Estes Park - Rocky Mountain Wonderland

Without a doubt, Rocky Mountain National Park is the raison d'etre for the town of Estes Park. The entrances to the park are only a few miles away from the center of town. Estes provides the logistics for the throngs of tourists who come to see some of the most beautiful scenery on earth; there are a myriad of dining and lodging options, as well as the requisite kitschy souvenir shops (not that there's anything wrong with a Colorado refrigerator magnet or an "I Heard the Elk Bugle" t-shirt!)

Estes is a great place to take the family, with lots to do when you’re not visiting the park. There are places to go horseback riding, pond trout fishing, paddleboat rental, and a great go-cart and giant slide amusement park! It is also a great place for a romantic get-away--the only city in the U.S. where more weddings are performed is Las Vegas! Colorado IS for lovers, after all! I can personally attest to that; my husband and I were married here in 2003 and come back every year for our anniversary, as well as a family trip and birthday weekend in the fall.

Every season here has its charms. The summer is most popular, with mild weather and often sunny skies, but crowded with visitors. The winter is beautiful; lots of snow activities (except downhill skiing) and exquisite views. Spring can be wet but wonderful, with everything in bloom. The autumn is my favorite time. I adore the unbelievable golden fall foliage and the elk mating season. There are many places in the park where you can watch the animals and listen to the unearthly sounds of elk "bugling." You have to hear it to believe it!

As busy as the town can be, you don’t have to travel far to find absolute peace and serenity. Estes will always remain one of my favorite travel destinations.

Quick Tips:

There is a large number of websites devoted to all the commercial options of Estes. One of the best is www.estes-park.com. Just Google Estes Park, and you'll find what you're looking for!

Best Way To Get Around:

A car is essential to see the town and get to the park, even if hiking is your main pursuit! I'm not aware of any public transportation options.

The Woodlands is a fairly new condo-like lodge with 16 one- and two-bedroom suites. The units are immaculately clean and modern. They are all equipped with a fully-stocked full-size kitchen, wood fireplace, balcony or patio, gas grill, and TV/VCR (a large selection of free movies are available at the front desk!). There is a small outdoor hot tub near the front desk, although I've seldom seen many guests using it. A small bundle of wood is provided upon check-in, with additional bundles available at the front desk for about $2.50. I would advise stocking up because it burns quickly and there's nothing like a wood fire to provide the perfect ambiance for a relaxing evening!

One of the best reasons for staying at the Woodlands is its beautiful location, right above the swiftly flowing Fall River. Guests can walk along the river's edge immediately in front of the buildings; in the fall, it is particularly scenic, bordered by many golden aspen trees. It is also convenient to the Fall River entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park and a few miles away from downtown Estes Park.

I found the rates to be very competitive, especially for all the amenities provided; the rates vary according to season, with summertime being the most expensive. Although children are permitted, I have seen very few and heard none in the four years we have been staying here! It is a quiet, peaceful, beautiful location to relax near the park, highly recommended for your next visit to Estes!

"Romantic" is the key word here--this is truly a great B&B for small weddings and honeymooners and certainly perfect for a couple to get away in any season! Riversong is a ten-room inn in an exquisite location, away from the center of Estes Park at the foot of Rocky Mountain National Park. Each room has a different décor, with evocative names such as "Indian Paintbrush," "Meadow Bright," and "Wood Nymph." All the rooms have romance-inspiring amenities such as jetted tubs, wood fireplaces, thick, cozy bathrobes, and very comfortable furnishings. There are often elk and deer who visit the grounds, even a bear or two have come calling! The owner, Gary, is licensed to perform weddings, either on-site or in a picturesque location nearby; he can even arrange a snowshoe ceremony in the winter! The staff will make you feel like one of the family without being intrusive. Their breakfasts are legendary, and you can even eat dinner there if reservations are made ahead of time. Romantic Riversong is a high-quality, memorable place to stay, certainly worth the price.

My husband and I eloped here in 2003 and were married in the room called "Forget-Me-Not," with a view that rivals any wedding venue! We have returned for our anniversaries and plan to go back every year, at least until we’ve stayed in every one of the rooms!

For our first anniversary dinner, we chose the upscale Twin Owls Steakhouse. It is a popular restaurant in Estes, and is part of the Black Canyon Inn not far from the center of town on MacGregor Avenue.

I love the location, which is perfectly described on their website. "The original log building, which now houses the restaurant, was built in 1927 as the private home of the Stacey family. This rustic, yet romantic, log building features a floor to ceiling moss rock fireplace, a high beamed ceiling, balcony off of the loft and the original oak floors." We were seated near the fireplace, which gave off a cozy feel on that cold February evening. The atmosphere is elegant and subdued without being pretentious.

The menu at Twin Owls is a wonderful selection of beef dishes, as well as game, chicken and pasta. I am very fond of elk, and their presentation did not disappoint! The small elk loin chops were walnut crusted, topped with a berry harvest pesto. The sweetness of the fruit was a perfect compliment to the hearty flavor of the meat – outstanding! Predictably, my husband had a steak and sautéed mushrooms, which he declared to be one the best he’s had! The wine selection is extensive, and our waiter suggested a wonderful California vineyard that we had never tried, but which went so well with our entrees.

Our meal was about $100, a special treat that was worth it, given the quality of the food, service, and ambience.

Nicky’s is what I call a dependable restaurant. We’ve eaten there often because it’s close to downtown Estes, and on the way home from Rocky Mountain National Park. The food isn’t gourmet, but it’s always been good. The menu is quite extensive and there are both casual and more elegant dining options. The prices are mid-range, but generally it’s a good value for the money.

The Garden Room at Nicky’s, in the front of the building, is casual and family-friendly. The menu ranges from steak and seafood to sandwiches and salads. Nicky’s Steakhouse is the "white tablecloth" section, with a lovely view of Fall River and a large stone fireplace. The menu is a predictable mix of steaks, chicken, and seafood, along with some Italian dishes. It can be crowded on weekends, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation. On one visit, the waitstaff seemed overextended and long delays were encountered, but they are generally friendly and helpful.

There is also an outdoor patio and a cozy bar for cocktails. Nicky’s is open for breakfast, and stays open until 10pm in the summer. If you need a restaurant with something to appeal to everyone, I would recommend Nicky’s.

This restaurant is known as where the locals go for breakfast and lunch. It's in the strip mall next to Safeway, so it doesn't have the benefit of a central location of many other popular establishments, although plenty of free parking is a draw! The decor is mom-and-pop diner, with crafts and photographs on the wall and unremarkable tables and booths in a brightly lit space. They also have a small outdoor patio that overlooks the parking lot for warm-weather dining. They serve breakfast and lunch all day until 2:30pm (no dinner service).

We arrived around 10am on a snowy Columbus Day Monday and were surprised at the crowd; the hostess explained that because they never usually have such traffic on a weekday, they only had one waitress for the entire restaurant (about 15 tables). We weren’t in a hurry and agreed to be patient with the service. The waitress was friendly and apologetic and the wait to get coffee and our orders was not unduly long.

The Mountain Home Cafe menu has extensive menu with standard breakfast and lunch fare. Fruity pancakes are popular, as is their famous Baked Alaska Oatmeal. Unfortunately, my meal selection wasn't as tasty as many of the other ones sounded! I ordered a veggie scramble (no further description), which seemed harmless enough, as well as healthy. Yuck! I expected the vegetables to be onions, peppers, and tomatoes, things one would normally find in an omelet. What I got was chewy carrots, pea pods, and zucchini (I assume from a frozen mixture) tossed into scrambled eggs! I was able to separate the vegetables from the egg and have enough to eat, but given the service situation, I didn’t want to complain. My bad, I guess, for not confirming what was in the dish! My husband had pancakes and sausage and enjoyed every bite!

The prices seem to be on par with other tourist breakfast spots; both our meals were $5.99 apiece, totaling $17, including coffee, tea, and juice. The portions were generous and came with sides like hash browns and toast, so it's not a bad value. Although I didn't have good luck with my order, I would try them again and make sure I asked about what goes into the dish if I'm not sure!

This is a tiny gem of a restaurant located front and center as you enter Estes Park. It only has about a dozen tables in a small room, but the food more than makes up for any lack of luxurious surroundings!

The food here is Italian home-style. The portions are generous and the ingredients are fresh and very tasty. For such a small place, the menu is long and contains all the traditional Italian favorites: pasta, chicken and veal, antipasto, and desserts. The prices are very reasonable, about $11 to $18. They have a limited but well-priced wine list, either by the bottle or glass.

I tried the chicken Florentine, which consisted of two pieces of breaded chicken breast topped with spinach and mozzarella with a lemon-wine sauce. The chicken was moist and tender and there was a lot of spinach, which I love. It came with a small side of spaghetti and the choice of salad or soup. I chose the minestrone, which was the only part of the meal I wasn’t thrilled with; I don’t think the soup had simmered long enough, because the vegetables were a little too firm for my taste. My husband tried the veal parmesan, which he really liked. The marinara used in this recipe was very fresh and a little spicy. We also shared a tiramisu for dessert. That was fabulous, piled high with whipped cream, my favorite!

Sweet Basilico is a popular restaurant, which makes it hard to get a table on a weekend, especially since they do not take reservations. They do, however, offer takeout and even have a drive-up window if you call your order in ahead. For Italian-food lovers, it is certainly worth the wait!

One of the best things about RMNP is the abundance of great hiking trails of all different difficulties; everyone can enjoy the awesome vistas without having to be a mountain-climber! I may not be the fittest woman to go on a hike, but I want to view more than what one can see at the scenic overlooks in the park. My research pointed to a hike to The Loch, a lake 2.7 miles from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. The elevation gain is 940 feet, which indicates a moderate uphill climb. The description of the hike specified incredible views, which made me eager to try it!

The weather was perfect for early October, with brilliant skies and warm sun. It was crowded on the trail, particularly to the first landmark, Alberta Falls, only .6 miles away. When you get close to the falls, you can hear the roar of the water first, before you see it. We came around a bend and scrambled up some huge boulders to get a view. It’s not a large waterfall, but more of a length of steep rocks with water flowing swiftly over it. Many visitors were sitting around, and some were attempting to get across the torrent by jumping from rock and rock. At this point, the elevation was high enough to get a great view across the valley, which was incredibly beautiful on this bright day.

After a short rest, we continued upwards. The elevation gain was more noticeable and I was sucking wind! Although I am used to the altitude of Denver, the trail is between 9,000 and 10,000 feet. "Flatlanders" should allow several days to become acclimated before attempting any strenuous hikes in order not to succumb to altitude sickness.

After walking through the trees, we emerged onto a stretch of the trail along a high rocky ledge. The scenery was becoming more dramatic and the surrounding mountain peaks appeared to be closer. I wondered how far away we had to go, since I was very ready for a good sit! We trudged on, encountering a very steep switchback section, with rock "stairs." I was beginning to grumble and my legs were protesting at every high step. My husband, the mountain goat that he is, encouraged me with the promise that it wasn’t much further. I persevered; once I got to the top of the stairs, our goal was sight. And what a sight… a pristine high mountain lake, surrounded by snow-brushed craggy peaks. Wow! I sprawled on a boulder at the lake’s edge and felt much rewarded for making it. The silence was broken only by bird calls and the wind in the trees. No question, it was worth the effort.

After a rest, we headed down the trail. The thought of the hot tub back at our hotel was incentive not to slow down! We took about four hours to make the roundtrip, an excellent afternoon’s trek. If you’re up for a moderate hike, I highly recommend it.

Snowshoeing is an incredibly fun winter sport that requires absolutely no advance training, and the equipment is very cheap to rent ($10/day). The saying goes, "If you can walk, you can snowshoe; if you snowshoe 50 yards, you’re an expert!" Basically, if you’re in shape enough to hike a few miles, you can certainly enjoy snowshoeing.

I was thrilled to discover that the park rangers lead a free beginner’s snowshoe tour on winter weekends at Bear Lake, a very popular hiking destination in Rocky Mountain National Park. You do need to call a week in advance to make a reservation due to the popularity of the tour. As my husband and I were driving towards Bear Lake in late February, we were a little skeptical as to whether we’d be able to snowshoe due to the lack of snow along the road (it had been a warm and dry winter). Nevertheless, as we pulled into the parking lot, we were relieved to see that this area of the park had abundant snow.

We joined a group of about 30 people and the easy-to-identify park ranger with her green outfit and Smokey the Bear hat! She began the tour by asking everyone where they were from; some had come all the way from Europe for our tour! She asked everyone to name a different animal that might live in the park, giving a brief explanation of the animal’s habitat and whether we might see them or their tracks during our tour.

Many people in our group had never been on snowshoes, but it didn’t take long for us to start off, following the ranger like a mother duck and her chicks! She stopped frequently to explain things about our surroundings, especially to point out animal tracks. We then began a long climb on a trail towards Nymph Lake. When we arrived, it was hard to tell that a lake was under the snow, but we were assured that it was frozen solid! For those in better shape than I was, a snowshoe race across the small lake was arranged. About half of the group dashed in their cumbersome snowshoes, snow flying everywhere! We then leisurely walked through the woods, enjoying the beautiful winter scenery. The tour is short, only about an hour, leaving plenty of time to venture off on your own to other areas of the park. It was really a great experience and introduction to snowshoeing.

I’m married to a Canadian (the best man in North America, eh?), a beer-loving Canadian. Therefore, on our first visit to Estes Park, he was delighted to find that there is a brewpub in wilds of the Rocky Mountains. We’ve established a tradition that it is always our first stop upon arriving in town.

Estes Park Brewery is in a large white building that is hard to miss driving up Moraine Avenue, just past the go-cart park! The restaurant and bar are upstairs in a large, open room. Along one side of the room are windows that overlook the brewery room below, with huge metal tanks to hold the different beers. The menu is composed of basic bar food, such as burgers, pizza, and appetizers. They also have an excellent garden burger, which I love. It has a good menu for lunch, the food is reasonably priced, and families are welcome.

In addition to seasonal specials, there are six beers normally offered by Estes Park Brewery, with names to match the location, such as Trail Ridge Red; Long’s Peak Raspberry Red; and my favorite, Staggering Elk Lager! The downstairs area contains the gift shop and a tasting counter where visitors can sample the various brews. My favorite flavor is Stinger Wild Honey Wheat, which has a higher alcohol content due to the yeast fermenting the honey… yum (hic!) The beer is sold by the bottle, so you can mix-and-match a six-pack or case. We always get a supply for our stay to enhance our Rocky Mountain sunsets from the comfort of our deck (but remember, the elk get mad if you drink and drive, since the elk DO own the road up here!).