Magical Venice

It's hard to believe, but our family of four (kids ages 11 and 14) got a wonderful taste of Venice in a little more than 24 hours. Of course, we would have loved to stay longer, but we chose activities that gave us a great sense of the city, so we left fairly satisfied.

We stayed at a beautiful, centrally located hotel and had a lot of fun strolling through Venice's narrow pedestrian alleyways. Highlights included an unforgettable gondola ride at dusk, staying at the Westin Europa Regina, delicious meals, and the view from the campanile in St. Mark's Square.

Quick Tips:

Walk... walk... and walk some more. Venice is like an outdoor museum. Allow yourself to get a little lost, or perhaps I should say, you probably will get lost, so don't get frustrated. Enjoy it and soak it all in. Even with a map, the streets are narrow and twisty, and they don't always have names posted. This is part of the charm and the fun of exploring Venice.

Best Way To Get Around:

Just walking around on your own two feet is free entertainment. However, you can't walk everywhere... and nothing is cheap in Venice. Even taking the vaporetto (public water bus) to a nearby neighborhood for dinner cost us 16 euro one-way for the four of us. (We walked back to our hotel!) The water taxi from the train station to the hotel was about 50 euros--definitely a splurge, but worth it considering the convenience and ease of not lugging your luggage on a crowded vaporetto and through narrow streets to get to your hotel, which may not be easy to find. So while you're in Venice, try not to count and worry about your euros too much if you can help it. It's an expensive city, but one unlike any in the world... so splurge a bit. Who knows when or if you'll ever be back?!

Staying at the Westin Europa and Regina was everything we ever dreamed that Venice could be. First of all, it is right on the Grand Canal. If you don't mind a splurge, you can take a water taxi directly to the hotel, or (if you don't mind lugging your luggage through Venice's narrow alleys and want to save a few euros) take the vaporetto to the stop about 2 blocks away.

The service from the moment we arrived was outstanding. We were given adjoining rooms on the 2nd floor overlooking the Grand Canal. (We are a family of four, and it is nearly impossible to get a room for four in Italy!) If you can, ask for these rooms--105 and 106! The rooms were so big (a shock for Europe!) and so gorgeous that you could have been very happy staying there and never leaving. We opened the windows and heard singing gondoliers passing by during the day and early evening. At night, Italian opera music wafted through the air from the cafe below. The view alone from our rooms was a feast for the eyes.

But don't forget, Venice is a beautiful city. You must tear yourself away from this hotel, and the Westin's location (aside from being on the Grand Canal) is perfect. It is a 5-minute walk to St. Mark's Square, a 2-minute walk from the main gondola station, and a 10-minute walk (if you don't get lost) to the Rialto Bridge. We also had breakfast on the terrace, which was VERY overpriced (I think it was about 20 euros per person!), but the atmosphere overlooking the water and passing morning boats was worth every euro. Some people seem to get breakfast included in their hotel stay, but we stayed for free on our Starwood points and had to pay the big bucks for breakfast.

This is an unforgettable hotel in an unforgettable city. You won't be disappointed!

Several friends recommended this restaurant to us, and we tried it for lunch without reservations. We were warmly welcomed, and although the atmosphere was a bit bright and cheesy, we LOVED everything we put into our mouths. The pastas were all divine, and the caprese salad was heavenly. The house wine was delicious, as well. It was our first meal in Italy, and we will definitely eat there again.

We had a lovely dinner at Osteria de Franz while exploring the beautiful Castillo area of Venice. The walk to the canalside restaurant from the vaporetto stop is lots of fun, because you feel as if you're walking through a residential neighborhood instead of one of the most tourist-filled cities in the world! They were not ready for us at the time of our 10pm reservation, so they gave us some champagne and appetizers while we waited. The service was very friendly, and we ate under the moonlight overlooking a lovely canal! The food was absolutely delicious, although the portions were not generous. Afterwards, we walked all the way back to St. Mark's Square along the Grand Canal. The moonlight on the water, the music playing from the cafes, and the lights of St. Mark's Square ahead made this dining experience a feast for all the senses.

A gondola ride in Venice... Sounds like an overpriced tourist trap, I know. We almost didn't do it after we asked the price, but luckily came back later thinking this might be a once-in-a-lifetime experience and that we'd be filled with regret when back in Los Angeles. Boy, were we glad we did!

You can get started behind the Bauer Hotel, near St. Mark's Square. The gondoliers hang out there, waiting for customers. Our timing was perfect. The sun setting cast a beautiful light on the water and pastel-colored building around us. Our photographs were amazing!

Our gondolier was friendly, informative, and funny. Although he didn't "sing" for us, he gave us so much interesting historical information about the city, that we felt like we were getting a private tour guide in addition to the beautiful ride. He also gave each of our children (11 and 14) a chance to stand, hold the oar, and steer the gondola!

Although the Grand Canal is gorgeous, the best part is going down narrow canals and seeing everyday people's apartments and homes. Even seeing the Opera House and imagining that people actually go to the Opera by boat is amazing! If you don't like doing tourist things--get over it this once! You will not regret or forget a gondola ride through Venice's breathtaking canals.

Sure, there's no doubt you'll end up in St. Mark's Square while in Venice. And, yes, it's even more beautiful in person than it is in all the books. But if you're like us and you don't have a lot of time, there are three things you must do.

First of all, buy some food and feed the pigeons. You won't be able to help giggling as the birds swarm around you! (It's also probably the cheapest thing you'll do during your stay!)

Second, take the elevator to the top of the campanille. The view is AMAZING! You get a 360-degree view of the tiled rooftops and intricate canal system of Venice, as well as the surrounding sea and islands. It's a great place to take a breather and take it all in. It's also a great way to START your visit and exporation of Venice because it gives you a wonderful perspective of the city's layout.

Third, come back at night, when the orchestras are playing, and have some gelato. Truly, you will feel like you are in heaven. It's pure magic!

Certainly, on every vacation, you can't do everything. We chose do skip the Doge's Palace, although we did get an inside peek of beautiful St. Mark's Basilica. If you have time, go in the morning because the line won't be as long and you won't get as hot dressing appropriately. They are very strict--knees and shoulders MUST be covered or they turn you away, even if you've been standing in the long line.

A great thing to do in Venice is take some time to veer away from the crowds and tourists and enjoy a local neighborhood. The Castillo area is a popular site to expore due to its wonderful "local" ambience despite its close proximity to St. Mark's Square.

We took a vaporetto from St. Mark's to the Castillo area at dusk and enjoyed walking down the canals. It was wonderful to see ladies hanging their laundry on clostheslines, young people cruising on their boats on their way out on the town, and local kids running around the corners laughing.

We had a delicious dinner at Osteria de Franz (see separate entry), and then enjoyed a 30-minute walk back to our hotel, which was 5 minutes past St. Mark's Square. (We saved 16 euros by not taking the vaporetto back!)