The Slow Life in Maui

The best thing to do in Hana is just be. The world will take care of the action if you allow it to. We stayed at an inn with around 10 rooms and suites, but felt like we were alone. Each day in Hana must begin with a breakfast consisting of pineapple juice and guava juice, along with whatever fresh fruit is available. You will not get tired of eating pineapple. We quickly developed a taste for coconut candy, sold at roadside stands, as a mid-morning treat. It looks like wood chips but tastes like heaven.

When you are in Hana and are looking for something to do, get in your car and drive. Stop anywhere that looks interesting. There are dozens of waterfalls, and the hikes of varying distances are exhilarating. The birds and flowers seem to have escaped Eden. There is no one place you have to see, though the National Park at O'heo Gulch would be that place if there were one. Blue Pool provided us with the waterfall picture that makes everyone most jealous. You should, and will, discover your own favorites in addition to these obvious examples of why Hana, the road to Hana (and past it), and the rainy side of the island constitute the reason to go to Maui. And to return.

Quick Tips:

It will rain. Get over it. There will also be some sunshine, but not enough to burn. Rent a convertible, put the top down when you can--for the smells if nothing else--and don't get in a hurry. Pull over and let faster drivers pass.

There is one great meal on this side of the island after you pass Paia (if you are a Willie Nelson fan, stop at Charley's there). It is at the Hotel Hana Maui, and it’s fantastic. Eat there every night if you can afford the to per person average. Also, make time to go to Mama's at the beginning of the Road to Hana. Otherwise, picnic a lot.

Bring your own snorkel gear--you may want to pull over and dive in sometimes, as we did--and some tabbies for your feet. And sneakers you can leave in the garbage before packing to go home.

Vitally important tip! Buy the Ultimate Guide to Maui--it's a Blue Trade paperback. This is all you need to find more than you imagined when seeing the sites. But don't rely on their restaurant picks.

Best Way To Get Around:

Rent that convertible and carry good shoes for hiking over wet terrain. The best waterfalls must be hiked to. The best red-sand beach is a short but dicey walk along a cliff. You are going to want to see what's around the next corner, whether you are driving or walking.

We ate here twice, and our budget kept us away on the other nights we were in Hana. The service and atmosphere were just right. There is an Asian/Polynesian vibe, and the food choices were varied enough to satisfy the palates of a carnivore and a vegetarian. The desserts were especially good, and I'll never forget their banana splits with homemade ice cream, sautéed bananas and fresh fruit, and macadamia toppings. Skip their luaus, unless you'd like to see an amateur production featuring lots of really cute school-age kids.

The most spectacular restaurant view on the island is at Mama's, and so is one of the best fish dinners I've ever eaten. The place will be crowded, mostly with families and honeymooners, but if you have to wait, wait. Take a few pictures and walk out to the ocean.

I grew up on the Gulf Coast and am very particular about seafood. One of my favorites has always been what we call dolphin fish. In Hawaii, it’s mahi-mahi. Despite my seafood parochialism, I must confess that what I ate at Mama's deserved its more exotic local moniker. The service was slow, but that seemed like an advantage at our open-air table, looking out at the sea and the stars. I even got to meet "Mama," who took our photo and confirmed my suspicion that they buy their fish right off the charter boats and get it on the tables the same day.

You will hear that everything, especially food, is more expensive in Hawaii. We didn't find this to be necessarily true, and I estimate expenses at around 10% higher than at home in Mississippi.

We heard the people in Hawaii were fantastic. We found this true at the restaurants and resorts. We found the opposite from locals who were not directly benefiting from our dollars. But I couldn't blame them sometimes. Don't tailgate or hold up traffic, and for pete's sake, don't park in someone's yard on your way to Blue Pool. And don't go to Hana and complain about the weather or the roads. Both of these conditions keep the place a true paradise.

You will hear that you must get up one morning at 3am and drive to the summit of Haleakala. Well... you must. Bring a coat and a blanket. And a camera.