Lads in London

In a central location, we found that the London Marriott Hotel Marble Arch was not too far from Harrods in Knightsbridge.

So, what was it like? The first thing we noticed here was the high level of security. Most certainly due to the terrorist attacks in London around the time of our visit, the hotel staff took safety very seriously. With a baggage checkpoint at the front door and a gentleman with a security wand that was waved over each entering guest, I felt for a moment like I was back at the airport! However, I did not mind this at all. The staff was very polite, and we felt this was a very minor inconvenience.

How were the rooms? Though rooms are traditionally smaller in Europe than in the US, we were pleased that one room could still accommodate our entire family. My husband and I had a comfortable bed, while the two boys took the foldout couch. Housekeeping was quick to come up with the needed sheets as soon as I called them. Our window looked down on the busy street below. A newspaper was delivered for us in the morning.

Restaurant? We enjoyed a nice meal in the restaurant downstairs. The service here was fabulous. While my husband and I both chose Lebanese entrées from the predominantly Mediterranean choices, the boys were happy with pizza from a kid's menu. The hummus was wonderful, and I also liked the Lebanese pastries (Fatayer) stuffed with lamb, cheese, and spinach. I noticed that the room service menu offered more-traditional English fare, like fish-and-chips and sausage and mash.

Extras? There is a pool and fitness center here. Children are only allowed to swim until 8:30pm, but they enjoyed this wind-down time. High-speed Internet access is available for a fee.

It has all you'd expect from a Marriott.

From the moment we walked into our suite's foyer with its own half bath, we knew we were going to have a comfortable stay. The Conrad is a high end Hilton, and it lived up to all our expectations for a nice Christmas holiday in London.

What were the accommodations like? With a large desk to one side for anyone who might need to work, the front room had a fold-out couch and a television that were perfect for our son. He loved the fact that the staff always put slippers by his bed during the turn-down service each evening.

A balcony with a small table was also great for enjoying a sip of tea while looking down on Chelsea Harbour. I loved the sailboats adorned with lights at night for the holiday season.

Of course there was a full mini-bar. When we arrived, a small plate of creme brulee desserts were here welcoming us. Nice touch. We were given a bottle of champagne on Christmas Eve.

The comfortable master bedroom had contemporary furnishings with silver accents, its own TV, and plenty of space for clothes and luggage. I liked the small vanity table in front of a gilded mirror where I could blow dry my hair and put on my makeup in the mornings.

The master bathroom was also spacious with a shower and separate tub.

Each morning we enjoyed an English breakfast in the restaurant. A cold meal was included in the rate. The full deal was surprisingly reasonable at just five pounds a head. A small bar and sitting area were also nice to enjoy a drink at night.

On Christmas Day when much of the city was shut down, we made use of the full service gym that still ran a half day schedule. The swimming pool was a big hit with our kid. The locker rooms were fabulous. If you forgot your swim suit, no worries. You could buy one.

Any downsides? We ended up taking a 4- to 5-pound cab ride to the nearest tube station whenever we went out because it was such a long walk in the cold.

Best thing? This is really a marvelous hotel all around, but I have to say the service was fabulous. Always friendly. Always helpful. Five stars all the way.

After spending almost 3 weeks in the U.K., we were tired and anxious to get home—we did not want a big hassle getting to the airport before our flight out. So, we opted to stay at the Renaissance London Gatwick near the airport. There was a shuttle to and from the airport for £2 per person,£1.50 for kids. (If you need to be picked up from the airport, simply go to bus stop 11 in the South Terminal.)

When we arrived at the hotel, we were met with a very friendly smile at the front desk. The candy in a dish the lady offered my son was a nice touch. I noticed a small business center that was opened 24-hours by the lobby, as we quickly got our room key and made our way to the elevator.

What were the rooms like? We found our room to be very basic, but spacious with two twin beds. It wasn't luxurious, but comfortable. I liked being able to turn off the main lights with a switch by my bed. We ordered room service and chose something to watch on TV. When my Caesar salad came I was shocked to bite into a sardine! When I rechecked the menu, however, I saw that fish were indeed part of this standard dish, and the mistake was all mine. The kitchen quickly brought me something else when I asked for it.

Extras? A health center is available, but we didn't check this out. There is a bar downstairs if you want to grab a drink. If rooms are available, Marriott Rewards can be used here. I got a great rate for this place by booking ahead. I'd stay here again.

A friend of mine who was celebrating her birthday gave me a call to tell me that her husband had booked a fabulous weekend for two in London. Where would they be staying? In the Waldorf. Nice husband. We met them for breakfast one morning, and I had the chance to ask them about---and take a look into---their fabulous Executive room.

First, the service at the hotel proved to be as phenomenal as its reputation. My friends said their baggage was whisked up to their room almost before they could get there themselves. From the doorman in his derby hat and tails, to the folks at the front desk, the staff here was professional and efficient.

Second, the location of the Waldorf can't be beat if you're interested in all the beautiful bits that tourists usually want to see in London. Covent Garden is--literally--right around the corner. Trafalgar Square and Buckingham Palace are both just short strolls away. The hotel is next door to theatres, cafes, historic sites... It's in the heart of... well... everything.

Third, the rooms are pretty cool, too. We walked up with our friends to see an uber modern interior. Think flat screen TV, twisted chandelier, bright colors. Then add a bathroom encased in frosted glass and a "butler" for hanging clothes that is shaped like a metal woman! Of course there are all the extra touches you'd want from a luxury hotel…Crabtree and Evelyn toiletries, tons of floor-space, high-speed Internet access, restaurants, an in-door pool... Executive rooms also enjoy access to the Executive lounge for juices, croissants, etc., if guests need a little nibble of something extra before setting out for the day.

In the end, my friends had an absolutely fabulous weekend, and they loved the time they spent at the Waldorf. It was a splurge, to be sure. But some occasions are worth it.

So were there any drawbacks to this hotel?

If you have a car, there is very limited parking and you will need to pre-book it with the valet when you reserve your room. Alternatively, the Covent Garden tube stop is extremely close...or you could get to the hotel via taxi.

When visiting, my husband and I were fortunate to find on-street parking (free on a Sunday) right by the hotel, but this was like winning the slots at Vegas.

Then again...why do you want to drive in London? Leave the car at home and don't worry about it!

My friend thought the bathroom was super-cool...but it also made her blush. If you're staying in a room with a colleague rather than a spouse, you might see a bit more than you bargained for in some of the Executive rooms. Simply ask when you check-in about the set-up. I'm sure some of the bathrooms are more traditional.

Bottom line? This is a lovely hotel that comes with a large price-tag. If you can afford a little indulgence, the Waldorf will fit the bill.

Oh, where do I start?

My husband had an early flight from Gatwick for a business meeting on the continent, so the company's secretary booked 2 nights in this hotel: one night pre-departure and one night for a late-night arrival back in the UK.

Well, I think the lady might have been mad at my husband!

My son and I tagged along so that we could crash in the hotel room and take advantage of our close proximity to London while my husband was working.

This seemed like a good plan...

First, let's start with Hotel Positives: The rooms are cheap for London. The hotel provides a shuttle to Gatwick only 4 miles away, and parking is free. The family room is very spacious. They give plenty of toiletries in the bathroom. The pub food is okay. (We ate a quick burger upon arrival.) The front desk staff spoke English.

Negatives: My husband made the comment as we were standing in the lobby that the hotel was probably pretty nice in the 1950s. That was a lonnngggg time ago. As we made our way to the elevator, we noticed the staff had used old carpet and duct-tape to cover a space on a hallway floor that was missing its tiles. There were signs of dilapidation like this everywhere. In our room, the television---with no remote control---was as small as the TV I had in my university dorm room. The beds were big... but uncomfortable. I wouldn't take a shower in the bathroom because there was mold in the caulking. There was a tea service, but the cups were dirty. Blech! There is a pool, but the poor standard of cleanliness in our room did not inspire me to want to check it out. The easiest way to put this for Americans would be that you would pay $35-$40 a night to stay in a hotel of this standard in the US. Thus, in the UK, the $130+ you'll pay is going to be a hard pill to swallow. I mean, I don't want to sound overly posh and snooty, but I do want the adjective "clean" to be applied to any place where I stay. The only reason this hotel was at all acceptable to me was that I wasn't paying for it. We were close enough to London to drive to Hampton Court Palace (about 50 minutes) and enjoy a great day while my husband was working. We spent as little time as possible in the hotel.

Bottom line? The absolute only reason to stay here would be if you just want to crash at the cheapest place you can find near Gatwick. (This was, in fact, the reason that the room was booked in the first place.) London is an exceptionally expensive city for rooms, and sometimes £30 saved can really help out on a family vacation. But the standard you are getting here is truly 2 star. Don't expect more.

I would not stay here ever again.

We had an early flight out of Gatwick, so we decided to book into the Holiday Inn. This is a hotel I would definitely recommend for anyone in the UK who needs a hotel plus parking. We got a park and fly deal, which included a triple room plus up to 8 days of parking for only £120. In London, that's a bargain.

So how was the hotel itself?
The Holiday Inn offers good, clean lodging at a fair price. This isn't luxury, but it's not compromising much either. You'll get a fairly generic room... but it will be comfortable. Depending on how you approach the airport, you'll be able to see the familiar green logo glowing on top of the hotel to guide you to it. The turn-offs to The Holiday Inn are also well marked on the appropriate round-a-bouts.

What was our room like?
Our teenaged son's bed was a fold-out, which was truly only large enough for one person. Maybe you could fit two toddlers here, but even that might be a stretch because toddlers squirm. If you have a family of four, ask for a true double. I think the cost is the same... if available. Still, our room was plenty large enough for my family. The standard desk was there. The mini-bar was fully stocked. The bathroom with its black and white tiles had a little bit of personality though I noticed some wear and tear on the ceiling above the shower. No matter. All was clean. Extra pillows were in the sizable closet.

How does the parking deal work?
You give the receptionist your keys. The staff puts the car into a long-term car park. When you get back from vacation, go to the front desk. If you go over the time for which you originally booked, you settle up the extra fees then.

How do you get to the airport?
There's a shuttle that takes guests to and from the airport. It costs £2 per person, and you pay the bus driver when you board. I believe buses start at 5 AM, but you need to ask when you check into the hotel.

I am certain that my family will use this hotel again.

With several IgoUgo guides living in and around London, I took advantage of an invitation to have a pint by going to the Pillars of Hercules on our first day in the city. Located in Soho, the pub is near many theaters and cinemas. In fact, Leicester Square where you can find half-priced, same day tickets for a variety of shows is just a few blocks away.

Back to the pub itself... This is one of the oldest pubs in the neighborhood. I read somewhere that the pub is almost certainly the same Hercules Pillars that is mentioned in Charles Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities though I have no way to confirm if this tidbit of trivia is true. (It is certain that Dickens spent a good bit of time in Soho when he was alive and writing in London.)

Going to the counter to get a cup of tea, I had a nice chat with the friendly girl taking orders from customers. Food is traditional English,fare and there are a variety of ales available.

Unfortunately, many pubs do not accept children. We discovered this is one of them. The boys had to eat lunch with my husband around the corner while I enjoyed a quick drink with my two friends. I've found I always enjoy spending time with people who are actually from a country that I am visiting, so this was certainly a pleasant hour or so wiled away in very good company getting tips on how best to see the city.

Bottom line? While not for families, this is a decent place to take a break from touring and grab a drink. It's even nicer if you're meeting up with someone else from London. It's a particular favorite with IgoUgo guide (and London expert) actonsteve.

Windsor Castle is the weekend residence of the Queen. It is the oldest structure in the area barring the Tower of London. It is a short train/car ride outside of London itself, and it is hard to miss when driving along the motorway. If you go outside of the capital and venture into Windsor, you most certainly are doing so because you want to see the castle (or Legoland), but you will also find a bustling, quaint town worth a little bit of time in its own right.

So, where might you find a cuppa tea in Windsor?
Well, in front of Windsor Castle near where people buy their tickets is a statue of Queen Victoria. She's impossible to miss. She's the portly lady with a little crown and scepter. If you were to curtsy to this venerable stone monarch, your eyes cast to her ankles, you'd then turn right, walk less than a block, and find The Crooked House of Windsor on your left.

The small... no... tiny, white building used to be a type of market house. It was first built in 1592. This was destroyed. A new house went up in in the late 1600s. It needed to be restructured. The builders in 1718 used unseasoned green oak, which caused the house to tilt. This is the building's claim to fame. This is it's "good" defect. This is why it's hard to miss on the street.

After leaving Windsor Castle too early for dinner and too late for lunch, a friend and I decided to pop into the Crooked House for a spot of tea... and a sticky toffee pudding. (While we didn't eat a full meal here, I noticed this restaurant does offer a breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu... traditional British.)

We went up the narrow staircase and took a seat on the second floor. So this is England! Yet I had to laugh when I overheard the couple to our right speaking in German, the family across from us speaking in Spanish, and our waitress asking for our order with a French accent. Since I'm an American, I don't think there was anyone in the place at the time of my visit who was actually English.

Hmmm.....

Perhaps this is more of a touristy kind of place than I had first surmised?!?

But you know what?

No matter!

The service was still fast and friendly. The atmosphere was "Snow White and the Seven Dwarves" adorable. It was super close to the castle and easy to find. The prices seemed reasonable. And the dessert hit the right spot.

Plus, there was once a secret passage to the castle itself in the basement that was used by a king to meet his mistress!

Who cares if it's a little touristy? Who cares if it's so small it doesn't contain a W/C?

The Crooked House has character.

I'd certainly recommend it to a friend.

It's memorable.

For more information on hours and the menu, visit www.crooked-house.com.

Near the London Dungeon, the Great Fire of London Monument was built between 1671 and 1677 by the same architect of St. Paul's Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren. Two hundred and two feet high, it reminds the people of London of the fire that swept from a baker's house in Pudding Lane across the city on September 2, 1666.

Seeing the two boys we had in tow with us, a helpful cab driver suggested the monument as a wonderful site for a family to visit. We were glad he did! For just a few pounds, we were granted entry into the base of the monument. Then it was up, up, up as we climbed the 311 steps that lead to the viewing platform on top. After the huffing and puffing on the narrow spiral staircase, the breeze, when finally outside up top, felt absolutely delicious. Caged in for safety, the platform afforded a bird's eye view of the city. We didn't linger long, but we enjoyed the minutes we took pointing out the landmarks we recognized below us.

Once down again, the boys were given a certificate that proclaimed they had survived the climb as a keepsake to take home.

Everyone we talked to about our trip to London told us that the tower was the place to take kids, so this was at the top of our list of attractions to visit.

We arrived a little late in the afternoon, but were still able to join another group of tourists guided by a red and blue-clad "beefeater" through the grounds. This greatly enhanced our visit, as the wry-witted Yeoman Warder explained the history attached to the centuries-old buildings. The tour ended in the Chapel Royal of St. Peter ad Vincula, which covered the bones of hundreds of executed prisoners (including royalty) who did not visit the tower by choice.

Always a lover of Tudor history, I was especially fascinated by hearing about the "Queen's House" that was built for Anne Boleyn as a wedding present, only to hold her during the grim days that led up to her execution. The boys looked for the place in the stairs that once hid the bodies of two ill-fated princes who disappeared before their uncle took their throne. Then we took an hour or so to poke around the displays of royal armour in the White Tower, a building that was put up on orders of William the Conqueror!

While I've heard the queue to see the crown jewels can be long, we sped through near closing time. To top it all off, the kids spent a mint in the crowded gift shop when we were done with our visit. It was an enjoyable afternoon.

Entrance fees: £12 for adults, £10 for kids. Admission for kids under 5 is free.

Tip: After the tower, go down to the docks by the Tower Bridge and catch a boat ride on the Thames. This is a quick way to see a lot of the city with children.

Founded during the Queen Victoria years, the National Portrait Gallery was meant to be more of a historical museum than an art gallery: a veritable who's who of politicians, artists, writers, scientists, and other notables in Great Britain. We were walking to Trafalgar Square when we saw the front entrance to the gallery, so I couldn't resist going inside.

What was it like? Now, I have to admit, the two eleven-year-old boys in our party were not exactly thrilled with this museum. In fact, I felt as if the goal for them was to race through the floors as quickly as they could without me snapping at them to slow down. With that said, they did perk up a bit in the Tudor Gallery where the likes of King Henry VIII are on display. There I could point out some of the famous faces that would go with the stories they would hear in the Tower of London. (On a side note, I was personally surprised to see that Mary Queen of Scots really wasn't any prettier than Elizabeth I. I remember reading more than once that Mary's looks were a threat to her cousin's ego, even while her existence was a threat to the English throne.) In turn, some of the portraits in the 20th century galleries were of people they recognized on their own. They liked some of the styles used by the more modern painters here--"Less stuffy," I believe I heard one of them say--and they actually lingered over a few pieces.

I would've spent more time here, but I didn't completely mind submitting to the children's quick pace because the permanent exhibits are free.

Bottom line? Certainly worth a wander, even if you have your kids in tow. After you leave the gallery, head over to see the lions at the foot of Lord Nelson in Trafalgar Square. The boys enjoyed walking around outside here, where they didn't have to be contained or quiet.

Okay. Let's get one thing straight. This is an amusement park kind of attraction. This isn't full of culture, great history, or highbrow entertainment. However, if you've got kids along on your vacation--especially boys--you've gotta visit!

What was it like? Entering the London Dungeon felt to me a bit like entering a Halloween funhouse. It's dark, dank, and spooky. An actress dressed as a 16th-century wench in bad need of a bath was our first guide. With arms waving and eyes blinking, she tried to give us a taste of the horrors that traitors to the crown might expect in a London dungeon. Though devices of torture indicated a prisoner's life wasn't any picnic, the rats carrying the Black Death through the streets of town made free life above pretty miserable too! At one point, our son's friend was chosen to "stand before the judge" for having a smutty face in a mock courtroom. The actor, dressed in a white wig, informed him that his fate wouldn't be to live in the dungeon. His crime used to be punished with hanging!

Bottom line? Granted, a lot of this tour is pure cheese, but there was enough real history sprinkled in to make it interesting for parents, and the cheese held the kids' interests. I have to admit, the Labyrinth of the Lost, a giant mirror maze inside the dungeon, was a lot of fun. It made my husband and me laugh like children. Plus, we got to ride in an Underground boat to Traitor's Gate!

One word of caution: Some of the bits on Jack the Ripper are a bit graphic. They show the actual morgue photos of several of the murdered prostitutes. I did not think it was that scary, but one of our boys was unable to get to sleep that night. (The other didn't think twice about it.) For this reason, I wouldn't take younger kids on this tour, though I did see some really young ones in our group. Only you know your own kid. Use your best judgment.

We were going back to our hotel after a long afternoon when the cab driver turned around and asked if we had gone shopping at Harrods yet. The two boys in the car made a face (Shopping?!? Yeck!), but the cabbie exclaimed, "Everyone who visits London has to go into Harrods at least once. There's no other store in the world quite like it!"

Well, who could argue with that?

From the moment we entered, Harrods was a frenetic collection of colors, sights, and sounds. The high ceilings with their beautiful chandeliers felt to me like they belonged more in a mansion or a palace than in a specialty mall, but they tipped me off to the name of the Harrods game: Luxury Shopping! From Furla purses to Versace shirts to high-end jewelry to expensive pastries in the bakery, Harrods has provided plenty of ways to spend those pounds since it first opened as a small, service-oriented store in London in 1849! Crowded with shoppers and all types of merchandise, this is a consumer's paradise. The guy we saw in a tux beautifully singing opera from a balcony overlooking the escalator would have seemed over-the-top anywhere else, but here? He just fit in with the mood of the place.

Whether or not you want to buy something, Harrods is worth visiting for the experience.

Walking from the London Bridge Tube Station to the Globe Theatre the day after Christmas 2005, we wandered upon The Clink Prison. The sky was gray, and cold rain was falling. Prison or not, it looked warmer inside than it was in the street. Plus, it was open.

Sold!

The most interesting thing I learned here was how this dark place has lent its name to the English vernacular. Jails are often called 'the clink' today because so many prostitutes and other criminals were once thrown into the dank confines of the Clink Prison in London. Begun in Saxon times, The Clink also housed heretics who disagreed with the powers that be (not necessarily God) and unfortunates who couldn't pay their debts. It was ruled over by the Bishop of Winchester who had a palace nearby.

So what was the attraction like to visit? Well, in all honesty, it was just okay. This is a fairly small museum that won't take you long to get through. While the history is certainly interesting, the presentation was a bit... uh... lacking. You simply walk through and read the signs for yourself. There is some concentration on the torture used on the poor prisoners, and you get a sense of how awful it must have been to be housed with masses of others in such a small space. Yet, you somehow won't be able to shake the feeling of hokey.

Is this a good family attraction? Small children would be bored. My eleven-year-old son thought it was okay but not all that memorable. At five pounds per adult, it seemed a little expensive to me.

With all that said, The Clink is one of the few museums that operates seven days a week including during holidays when much of the rest of London is shut down. Open from 10AM-6PM, it'll take less than an hour to see. The little booklet you can buy with your ticket is worth the extra quid. I found it to be more interesting than the museum!

Check http://www.clink.co.uk for more information.

Oxford is known in England as The City of Spires. Though our hotel was in London, we took a day trip from Paddington Station to see this vibrant, historic place. A train ticket for one adult was less than 12 pounds. The trip from London to Oxford on an express train took about an hour.  

How did we go about seeing the city? When we got to Oxford we were happy to see a tourist information center within the train station. This was very helpful. Here we bought tickets for a drop-on-drop-off bus tour that gave us a great historical overview of the city as we rode around listening to either a live guide or a recording with provided headphones.

What attractions did you see up close? We got off the bus at Christ Church because our son knew that part of the Harry Potter movies were filmed here. Oxford University itself is a little bit like a country with many independant "states" or "colleges" operating under its umbrella. Some of these campuses are open, but many are not. The public areas are worth seeing. The schools have had a reputation for excellence for more than 800 years. I loved hearing about the many students who have graduated from here and then gone on to leave their marks on the world. I loved seeing the Sheldonian Theatre designed by Sir Christopher Wren after he studied at Oxford. Our tour guide also pointed out the apartments where a much younger and unknown American lived before he became President of the United States. While not my favorite of politicians, I have always admired Bill Clinton's accomplishments as a Rhodes scholar. Apparently, Chelsea Clinton followed in her father's footsteps and studied here as well.

What was the highlight for us? By far the most fun I had in Oxford was at the Eagle and Child where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis often met with their literary group, the Inklings. A Public House since 1650, the interior here was full of dark woods, stain glass, wobbly stools, and a big fireplace. I could see why some say it was the inspiration for The Prancing Pony in The Lord of the Rings. Decorated with holly and greens for Christmas, the pub felt warm and inviting. The food was pretty good, too. Near a letter signed by some of the pubs most famous patrons, we enjoyed thick hamburgers with brown sauce, a ham and pineapple melt sandwich, steak fries (chips), and treacle sponge for dessert. Yes. We had several pints. It was a thrill for me to be in the same room where two of my favorite writers had once enjoyed each other's company.

Bottom Line? If you have an extra day in London, take the time to visit Oxford. Small and compact, you can get a good feel for the place in a day visit. And you'll get to see one of the most lovely cities in England. I could have lingered longer.

I had a couple of hours off while working in Central London, and I didn't want to waste a gorgeous day. One of my colleagues suggested I take a short walk from Victoria Embankment to enjoy some of the outdoor entertainment available in Covent Garden, so I checked the map and eagerly took off.

Now, I have to admit, in my American head I was expecting an area like Central Park to appear...a green space in the middle of the city with lots of fountains and trees and musicians.

This is not what Covent Garden turned out to be.

However, I loved the Covent Garden Market, and I think anyone with a family--or anyone who likes to poke through eclectic shops--should put this on their list for things to see and do in the city.

What is Covent Garden?
Around 2,000 years ago when the Romans were still in town Covent Garden was part of a settlement. It got the root for its modern day name a little later on in the 1200s when it served as a kitchen garden for a convent. As time progressed, it served as a fruit and vegetable market for the city. By the 1800s, it was a thriving site of commerce but it wasn't until 1980 that it really started to look like the place that it is today: a specialty shopping center that provides a fun experience for the whole family.

Why will kids like this place?
Known for its public street theater, there is always some juggler, acrobat, or other type of crowd pleaser performing near the piazza. Kids love this type of show...and it's all free barring what you might wish to tip a performer for his or her time. There are also special events such as a festival on Saint George's Day that cater to families.

Why will adults like this place?
If you're not in the mood for regular street theatre, you can often sit down in the courtyard and listen a classically-trained opera singer belting out soothing tunes for your pleasure. There was a statuesque soprano there the day of my visit who thrilled her listeners with songs from Phantom of the Opera. Delightful.

How's the actual shopping?
Instead of the tea towel with the queen's face printed onto it, shoppers will find a more interesting mix of unique things to buy and take home. There are hand-blown glass balls to hang in windows, custom-made jewelry, art, unique toys... and best of all, you can actually find reasonable prices.

Some useful particulars:
Opening times for the market are Monday-Saturday, 10am-8pm.
On Sundays the hours are shortened to 11am-6pm. Some of the cafés and restaurants are open in the evenings.

Check out more details at Covent Garden's official website: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk  

If you're enamored with Tudor history--or if you've read Phillipa Gregory's book, The Other Boleyn Girl--you might want to take a little trip outside of London to Hever Castle, the ancestral Boleyn home. The easiest way to do this is via car, but the drive is motorway until you get to Kent...about an hour south of Gatwick. I actually drove to Kent to visit Chartwell, Winston Churchill's home, but I was delighted to discover Hever so close to my original attraction. A wonderful idea would be to combine these two places and make a full day. However, Hever is going to be the biggest hit with kids.

What's to see?
First, I would be remiss to not mention the beautiful area in which this castle is nestled. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of London, Kent is full of orchards, green hills, hedge fences, and sheep. The drive itself was enjoyable for me.
Second, Americans will have an added point of interest because it was an American who rescued Hever from dilapidation and lovingly restored it to its current condition. Granted, he was a Waldorf, and after his grandfather made the family fortune in the New World, he decided to be a 'gentleman', he had to return to Old Europe. Well, I can forgive him this slight to our country because I understand his attraction to England.

Third, the castle itself is most interesting. With a tour wand as my guide, I loved going from room to room and hearing about all of the past owners' fortunes. In the first room, I paused to look at the small portraits of Anne and her sister Mary. Both of these women had relationships with Henry VIII. Though Mary was only a mistress, it was perhaps better for her to be discarded than beheaded! Onward and upward I found the long gallery that contains wax figures of the Boleyns. Then there are the portraits of Anne's daughter, Elizabeth I, whose success on the throne might have been her mother's greatest revenge. Also interesting was the hidden room for taking mass used by one Catholic family that owned the castle and the hiding place downstairs where a priest was supposedly murdered. (His ghost is said to still be in residence!)

So what will be fun for children? Kids will love the Henry VIII playground, the hedge maze, and the water hazard maze near the lake. The grounds are extensive, so they will appreciate running about without having to tip-toe through a museum. Even the gardens with their ancient Italian statues (all imported by the Waldorfs) will be interesting for them to explore. Get an ice cream in the cafe at the end! Also, there's a fabulous exhibit in dollhouse minature of how homes have changed over the centuries for the aristocracy.

Cost? Adults, Castle+gardens=£10.50, Gardens Only=£8.40; Kids (5-14), Castle+gardens=£5.70, Gardens Only=£5.40. Family tickets and senior discounts are available.

Sections are closed in Winter and Castle operates on Limited Hours in that season.

If you're enamored with Tudor history--or if you've read Phillipa Gregory's book, The Other Boleyn Girl--you might want to take a little trip outside of London to Hever Castle, the ancestral Boleyn home. The easiest way to do this is via car, but the drive is motorway until you get to Kent...about an hour south of Gatwick. I actually drove to Kent to visit Chartwell, Winston Churchill's home, but I was delighted to discover Hever so close to my original attraction. A wonderful idea would be to combine these two places and make a full day. However, Hever is going to be the biggest hit with kids.

What's to see?
First, I would be remiss to not mention the beautiful area in which this castle is nestled. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of London, Kent is full of orchards, green hills, hedge fences, and sheep. The drive itself was enjoyable for me.
Second, Americans will have an added point of interest because it was an American who rescued Hever from dilapidation and lovingly restored it to its current condition. Granted, he was a Waldorf, and after his grandfather made the family fortune in the New World, he decided to be a 'gentleman', he had to return to Old Europe. Well, I can forgive him this slight to our country because I understand his attraction to England.

Third, the castle itself is most interesting. With a tour wand as my guide, I loved going from room to room and hearing about all of the past owners' fortunes. In the first room, I paused to look at the small portraits of Anne and her sister Mary. Both of these women had relationships with Henry VIII. Though Mary was only a mistress, it was perhaps better for her to be discarded than beheaded! Onward and upward I found the long gallery that contains wax figures of the Boleyns. Then there are the portraits of Anne's daughter, Elizabeth I, whose success on the throne might have been her mother's greatest revenge. Also interesting was the hidden room for taking mass used by one Catholic family that owned the castle and the hiding place downstairs where a priest was supposedly murdered. (His ghost is said to still be in residence!)

So what will be fun for children? Kids will love the Henry VIII playground, the hedge maze, and the water hazard maze near the lake. The grounds are extensive, so they will appreciate running about without having to tip-toe through a museum. Even the gardens with their ancient Italian statues (all imported by the Waldorfs) will be interesting for them to explore. Get an ice cream in the cafe at the end! Also, there's a fabulous exhibit in dollhouse minature of how homes have changed over the centuries for the aristocracy.

Cost? Adults, Castle+gardens=£10.50, Gardens Only=£8.40; Kids (5-14), Castle+gardens=£5.70, Gardens Only=£5.40. Family tickets and senior discounts are available. Sections are closed in Winter and Castle operates on Limited Hours in that season.

Sir Winston Churchill has long been one of my heroes.

Absolutely fearless, he didn't mind becoming a political joke in the years that led up to World War II as he decried policies of appeasement and warned of the evils of totalitarian regimes.

While it is hard to believe now, back then Churchill was called a war-monger because he advocated military might to deter the growth of what he saw as an evil, festering cancer in Europe. He wasn't a war-monger. With all of his predictions---including those he made later about the rise of a Soviet Empire that would be opposed to the West---he was simply correct.

Still, when the people finally called for his leadership, Churchill was up for the task. He was instrumental in bringing my country, the United States, into an alliance with the United Kingdom... but, most impressively, he rallied his people for the lonely years during which his little green island stood alone against the Nazi machine that threatened to destroy it.

A master orator, Churchill's incredible voice stirred the hearts of free men and defined for a generation the values they shared that were worth defending.

So, since we have lived in England, I've tried to visit places that were important to Churchill. Blenheim Palace near Oxford is where he was born. Nearby this massive ancestral home is a modest graveyard where he is buried. Both of these are worth seeing. But Chartwell is at the top of the list because this is where Churchill lived, and this is the place he loved.

Less than an hour drive from Gatwick Airport in London, Chartwell is worth a trip out of the city. What's more, this wonderful house is just a few miles from Hever Castle where Henry VIII wooed Anne Boleyn.

Go see both attractions for an excellent, full day.

What was Chartwell like?
It's easy to see from the grounds why Churchill bought this home overlooking the Weald of Kent in 1922. The view is inspiring. My timed-entry ticket into the house denied me access until a full hour after my arrival, so I had plenty of time to explore the gardens while I was waiting. I took a stroll through the orchards to the lake with the life-sized statue of the great man himself sitting with his wife Clementine. I walked through Churchill's open studio building, which was rather crowded, but hung floor to ceiling with his paintings.

Then it was time to queue for entry into Chartwell itself.

This is not the grandest house I've ever entered, but it had the feeling of being a warm home. The Churchills raised their children here, and I loved the tasteful decor. As an American I also made sure to check out the passport awarded by JFK to Churchill when he was made an honorary citizen. (His mother was an American, you know!)

Plan to stay around three hours at this site.

It is a must for anyone who cares about modern history.

Windsor Castle is the largest castle still in operation in the world. The Queen of England lives here most weekends, and I understand that she prefers this to Buckingham Palace in London proper, which she considers to function more as an office than a home.

One English friend said, "You want to see a castle? Go to Windsor. That's a castle."

On that advice, we paid the £14.20 per adult ticket and the £8 per child ticket to tour the place. If you live in England, make sure you get your ticket stamped to allow you entry into the castle for a full year. Different parts of the castle open in different seasons. For instance, the Semi-State Rooms were closed in the summer 2007 but are re-opened in the autumn.

So what is the castle like inside? This is certainly a large complex. The architecture reminds me strongly of the Tower of London, which makes sense as the buildings were originally constructed around the same time. Windsor has expanded over the years, but architects have been faithful to the original design.

An audio wand tour that comes with your ticket talks about the history of the castle. In the summer season, you can also join a free guide at certain times of the day. I like live tours, so this is what we did. Our live guide was an Italian, but she obviously loved England. She ushered our group quickly around the outer grounds, pointing out when different buildings had been erected. Apparently Windsor was built with defense in mind. However, it hasn't had to withstand attack often. The most significant sieges were during the reign of John of Magna Carta fame. Later, Elizabeth I spent a good deal of time here because she felt safe within the thick walls.

After the live tour, we stood in line to go into the State Apartments and to see Queen Victoria's dollhouse. A girl at heart, I loved looking at the masterfully crafted miniatures and the small doll outfits on display that were gifts to the current queen and her sister when they were still children.

My husband liked the Great Hall the best. The heraldic shields of many knights are on the ceiling. You'll see some of the shields are "empty." These belonged to knights who brought shame on their families and lost favor with the monarch.

The one thing that I have to go BACK to visit is St. George's Chapel where Henry VIII is buried. Keep in mind, due to religious services, it's closed on Sundays.

How do you get to the castle? Windsor is not difficult to reach by train from London, and the train station is within easy walking distance of the castle. If you are driving a car, you'll see exit signs on the M4. There are a couple of different pay-lots near the castle that you may use.

Castle hours: Opens 9:45am daily with last admission at 4pm.

Hampton Court Palace was built by Henry VIII's most powerful cardinal. When he fell from grace, Henry decided the palace would be a good house for him to own. It shifted into royal hands where it would stay.

Where is the Palace? Though within the M25, Hampton Court Palace is not in the heart of London. King Henry used to take a ride on the River Thames to get to it, which you can also do from Westminster in the summer. Conversely, you can take a 35 minute train ride from Waterloo Station in London. I drove a car from Gatwick airport, and it took me about an hour to make the trip. There is limited, paid parking, but the on-site lot looked like it filled up fast. (We were there as soon as the castle opened.) For the day, parking set me back about £6.

What is there to see? First, this is a Tudor palace, so there is a special draw here for anyone who is fascinated with King Henry VIII. His only legitimate son, Prince Edward, was born at Hampton Court Palace. You can visit the chapel where prayers of mourning were said for Edward's deceased mother, Queen Jane, shortly after the baby's baptism. You can also walk down a corridor that is supposed to be haunted by Henry's fifth wife, Catherine Howard. Legend has it that she left her room to plead for mercy from the king but was dragged away screaming by guards. She was beheaded later at the Tower for adultery. You can also see the Great Hall that was built in honor of another beheaded wife, Anne Boleyn. Here, Henry VIII is in the middle of a giant stained glass window, flanked by the coat of arms of all six of his wives.

But the palace's history does not end in Tudor times! King William and Queen Mary left a big mark on the place as they updated the buildings. They also planned much of the gardens including the famous yew maze, which is certain to be a hit with kids.

Then there came the reign of the Georges. Decorated as they were in 1737, you can see the apartments of King George II and his wife Queen Caroline.

ALL of these places are brought to life by an excellent audio tour that caters to adults and kids that you can take at your own pace.

Special Events: I visited Hampton Court during a half-term holiday in which characters in period dress served as live guides on the grounds. If you can go when activities like this are planned, please do. The events put on by the palace were fantastic. My son even enjoyed the lesson in Latin that was given by the young Prince Edward's "Tudor tutors."

Some Important Details: Entry into the palace is £13 per adult, £6.50 per child. Hours change with the season, so check the palace's website -www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace - before your visit.

We spent an entire day at this one attraction.

London's West End is the equivalent to New York's Broadway. It is a wonderful place to attend a show, so we were thrilled to have tickets to see Wicked in February 2008. An upbeat production with good special effects, this hit musical appeals to a family audience.

Regardless of which show is playing, The Apollo Victoria Theatre is an excellent venue with an Art Deco finish. Seating 2,000 +, it is one of London's largest theatres.

We sat on row "T" in the stalls and had a nice view of the stage. If I had sat in the balcony, I would've wanted to have had seats close to the front.

My son loved the red opera glasses you could hire by putting a 50 Pence coin into a box.

My husband loved the fact that there were lots of concession stands... and you could take refreshments into the theatre to eat/drink during the show. In fact, we bought a bag of popcorn!!! At intermission, theatre employees walked up and down the aisles offereing single-serving tubs of ice cream for £3. (Personally, I opted for a glass of white wine from the bar.)

There were enough facilities to keep even the line for the ladies' room moving quickly.

Another plus for the Apollo is its location next to public transportation. It's right outside Victoria Station, which can be reached via the District or Circle lines. There IS an NCP parking lot at Victoria Station as well, but this is limited. Since it was Saturday morning (no congestion charge to drive into London), we decided to see if there would be a space and lucked out, so parking cost us £12.

Now, there are a few things in life for which you must NEVER be late. The first is a funeral. The second is a play. Plan to arrive early to pick up your tickets. But don't worry. You won't have to sit on the theatre steps.

The Apollo is right by Buckingham Palace if you want to check out the Queen's Gallery. On a nice day, take a stroll through nearby St. James' Park and get a coffee. In twenty minutes, we went as far as Downing Street.

If you don't want to walk anywhere, there are also plenty of places to grab a bite to eat either in Victoria Station or along the street. We stopped in a very simple, exceedingly plain restaurant called Noodle Noodle (tel: 020 7828 8565) that was opposite the theatre because it looked quick and cheap. We had a fried shrimp appetizer to share plus three hearty noodle bowls and (non-alchoholic) drinks for under £30. While not fancy, this suited nicely for lunch before a matinee play. Noodle Noodle is open from noon to 11 PM (www.noodle-noodle.co.uk).

Bottom line? Any experience had at the theatre is going to be driven by the quality of show... but if you're seeing a play at the Apollo, you can at least know you'll be in a comfortable venue.

We were in London on Christmas Eve, 2005, so we needed to find a church in which to give homage to the reason for our holiday celebration. What better place to attend Midnight Mass than Westminster Abbey? This Church of England is steeped in history. This is where ALL English monarchs for hundreds of years have been crowned, including Queen Elizabeth II, so I knew the First Eucharist of Christmas conducted to praise and worship the King of all kings would be moving and memorable. Indeed, it was.

 

How early did we get to the church? We lined up in front of Westminster near the entrance to the church about two hours before the service was scheduled. While the line stretched back beyond where we could see the end in the cold, dark night, I believe we would have been fine if we had come an hour ahead of time. In fact, since architects used to put pews in the shape of a cross in front of the altar, it might have been better if we had been further in the back of the line. Imagine a cross shape. Near the front of the line, we were put in the left of the horizontal bar on the top half of the cross. Thus we could not see a lot of what happened in the vertical bar! We could hear everything, and we had a great view of the minister giving the sermon. We weren't allowed into the church until it was close to the time for the service, so if you can bring a hot cup of coffee to warm your hands, you'll be happier. My son read a book in the light coming from the church while my husband and I wiled away the time by jumping up and down to fight the chill and talking. There is little open around the church, so if you want to get something to eat beforehand, you need to do a little research about where you might go. The city seems to shut down.

Was there a charge to enter the church at this time? No. Of course not. This was a religious service, and all were welcome to worship. A collection was taken up to help in the support of the homeless people of London. But you could pass by the plate if you did not feel moved to give to the less fortunate.

How long was the service? The service ran a little over an hour long.

How do you get back to your home/hotel after the service is over? Well, you can't take the Underground. It closes early on Christmas Eve and does not reopen until Boxing Day. However, if you leave the church and go to your RIGHT, taxis go over the bridge and will stop for you if you hail them. After all, they know people are leaving church services at this time. If you want to avoid the cold---and it WAS cold---reserve a cab to pick you up. You can also drive to the service.

Is Communion distributed? Yes. All who worship Christ are welcome to receive Communion here, and I was impressed with how quickly yet reverantly the church was able to handle the large crowd.

Was this worth doing? I loved the beautiful music and the inspiring message. The choir was lovely, but the man behind me who lifted his tenor voice during "O, Come All Ye Faithful" was equally moving to me. I love traditional Christmas hymns. I would not want to have Christmas without a religious marking of the Savior's birth. If you worship in the Christian faith, this is a wonderful place to celebrate that faith. If you are not a Christian, this might still give you insight into the major religion shared by the majority of the British people. In addition, Westminster Abbey is not only a functioning church, but it is the resting place for many famous figures who have impacted the course of world history. You really will be standing on the shoulders of giants as you walk to take your seat.