Hidden Venice

The main tourist sights of Piazza San Marco are obvious, yet still superb - arrive early in the morning or just before closing time. The most enjoyment comes from the smaller churches and their fabulous artwork, as well as the Scuole, wealthy Venetian guilds who invested in fine pieces by Tintoretto, Carpaccio, and others. Take time to savour them by spending hours in small cafés in the various squares of the city. This is not a place to rush around manically!

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Arrive by water. The Alilaguna service costs 10€ and takes an hour to weave its way through the lagoon. Once in the city, buy a vaporetto pass and take time to go up and down the Grand Canal, by day and by night. Don't forget that Venice is small and everything is within easy walking distance. The fun is in getting lost and wandering into seemingly untouched squares and empty churches. A gondola ride is expensive and unnecessary - far better are the 1€ traghetti, which cross the Grand Canal and are used by real Venetians. Water taxis are the most costly form of transport and have an air of exclusivity about them.

The Rialto is not only one of Venice's most famous sights - a bridge spanning the Grand Canal - but every morning, home to a market. This is worth getting up for, with freshly caught and unidentifiable fish, along with fabulous fruits and cheeses. Even if you don't buy, take time to wander through the stalls.

This is one of my favourite churches in Venice, with a fabulous altarpiece of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The choir stalls are incredible, and the relics fascinating. It may not look as grand on the outside as other Venice churches (although it is impressive), but it is well worth a visit.