Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park

Mount Desert Island is beautiful. Plain and simple. Trying to describe it beyond that invariably results in minced words and pointless metaphors, because the place is so overwhelmingly, stupefyingly beautiful. Everywhere you turn, there are panoramic views of a lake or a mountain or a patch of woods. All their places would be called "scenic lookouts" and swamped with tourists were they located anywhere else, but the island's surplus of incredible scenery means that many of the most spectacular places are relatively untouched. You can climb for 5 minutes up some half-forgotten trail and find a slice of picture-perfect wilderness that is entirely your own. All of this natural beauty is preserved by the expansive Acadia National Park, which occupies a good chunk of the island. Parts of the park are free, others require an entrance fee of a few dollars. Outside of the park are several small towns, located either on the touristy busy side of the island, or the more subdued "quiet side", as the locals call it. There are a few tourist traps that should be avoided, but for the most part the island is unsoiled and awash in natural beauty.

Quick Tips:

Visit Acadia National Park. Many parts are free, and you can buy a weekly pass for about 5 dollars that gives you access to all the others. The park has something for everyone, from flat, scenic walks to extreme vertical cliff-climbing. Stay on the quiet side of the island, preferably in the little town of South West Harbor. Avoid Bar Harbor if at all possible.

Best Way To Get Around:

A car is always an option, but the island has recently invested in a fleet of natural gas powered buses that travel to all the local towns, as well as most major sights in Acadia National Park. The buses are free, and run at least once an hour. As an added bonus, they are equipped with bike racks on the front and back and cargo compartments that provide ample room for backpacks and climbing gear.

The Claremont Hotel is the best place to stay on Mount Desert Island. It is located within walking distance of Southwest Harbor, a small town on the quiet side of the island. The hotel itself occupies a piece of land on the shores of Sommes Sound and features a large, manicured lawn sloping down to the water, with stupendous views of boats moored on the sound and the islands it separates from the mainland.

At the top of the lawn sits the main hotel, a stately yellow-and-red building dating back to 1884 and featuring attractive rooms and a common lobby. The lobby is full of comfortable chairs and a fireplace where a roaring hardwood fire is maintained whenever it's chilly outside. Tea is served after lunch, and there are plenty of chairs on the hotel's porch overlooking the water. Staying in the hotel is a good option, but for those who can afford them, the Claremont also rents luxurious cottages with hardwood floors, Franklin stoves, kitchens, and fantastic views of the Sound. These cottages are so popular that reservations must be made up to a year in advance.

Once you have settled into your room or cottage, the Claremont offers plenty to do. For starters, there are professional quality clay tennis courts, and the hotel rents rackets for free. There are also two croquet courts on the main lawn where you can play a quick game and enjoy a spectacular view of the water. Farther down the lawn is a path that leads to the Claremont's dock, where it keeps several small rowboats that the guests are free to use. The dock is also an excellent place to fish, though the water is cold enough to discourage all but the most determined swimmers. Rods, oars, and lifejackets are provided free of charge.

The dock has another nice feature, the Claremont's Boathouse Restaurant. Here you can sit a have a light lunch or a quick drink (try the fresh-baked brownies with vanilla ice cream). If you need something more substantial, the Claremont also runs a full-scale restaurant adjacent to the main hotel, which serves tasty but overpriced breakfasts and dinners. If you decide you'd rather venture farther afield, you can take the Mount Desert Island free shuttle service, which stops right at the hotel on the hour.

Overall, the Claremont is an amazing place to stay. It offers a chance to relax in luxurious down-east splendor, take in some beautiful views, and see the whole of Acadia National Park. You'd be hard pressed to find a better place.

The Precipice is not a trail for the faint of heart. Each year, at least one climber plummets over the cliffs, usually to their death. Granted, the person almost always made a stupid mistake (climbed while drunk, went up in inclement weather, wore improper footwear, etc.), but the Percipice is not a trail for the beginning hiker.

The path begins at the loop road, and the first part is a fairly subdued hike through the forest. Once above the tree line, the hike becomes more interesting. The trail curves back and forth along a sheer cliff, and the path is sometimes only a few feet wide. Handholds have been installed over the years, and hikers should make full use of these. At a point about halfway to the summit, the trail reaches a set of ledges and iron rungs affectionately referred to as the "jungle gym." After passing through the jungle gym, the trail continues up the cliffs to the summit.

From here, there is the option of climbing back down the Precipice (don't try this) or taking the Bear Brook trail back to the base of the mountain. Bear Brook has no iron rungs or ladders and is a good option for making your descent. Near the bottom of the mountain, there is a fork in the Bear Brook trail. One side leads to the parking lot, and the other to the loop road. Although the first is more direct, it takes a path through the woods, and most hikers are fairly tired by this point. The better option is to take the shorter trail to the loop road and then walk back to the parking lot that way. If you're lucky, one of the Mount Desert Island shuttles will happen along and you can flag it down and get a free ride back to your car. If you're feeling particularly daring, hitchhike.

Either way you do it, plan at least 3 hours for your hike. Bring plenty of water, especially if it's hot out. Don't take the kids, and leave any inexperienced hikers at home. The Precipice trail is dangerous, but it is rewarding experience for the adventurous, athletic, and somewhat insane.

The Beehive Trail is great for the intermediate hiker. Unlike its big brother, The Precipice, the Beehive Trail is a relatively short trail with only a few technical elements (iron rungs, ladders, etc.). The trail is much wider than that of the Precipice, and the Beehive itself is far smaller than Mount Champlain. However, despite the fact that you travel fewer vertical feet, the Beehive trail begins at a fairly high altitude. This means that it offers panoramic views comparable to those of the Precipice. Although it is tame in comparison, the Beehive Trail should not be underestimated. It is a strenuous hike with many exposed cliffs, and a complacent attitude while hiking it could be very dangerous.

The trail starts at the loop road and almost immediately begins its ascent. From the trailhead, the Beehive's namesake is immediately obvious. The mountain has a rounded shape, and its rock formations give it a honeycombed appearance. The Beehive Trail essentially travels up one side of the hive, crests at the top, and then begins a more leisurely descent down the other side. All the while, the hiker is treated to beautiful views of the ocean and the park below. During the descent, the trail snakes through the woods at the base of the mountain, taking a meandering course that eventually returns the hiker to the trailhead at which the hike began. The Beehive is an excellent option if you're new to semi-technical hiking, only have a short time (round-trip is about 2 hours), don't want to pay the entrance fee to the park (the trailhead is located just before the entrance checkpoint), or want to see beautiful views of Acadia from high above. The Beehive is also a great trail for kids, because its ladders, rungs, and cliffs are very exciting, yet it is not nearly as exhausting or dangerous as the Precipice. Overall, the Beehive is a fun and exhilarating hike that is beautiful, thrilling, and family friendly.

Seal Cove is a relatively unknown place. There aren't any brochures advertising it, and it's not frequented by tourists. You can reach the cove by turning onto the obscure Cape Road, which intersects with Route 102, and following it down to the water. There you will find a wonderfully secluded spot unknown to all but the locals.

The local chamber of commerce has installed several picnic tables in a little grassy park by the water, and there is a small parking lot that is well maintained. Next to the park is a boat ramp frequented by local lobstermen who moor their boats in the deep water of the cove. The ramp is an excellent free place to launch a small vessel, and the dock alongside it extends far enough to be a good spot to fish from. Don't bother bringing worms; there are plenty of mussels clinging to the rocks, which you can break open and bait your hook with. If you have a kayak or a motorboat with a shallow draft, you can follow the cove several hundred yards inland, or you can head for the mouth, which opens into the Atlantic Ocean.

Even if you don't have a boat, Seal Cove is an excellent spot to visit. Because it is outside the bounds of Acadia National park, there is no fire ordinance, and you can easily hold a large cookout on the beach. The picnic tables and trash cans make the experience that much easier, and to top it all off, the cove faces west, providing beautiful sunsets over the water. Seal Cove is a beautiful and secluded spot ideal for families, boaters, or those who want to escape from the crowds of tourists elsewhere on the island.

Unfortunately, Thunder Hole is fairly anticlimactic. Located amongst the rocky cliffs that separate the park from the sea, the hole is reached by driving along the park's loop road for a few miles. According to the brochures, it is one of the great natural wonders of Acadia National Park. As you approach it, the Thunder Hole Gift Shop, Thunder Hole Parking Lots (1 and 2), and the long line of tourists snaking down a stairway out of sight seem to confirm that this is something out of the ordinary.

Supposedly, the incoming waves funnel into the hole (a semi-submerged sea cave), burst through a fissure in the rocks, shoot high into the air, and make a loud and thunderous bang. This is certainly an appealing concept, and with it in mind, you wait in the massive line of tourists, inching along towards the hole. Finally, after at least 20 minutes of standing in the sun, you reach the lookout point above the hole. Off in the distance is a wave. It rolls in closer and closer to the cave, and the crowd holds its collective breath as the wave, large, imposing, and unstoppable, moves closer and closer to the hole, finally striking it with the mighty unyielding force of 10 tons of saltwater, and... there is a subdued "whomp."

I have visited the hole in all weather, during all tide conditions, in summer and winter, and I've yet to hear it thunder. Sure, there's something inherently pretty about a sea cave, and the "whomp" is somewhat satisfying, but if you come to Thunder Hole looking for something exciting or dramatic, you're setting yourself up for a letdown. Rather than waste your time waiting in line to see the hole, consider visiting one of the hundreds of truly breathtaking sights Acadia has to offer.

Otter Cliffs are a series of natural sea cliffs located just off the loop road in Acadia National Park. They are excellent for climbers of all skill levels, with routes ranging in difficulty from 5.5 to 5.12. There is an access trail leading from the loop road to the top of the cliffs, where you can build your own anchor point or use one of several permanently installed ones. Seeing as how the cliffs are within Acadia National Park, there are some regulations in effect. According to the park's website, you can't have more than 12 people in a group, and you can't bring a dog. The website also offers the useful, if somewhat irrelevant, tidbit of advice: "Use the portajohn in the parking lot or urinate in the intertidal area." If you feel comfortable abiding by these stringent standards, hire a guide (Acadia Mountain Guides, climb@acadiamountainguides.com) and head for the cliffs.

Otter Cliffs, which are about 60 feet high, descend to a little ledge just above the water. You begin your climb by rappelling down to this ledge. You then climb back up the cliffs, belayed from above (top roping). Even though the climb is fairly short, the views are spectacular. These are great cliffs for the beginning climber, as they are not too difficult, but astoundingly beautiful and very exciting. The instructors from Acadia Mountain Guides are excellent for beginners and advanced climbers alike, and they can easily teach you all you need to know in less than half an hour. Because all of the routes at Otter Cliffs are close to each other, there is no need to hike a long distance between climbs. This makes the cliffs even better for those with children or only a short time to climb. Overall, the cliffs offer something for everyone. They are in a beautiful spot, have many routes in a small area, and present a good introduction for the beginner climber and a genuine challenge for the veteran.

The bowl is a natural lake located between the summits of the Beehive and Mount Champlain. It is situated on a ridge between the two mountains, at an altitude of about 300 feet above sea level. As a result, the views from the lake are fantastic. The natural beauty of any New England body of water is combined with the views of Sand Beach and the whole of Acadia National Park far below. The result is a wonderful place to visit either as the single destination or as a stopping point in your descent of the Beehive.

There are several ways to access the bowl, depending on what kind of hike you're looking for. If you want to visit the bowl and nothing else, begin as if you were climbing the Beehive. A few hundred feet past the trailhead, the path branches off into two seperate routes, one cresting the mountain and another proceeding directly to the lake. The Bowl route makes a fairly shallow ascent, meandering 1.4 miles through the woods with few obstructions and no technical elements (ladders, rungs, etc.) For those hiking with dogs or small children, this trail offers an excellent way to see the bowl with a minimum of effort. For the more ambitious hiker, the bowl trail also makes a perfect route for descending from the Beehive.

Once at the Beehive summit, simply follow the signs to the lake rather than taking Gorem Mountain Trail. The hike is slightly longer than the normal descent, but the Bowl is well worth the slight detour, and you'll end up at the same place. Once you reach the bowl, you might opt for a swim. The water appears clean and inviting if somewhat muddy, and the lake is fairly deep, with a sounding of 29' near the middle. If you do decide to bring a suit, beware of the leaches. According to the locals, the only way to avoid them is to "swim faster than they do."

If, on the other hand, being devoured by bloodsucking parasites is not your idea of a good time, skip the swim and bring a picnic lunch and a camera. The Bowl is astoundingly beautiful, and there are several nice places to sit and have a bite to eat. Although there's not a whole lot to do beyond that, the Bowl makes a great stopping point or destination for a hike, and its incredible beauty makes it the perfect lunch spot for the tired climber or fearless and insane swimmer. All things considered, it is well worth a visit.

Ships Harbor Nature trail is an easy trail for hikers of all skill levels. It takes only 45 minutes to complete, yet it affords those who hike it unique views that cannot be matched by anything else on the island. The trail begins at a parking lot just off the road to Bass Harbor Light, near Southwest Harbor on the quiet side of the island. There is ample parking for the relatively unknown trail, as well as bathroom facilities provided by the park. The trail begins in the woods, slowly winding its way towards the sea. The hiking is easy, and the trail is more or less flat. In areas with a greater incline, steps have been constructed that are shallow enough for any hiker to climb. This makes the trail an excellent option for those with small children or those with dogs. This section of the trail passes through dense woods, and the feeling of the place is calm and secluded.


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As the trail gets closer to the ocean, it begins to slowly ascend. All of a sudden, the hiker is presented with a view of a dramatic pink granite rockfall leading to the sea below. Waves crash on the shore, and little tidal pools speckle the exposed rocks.





This is an excellent place to wander around, and there are plenty of good places for bouldering. Although the rock fall is very dramatic, the stones themselves are fairly small, and most people can walk around the falls with little difficulty. The tidal pools are interesting to look at, though the rocks around them can be slippery. From here, the trail reenters the woods, where is slowly meanders its way towards the trailhead, eventually merging with the original trail and returning you to your starting point.





Because of its circular configuration, gentle inclines, and beautiful views, Ships Harbor is the perfect hike for anyone staying on the quiet side.

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Seal Cove Pond is a body of fresh water located near Seal Cove in the town of Tremont on Mount Desert Island. The pond is separated from the saltwater cove by Route 102, some trees, and little else. Seal Cove pond is big, and the name is somewhat misleading. While ponds generally conjure up images of a small basin of water in someone's backyard, surrounded with landscaping and perhaps containing some Koi, Seal Cove Pond is markedly different. It is several miles long, about 30 feet deep, and contains several species of gamefish, including bass and brown trout. The pond is really more of a lake, but its name and location make it unknown to most tourists and even many locals living on the busy side of the island.

Located on the quiet side of the island, the pond is hidden on one side by fields and ancient evergreen trees, and on the other by Western Mountain. There are two boat ramps on the pond. One is located on Route 102, about a mile past the Cape Road intersection. The other is located off of Seal Cove Road, an unpaved backcountry route which cuts across the island from Southwest Harbor to Tremont. Because Seal Cove Pond is all but unknown, and both ramps are in a state of disrepair. The Route 102 ramp is located in a shallow-water marsh, and the Seal Cove Road ramp is steep and rocky. Because of the poor quality of the ramps, and a prohibiton on engines over 10hp, only those with electric motors who are intent on fishing should try to access the pond in a full sized boat.

Luckily for the rest of us, there is another option. Kayaks are a perfect way to see Seal Cove Pond. They don't have motors, so the 10hp ban is irrelevant, marsh grass isn't a problem so you can use the convienent Route 102 ramp, and the shallow sections of the pond won't trouble you at all. In addition, Western Mountain makes a perfect windbreak so paddling is easy, and there are several spots around the pond which make excellent destinations for kayakers of any skill level. If you already have kayaks, put in at the 102 ramp, and work your way through the marsh to the open water. If you don't own kayaks, there are several places on the island to rent them, with National Park Kayak Rentals offering the best location.

Once you're out on the pond, aim for one of the large rocks along its Eastern shore. These make for great places to sunbathe or swim, and the water around them tends to be clear and deep. If you're up for a longer trip and some illegal trespassing, there is a lovely island in the middle of the pond. It makes a great place to have a picnic, though the owner is not too keen on those who leave trash behind. Even if you don't make it to the island, the pond itself is beautiful, and there are plenty of other spots to choose from. Bringing a picnic lunch or your fishing rods (remember to buy a fishing license) makes the experience even more fun. Once you're done paddling around, simply return to the marshes and find the ramp.

Seal Cove Pond is the perfect place for a daying of boating, and kayaks are the best way to access it. The poor quality of the access points and the location of the pond deter many visitors, but if you make it past these downfalls, you'll have one of the most perfect and most beautiful spots on the entire island all to yourself.