Paris for Beginners

Armed with our guidebooks and "Learn To Speak French" CDs, we thought we had the perfect plan to see and do it all. Boy, were we wrong! It didn’t help that we were jet-lagged for almost a week. Paris is a vibrant city with enough sights to last way more vacation days than I’ll ever have. Our favorites were the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, the Pantheon, Sacre-Coeur, and the boulangerie across the street from our hotel. Really the best part was the adventure and excitement that comes from being in a foreign country. We had countless laughs over our attempts to speak French and getting lost.

If you love architecture and art, Paris is the city for you. It is just a shame that there will always be scaffolding or improvements being made to at least one site all the time. Don’t worry, though; there is always something else to see. To me, it is just so breathtaking to see buildings built more than 400 years ago that are so magnificent. Being from California, we aren’t used to such huge, historic, and grand buildings. Even just roaming through the markets was a bit of a culture shock for us. We are so used to huge supermarkets; it was amazing to see so many small specialized shops with such fresh food!

Our only disappointment came from the food. We love food, and Paris is supposed to be a legend. We were worried that maybe we just didn’t like French food until we went to Lyon and Nice, where we had some of the best food of our young lives. Maybe we just had bad luck, but at best, our meals were okay. However, the sweets are to-die-for.

All in all, Paris is a must-see. If you have the opportunity, do it! That said, I’d also highly recommend Lyon and Nice for two completely different looks into French culture.

Quick Tips:

Take the guided tour at the Louvre for only €10; it was one of the most wonderful and informative things we did.

Watch out for poop! The French love their dogs, but do not love to clean up after them.

Learn French if you plan to venture out of the normal tourist areas.

We thought it would be nice to have our breakfast in the Jardin des Tuileries, but we were attacked by hungry birds that were swooping on us.

Jeans and tennis shoes are okay. Yes, the locals wear them. The only difference is that they are neat and put together when they wear them. Bring an alarm clock and hair dryer if you want them, since many hotels don’t provide them.

If you want to eat outside at a café, just seat yourself. If you go inside to look for someone, they will assume you want to eat inside and will seat you indoors.

Watch out for Jamaicans with string! Don’t let them tie it around your wrist unless you want a string bracelet for €20. I was suckered but at least talked them down to €5, but I saw plenty of people forking over the full amount.

Best Way To Get Around:

Warning – DO NOT drive in Paris unless you absolutely have to. We were amazed at not only the traffic but the lack of consideration Parisians have for their (and other) cars. We often saw cars trying to fit into the tiniest spaces, and if there wasn’t room, they’d make room by bumping the car in front or in back of the space.

Paris has an awesome public transportation system. If you get there at the beginning of the week (Monday or Tuesday) and will be there for a week or more and plan to use the subway, look into getting the "Carte Orange" for €14.50. It is a pass that gives you unlimited use to the metro, RER, buses, and funiculars for a week (Monday-Sunday) and should be enough to get you everywhere you want to go in Paris. Be aware, though, that you’ll have to submit a passport-sized photo, but there are photo booths everywhere if you need to take one. Otherwise, you can buy day passes. There is also the "Paris Visite" pass that includes the same unlimited use of public transportation but also includes discounts to some attractions, but we felt it was overpriced.

At 65€, this is good place to stay for the budget conscious. Some may not consider this cheap, but it is one of the less-expensive rooms in Paris that has a private bathroom and shower.

The rooms are a decent size by European standards. Our room had a double bed, a small desk, and two chairs, and the décor was quite quaint. In our first room (we returned for the last 2 nights of our trip), the toilet was in a separate closet-like space from the shower and sink. The bathrooms are pretty small by American standards (some may categorize the shower as microscopic), but they are very clean.

The employees speak English (a great plus for us), and the owners have put together a booklet of local sights and restaurants. They were also very quick at responding to my emails, as I made a few changes to our dates before we left the States and also asked for suggestions on transportation to/from the airport.

The location isn’t central to many of the most-visited tourist sights, but it is only a few steps from the metro, which makes it very convenient. However, the flip-side to this convenience is that you can feel a slight vibration as the trains pass. We barely felt it during our first stay since we were on the third (top) floor, but it was more noticeable when we were on the first floor (although it didn’t keep us up). Other than that, the hotel was pretty quiet.

The hotel has a computer with Internet access that guests can use for a small fee, and I found this to be very convenient. It also has an optional basic French breakfast that includes a croissant, jam, juice, and coffee, available for 6€. They will even deliver it to your room if you’d like. However, the best boulangerie that we encountered during our entire trip is across the street, so we went there instead.

One last thing, the hotel has what has to be the smallest elevator in the world (see the pic)! We had a pretty good stay here, and I really think that the owners try to offer their guests the most that they can for the rate they charge. It was a great value.

This was one of our better meals in Paris. It was a little on the pricy side, but the food was excellent in my opinion. Again, we did the formule for lunch, which included an entrée and plat or plat and dessert for 20€ (we actually thought it included all three courses). The waitresses were all very helpful. They have a menu in English, but it does not have the formule listed, so the waitress helped us out with what the choices were. My sister had the homemade terrine, and I had the carpaccio. For the main dish, she had seared tuna with mashed potatoes (delicious!), and I had the lamb skewers. For dessert, we split the raspberry biscuit with lime and basil sorbet, just because it sounded so different. The biscuit was sort of a chewy meringue that was offset with a pistachio crème and fresh raspberries. The sorbet was a little tart for my taste but went well when eaten with everything else. They are also well-known for their oysters, but we aren’t fans, so we didn’t try them.

It was an upscale/business-suit crowd, but we were there for lunch on a weekday. The place is decorated with all types of jazz motif, and it has a full bar. It is pretty large and has an upstairs lounge area, and I think that they may play music at night.

Oddly, this was one of the first places we visited. It wasn’t that it was high on our list, but we just happened to be in the area and decided to swing by. It ended up being one of the highlights of our trip! It was our first exposure to the magnitude of French architecture. What started as the burial site of Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris, was later turned into a national monument. Completed in 1790, it alternated in its duties as a place of worship and civic temple. In 1885, it seemed to be the only place worthy to entomb the French’s beloved Victor Hugo. Since then, it has been one of the most prestigious burial sites, and Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and Jean Monnet have all been laid to rest in the Pantheon.

The building itself is simply beautiful. It has a solemn atmosphere, but at the same time, it is inviting. It has large open spaces and a mixture of Greek and Gothic architecture. The best free thing that we did on our entire trip was take the tour to the top dome. Be aware, it is about 400 some odd stairs, and you can only see the upper areas with a guide during designated times, but it is definitely worth it. The guides are there more to escort you safely up and down the narrow, twisting staircases than to explain anything, but it is still a must do. Not only do you get close-up views of the frescoes of the domes, but you also get fantastic views of the city (not to mention a workout!).

There is a small fee for admission, but it is included in the museum pass.

This is a massive museum. You could spend at least 3 days straight here before you see everything. Take the guided tour; it really helps you to maximize your time. For an additional 10€, you get a live tour guide in your selected language. The guide explained that the Louvre started out as a palace built in the late 12th century and then took us below ground to see the original ruins. The walkway is where the moat used to be, and you can see various well-preserved towers and walls of the fortress. I found this to be one of the most interesting aspects of the Louvre. Of course, our guide also showed us the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Napoleon’s Crown Jewels, and the massive Marriage Feast at Cana, among countless other works of art. All the while, he fed us interesting facts and answered questions. The tour gives you a great overview and helps you get your bearings in the immense museum. There are also numerous shops and eateries inside the complex if you need a break.

The day we visited the Notre Dame, there was some scaffolding on the exterior, but we could still see the beautiful Gothic façade. If you take a look at my photo of one of the entrances to the church, you can get a sense of just how detailed it is. The whole exterior is covered with various scenes of Christ and the Virgin. It was the first time that I’ve seen a church of this magnitude. The interior is filled with the most impressive stained-glass windows. I am not an extremely religious person, but you cannot help but feel spiritual in a place such as this. Go early, as we got there too late to visit the towers (which I have heard are stunning).

Napoleon was a tiny guy, but he sure did know how to think big! The Arc de Triomphe is a huge monument that he built to honor the Grand Army and just so happens to lie at the center of a traffic hellhole. One of my favorite things about going to the top of the Arc is to view the mad traffic that surrounds it. It is absolutely hilarious and a perfect example of why you don’t want to drive in Paris. However, be aware that there are 284 steps (and no elevator) to the top to see this.

In addition to the view from the top, the monument also houses the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. It was built to commemorate the lives lost in the two world wars, but it also serves as a solemn reminder of all the lives lost in history’s darkest times. A flame and a memorial where people lay flowers mark the spot.

Inside the Arc, there is an excellent exhibit of photos from World War II. I think that there is supposed to be another area that covers more information on the building of the Arc, but it was closed for remodeling. The price of the Arc de Triomphe is also covered in the museum pass if you have it. Oh, by the way, make sure to take the underground passageway to the Arc. We actually saw people risking death by trying to run across the 12 lanes that encircle the monument.

What is it about the Eiffel Tower that makes a normal person like me take 47 pictures of it? I had to take pictures of it not only when I actually visited it, but also every time I saw it, no matter how far away I was. The quintessential symbol of Paris is a must-see, but be prepared for a long wait. There are two elevators up and three different viewing platforms. Prices vary according to the highest platform you want to visit. If you pay to go to the top, you can also stop at the other platforms. The elevator ride up will be a crowded one, so it isn’t recommended for those with claustrophobia. Also, because of the angle that it rises at, it feels a little like a freefall ride at an amusement park.

By the time we made it up to the first platform, it was already dark. We wanted to drop off our postcards to have them postmarked from the Eiffel Tower, but we were too late. Instead, we had to buy envelopes from the gift store and slip them underneath the door of the Eiffel Tower’s post office. They did get the coveted postmark, though! We contemplated splurging on dinner at the restaurant but decided that they were a little too expensive for us (maybe next time). I think that the second viewing platform was the best since the top one tends to get kinda cloudy at night. It was quite nice to see Paris all lit up at night.

This is a bar that also serves food, and it’s not a club. We actually wanted to eat at the place next door because it was recommended by a guidebook, but it was closed (a half- hour earlier than their posted closing time). Fortunately, one of the waiters at Le Crapaud Bistro flagged us down and told us that they would give us a free glass of Kir if we came inside. How could we refuse? For only 9.50€, we got an entrée or dessert and a plat du jour in addition to our free Kir. For those of you that don’t know (we didn’t), Kir is a common aperitif in France served like a shot. Okay, it is not gourmet fare, but it was fresh, hot, and tasty. My sister got an appetizer plate with pate, slices of sausage, cheese, and pickles. I got an apple tart for dessert, and we both got the dish of the day, tomates farcies. This is a ground veal-stuffed tomato with rice. (It may not sound like much, but it was very good.)

On top of having good food and a full bar, this was by far the friendliest staff that I have ever come across. When they found out that we were from California, they pulled out all the American pop culture they could remember! They were hilarious! They asked me if I knew Snoop Doggy Dog (and started to sing for us) or the TV Show "CHiPS," and they asked me how "Arnie" (the Terminator) was. They also helped us work on our French, such as telling me that I shouldn’t say, "Je suis fini," when I am finished with a meal since it means that I am dead or dying. The correct phrase is "Je fini." Danny speaks the most English, but he made sure to get everyone into the act with whatever they knew about the States. He also clued us into where to go at night. He suggested the CAB, VIP Room, and Barrio Latino (sadly, we never made it to any of them). These guys were a riot! If you go, tell them that Sheri and Crystal say, "Hi from the Westside!"

We aren’t big history buffs, but we decided to stop by Les Invalides to visit Napoleon’s tomb. Once there, we found out that Les Invalides was also built to be a home to injured soldiers. In fact, there is still a working hospital on the grounds. There is also the Musee de l’Aremee that houses artifacts, from suits of armor to different types of weapons used throughout the years. I can’t say it was really my thing, but those interested in military relics may find it intriguing.

What I did enjoy, though, was the building itself and the church. The building had the most interesting windows that were done up as suits of armor. There is also a large courtyard bordered with cannons and interesting astrological clocks. The church is actually divided in two. One side was for the soldiers and the other side was for the royalty. It was quite unique. Of course, there was also Napoleon’s tomb which was huge. He was originally buried at St. Helena, which is where he was exiled to, but he was moved back to Paris in 1840.

The Basilique du Sacre-Cour was one of the highlights of our trip. Views from Montmarte are outstanding, and it is a very quaint area. The easiest way up is the funicular, which is included if you have a metro pass. Otherwise, it is a long hike up the stairs. I want to warn people about the "Jamaicans with the string." These guys stand around the outside of the stairs and funiculars to try to trap you into buying a bracelet made of string. They will ask you to hold the string for them, then quickly make a bracelet and tie it around your wrist. Then they will try to charge you 20€ for it. Don’t fall for it!

The Sacre-Cour has the most beautiful mosaics; unfortunately, they don’t allow you to take photos. The interior is really dark and has a very solemn feel to it, but it really makes the mosaics stand out that much more. I read that the crypt is supposed to house a piece of Christ’s heart, but I couldn’t find where it was supposed to be. The gift shop has a large assortment of rosaries, postcards, and other religious merchandise.

Once you’re done, walk around the area surrounding the Sacre-Cour. The shops are very touristy, but there was a great little art fair the Saturday we were there. Be aware, though, there are a lot of street peddlers that want to draw your picture, too, and they can get a little annoying. We took the stairs back down, and it had this really cool "Parisian park" feel to it. Another thing you may want to do while you are in the area is grab some sweets from the patisserie, Le Gostelier, across from where the funicular is, and sit and enjoy the park and carousel. We did a little sampler of mini pastries, and it was really yummy.

Opera Garnier is said to be the setting for the famed Phantom of the Opera. Once you go inside, you can really get a sense of that. It is a massive building filled with lots of candelabras, bronze, and marble sculptures. All the candelabras really lend to the whole "Phantom" setting. The opera house is a masterpiece just in the design and the architecture. The ceilings have been painted by Marc Chagall, and everything is just so elaborate! The grand staircase is beautiful and ornate, and everyone stops to take pictures on it. We also saw a lot of people sitting in various places sketching. The façade is adorned with marble sculptures, also including The Dance by Carpeaux. The performance area is huge, complete with box seats. We wanted to try to catch a performance, but they were sold out. Oh well, maybe next time.

Packing: If you are planning on traveling from city to city via trains, pack as light as possible. We made the mistake of a full-sized suitcase each (after all, we were going to be traveling for 3 weeks!). The trains do not have much space for full-size luggage. They have small overhead racks that can fit a small carry-on and a small closet-like space in each car for larger luggage (but this area fills up fast). Also, you have to lug your stuff around yourself, and often times that means up and down stairs. Without the help