Classic Canterbury

The name of this hotel does not give false impressions. The rooms are actually part of the barrier to the cathedral, literally right next door to the main gate of the cathedral, just off the charming cobblestone square. The location is about as central to the tourist part of town as you can get, yet the rooms are a decent bargain for the area. There is certainly nothing glamorous about the furnishings and dressings, though they can vary from room to room. The floors in our suite had a noticeable slant to them. However, each room is unique. Twisting corridors and even outdoor pathways lend charm to this quaint establishment. To get to our room, we had to walk outside just next to someone's back porch, where we had an unobstructed view into the cathedral complex. You pay extra for en-suite facilities, but less for "economy" rooms on the third floor. A light continental breakfast is included, plus Starbucks is literally right downstairs - the bay windows of the hotel's dining room extend right over its sign!

The old walls are still visible in many places around the city of Bath, and the West Gate is probably the best-preserved section. Visitors are allowed inside for a small fee at certain times each day. There is a small museum telling stories from when the gate housed a cell for dangerous criminals. The top of the gate, reached through a narrow stairway not for the faint of heart, provides a nice view of the surrounding area.

Although Canterbury is most famous for its grand cathedral, it wasn’t the first large church in the city. St. Augustine’s Abbey is actually outside of the old city walls and was founded around 600 A.D., before the wall was built. It’s only a short walk from the city center, and you can follow the signs. This compound is a fascinating look back at the beginnings of established Christianity in England and is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Canterbury.

The Abbey actually consists of several different sets of ruins, which visitors are allowed to traipse through. It is laid out much like a typical cathedral, although in many areas, only the foundations remain. Your (small) admission fee includes an audio tour that takes you through each structure, telling about the evolution and different uses of the abbey. There is also a small museum displaying artifacts found among the ruins. Even if you are not interested in the history of the place, the ruins and the grassy knoll on which they stand are simply gorgeous. Many visitors to Canterbury don’t know about this gem just outside of town, and on the day we visited, we saw maybe three other small groups or individuals. There was certainly plenty of space to explore on our own and to enjoy the serenity of the location. If you have more than a day or so in Canterbury, make sure to add this to your itinerary.

Every evening, the Cathedral bells ring out the start of Evensong (a daily religious service). We visited Canterbury in mid-winter, so it was dusk at the time of Evensong, and the bells beaconed mystically through the streets of the city in the darkness. Surprisingly, there were few attendees of the service, but that made it possible for all of us to sit in the quire up close to the choirsters and those leading the service. It was close and intimate but still very much a religious service. There is some congregational participation, but it is minimal. Even if the service makes you uncomfortable, the sounds of the boys' choir and the organ filling up that tremendous cathedral are not to be missed. I was amazed that so few visitors took care of this incredible - and free - opportunity.