Winter Holiday in Malta

Every year, I like to go someplace for a few days to celebrate my birthday, and I often head to a spot in Western Europe. This year, though, I wanted to do something a bit different. My criteria? Someplace I’d never been before, someplace I could spend only a week yet still feel like I’d gotten a good flavor of the place, and someplace warmer than Chicago in winter (okay, the last part is admittedly pretty easy!). I also wanted a place where there was culture in the form of museums, historic sites, and the like, and a place where I’d feel comfortable going "solo". After research, research, and more research, I decided to visit Malta, as it seemed to meet my criteria.

The more I read and researched, the more fascinated I became by this tiny little diamond-in-the-rough country in the Mediterranean, lying 90 miles south of Sicily and some 200 miles north of North Africa. I became captivated by the "Maltese trivia" I discovered, for example: did you know that in this tiny country, there are 365 churches, one for each day of the year? Or that Malti, the native language, is the only Semitic language that utilizes Latin letters? Or how about the local soft drink, Kinnie, a flavorful blend of bitter oranges and herbs, which to my palate is best over ice, with a slice of lemon?

As I began to explore the island, the prehistoric temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra awed me, more so due to the lack of crowds. Here were some of the oldest ruins on earth, and I could walk around them, touch them, photograph them... all without a single soul nearby.

Quick Tips:

Because Malta is not, at least yet, a popular destination for travelers from the United States, it may take a bit of work and research to put a trip together. Your first challenge may be finding a guidebook. Though I looked in several local bookstores, I eventually had to order mine online, and there wasn’t a huge choice. Lonely Planet’s "Malta & Gozo" is a good pick, unless you decide to wait until you actually get to Malta, then you’ll have a plethora of choices.

Your next challenge is getting there. There are no direct flights to Malta from the United States--you must first fly to Europe, then take at least one more flight to reach Malta. The best connections I've found seem to be via London and Frankfurt. Air Malta does daily flights from London year-round, and Lufthansa does daily flights from Frankfurt.

To find out what's on in Malta when you visit, the Maltese tourism website is a great source of information: check it out at www.visitmalta.com. You can search for hotels, restaurants, events, countryside walks, and more.

Best Way To Get Around:

I had fleetingly contemplated renting a car on Malta but never got around to it. Just as well, as when I got there, I decided Malta is a place I'd not have wanted to drive. The blind corners, narrow streets, and rough roads would be more challenging then I'd want to attempt. The Maltese buses are a cheap and entertaining way to get to most of the major tourist attractions. Cabs are also reasonably plentiful, but be warned: none of the taxis have meters. So you must negotiate every ride. Don't even get in the taxi before you've set the price.

The Marina Hotel is ideally situated on the Tigne Seafront, directly across the road from the ferries that traverse the harbor to Valetta and just down the road from the main bus stop in Sliema. Sea-view rooms with private balconies can be had for a few extra lira and are well worth the price. My airy upper-floor room was furnished with two twin beds (pushed together for a full bed), desk and chair, bedside tables, two large wardrobes, personal safe, and a minibar. The bathroom had a tub/shower combination, and was spacious and sparkling clean. The compact balcony had two chairs and a small table: even in late February it was mild enough to sit outside and enjoy the warmth of the Mediterranean sun. The simple decor was modern with bright colors and light woods: the bright oranges, yellows and deep blues in the drapes and bedspreads echo the hues of the sun and sea. Seaview rooms are a bit extra, but it was well worth it, and even with this small "extra", my room was about $50 U.S.

The hotel offers several venues for eating and drinking. Hotel guests are given the option of bed-and-breakfast, half-board or full board. Meals are served in the rooftop restaurant, which features a complimentary continental breakfast bar of juices, toast, rolls, tea, coffee, fruits and cold meats. Cooked breakfasts can be ordered for an additional charge: my favorite was the traditional English breakfast with eggs, sausages, bacon, beans, and grilled tomato. Guests opting to dine at the hotel can select from the table d’hote menu. If possible, try to get a seat near the windows for a marvelous view of the sea. For snacks and lighter fare, the Caffe Bottega on the ground floor is open 10am to midnight. The rooftop bar, next to the restaurant, became a favorite spot of mine to meet and mingle with other hotel guests.

If you need taxi service, directions, need your laundry done, or want assistance in arranging a day tour to Gozo, the reception desk at the hotel should be your first stop. The hard-working and helpful staff will find you a taxi, give directions, help with bus schedules, assist with tour arrangement, and in general do everything they can to make your stay pleasant and comfortable. I enjoyed my stay so much, I’ve already booked my return visit!

Email: joeabdilla@themarinahotelsliema.com or check out the hotel on the web at
www.themarinahotelsliema.com

I found this place completely by accident: the ground level lift is located next to an outdoor cash machine, though the restaurant itself is on the 8th floor of a multi-story shopping and office complex. This brightly lit spot offers a good selection of Cantonese fare, including dim sum items, several duck dishes, several types of fried rice, and more. An assortment of noodle dishes, including Singapore Noodles, and a few curries round out the menu. I opted for a starter of spring rolls, followed by an entree of prawns with green pepper and black bean sauce. The spring rolls arrived piping hot, the texture crispy, just the way I like, and filled with shredded carrots, mushrooms, and assorted Chinese vegetables. The entree contained a generous amount of large, tender prawns, chunks of green pepper, onion, carrot, red pepper, mushrooms and fresh ginger. I had opted for egg fried rice rather than plain white rice, and this was essentially scrambled egg mixed with white rice: pleasant, but not quite what I am used to as far as fried rice goes. A couple of Cisk beers (a local brew) accompanied my meal and replenished my energy after the trip from London.

The decor is a rather odd mix of quasi-Danish modern light wood tables and chairs and Chinese artwork on the walls. Combine that with some unusual Chinese pop muzak (played at a fairly unobtrusive level) and you’re a bit uncertain just what effect is being tried for. That aside, this place has a large outdoor terrace with a lovely harbor view. Though the February evening temperatures precluded outdoor dining, I nonetheless could imagine how pleasant it would be in summer. Service was unintrusive and sometimes just shy of neglectful, though I attributed this to the fact that there was basically just one waiter at a busy time. From other parts of the island, take any bus to the Sliema seafront, and then walk about 3 minutes.

This is a small place, just down from the Marina Hotel along the seafront. I noticed it one day while exploring the area and decided to give it a try for dinner one evening. A red tile floor and light stone walls offset dark wood tables and chairs. Dark wood beams accentuate the rather low ceiling, creating an intimate atmosphere. Plants hang in ceramic pots from the ceiling and photographs of Malta’s natural beauty add a decorative touch. Tables are graced with blue and white linens.

There are several set menu options for well under 5 Maltese Lira (about $15 U.S.). On a given day, specials may include spaghetti with rabbit sauce, homemade fettuccini, chicken breast with ham and mozzarella, or fresh swordfish. I opted to order a la carte, selecting mushrooms in garlic and white wine for a starter, followed by grilled prawns. While you wait for your meal, you won’t go hungry: a plate of bruschetta, Maltese-style, and a dish of giant white beans are brought for you to munch. My appetizer of mushrooms was a generous portion, and freshly ground pepper added just the perfect touch. The prawns were grilled to perfection and the starter and entree were nicely accompanied by a glass of the house red wine. Service is pleasant and fairly efficient.

From other parts of the island, take any bus to the Sliema seafront, and then walk to just past the Marina Hotel and the church.

This restaurant on the Sliema seafront has a wonderful ambience. Rims colored in crayon-bright colors of yellow, blue, orange and red offset small round tables in light wood. The cushions on the chairs carry through these brilliant hues. A tall red pillar candle burns at each table and adds a touch of soft light. The walls and floor are stone; the low ceiling of dark wood beams adds to the cozy atmosphere. The wall decor is a colorful assortment of plaques and advertisements for beers and ales. Music (mostly New Age) is pleasant and at a level which allows dinner conversation at a normal level.

For a starter, I opted for bruschetta, and chose penne cartocchio as an entree. I enjoyed the bruschetta, which was two pieces of toasted bread with fresh-chopped tomatoes, olive oil, and fresh grated pepper. The pasta, though, was phenomenal. The dish is a mouthwatering combination of bacon, mushrooms, ham, garlic, and sweet peppers in a tomato cream sauce, topped with melted mozzarella. After this marvelous repast, I had not intended to have dessert, but then decided I couldn’t pass up the chocolate and orange mousse. A couple of glasses of red wine with dinner and a cappuccino with dessert put this at my most expensive (and best) meal in Malta at about 12 Maltese Lira (about $36 U.S.). But with the outstanding food, polite and efficient service, and cozy ambience, this is a great "splurge" choice on your Maltese holiday.

Marsaxlokk, southeast of Valletta, is a traditional fishing village popular with tourists for its picturesque charm. Vibrantly painted luzzu (fishing boats) provide colorful photo opportunities, with their traditional blue, red and yellow colors and the vigilant "Eyes of Osiris" on their bows. These painted eyes are believed by locals to be protection from the "evil eye". As you stroll along the seafront, you can watch the local fisherman mending their nets or working on their boats. There is a daily market along the waterfront, whose wares are aimed mainly at tourists. On Sundays, check out the Fish Market, where you can find swordfish, tuna and lampuki. There are several food kiosks and cafes by the seafront where you can relax and enjoy the sights and sounds of this peaceful village.

After wandering the seafront, I stopped in The Local, which sits on the road along the sea. Not surprisingly, fish is a staple on the menu here, but there are also Italian and traditional Maltese dishes. I decided to try mizet, a cold plate of Maltese specialties. My favorite of these was the bread, spread with tomato paste and olive oil and topped with sliced olives and chopped onion. There were several types of Maltese sausages and cheeses, olives, tomatoes, greens and a small helping of bean pate and Maltese crackers. The bean pate was my least favorite of the lot, but nonetheless I enjoyed my first taste of traditional Maltese fare. The Local/Xlukkajr Restaurant, Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk; phone +356 21 652 109.

By bus, it’s just a bit over 30 minutes from Valletta: take bus 27, which operates about every half hour between 6:30am and 7:30pm.

These temple sites lie near Malta’s south coast and are deemed among the best preserved of the sites found in the islands. To reach them, take either bus 38 or 138 from Valletta. The bus ride is about 30 minutes, and when you get off, you’ll think you’ve been left in the middle of nowhere. Follow the small sign pointing to the temples and walk through the parking lot to the ticket booth. You can purchase a ticket for either one or both temples: I suggest doing both, as they are situated close together. If you’re hungry after perusing the ruins, the Ħaġar Qim restaurant just above the parking lot is a peaceful place for a snack or meal. I enjoyed a much-needed cold drink on the outdoor terrace after my explorations.

Though the ticket booth has no free pamphlets to describe the temple sites, they do offer for sale a small booklet, "The Copper Age Temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra", with plans and illustrations by Professor Themistocles Zammit, one of the investigators of the site in the 1920s. In spite of some obvious inaccuracies I noted (for example, the temples lie on the south coast, not the west as the booklet states), the illustrations and information contained offer additional insight over what is found in the average guidebook.

The excavations at Ħaġar Qim were begun in the late 1830s, though the temple complex as seen today was not completely excavated until 1909-1910. At this time the surrounding area was explored as well, and the resulting finds of flint tools, stone and clay items and the like can be seen in the Valletta Museum. Further surveying and restoration took place: this was completed in the 1950s. Ħaġar Qim consists of three separate temples, the central being the best preserved of the three.

From Ħaġar Qim, follow the path about a quarter mile or so to Mnajdra, spectacularly set on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea. Mnajdra also consists of the temples, the oldest of which is on the right and is aligned with the small islet of Filfla. Excavations began here in 1840, though the findings were haphazardly recorded. One of the unusual aspects of the central temple is its entrance, which is through a large window stone.

Although the original purpose of the two temple sites has not been determined, it appears that they were used for animal sacrifices and ritual oracles.

The sites are open 7:45am to 2pm daily from mid-June to the end of September; from October through mid-June, they are open 8:15am to 5pm Monday-Saturday and 8:15am to 4pm on Sundays. Closed public holidays.

Unless you want to rent a car or hire a private guide and driver, you can plan on spending at least part of your time riding the bright-yellow Maltese buses. While the fleet appears to be undergoing modernization, there are still a number of the more ancient buses left, and a journey in one is something you should experience. When you board the bus, give the driver your fare (and yes, the drivers do have change, but small notes are best). As you do your transaction, note the decor. Almost without exception, the driver’s area is decked out with religious icons and small plaques (often of a spiritual subject): one bus I rode even had a small shrine to the Madonna and Child.

Once everyone’s onboard, the fun begins. With a screech of gears, a belch of exhaust, and much bleating of the horn, you start off. Stops are not always announced like they are in the States, so ask the driver or a fellow passenger where to get off if you need directions. As you bump along, you’ll be amazed at the manual dexterity of your driver as he steers, operates the clutch, smokes a cigarette, waves to other bus drivers, gesticulates wildly, and yells at other motorists who block the road or otherwise impede his progress. If you’re sitting up front, you’ll have a clear view of all the near-death experiences... on second thought, sit in the back - it’s better if you don’t know. One day on the road to Mdina, we were headed down a very narrow lane with low stone walls on each side. A car started down the road toward us: soon, our bus and the car were at an impasse. Our fearless driver yelled out the window at the hapless motorist, and though my skills in Malti, the local language, are a bit rusty, I think the conversation went something like this:

Bus Driver: "Son of a swine, you’re in the way! Back up so I can pass."

Hapless Motorist: "Like I care, I have a hot date in Valetta."

Bus Driver: "Your date, like you, has the face of a horse’s rear end, and besides, she’s sleeping with my brother."

Hapless Motorist: "No way, if your brother is as ugly as you are."

Bus Driver: "My brother is a handsome, virile man, with his own casino."

The conversation went on in a similar vein for about 5 more minutes before the motorist decided that in the game of tiny car versus bus, he would lose. By this time, there were cars stopped behind him, so it was quite a spectacle as about five cars backed down the narrow road and out onto the highway. We were soon on the highway, bumping along once more towards Mdina.

If you’re going to be in Malta for an extended period of time, it’s also possible to buy day or multi-day passes. A 1-day pass is 1.50 Maltese Lira (about $4.50), a 3-day pass is 4 Maltese Lira, a 5-day pass is 4.50 Maltese Lira, and a 7-day pass is 5.50 Maltese Lira. Prices of individual rides vary from about 0.15 to 0.40 cents (Maltese).