The Basilica of St. Francis is an interesting building--an upper basilica built about a lower basilica built above a crypt. Entering in through the front of the upper basilica allows for an exploration that takes you from the new to the old. Plus it offers a view of a beautiful garden in front and, of course, a staggering view of the Umbrian countryside.
The upper basilica, an open Gothic church, offers a series of large frescoes (maybe by Giotto--scholars are still debating that one) that narrates St. Francis's story. Because the narration takes place in Assisi, many of the settings will look fairly familiar. Some of the frescoes show cracks and damage that resulted from a violent 1997 earth
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The Basilica of St. Francis is an interesting building--an upper basilica built about a lower basilica built above a crypt. Entering in through the front of the upper basilica allows for an exploration that takes you from the new to the old. Plus it offers a view of a beautiful garden in front and, of course, a staggering view of the Umbrian countryside.
The upper basilica, an open Gothic church, offers a series of large frescoes (maybe by Giotto--scholars are still debating that one) that narrates St. Francis's story. Because the narration takes place in Assisi, many of the settings will look fairly familiar. Some of the frescoes show cracks and damage that resulted from a violent 1997 earthquake. Given the basilica's size and its seemingly precarious perch on the edge of the hill, it's astounding that the damage wasn't more substantial. But, despite the natural disaster, the frescoes (and the basilica as a whole) remain in good shape.
Descending down in to the lower basilica leads you in to an entirely different environment. The two are perfect opposites: whereas the upper basilica is long and open, the lower is wide and squat. You can again find an abundance of frescoes by Martini, Giotto, and Lorenzetti. The ceiling above the altar bares a series of paintings that I particularly like presenting allegories of the Franciscan vows. My personal favorite represents Francis's vow of poverty. In it, angels watch as Christ presides over the marriage of Francis to a woman in a tattered dress standing in thorns. The allegory is not overly complex, but it perfectly exemplifies the simplicity and joy with which Francis accepted his calling.
The final, lowest level of the basilica is the plainest, but also the most emotionally striking. At the end of a cool, primarily candlelit stone hall is a small collection of kneelers. These kneelers face a section of earth that was not removed when the crypt was constructed. Instead, the ground was left in place, along with what it contained--the bodies of St. Francis and several of his close friends. This section of the basilica is the quietest and the most peaceful. Almost instinctively, visitors lower their voices to a whisper and keep words to a minimum. Even for those who don't necessarily agree with Francis's religious convictions, the meditative atmosphere that his tomb inspires is inarguable.
The basilicas themselves are worth a visit because of the artwork that is present there, but the real reason to visit is Francis himself, and it is impossible to deny the powerful feelings that are felt when standing within 10 feet of the man himself.
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