Bummin Around Boulder

Boulder, commonly know as the people's Republic of Boulder or 27 square miles surrounded by reality, is home to the University of Colorado (CU) and Naropa University. According to legend, an Arapahoe Indian chief proclaimed that all those who set their eyes on this region are destined to return. This "curse" may be the reason many young travelers just passing through end up going home, packing up some belongings, and moving to Boulder or never going back home at all. Talk to any original hippie, and I guarantee he or she will have tales of time spent here... if they can remember! Boulder is home to a diverse, progressive, liberal, socially conscious society with a touch of pretension and affluence. Housing types run the gamut from downtown lofts to gloomy apartment buildings, colorful bungalows with Tibetan prayer flags drapped on the porch to restored Victorian mansions. It's divided into two blurring sections, the Pearl St. Mall area and the university district known as "The Hill". The crowded four-block pedestrian mall, lined with historic buildings, trendy shops, bars and restaurants for any budget, is a flurry of activity in all seasons. Be sure to explore the restaurants and stores on surrounding streets for more local options. South on Broadway leads to The Hill, covered with businesses geared for students, popular bars, and inexpensive restaurants. Always something to do here: art, music and beer festivals, kayak, bike and running races, hear live music, roller-blade, hike, join in on a protest, or stumble upon a drum circle in the park. You might just want to hang out on an overstuffed couch in a coffee shop, have a cocktail or local beer on a rooftop, and watch the sunset over the majestic Flatirons.

Quick Tips:

Pick up a copy of The Boulder Weekly for event listings and The Onion for a good laugh.

Best Way To Get Around:

Put on those Birkenstocks or hiking boots and hit the sidewalks. Rent a bike or rollerblades, as plenty of trails lead wherever you wish to go. The public bus system has extensive routes around town and even into the canyon. Shuttles service available to and from the airport. Best to have a car to tour homes on the northwest side or exploring the surrounding area.

For years, I have been curious about this hostel located in a residential neighborhood on The Hill. The friendly girl working this desk was willing to show us a dorm room and answered many questions.

The rambling structure is an old fraternity house, and it shows. The hallways are long and dimly lit, dingy and worn carpet covers all floors, and the odor of old beer and sweaty college guys seem to linger in the air. The dorms are segregated for males and females, each having three bunk beds and a closet. Private rooms are also available. There are shared bathrooms for most rooms, and linens are provided for a charge. I did not notice secure lockers, like those in most hostels, and forgot to ask. The downstairs living room has several couches and chairs, providing a gathering place for travelers to meet. Rates are $17 per night and $19 during the summer.

Most importantly, you must have a passport or an out-of-state driver's license. This policy is in place to prevent the hostel from becoming a halfway house for local hippies and transients. It is in a great location near the nightlife, a 10- to15-minute walk to downtown, and suggested only for budget and student travelers. During the summer, the hostel is usually full, so make reservations early.

A spontaneous jaunt down to Boulder provided a great opportunity to introduce my friend to Foolish Craig's. Not my first visit to the cozy, funky gastronomic delight nor will it be my last. Upon entering the multi-colored, brick walled cafe we followed the sign on the chalkboard and seated ourselves. Greeted immediately by one of the friendly, low-key waiters who delivered water and a promise of menus. Within two breaths, another server appeared with menus and took our drink order. The list of specials paper-clipped to the menu caught my eye and Crabcakes Benedict was the obvious choice for me. My companion agonized over the choices of crepes, sandwiches, salads and more. Finally, she settled on the chicken, spinach, red pepper, mushroom, and cheese crepe special. The short 10-minute wait for our entrees seemed like an eternity, watching the platters go by on the way to other diners. We passed the time gushing over the dinner menu and checking out the art on the walls. Our eye-appealing meals arrived both piled high with seasoned potatoes. The fantastic, fresh-made crabcakes topped with poached eggs and a light hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with paprika, proved to be a perfect choice for 2pm on a Sunday afternoon. Every other bite, we paused to say "YUM" or "try this". Deciding my dish would not travel well as leftovers, we both dove in to finish. Knowing we would have plenty of food, we chose not to order an appetizer. Calamari rings, Ahi tuna medallions, and especially the Brie with raspberry preserves, toasted almonds, and baguettes were hard to pass up. We had big dreams of splitting a dessert or fruit crepe, but that will have to wait until out next visit.

Locally owned by self-proclaimed fools Craig Moelis and Mitch Arden, the restaurant opened on April Fools Day 1998. According to their website, , "soups made fresh daily right here by the fool himself". They open daily at 8am to serve up a variety of crepes, nine creative concoctions ranging from tofu and veggies sauteed with peanut sauce to marinated chicken breast, pesto, sundried tomatoes, onions, and cheese. Omelets and other breakfast fare are available, $4.50-$7.50. Lunch is an extensive list of sandwiches and salads with plenty of vegetarian and meat options, $5.25-$7.90. Dinner features hearty crepes, pasta, chicken, steak dinner, and also sandwiches, $7-$16. Full bar, mimosas, bloody marys, wine, Sunshine Wheat and Fat Tire from New Belgium Brewing Company, and Old Chubb Ale on tap are available. Live music on some nights--acoustic, blugrass, jazz, and beyond. Acoustic blugrass jam every Monday night--bring your instrument and join in. Stop by and hang out with the fools for awhile, and you will not be disappointed.

Cosmo's Pizza on the Hill, near the university, serves up giant slices until 2:30am. Expect a line for that late-night craving after the bars close at 1am.

The Fox Theater is located in the heart of "The Hill" and features popular local and national acts of all types. Check out their website to see who's playing during your visit. Locals might snatch up tickets early for extremely popular bands, but you probably have a good chance of buying tickets on show day.

Hippies flock to this somewhat hectic brewery for healthy meals, late-night snacks, live music, and of course, the microbrews. Didn't stop in on this trip to Boulder, but if you are here and like beer, be sure to check it out.

The Sink has had a long and illustrious history situated on a corner in the university district. Primarily a bar; during the school year you will find the low-ceilinged, grafitti-covered rooms packed with students. Tables are covered with old local newspapers. The staff was in good spirits, bouncing around and singing to Talking Heads on the jukebox and willing to chat with us and answer questions. On this warm, lazy Sunday afternoon, the only occupied tables were on the sidewalk outside. The kitchen serves up burgers, chicken and pulled bbq pork sandwiches with all the fixins. Nightly drink specials, martinis, and local beers are on tap. Bring a pen and add your art or opinion to the wall.