Tofino - The End of the Hippy Trail

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This is a wonderful, self-contained condo with all the necessities of life: cable TV, fully equipped kitchen (dishwater, crab pot, coffeemaker, and microwave), and bathroom. It is right on the harbour, with great sunsets, and right in the village. There is a fireplace for those cold nights and a deck for those warm evenings. It's just like home, without needing to clean up when you leave. The building also has one-bedroom lofts available.

• Campground Type: Private
• Campsite Type: Camper/Trailer
• Price Range: $30 - $40
• Cleanliness: Very Good
• Campground Facilities: Satisfactory
• Recreational Facilities: Satisfactory
• Campsite Satisfaction: Satisfactory
• Family Friendliness: Satisfactory
• Service: Satisfactory

Don't expect you mamma's Taco Bell. One day I had authentic fish tacos. The story goes that fish tacos were food for poor fishermen. They are made with sardines and sit in lots of oil. It was absolutely lovely. He makes his own churros (spicy sausage) and can sometimes take requests. ,P> There is alfresco dining, of course.

Food is in the style of "West Coast tapas," small plates by another name emphasizing local ingredients, with a homey, organic, good-for you (but not too good) twist. Memorable dishes include the oysters and halibut, which resembled, in flavour and texture, a large scallop!

The room sits out on a rocky promenade overlooking a stunning view of large waves crashing onto the rocks below.

Food is of the multi-heritage order. It is a little dated, brining one back to the '90s, but generally executed well, especially with the seafood choices.

Winter waves are larger, but decent waves can be found in the summer. There are numerous beaches where the waves strike, so one doesn't run across the problems of crowded waves, like in the south. The water is clear and the sand very fine, making Tofino a major mecca for surfing enthusiasts.

We were able to catch a pod of killer whales, grey whales, and humpback whales. We also saw sea otters (aww, so cute), a shark!, bald eagles, and seals (run, seal, run, from the orcas!).

Arriving at the hot springs island, it was a comfortable boardwalk walk in the rain forest to a natural hot springs. Stripping down, we lounged in various hot pools of water, or even under the hot waterfalls.

If surfing, biking, and kayaking isn't enough to keep you pumped this is the only alternative if your hotel doesn't have a gym. It has adequate Cardio equipment, Olympic Weights and free weights. Most important for hard-core weightlifters, there is a cage with a bench press and cross cable machine. There isn't a Smith Machine.

Found in a trailer on the corner of Industrial Way Rd. and the main highway, open Monday-Thursday 8am-9pm, Friday 8am-7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am-6pm. Usually during the day there isn't anyone present to take your money. Pop by next door to the mechanic and the owner also runs the gym. There usually is an attendant for the after work crowd.

Drop-in costs $7.50 per day. Specials for week/month. Phone (250)725-2977. In June 2005, the showers were not ready.

We opted for an easy paddle in the harbour. Among the various nearby islands, some guided paddles take you to Meares Island, where you can beach and walk among the old-grown rain forest on an elevated boardwalk. Be awestruck among the enormous trees.

While paddling in Clayquot Sound, you might come across curious seals taking a peek at you!

Steer clear of the various crab-selling places right in town. They charge the big-city price of $7 per pound. Go direct to the locals, either Max's crabs (find it in the phonebook), the first government pier before you come into the town (turn off at the Bruhwiler Surf), or a house on the highway as you approach town. This house will have a sign hanging by the highway. It will cost $10 for a 2- to 3-pound crab.

Each 2- to 3-pound crab is good for one person. Get some butter from the local co-op. Use your large crab pot in you condo and put a little water on the bottom. You can either kill the crabs first (ew) or do the barbaric thing a place them in the pot while still alive. I had to take a shower in the next room to avoid hearing the struggle of the crabs as they were steamed alive.

If you are able to stomach it, in 12 to 15 minutes, you have very tasty crab ready to be eaten.