known in the West Country. Normally colored a pale aqua blue, it's handmade in Bath, and I have often stopped by the store near the Pultney Bridge to look at the jewelry. I finally decided to see exactly how this glass is made in January 2008.

Where do you go? There are two glass shops in Bath where you can buy Bath glass. However, you need to go to the factory store on Walcot Street to see glass blowing demonstrated. This is about a ten minute stroll from Bath Abbey.

What was the experience like? We took a seat in front of the ovens where the glass is heated. Before the demonstration started, a gentleman showed our small group what he was going to make: a Roman water jug. Then he quickly got to work.

The glass was put on the end of a long tube. The worker blew into this tube as if he was blowing into a horn or on a straw. The hot glass that was glowing red at the other end of the tube began to expand... like a balloon. It was really fascinating to watch this "bubble" taking shape.

As the man worked, an audio-recording explained the process we were viewing... the chemicals involved that made the glass look green while hot, the amount of practice a glass worker needs to master his craft, why the glass from Bath is collectable, etc.

While watching a glass handle being stretched like taffy and applied to the water jug, I was entralled.

The entire demonstration was around fifteen minutes long... perfect for a child's "arts-and-crafts" attention span. As the finished product was held up for all of us to see, our small crowd clapped in appreciation.

How much does this cost? £3.50 per adult, £2 concessions and children under 16, £8 for a family of four, Under 5 is free.

Tip: If you're a local resident, ask how two tickets can be purchased for the price of one.

Demonstration Start Times: 10:15, 11:30, 12:15, 3:15, and 4. Closed Sundays.

Is this worth doing? A demonstration doesn't take a lot of time, but I found watching one interesting. I also love, love, love the gorgeous vase my husband bought for me as a souvenir of our time in Bath. If you don't want to get something this large to take home, I think the glass balls in the gift shop make beautiful Christmas ornaments to remind you of your vacation in England.
Factory seconds and apprentice pieces are on offer for a price break.

When I first had the two boys in Bath, we considered going on the Bizarre Bath Walking Tour, but we ran out of time. The next time I was in Bath as a tourist, I tried again, but dinner took too long for us to make it. Then I moved to the UK and another IgoUgo guide, Zabelle, was in England, so I thought I'd have an excuse to go and track down the tour again. Problem then was that she visited in the winter and the tour only operates from March to November. Well, this was turning into a quest! I mean, I love Bath. It's one of my all-time favourite cities, and this tour is lauded by all kinds of touristy-directing folk like Rick Steves, Frommers, and Lonely Planet. I wanted to go and experience it because the PR machine said it was fabulous. I finally told my husband---rain or shine---we were going to do it one Friday night.

So what IS the Bizarre Bath Walking Tour and when/where does it take place? Well, I wasn't sure what to expect, but I'll get to what I discovered it to be in just a moment. If you want to go on the comedy walk, it meets every night from end of March to beginning of November at 8 PM in front of the Huntsman Inn on the corner of North Parade Passage and Terrace Walk. You don't have to make reservations. You just show up. The guy will sell you a wrist-band to wear as you walk about with the group. Don't panic if you get there a couple minutes after 8. While he starts fairly promptly, he does an introduction before getting around to the business of money.

The walk then takes a little under 2 hours, but there's more standing than walking, so no worries if you're not in great shape. I mean, you will have to go up a stair or two, but the pace is a stroll, and most of the route is flat and in the same central section of Bath. It's very pleasant on a nice night.

Okay. So what did the walk turn out to be? Well, I thought that we were going to be in for some bizarre stories about Bath. I thought that we would hear about its quirky founders, the dark underbelly of social life, the strange habits of famous writers... you know, anecdotes. Uh.... no. The first thing our host did was reject any notion that the tour has anything to do with anything at all historical or factual. That's just not what this is. Instead, it's a kind of stand-up comedy show that could be set in any city at all. Bizarre, huh?

Was this enough for me?

Well... ummm... honestly? No.

Having said this, I think the show DOES have some nice things going for it. The "host" made plenty of fun of all nationalities in his midst (the one thing that showed us we were in a European city rather than in Vegas.) This was all in good humour, and I found this to be the funniest segment of the walk. Then our host took us for a pleasant wander around Bath at dusk in which he pointed out things like a red light bulb in a flat's window---"Bath's Red Light District". He punctuated his banter with several magic tricks, which I won't tell you about as I don't want to ruin the show for you. All I can say is they were nicely executed. The group that we were a part of was an especially large one, but they were all game to play along with the host and do things like boo and hiss other tour groups, which was certainly amusing.

Would this be a good family attraction? It's not geared towards children so there are a couple of bawdy jokes and maybe a slipped-in bad word or two. However, the jokes would fly over most children's heads, and he does tell younger kids to stick their hands over their ears on occasion. It's certainly not over-the-top with adult material, and I thought the boys I once dragged around Bath would have really enjoyed seeing the host's slight-of-hand. I'd say kids 9 and up would like this tour.

Would I recommend it to other adults? Well, that depends on who was asking. If you want something light to do after dinner, it would certainly suit. If you want to know a lot about Bath as a city, take one of the free walking tours the council offers in the daytime instead. These tours are very different creatures indeed.

Bottom line? The show is well executed. It's just a matter of what kind of show you want to see. Either way, the cost is £8 per adult. There are reductions for students and kids.

More information? Check out: www.bizarrebath.co.uk