Creole Anyone?

Caye Caulker, not a hot bed of activity, has plenty to offer for couples or singles. The best sights are not found on land. The nearby reef provides a glimpse into amazing ocean life. Snorkeling, scuba diving, and sailing trips are offered. You can rent fishing poles or a bike for a tour around the island. Have a pina colada or a coke with the local rum and just laze around on the beach. Watch the nightly basketball game or weekly boxing match. I got a kick out of chatting with people mentioned in the Lonely Planet guidebooks all along my trip. Chocolate and his wife were the highlight. He was the first to start tours to see the manatees and now encourages responsible viewing of these gentle giants.

Quick Tips:

Fresh seafood and lobster are musts. The food is phenomenal here, although a bit pricey. Cheaper alternatives are found on the middle and back streets.

There is no ATM on the island. The only way to get cash is to go to the bank and have them handle the transaction. The exchange of US for BZ never changes. Most larger hotels and restaurants accept debit and credit cards.

Although English is the official language, keep your ears open to try to understand the locals mix of English and Spanish.

If traveling in the rainy season, bring bug repellent, or the mosquitoes will eat you alive.

The locals are quite welcoming, friendly, and willing to offer advice. This can be overwhelming for a single woman. I was offered many private tours to the mainland, all declined. I do not suggest going with a stranger; pay a little more for a reputable organized tour. Most operators work together to consolidate tours, so prices are comparable.

Life on the island is not all palm trees and coconuts for the locals who live on the back streets. Tiny wooden shacks are typical housing. Many families offer food or baked goods for sale.

Best Way To Get Around:

Nothing much more than your own two feet is required. Kayaks and canoes are available to rent.

Arriving on the island without Belizean dollars and with the sun setting, I checked into the first hotel accepting credit cards. This is located on the beach to the right of the landing pier. The room was large, with two double beds, a cable TV, and a ceiling fan. The bathroom and shower were decent, with the ever-present smell of collected rainwater for showers and seawater for the toilets, typical of the island. This hotel is a decent option for budget travelers for BZ$50, which equals US$25.

The Sand Box was the first restaurant named by all tourists I spoke with about great food on the island. It is famous for fresh seafood, decent prices, and sand on the floor. Tempted by the lobster omelette, I went for breakfast one rainy Sunday morning. There are only a few tables, and most were filled with tourists. I managed one between the bar and window. This definitely seemed like the place for locals to be on a lazy morning.

The bar was filled with chatting and joking over coffee or beers, Belikins, of course. The staff meanders around to reggae music, never in a rush but attentive. I chose to try fry-jacks, a fried dough puff, instead of toast. A local explained that you rip them open and pile on beans and plenty of hot sauce, Marie Sharp's, of course. The lobster omelette was an interesting and tasty dish topped with a spicy, light tomato sauce. I returned on another day for lobster fritters and a fresh salad. The menu offers sandwiches and whole dinners. It is a great choice to satisfy your belly.

My first meal on the island happened after the sun had set and without the benefit of a guidebook. Luckily, the first restaurant I came upon was a mellow, outdoor Rastafarian delight. There were a variety of wooden seating choices under the lantern-lit, small palapa; painted picnic tables; slabs; or carved chairs.

Choosing a fruity, local rum drink was easy. Deciding on dinner from the extensive menu of burritos, sandwiches, vegetarian and meat kabobs, seafood, and curry entrées was not. The coconut shrimp curry with saffron rice was a fantastic meld of spicy and sweet. This delicious meal was complemented by the owner and his sons providing an island vibe with live drumming. After dinner, I retired to the bar to sample a One Barrel rum and coke and chat with locals and other travelers. It is highly recommended for a romantic or solo dinner.

Monche's serves up great food from its limited menu at unbeatable prices compared to the beachfront restaurants. Many of the other smaller cafés were closed in the afternoon or did not offer many seafood or veggie choices. Here I found a lobster burrito for BZ$4, which equals US$2. Wrapped in thick flatbread, breaded and lightly fried lobster chunks with shredded cabbage, onions, and carrots were smothered with a thin, spicy bean sauce. It is a somewhat odd combination that combines into one awesome burrito.

As soon as I saw the sign, I knew I could not pass up Rasta Pasta. There is a restaurant by the same name in my hometown and in Breckenridge. I popped in to ask about the owners and was directed to speak with their daughter. I asked where she was from, and before I could tell her where I was from, she said "Colorado!" Obviously I was not the first Coloradoan there.

Returning for a late lunch, most of the plastic tables were empty but since I was traveling alone I chose to take a seat at the bar. The bartender was friendly in explaining about the menu while he mixed up a sweet Panty Ripper of coconut rum, orange juice and grenadine. I pursed the pages of creative recipes deciding between pasta dishes with an island twist, Thai curries and peanut satay with the option to add meat or shrimp. I chose the veggie garbanzo bean red curry ringed around the plate with a yellow curry surrounding rice with a dab of mango chutney sprinkled with raisins for $10US. It was a wonderful blend of flavors and the raisins really made the dish.

The chef, Star, came out to check on how I liked it, and we started chatting. She was curious about the restaurant in my town because she creates most of the recipes. I told her the vibe was similar, friendly people and reggae music but they stick to pasta dishes, nothing like her curry. This a great laid back place to go if you are dining alone and don't want to be or a romantic spot with a table on the sand. Prices range from $8-15US.

E-Z Boy Tours offers trips to Hol-Chan or 3 hours of snorkeling around the island. I opted for the weekend special price of US$17.50 to explore the reef close to Caye Caulker. Luckily, I went on the one morning when the clouds held onto the rain until the end of the trip.

Our laid-back, friendly, and knowledgeable guide, Ian, got down to business once we were loaded on the motorboat. He explained about the first stop, cultivated by locals to attract rays and nurse sharks, and quickly we arrived in shallow water. Immediately the boat was surrounded by large grey bodies. Our eyes grew huge, and several ladies did not want to get in the water. Ian jokingly calmed us, while feeding fish parts to the gentle rays, by saying they haven't lost anyone to a shark yet, but warning not to provoke or bother them. One particular ray seemed to greet Ian and stay on him almost the entire time. Eventually, after the braver souls had proved it safe, I approached to pet the slimy, soft ray.

Wandering off to explore the reef, my eyes were greeted by bright-yellow sunfish darting around purple fans and white coral. There were schools of docile-looking angel fish, largemouth grouper hiding under rocks, electric-blue fish, a green moray eel, and many other special treats you have to find out for yourself. Ian pointed out hidden life on the guided tour of an area of the South Channel.

Then it was onto the third stop for free time around the reef. Watch out for coral that rises above your swimming level, and for the sharp fire coral. Back on the boat, everyone agreed that this was our best view ever while we munched on the fresh pineapple and orange slices. It was such an amazing experience - the true reason to visit Caye Caulker.

As a result of past hurricanes, a bridge was destroyed and the island was split in two. Swimming in this area can be dangerous due to the strong current and concrete underwater. It's best to stay in the swallow water close to the small beach. Fish, crab, and starfish can be found close to shore.