My first full day in Beijing consisted of getting somewhat lost and ending up in Beihai Park (ballroom dancing going on to the strains of Red River Valley) with an audio guide to the Forbidden City. (I entered at the gate across from the park, even though a "guide" outside tried to tell me there was no entrance there.) Mobs of parasol-wielding or cap-wearing tourists poured through, and I paid my obligatory visit to the "art show:" I actually recommend doing this once if you’re good at saying no, as then you can tell all the rest of the "art students" at every other location that you’ve already seen it. Works well! There is lots of reconstruction going on, but it’s still pretty magical. But oh, was it hot. Beijing was in the grips of a major heat wave all 5 days that I was there: it went up to 44°C, which made my movements somewhat slower than usual.
I visited both the "New" and "Old" Summer Palaces; there is quite a difference between the ultimate traditional Chinese of the new and the strangely structured European ruins of the old, with its very popular stone maze. I went by taxi for ¥38 out to the Old Summer Palace and ended up paying ¥22 to go the mile or so to the new one, but that’s really the only odd taxi experience I had. Almost always the cabbies were polite, obliging, and honest.
My visit to the Great Wall took place on a day of beautiful blue skies and puffy, white clouds (yay!), but also of the highest temps of the week (boo!). I booked through the Far East Hotel (where good Internet access, by the way, is ¥10 an hour) for Jinshanling to Simatai; as it happens, the climb up to Jinshanling in the heat proved to be a bit much for a respiratory system, already a bit off from Beijing air, so I ended up taking the "shortcut" after about six towers, down through the farms below; my accompanying "local people," of course, had souvenirs to sell at very high prices. I climbed back up at Simatai. There are such incredible views, and it truly was a highlight of the whole trip, uncomfortable 3-hour ride, souvenir sellers, and horrifying heat notwithstanding. There’s just nothing like standing on the wall and seeing it continue in that jagged pattern for as far as one can see.
The main building of the Temple of Heaven complex is undergoing renovation (until April 2006, according to an electronic sign), but the cypress forests and other structures were interesting. After that, I tried for the bird and flower market in the area, but alas, it is no longer. Speaking of which, I used and loved Cadogan’s Beijng guidebook; it worked wonderfully for me (except for the market, of course, and there is even a warning that the markets are quite subject to change!). It steered me to one of my favorite places, the Milu Deer Park.
The cabby who took me out there had to call for directions. When I tell you that I was the only person there, you may understand why (¥51 ride). The Milu (Pere David) deer were peacefully galumphing around in their big preserve. It was a most peaceful spot, and I stayed to watch them for some time, as well as exploring the "extinction cemetery" and wetland area. I met some more lovely people here: rather than calling for a cab to take me back, a member of the staff actually drove me all the way back to my hotel! They seemed pleased that I had come, but that was certainly above the call of duty. I believe there is a bus that comes out this way, but I was running short on time when I came out.
My last day was spent in the shopping area, and I also went to Quanjude for roast duck. (The rather macabre duck in a chef’s hat is a tip-off to the location.) It was very good, although I’m sure there are other less touristy places as good or better. I was, in fact, a tourist, so I went and really enjoyed the whole production (although I did get Marx Bros. flashes when I heard, "Here your duck soup").