East of Xian

The eastern tour of Xian was just rammed with sites, including, of course, the Terracotta Warriors (see separate journal entry). We travelled through some interesting scenery, and I was struck by some of the ethnic groups that we saw en route. I’m not naive enough to assume that some of the people we saw had not dressed to appeal to the visiting tourists, but facially, these people were full of character. Making a living has been, and indeed still is, extremely hard in China, and the faces said it all as they laboured in fields, waited at roadside market stalls for passing trade, or staffed the numerous tables selling souvenirs to tourists.

We had Chinese history explained to us at the Xian Incident Park, but despite the repeated efforts of the guide, I was still left with great chunks of the story missing – even reading the plaques didn’t help, as much was lost in the interpretation. I do intend to read up a little to try and fill in the missing parts of this jigsaw. As we climbed the winding path to the summit, we saw American artillery used in the Chinese-Japanese altercation and had the "hidey hole" of Chiang Kai Shek pointed out to us. Notwithstanding the torrid history of this spot, there were some magnificent views of the surrounding countryside.

This tour was truly international, and it was great fun sharing the bus with tourists from America, Japan, Germany, Netherlands, and Poland. Our guide was helpful, but in all fairness, too limited in her understanding of English to be able to respond to individual questions. We all had great fun trying to decipher her "coded language."

This is by no means a leisurely day, but the organised trip did ensure that you reached the main sites east of Xian and were guided through to the front of any queue. The coach journey gave us time enough to reflect and rest our ever-growing-weary limbs before being hurled into the next sight. I didn’t think there could be so many "world heritage sites" in such a small geographical area. The trip also gave us a glimpse into the cultures of both ancient and modern China. We were still buzzing at the end of the day, but our feet were throbbing with the day’s punishment.

Quick Tips:

Make sure that you don’t succumb to purchasing pressure. At all the major sites there are hawkers trying their best to earn a crust. But they do surround you and try to "beat you into submission." As always, it’s best to have a good idea of what you might want to buy and what you’re prepared to spend before you even attempt to run the gauntlet of tourist-hungry traders. The ones round the Terracotta Warriors were perhaps the most persistent that we encountered throughout our holiday in China, but if you’re prepared for the worst, you’ll beat them at their own game.

I wanted some miniature warriors, and it was quickly apparent that if I named my price excessively low and didn’t negotiate, I’d get a catch at some point. Sure enough, one of the traders took the bait, thinking once I’d got the box in my hand, he could renegotiate the price. How wrong could he be! I ended up with a box of warriors for 15RMB (a tenth of the price in the shops and just as good a quality. Main tip: Shop around and be assertive.

Best Way To Get Around:

In my view, the eastern tour is the best way to see the Terracotta Warriors and other associated sites. We’d checked out the prices before we left England, so we had a reasonable view of the range. We actually found that the hotel price matched the organised tour with CITS after a little bantering, and as it covered all the major sites, we went with it.

We did see tour buses in the centre of Xian offering the same service, but they looked like "boneshakers" to me and the saving was miniscule. A much cheaper option, according to the holiday guides, is the Chinese minibuses departing from the train station. These are probably a fifth of the price, but they don’t have an English guide, the buses are smaller and less comfortable, and admission prices are excluded. Organising your own trip with a taxi may provide greater comfort but introduces hassle and additional organisation for you.

Overall, we thought the organised trip offered a good value and a trouble-free day.

I don’t know of anyone who doesn’t want to see the Terracotta Warriors, and I’ve nursed an ambition for several years to see them in all their glory. And I’m certainly pleased I did. We’d been told that photography was not allowed, but I’m pleased to say that it is now permitted as long as you don’t try to use a tripod (these are expressly forbidden).

It’s a large complex, and being short on time, we took the 5RMB, open-sided bus ride up to the top. This is the cost of the return journey and makes short work of the uphill climb to the museum. Effectively, there are four buildings that you must visit. We went to the museum first, which housed the golden chariots and horses. These have been beautifully restored and are protected from the elements in sealed glass units. The chariots’ parasols look stunning, still protecting the rider from the elements and the lead horse, with its head plume standing proudly, ready to guide the other horses forward. I was less interested in the next section of the museum, which felt more like propaganda, as display cabinets sported photographs of international dignitaries who had visited the site.

Next we were advised to view the panoramic film presentation of the history of the birth and destruction of the Warriors. This did put the whole site into perspective and enabled me to view the "actual" Warriors with a basic knowledge of their place in history. It was a good film and about the right length. Now we were ready to make the journey to the home of the warriors. A short brisk walk and I could feel the excitement rising. We go up some steps and then enter the massive arena that houses the treasured warriors. I could smell the clay and almost feel history as the warriors appeared in my line of vision. Many stood erect, some without heads, and countless figures lay in various states of disarray, having been destroyed by the collapse of the vault’s roof or the mindless vandalism of marauding troops.

We both stand in awe, gazing at the figures, all with their own character and distinguishing marks. It was said that the emperor threatened to kill any of the men if they failed to produce a perfect figure or if there were similarities between the figures. No twins here! It’s best to forget the notion of restoration and just remind yourself that what you see is a small percentage of the whole. A second building contains less well-maintained warriors, although there are some superb horses and clear evidence to support the story of a rampant fire in one of the vault’s corridors – you can clearly see the charred remains of a wooden beam.

Amusingly, our guide had told us, in a hushed whisper, that we might be fortunate enough to see the "old man who found the site." Guess who was at a book signing!

It is claimed that Huaqing Palace (or Huaqing Hot Springs) has been around for over 3,000 years as a Royal Garden, and even before that as a place possessing "magical healing waters." It’s also had a string of international dignitaries over recent decades, whose visits are proudly listed in the centre’s museum and brochure.

The park is incredibly scenic, lush in its vegetation with well-kept water features and some stunning architecture and statues. As you enter the park, a statue of an emperor’s favoured concubine looks down benignly at you from the side of a pool – in the background, eight dragon heads spew fresh water into the lake. Pagodas surround the pool, and the still waters reflect back their colourful, slightly distorted images.

In the park is the oldest theatre of the arts in China - its multi-levelled curvaceous roofs making it a stunning architectural attraction. But the palace grounds are best known for its bathhouses, and they, with their exotic names, dominate the site. There’s the lotus flower bath, the Chinese flowering crabapple bath, Prince bath, and Shangshi bath. All were once the sole territory of the emperor and his concubine, and a brief act of contemplation brought the luxurious image of the extravagant lifestyle enjoyed by the autocratic rulers of this ancient kingdom.

Nowadays, you, for a small fee, can enjoy the sensation of hot natural spring water flowing from the sculptured lotus flower and perhaps enjoy the thought that generations of Chinese royalty have rested their loins in this very spot.

The park has an interesting mix of bath houses, open wells, pavilions, and functional buildings, but perhaps the most memorable features are the walkways that meander around the grounds. There are some fascinating bridges wending their way across the lakes and streams, leading to quiet secluded gardens or pagodas perched in the hills that wrap themselves around this picturesque park. At one open well, the hot gushing waters steamed vigorously as the water hit the open air. A series of channels led the water to the large covered bathing areas that had once been reserved for the emperor, and the balcony around the pool had a superb view out to the beautifully manicured garden.

A small island set in a "country garden" and surrounded by bridges and walkways caught my attention, and I headed for the very centre. Here, open-sided buildings gave cover whilst allowing me to enjoy the open aspect of the secluded garden. Shaped trees abounded in this quiet space, and it seemed, for a few moments, as if I was free of the tourist trail. Indeed I was, because, for a while, none of the other parties had found my "private garden."

Although the plants were not in full bloom, it must be superb when the blossoms are on the tree. We were able to enjoy a tranquillity that I guess does not occur in the height of the season.

This appears to be a fairly uninspiring site because it doesn’t have a wealth of architectural beauty or tremendous gardens. A "propaganda pavilion" displays the sights of this historic venue, and if you grab a free pamphlet, it will help you find your way around.

There is a long, steep walk up a series of uneven and awkward concrete steps to the summit of a man-made hill. Having made it to the top, we were now standing over the mausoleum of Ying Zheng, the first emperor of the Qin dynasty back in 221 BC. The view from the top is truly wonderful, and as the song goes, "on a clear day you can see forever." Other than the view and a number of manicured potted trees, there is nothing else up here, so we took a steady walk down, avoiding the many tourists posing on the steps for photographs.

Our timing couldn’t have been better, because within seconds, we heard the somber beating of drums and the wailing of horns. We were about to see a reconstruction parade of early Chinese warriors. It was certainly noisy and extremely colourful, with often clashing colours – pinks and oranges, blues and turquoises, lilacs and greens – sharing the same attire. Strange hats balanced precariously on the heads of the young actors as they seriously performed their role. Leather-armoured warriors tried to look ferocious as they swaggered with mock war-like strides, thrusting their pikes at the onlookers.

I was never sure what this pageant was representing, but it really didn’t matter as we watched large flags fluttering in the gentle breeze and felt the drum beats as they resonated around the small arena. Large males strutted with ungainly posture to the clashing of cymbals, waving large lances at each other in a semi-menacing war dance. I’m not sure if I’m alone in this, but I just couldn’t resist joining the parade as it began its final march around the small cobbled arena.

Small horse and traps waited near to the arena offering rides around the park. This is the downside of an organised tour, because we were unable to consider a ride due to the time restrain. Not to worry, we went to explore inscribed bamboo slip-wall. I’m sure this is highly significant, but all I can say is it’s long, inscribed, and made of bamboo! Formal gardens abound at this site, and they are interspersed with strange carved mythical animals just small enough to trip over if you’re not careful. The spring blossom was just beginning to burst through and gave super eruption of colour as we wandered the grounds.

There’s a small museum here showing some of the "cultural relics" (including armour and helmet, bronze axes and daggers, and some amazingly intact bronze pots and jars) and a chance to view the remains of an ancient drainage system.

We enjoyed this visit, but only pop in if you’ve got the time!

This was the first of our visits on the Eastern Tour, and the small Ling Tong Museum provided us with an interesting start to our day. Just through the entrance gate, a strange sculptured figure guarded the pagodas, and we were told that this well-caressed figure brought good luck to those that touched it. The luck varied depending on where you touched the beast, but you could be "guaranteed" long life, wealth, or an improved sex life (beats Viagra!) People were queuing to have a rub and their photographs taken. Now, I’m not superstitious, but I joined the queue, and after some contemplation, decided to opt for a long and healthy life. Judging by the shininess on the figure, this came a close second to the desire for wealth.

A series of pavilions were clustered around the small courtyard, and with their pink columns and bright, ornate carvings, they made a colourful addition to the lush surroundings. Open balconies allowed us to walk round the first floor of the tallest pavilion and gave great views across the tops of the lower-level buildings to the surrounding countryside. Of particular note is a tall, modern stainless-steel sculpture that has been given pride of place in the square near to the museum’s entrance.

Up on the first floor, a small museum had numerous excavated statues of horses, warriors, and Chinese men of substance. There were various more sinister beings - I presumed representations of demons and other mythical animals. All were in great condition or had been carefully restored.

The next museum showed a fascinating insight into the Qin Dynasty. A notice listed punishments relating to the penal laws of the emperor. Corporal punishment could take the form of beating with a whip (Chi), cutting off the nose (Yi), or removal of the man’s reproductive organ (,I>Gong). But the dynasty provided a number of alternatives for the death penalty, including Peng (boiling until dead), Xiaoshou (cutting off the head), and Chuosi (poking the deceased repeatedly). As if that wasn’t enough, Emperor Qin sometimes deemed it necessary to punish the dead man’s family by Jino (confiscation of property and the family becoming slaves) or Lianzuo (punishing the family and five neighbours). I would certainly not have wanted to incur the wrath of this powerful despot!

Inside another of the museum buildings was our first glimpse of some terracotta soldiers set against a brightly painted fresco. Be warned that if you want a photo of these, you’ll have to pay – and they are nowhere near as impressive as the "real site."

The tombs of Liumoa were also on this site – I’m really not sure who this was, and the burial plot was tucked around the side of one of the pavilions hidden in a rough cave and marked only with a couple of fairly ordinary slabs. I can’t remember anyone else bothering to check out this burial site, so I guess this guy really wasn’t that important!