Provincetown, M.A. is a Magical Locale

Do you want to feel liberated and just be yourself (especially if you’re gay)? And then be able to enjoy numerous activities and adventures? If so, Provincetown, MA, is the right vacation spot for you.

When my partner and I decided on a destination that would embrace same-sex couples, Provincetown was the one that topped our list. I guess it is because Provincetown (fondly nicknamed as P-town) is known as a gay mecca. Once you arrive in this beautiful resort town, you soon realize that. There are enormous rainbow flags (a gay-pride symbol) flying proudly on some of the fishing excursion boats and bed-and-breakfasts. Rainbow clothes and items are in the majority of the stores. Many, many, many gay shop owners, gay artists, and gay tourists are here. And there are several signs advertising gay events, such as the annual Women’s Week in October (lesbians from all over the world gather here to celebrate). Hence, diversity is present and the town promotes it.

I have been to P-town several times, and each time is just as precious to me as the ones before. My fondest memories of it are the following: staying at a cozy bed-and-breakfast (Halley’s); going on the whale-watching tour (Portuguese Princess); viewing the Pilgrim Monument; eating at Lobster Pot, Fat Jacks, and Martin House; driving around and visiting lighthouses; enjoying the vibrant nightlife; beach combing and swimming at Herring Cove Beach (2001 trip); and shopping on Commercial Street (Cabot’s Candy is the best).

If any of the activities I have already mentioned sound intriguing to you, I recommend that you pack your bag for this lovely New England town. Provincetown provides a climate full of fun, diversity, and beauty.

Quick Tips:

I have three suggestions for your stay in Provincetown. One, you should book early if you plan on attending any event or festival or are staying in the summer. Two, wear comfortable shoes to walk in since you probably will be shopping and going on whale-watching tours and fishing excursions. And three, if you want to save money on your accommodation and shopping expenses (specifically, on buying clothes) and not be around crowds, than go during the off-season (after Labor Day). The only time innkeepers will increase prices during this time is when there is an event or festival happening.

Best Way To Get Around:

I would recommend that you don’t bring a car unless you want to drive to see the various lighthouses, because the streets are narrow. It is a hassle to drive in the congested traffic. And parking costs are expensive and parking lots are always filled in the summer. Therefore, the best way to travel is on foot.

There are many bed-and-breakfasts in Provincetown, but on the trip in October 1996, we arrived without reservations. Luckily for us, we found a cute, small bed-and-breakfast called Halley’s. Our accommodation was an upstairs studio. It was delightful place with a double bed, kitchen area, and a bathroom (with a shower). We stayed here for four nights at a moderate price—under $70 a night (off-season).

The innkeepers were a lovely lesbian couple. They made sure we were settled in comfortably (they even offered more blankets if we needed them, since it was October), and there was a basket of scented soaps and lotions in the bathroom. They also showed us that we had our own private entrance and deck. We even had our own private picnic table. And we were provided with a parking spot.

For breakfast, they provided fruit, yogurt, and cereal. There was also a basket of a variety of gourmet coffee packets near our coffee pot in our studio kitchen.

Although Halley’s was not really close to the shopping district (you could walk it, but it was a pretty long one), the ambience made it up tenfold. As I mentioned, the innkeepers were very kind. They were informative as well. For example, they told us the best places to eat and where to shop for bargains. Lastly, our studio was extremely clean, well-maintained, and tastefully decorated. Consequently, I recommend this bed-and-breakfast (but I am not sure if it is still in operation; I can’t seem to find it listed on the webpage they use to advertise on).

We stayed at The Dunes in September 2001. We stayed for three nights. We went here because we didn’t have reservations. It is located on the west end of Provincetown. This is not a bed-and-breakfast establishment. Instead, it just rents rooms and apartments.

Our room was very small and on the second floor. It was Cape Cod-style. The walls were pine-paneled. It had one double bed, a writing table attached to the wall, clock/radio, cable TV, and a private shower. It also had a portable fan (no air-conditioning here). Daily housekeeping was furnished too. We had a deck too that was shared with other rooms. We also were provided with a free parking space. For this room, we paid a mid-season price, which was just under $60.

The Dunes does offer other lodging that has more amenities. Some units have fireplaces and gardens. And some units have kitchenettes and refrigerators. And a barbecue grill is available for guests who rent apartments.

The Dunes is in an ideal location for people who want to walk to Herring Cove Beach—it is a 15-minute walk. And if you want to buy food and rent bikes for the beach, they are across the street from Gale Force Bikes and Beach Market. Although they advertise they are 15 minutes away from the center of P-town, I think it is much longer. As a result, we took our rental car. The driving was not congested for this time of the year.

Concerning the staff that works here, most are cordial. However, my partner was ill-treated when she was inquiring about our accommodation’s amenities. She was responded to in an abrupt fashion by one individual.

I somewhat recommend this accommodation because of its location near the beach, and it is across from a place that rents bikes and sells food. But because my partner was treated rudely by one individual, and because it has no air-conditioning and our room was extremely small, I would say we will never stay here again.

Lobster Pot has always been my favorite eatery, since I first vacationed to Provincetown in 1996. When we first stumbled upon it, we were taken in by its huge lit-up sign with the enormous lobster. I knew then, it served at least seafood and seafood is my favorite cuisine. In addition, we saw this huge line that formed outside the restaurant and down the block. And then we knew that this place had to be a fantastic place to eat if everyone was standing in line to eat there.

When we entered Lobster Pot, it did not have a fancy décor. You first walk in and pass the open area, where you can see the chiefs cook and you pass the tank where the live lobsters are. Then a hostess or a waiter will take you to your seating. If a diner is alone, I have seen the waiter take him/her to a very small table with a table light on it. This is convenient for someone that wants to read. And I have seen many locals do just that. For couples, they usually try to sit them in a more romantic seating so they are closer to view the Provincetown Harbor. Or if it is the evening, they will open the second dining room area (upstairs). There you are whisked away to a more secluded dining room, overlooking the harbor. But no matter where you sit, you will enjoy your dining experience here.

The ambience here is wonderful. One, this quaint New England eatery has both the locals and the tourists that dine here. Two, it provides the customer with a wonderful view of the harbor. Three, a customer can order either a traditional clam bake or try a more unique Portuguese entrée. Four, it has an extensive list of wines. And lastly, polite and courteous staff is always working.

Although I have tried numerous soups, sandwiches, and entrees here, my favorites are the lobster bisque, Cape tip Reuben, and baked stuffed sole. For lunch, I like usually order the lobster bisque or the Cape tip Reuben. The Lobster Bisque is a soup that has seafood in it and is cooked in a traditional New England recipe. And the Cape tip Reuben consists of fried cod fish, coleslaw, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing. For dinner, I order the baked stuffed sole, which is off their Chef’s Corner board --it is their unique/traditional/signature entrées. It has fresh fillets wrapped around their homemade seafood stuffing and is baked in a creamy mushroom sauce.

I highly recommend that you dine here, not only for the aforementioned, but because it is part of the culture of Provincetown. In my opinion, if you haven’t experienced dining here, then you haven’t been to Provincetown. It has been in business for many years and has had patronage from both locals and tourists throughout those years.

In 2001, I went to the Herring Cove Beach. Our vacation then was in the middle of September. Therefore, the beach was pretty much dissolute. We only saw four people besides us. Hence, we had plenty of room to put down our beach blanket. The weather that day was sunny but chilly. But in spite of this, we entered the ocean. It was cold, but it was still fun (but I did get knocked down by enormous waves, and I can't swim). Then I did some beachcombing and discovered some gorgeous shells for my nautical décor at home. Lastly, we saw a great sunset over the water.

My partner (who has been here numerous times) told me that in the summer Herring Cove Beach is very crowded and mostly by gay people. She said that on the right side of this beach, usually heterosexuals are present. And on the left side, the gay people are present. The lesbians will gather first here, and then the gay guys are located past the point. But she doesn’t know anything about who predominantly occupies the Race Point Beach, since she never was there. But what I read, besides what I have already mentioned, said the two main differences of these beaches is that Race Point is surrounded by awesome sand dunes, and Herring Cove has calmer waters.

As noted above, there are mostly gay people who occupy the Herring Cove Beach. And occasionally a nude swimmer or a nude sun worshipper can be present (even though it is against the law to do so here). In addition, it is not uncommon for gay organizations to have "drag queens" hand out free condoms on the Herring Cove Beach. And gay entertainers, such as comedians, will occasionally be on the beach to announce their act will be playing at a local club in P-town. Therefore, if you or your family members are conservative or faint-hearted, this is not the place to come or bring families to. Perhaps other beaches like Marconi Beach in South Wellfleet are better for you. I have been there too, and from my observation, it has a more conservative atmosphere.

When we went to Herring Cove Beach in 2001, there wasn’t a cost to get in, but my partner said they do charge in the regular season. But she said you can buy a season pass. I think now a season pass is $45, and a day pass for a car is $15 and $3 daily for a person on a bike or pedestrian.

Both beaches have lifeguards, restrooms, and showers. And Herring Cove has a food stand.

I highly recommend going to the beaches in the Provincetown area if you are open-minded and want to enjoy great sightseeing, beachcombing, and swimming. Even the Travel Channel has designated that P-town has the best beaches in the Eastern Region.

On our trips in 2001 and 2003 to Provincetown, we decided to go to a nightclub called Vixen. It caters to gays and, specifically, lesbians. It is located in the downstairs of the hotel called Pilgrim House in the middle of Provincetown.

This is a club where you can your groove on. And it offers nightly events such as the DJ spinning '70s and '80s music for what is called "Flashback Wednesday Night", and sometimes it has live performers present (such as comedy acts and jazz and blues singers). Well-known comedians Margaret Cho and Kate Clinton have performed here. And a pop-jazz blues vocalist Suede has too.

When we were at Vixen, you entered the front door and saw nice white cane furniture, pool tables, and a bar. In addition, the room was tastefully decorated in pastel colors.

At night, Vixen opens the back bar and stage area (for some acts). Besides the bar, you will see the DJ booth and a small dance floor. When we were there, the walls were dark and there was a light show present for dancing. On that night, you could purchase light-up strings (glow-in-the-dark) which you could make bracelets and necklaces out of. Some people would dance to the music with these adorned on them.

This nightclub is always playing the most up-to-date music, unless it is an event night, like I have already mentioned. The dance floor is always crowded in the summer and during events like Women’s Week (it is a week where lesbians from all over the world come to celebrate). Therefore, you really need to come early to get in or get a seat, and if a performer or an event is happening, purchase tickets early. The cover to get in varies because of what is going on that particular night.

I highly recommend this nightclub for gay people (specifically lesbians) and also for gay-friendly people. Besides DJs spinning great music, having a variety of nightly events--and sometimes having live performers--Vixen provides an environment that has a diverse population that knows how to have fun.

The Pilgrim Monument is probably the most visible historic site in Provincetown. You really can’t miss it once you arrive. It sits on a hill. It is a 252-foot granite monument that commemorates the Pilgrims actual first landing in the New World.

You can view this historical site from afar and take pictures or muster up enough ambition to climb to the top (116 steps and 60 small ramps). If you do survive the winding walk, you will see the best views of Provincetown and the Atlantic Ocean.

In addition, the history of this place is worth inhaling. Not only does the monument give recognition to the Pilgrims actual first landing but it also recognizes the signing in the harbor of the Mayflower Compact. And a copy of this can be seen at the Provincetown Historic Museum.

Whether you tour this historical site or view it from afar, it is one site that you will never forget. And one you should share and explain the importance of to your younger family members—your children. Therefore, I highly recommend to everyone vacationing in Provincetown to see this historical site.

Don't Panic is one of my favorite stores to shop at in P-town. It is a very interesting store, but it is not for conservative people or the faint at heart. I guess I like to go to see how crude they can get with their T-shirt slogans. Don’t Panic has lots of raunchy-style shirts such as " Recovering -l-t" and some socks that say the "B" word on them. But this place also sells high quality sweatshirts that say more politically correct things like Provincetown Authentic Sportswear and Herring Cove Beach. In addition, it has a variety of rainbow items from refrigerator magnets to glasses. And the people that work here are always trying to engage in conversations with you about where you are from. They even give you valuable advice such as where locals eat, etc.

I also got some great baragins here too.The Don’t Panic store has wonderful savings (up to 75% off on selected items) in the off-season. I bought several pairs of socks and T-shirts for practically nothing. The athletic socks were originally $8 a pair, and I got them for $2 a pair, and the shirts were originally $15, and I got them for $3.25.

I highly recommend this place to shop for people who are liberal, have a sense of humor, are gay or gay-friendly.

Cabot’s Candy is the best candy in P-town. It is has been in business for 75 years. I always purchase my candies here. It has both taffy and fudge. I have purchased both. I like this store because you can pick what taffy you like (out of numerous flavors) and then be charged per pound. This is much better than getting taffy at discounted stores and receiving kinds you don’t even like. In addition, you don’t have to buy a pound of fudge, if you only want a ¼ pound. Along with this, the people that serve you are kind and polite. And they don’t rush you making your choices of candy. Lastly, in the same building (actually, you walk through Cabot’s, and you can enter a store that sells nautical items), you can buy nautical items. I purchased nautical items such as shells and a fish net for my nautical décor at home. The prices for the both Cabot’s candies and the nautical store are moderate.

Cabot's also sell jellies and popcorn. And you can even order their products by emailing them at cabcandy@capecod.net.

If you have a sweet tooth, this is the store I highly recommend for you.