Kauai – New Finds and Old Favorites

Our last trip to Kauai was 2 years after the devastating hurricane Iniki. We were greatly impressed with how roads had been repaired and structures repaired or rebuilt. And we were astounded at how fast the vegetation had rebounded. That was 1994. This trip, we were amazed at how the roads had fallen into such disrepair. Two of the islands biggest tourist draws have to be the end of the road on the North Shore (Haena State Park) and (Highway 550) Kalalau Lookout. Both roads worsened as we drew near the end, and potholes the size of Mini Coopers created an unsafe and uncomfortable drive. On the North Shore we encountered a road closure with no early warning to allow us to turn around safely. I do not think has been spent on maintaining those roads since the Iniki cleanup. Since we had been looking forward to seeing these spectacular views, we were greatly disappointed.

Those two disappointments didn’t ruin the whole trip. We took a helicopter tour that provided us with a wealth of scenery, oohs and ahs, and "oh, wows."

We revisited two diverse favorite restaurants: the elegant Gaylord’s and the brash Bubba Burgers. A locals favorite, Wailua Family Restaurant, was a new choice for us and provide an inexpensive full meal.

One of my favorite Hawaiian shopping experiences is the Kapaia Stitchery in Lihue about a block west of the turnoff to Wailua Falls on Highway 50. They have, by far, the largest selection of batik print fabrics I have ever seen. They also have quilt patterns in traditional and contemporary Hawaiian style. I paid bargain prices for boxes of note cards with Hawaiian designs.

We found a beautiful garden tour, Na Aina Kai. We revisited waterfalls, parks, shops, and the oldest Lutheran Church in Hawaii.

And we enjoyed a touch of Polynesian paralysis at our comfortable timeshare, PAHIO Kauai Beach Villas.

Quick Tips:

Traffic becomes congested from Lihue to Kapa’a Road during the morning and late afternoon rush. Plan your trips to avoid those timeslots. Stop at overlooks, as they built them for a reason - there is usually a pretty spectacular view.

Best Way To Get Around:

Rent a car. There is an expensive alternative: go by helicopter.

Best Things Nearby:
Kilohana with Gaylord’s Restaurant, Kapaia Stitchery, Kauai Museum, and the Hawaii’s oldest Lutheran Church in Lihue all are worth a visit. See Wailua Falls, Opaekaa Falls, and Lydgate State Park. For food and shopping needs, go to The Market Place, Safeway Plaza, and the Foodland Plaza located between Wailua and Kapa’a.

Best Things About the Resort:
The resort location is the best advantage, as it is close to shops and restaurants in Lihue and Kapa’a and halfway between the two major Kauai day trips. We enjoyed the ducks and other birds that patrolled the lawn, lanais, and lagoon. The quiet setting was agreeable to us. Beach benches were the perfect place to sit and watch the dramatic ocean waves or to swivel around and watch the torch-lighting ceremony.

Resort Experience:
We knew from the lovely tree over the entrance drive that this place pays attention to details. Our two-bedroom garden view unit was spacious and comfortably furnished and equipped. The grounds were well maintained, and parking was never a problem. We did find it was easier to drive to a public beach than make the long walk to the one on the property. One problem was that car headlights shined through our first-floor bedroom curtains - so much for privacy or trying to sleep.

• Unit Type: 2 Bedroom
• Activities: Good
• Amenities: Good
• Unit Satisfaction: Excellent
• Family Friendliness: Very Good
• Service: Very Good

Gaylords at Kilohana is by far the best restaurant on the island. This elegant estate home belonged to Gaylord Wilcox during the height of the sugar cane years. The restaurant has ambience and an excellent lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch menu. Local ingredients enhance standard items, and the chef comes up with some imaginative offerings, too. Be sure to ask for the dessert menu! Prices in the evening are high, so we often go for lunch to get an equally exquisite meal for fewer traveler’s checks!

To top off a good meal, stroll through the shops tucked into former bedrooms, baths, and the plantation office. I always find a treasure there. Take a peek into the living room to get an idea about what elegant plantation life was like.

Kauai is blessed with several gardens to tour. We selected Na Aina Kai for two reasons. First, in addition to the botanicals, this garden features about 60 large bronze sculptures. Second, this garden offered a tram tour. The other gardens were primarily very long walks. Since I am now dealing with a mobility issue, we chose the tram tour.

Na Aina Kai is located on the North Shore of Kauai near Kilauea. Driving north from Lihue, look for Mile Marker 21 and then take the first right turn onto Wailapa Road. At the end of that road, enter through the iron gate.

A docent drives the tour tram to the formal gardens, where we entered on foot and walked short distances. During the rest of the tour, he would stop at points of interest and anyone could get off the tram for a closer look or to take photographs. This 2-hour tour had many stops, because there was an incredible variety of plants and trees. They ranged from carnivorous plants in the bog house to orchids, cacti, palms, eucalyptus varieties, ixora, ginger, hibiscus, African tulip trees, angel’s trumpet, bottlebrush, heliconia, spider lily, bougainvillea, bamboo, kukui, and breadfruit - and that is only a small part of the gardens.

However, it was the sculptures that brought the most comments from the tour group. Carefully selected and positioned in the garden, these large bronze pieces have a Norman Rockwell flavor. Many have a sense of humor to them, such as the kids getting a cat out of tree, or the fountain called "Hog Wash." Many are very sentimental, such as the elderly couple sitting on a park bench, or the grandfather-granddaughter playing checkers. My absolute favorite was a young woman on a swing. That sculpture was supported by one of her feet touching the ground and part of her skirt trailing to the ground.

In addition to the formal and informal gardens, several stands of hardwood trees (primarily teak and mahogany) have been planted. They can be harvested after 40 years of growth, and the profit will support the garden.

Our tour included a ride out to the point, where we had a lovely view of the ocean and valley below. This area and the former home of the owner are often used for weddings and other special events.

In Lihue, turn off Highway 50 at the Kamehameha historical marker onto Hoomana to find this historical site. This old Lutheran Church was built in 1883, when German immigrants arrived to work in the sugar industry. Historically, it is worth a drive by to admire the old building and look inside to admire the architecture. Some say it has New England influences; others say it reflects ships structure that brought the immigrants here. To really get the full experience, attend a Sunday service (8am and 10:30 am). You will experience the true Aloha spirit there. Visitors are not only welcome to attend, they are celebrated.

The concierge at our hotel helped us select the helicopter tour company. There are many to choose from, with different features. For example, there is a "doors-off" flight that is great for photographers, but not so good for the timid.

Our tour started at the Aloha Cove Heli-USA center. A safety orientation video was shown. We were transported by van to the heli-port section of the Lihue airport. The staff was very good about answering questions about the flight and Kauai in general.

Our flight lasted about an hour. The pilot narrated the flight and explained about the points of the flight when he had to make safety reports. There were at least two places where we had to wait for another helicopter to clear the area before we could enter. He answered all our questions and inserted a little humor, too.

One area we flew over had the remains of a dense forest that had been leveled by Hurricane Iniki. All the trees were downed and lined up in the same direction. He also pointed out all the now-fallow sugar cane fields. This rich agricultural land could become truck farms to supply the island’s needs. Major highlights of the flight included Waimea Canyon; the Jurassic Park waterfall; the razor-sharp ridges of Na Pali, a remote valley that supported a population of 5,000 in ancient times; more waterfalls; Alakai Swamp, which has the highest elevation for a swamp in the world; the cultivated fields of Hanalei Valley; and the Mt. Waiale’ale crater, which is the wettest spot on earth. We didn’t attempt to take a camera along. I didn’t want to view this by looking at an LED monitor. Instead, I found postcards with good pictures to put in our memory book.

Waterfalls, helicopters, and gardens: that is what Kauai is good at.

Wailua Falls is a favorite with tourists and artists. Often you will find an easel set up near the falls’ overlook and an artist selling completed works out of his trunk or pick-up bed. The road to the falls (Highway 583) deteriorates as you reach the end, but the view is worth the trip. Opaekaa Falls is on a good road, but it is easy to zip by the parking lot. You may have to turn around in a residential area and return. In Hanalei, ignore the shops and look to the south side of the road at the cliffs. We counted 14 waterfalls one day, and a local told us he has seen 21.

Helicopters are overhead during most of the daylight hours. Their popularity created a growth surge that also led to some fatal accidents. Now more safety measures are in place.

Gardens tours are available both privately owned and nationally controlled. In addition, stuff grows everywhere! A stop at Borders to pick up flower, plant, and tree guidebooks is well worth the expense. And observe the birds. Jungle fowl are everywhere. Before Iniki, they primarily were located in the high region around Kokee State Park, but the storm relocated them. The locals don’t consider them a pest, as the locals in Key West do; they just don’t encourage feeding them.