Split Journals

Split: Fascinating Gateway to Croatia’s Islands

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A March 2005 trip to Split by Owen Lipsett

Split Seen From The Marjan Photo, Split, Croatia More Photos
Quote: Croatia’s second city and the gateway to the myriad delights of the Dalmatian Coast (and its innumerable islands), Split grew out of the world’s classiest squat – the palace to which the Roman Emperor Diocletian retired in the early 4th century. I certainly can’t fault his choice!

Split: Fascinating Gateway to Croatia’s Islands

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Overview

Split Seen From The Marjan Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
One of the world’s most unique settlements, Split is actually predated by its suburb, Solin, the former Roman city of Salona. One of its inhabitants, Diocletian, rose to become Roman emperor (284-305). Pioneering the concept of retirement, he had a palace built for himself on the coast nearby, where he spent the final seven years of his life. The subsequent disintegration of the empire meant that mere local warlords succeeded him as its inhabitants until the sixth century when it fell into disuse. When Slavic raiders sacked Salona in 614, the terrified inhabitants turned the palace into a refugee camp of sorts, fortifying it into a citadel before accepting Byzantine sovereignty in return for aut...Read More

Split Centre Apartments

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Hotel | "Apartment in Split Centre"

Split Centre Apartments Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
In all my travels, I can say with certainty that this apartment is the nicest place I have ever stayed (and that’s a list that includes several luxury hotels.) Granted, it was also the most expensive place I stayed on my journey through Croatia and Slovenia, but in all honesty, even if the off-season price I paid was doubled, it would still be quite an exceptional bargain. The service provided by Jugana Perić (the extraordinarily kind and knowledgeable recent college graduate who rents out the apartment together with her elder sister Adriana) is a great part of its charm, as is the decor inspired by their mother’s native Colombia. But it’s the comfortable surroundings, little touches (I’v...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 25, 2005

Split Centre Apartments
Luciceva 13
Split, Croatia
+385-98-331-475

Marjan Peninsula

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Attraction

Marjan Peninsula Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
An area of incredible natural beauty and historical significance, the leafy Marjan Peninsula provides a welcome counterpoint to the gray and somewhat rundown feeling that pervades much of Split. Consequently, its numerous trails are extremely popular among Splićani, providing both challenging climbs and outstanding views of Split and its vicinity. It’s also home to a museum devoted to the work of the modernist sculptor Ivan Meštrović, as well as the nearby Kaštelet (currently closed), which displays a cycle of his religious works. The Marjan’s most challenging trail begins at its eastern edge (itself a tough uphill walk from the Old Town along Senjska). There’s a small café to catch yo...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 25, 2005

Marjan Peninsula
West of the Old Town
Split, Croatia

Palace of Diocletian

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Attraction

Palace of Diocletian Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
The world’s classiest squat is a fittingly ironic tribute to Diocletian (245-312), a native of nearby Salona and the son of slaves who rose to become Roman emperor from 284-305. Having consequently few options, his sought his fortune in the Roman army and rose rapidly, particularly as it was engaged in numerous border wars in the Danubian region. Like many other Emperors in the so-called period of "Military Anarchy" which he successfully put an end to, Diocletian’s rule was proclaimed by his legions, after the two sons of the Emperor Carus died in swift succession in 284-285. Through various reforms, Diocletian consolidated the Emperor’s power but then divided the role between himself and three other ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 25, 2005

Palace of Diocletian
Old Town Split
Split, Croatia

Trogir

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Attraction

Trogir Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
Although only a small channel separates it from the mainland, Trogir’s architecture and ambience more closely resemble those of Croatia’s offshore islands than the mainland. Redolent with Venetian influence and almost entirely pedestrianized, its Old Town is perfectly self-contained on a small island connected to the mainland by one bridge and the much larger (and less interesting) island of Čiovo by another. Conveniently, both the bus station from which the half-hourly #37 (taking 30-45 minutes) runs to Split and the town’s market flank the mainland side of the bridge. Sedate, quiet, and understated, Trogir is a perfect counterpoint to Split. Indeed, it’s amazing that only Kaštela, the collecti...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 25, 2005

Trogir
Trogir (town 20 km west of Split)
Split, Croatia

About the Writer

Owen Lipsett

Owen Lipsett
New York, New York