Greece-Following in Aristotle's Footsteps

As we boarded the flight from Munich to Athens, we wondered what it was like for the ancient Greeks as they embarked on their long journeys to influence the world. Did they think what it was going to be like 3000 years into the future? And, did they wonder what the thoughts were of two American adventurers just about to leap into a 'trip of a lifetime?' Our trip to modern Greece enlightened us, widened our horizons and genuinely expanded our appreciation for the marvels of the world. It helped make Greek Mythology come to life with names like Apollo, Zeus, Aristotle, and Hermes. We drove from Athens, through Corinth, Mycenae, Nafplion, Leonidion, Epidaurus, Mistras, Sparta and Olympia; then by ferry to Delphi and back to Athens.

Quick Tips:

Don’t get caught on the bus without a bus ticket. (Trust me on this one)

Try all the different Greek food that is availability. My favorite was moussaka and the 'Greek Salads' are wonderful. Most restaurants don’t start serving dinner until 8:00 p.m.

Attend the production of the 'Story of the Acropolis' which is presented at night on the hill opposite from the Acropolis. A very distinguished British voice narrates, while beautiful classical music is played and the different buildings that make up the Acropolis are highlighted in different colored lights.

Best Way To Get Around:

In Athens, it is very difficult to drive because of the traffic and the small roads. The bus and walking is your best bet. You must buy tickets for the bus before boarding (usually at small kiosks on the street). It is somewhat of an 'honor system', but if you get caught without a ticket, there is a fine. For traveling the Penolaneese, a car is a must and gives you the opportunity to be a 'wanderer.'

After three days in Athens, we rented a small car and set out on a driving tour that would take us around the Peloponnese (the lowed peninsula of Greece). First stop was Corinth. The ancient city of Corinth was situated immediately adjacent to the modern city with not much distinction being evident. The cultural and architectural flavor did not appear to have changed much since the biblical descriptions of the region. As we neared the ancient ruins, the culture background of Greece began to unfold before us.

In 146BC, the Roman Army destroyed Corinth. Julius Caesar rebuilt the city about 44 BC and afterward became the capital of the Roman Province of Achaea. In 1857, the city was completely destroyed by an earthquake.

We viewed the Corinth Canal (Corinth Isumas) connecting central Greece with the Peloponnese, and the Aegean and Adriatic Seas, built between 1881 and 1893. Parallel to the canal are ruins of the ancient Isthmian Wall, which was restored in the 3rd. century A.D. by Byzantine emperors to defend the Peloponnese. Near the eastern end of the wall are ruins of the sanctuary of Poseidon.

Since 1896, numerous archeological discoveries have been made among the ruins of Corinth, including Greek and Roman sculptures and remnants of some of the principal Greek and Roman buildings, including the Greek Temple of Apollo and a Roman Amphitheater. We walked around the area nearest the Temple of Apollo, which was approximately the size of two football fields. It was absolutely incredible—it looked like a 'graveyard' of huge stones, most of which had carvings or writing on them. Some were parts of statues, columns, and doorways. There was no security, and I marveled that some of these artifacts were still there. What was probably more incredible for me was that all of this was located in an old residential area, where life was going on as if this wondrous piece of history was not even there.

The drive took us mainly along the shoreline of the Aegean Sea, but at times led us into mountainous area. One of our overnight stops was in Leonidion, a beautiful, quaint mountain village with one very narrow main street. Every house in Leonidion had a red roof. We stayed at a small Pension (approximately 6 rooms on the upper floor) with a restaurant on the ground floor. The rooms were incredible; almost everything was made of marble, the floors, walls, counters, etc. Each room had its own bathroom. After settling in, we went downstairs to the restaurant for dinner. However, the menu was entirely in Greek (of course) and the proprietor did not speak any English. He invited us into the kitchen, where he uncovered each pot of food that had been prepared so that we would choose what we wanted by simply pointing. The service was excellent and the food delicious.

Main source of commerce appeared to be the orange and lemon industry. The town’s demeanor was one of a prosperous community and its people were warm and friendly.

After leaving Leonidion, we drove through very rugged mountains. While twisting and turning upward to the summit, we came across something you usually just read about—not actually encounter-- a monastery tightly snuggled into a mountainside of rock. But this time it wasn’t just an ancient relic, but truly an active one, occupied by nuns. We were allowed to tour the Elonis Monastery. It’s hard to comprehend the devotion these religious individuals possess that keeps them living in such a confined place.

Walking through the ruins at Olympia and the first Olympic stadium where the athletes of antiquity performed, was an exhilarating experience. With a little imagination, we could envision what it may have looked like 3000 years ago. It was so amazing to see stones, which were once part of great majestic structures and parts of statues laying on the ground and deteriorating.

The original stadium and its entrance are still quite visible. We could almost visualize the parade of athletes marching through the small entrance with spectators sitting on the grassy inclines on either side of the arena. While we were there, there was a young family also visiting and the father and his two sons were having a foot race- somewhat symbolic of the atmosphere that once prevailed.

While the stadium remained obvious, many of the other structures that comprised Olympia no longer were recognizable but only mere outlines of their original grandeur. There are ongoing efforts to complete the restoration of this site, but it is a very slow process and there is a substantial lack of funding. There are however, dedicated enthusiasts who are trying to rebuild the ruins, one stone at a time.

The Temple of Zeus at Olympia was considered as the benchmark of temple building, due to its style and the high quality of its workmanship. It was completed by 456 BC. and was the largest temple in the Peloponnese

We arrived at Mistras in the rain, and there was no hope of good weather that day, so we rearranged our scheduled and decided to stay another day. We had no trouble finding overnight accommodations or restaurants.

The castle of Mistras was built by the Franks in 1249 in their attempt to establish supremacy over the Peloponnese. Their defeat in 1259 forced them to hand over Mistras to the Greeks. The Frankish prince Guillaume de Villehardouin erected the castle. He built bastions for his knights, houses, dungeons, storerooms, and Courtyards. As time went by, houses were built on the hillside under the Frankish castle and a town was born.

As we walked around this massive settlement, the different structures told us a story as to what they were used for, and we almost could envision the evolution of the architecture that took place over time.

Nafplion (Nauplia) a resort town in the Gulf of Argolis is surrounded by beautiful beaches and is a three-hour drive from Athens. Nafplion is an important seaport and commercial center shipping tobacco, cotton and fruits. Our primary destination was the Fortress of Palamidhi. It was over 900 steps (upward) from the entrance to the first of many layers of this complex that crowns the bald hill. Just when you reach one plateau and you think you have reached the 'top', you realize there is more above you. We spent several hours walking around the fortress, climbing and climbing, then sitting on rock walls admiring the magnificent view of the harbor below. Our next stop was the ancient city of Mycenae. The most significant remaining structures are the “Lion’s Gate” and a beehive shaped tomb. The Lion’s Gate is a detailed stone carving, depicting two lions standing on their back legs facing each other, the back legs on the ground and the front legs on an alter. This carving is the top portion of an entrance “gate” and dates to 1400 BC.

Once Delphi was called 'the Navel of the Earth.' Delphi was the greatest Oracle of the ancient world, where people flocked to seek advice. Now, it is one of the grandest sights in Greece. Our first task upon arriving in Delphi was to find accommodations. This had been relatively easy during our drive of the Peloponnese, but in Delphi it was a little more difficult. We finally found a small Pension that provided 'basic needs' only. But, we remembered- this WAS an adventure!

That evening we walked around, exploring the nightlife of Delphi. The next day, we toured the Theater, the Stadium and the Sanctuary of Athena, all within a very short driving distance of Delphi. After lunch on the hillside of Mount Parnassus, we drove back to where our adventure started- Athens.