Under the Spell of Charleston

There is no way I could ever outline the "best things to do" in Charleston in 400 words or less. There is so much to offer in this delectable city that I would say that whatever you might be looking for, you will probably find here. Each new discovery that was made just by venturing around that next corner constituted a memorable moment for me.

Quick Tips:

The best tip I could make is to head straight for the visitor center (see my entry about this).

Best Way To Get Around:

To me, the best way to experience the city of Charleston is by getting out there and exploring. The weather is normally very mild and the locals are friendly, and you will see, hear, smell, and feel much more this way than if you are just peering through the window of your car. Because you are moving more slowly this way, you will be able to notice details and hidden features, such as the many porches and courtyards of the homes and businesses you will pass as you go along.

In order to save money for other things, my daughter and I opted to stay in a nice motel rather than a more luxurious but costly inn or bed-and-breakfast right in Charleston. This three-story Best Western in Mount Pleasant was less than 2 miles from the heart of town, reached by traversing the Cooper River Bridge (an adventure in itself), and had everything we desired for our restful evenings. It was very clean, quiet, and tastefully decorated.

The staff was quite helpful and polite, and there was a computer available for our use right next to the front desk. Each morning there was a deluxe continental breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, bagels, muffins, cereal and milk, juice, and coffee waiting for us to serve ourselves in a small dining room off the lobby--free to guests. And afternoons, when we returned after a busy day of sightseeing, there might be a case of cookies, ours for the taking. The room had cable TV; an iron/ironing board; a hair dryer; our own coffee pot; and of course, two medium-firm queen-size beds with fresh, white linens. We were too busy experiencing Charleston to enjoy the pool, but there was an outdoor one on the premises.

For our stay in April, the price was $80, plus tax, per night ($76 for seniors or with a AAA discount), but rates go up on weekends to $98/$93.

We went to California Dreaming on a weekday early in the evening. We got seated right in front of one of the huge picture windows overlooking the Ashley River (though, actually, every table has a good view). Soon afterwards, a busload of people arrived, but even then it didn't feel crowded in this airy, spacious restaurant, and the service didn't seem to suffer from their added presence.

I would recommend the California Dreaming salad ($8), consisting of greens, cheeses, almonds, tomatoes, bacon, ham, and chopped eggs (which I would have omitted). They also offer steaks, seafood (the Cajun-crusted tilapia was good), chicken, sandwiches, and burgers. Top it all off with a nice slice of key lime pie.

Also, by bringing in their flier, which we discovered at the Charleston Visitor Center, the waitress brought us a nice free basket of their lovely honey croissants (a $4 value).

One word to the wise: If you would like to check out this restaurant, before you leave your home or hotel, plug the address into Mapquest for directions, as it is rather tricky to find.

The ambience and service in this fine restaurant, located between Queen and Cumberland Streets, were excellent. We opted to sit inside by one of the picture windows that overlooked the courtyard (another seating option). Fresh, local seafood and regional produce are featured, with fresh pasta and bread. Desserts are made in house.

I chose a wood-fired tomato and fresh mozzarella pizza with parmesan and fresh basil baked over the open fire right in the restaurant. To accompany it, I had a salad of mixed field greens, golden raisins, toasted almonds, and goat cheese topped with a blood-orange vinaigrette. Everything was superb, especially the dessert - milk chocolate creme brulee.

Sticky Fingers is a Memphis-based chain, I know, but my daughter and I just loved this place, situated in the heart of historic downtown Charleston. From the moment we entered the light, airy, and pub-like interior, we were treated as welcomed guests by the entire staff. Even though the place was positively bustling with activity, everyone was smiling, anxious to please, and so polite. Being surrounded with such an upbeat mood makes enjoyment of the meal automatic.

And the ribs!! My Carolina Sweet ribs ($12) were SOOO succulent and flavorful--I had to savor every last morsel! For dessert, by surrendering a coupon we clipped from a souvenir map, we were treated to free helpings of their peach cobbler, which we rated only mediocre.

If I had it to do over, I would have substituted instead their Savannah Dip, which consists of spinach, artichoke hearts, and melted mozzarella, served piping hot with tortilla chips and salsa. Some day I'll go back and experience some of that.

Before leaving, we purchased souvenir T-shirts from their generous assortment, plus a couple of pilsner glasses with the Sticky Fingers logo on them.

I would describe this tiny spot, located around the corner from the Visitor's Center off of Meeting Street, as one of those spur-of-the-moment experiences that can truly enhance a grueling day of serious sight-seeing. The primary offering here is gelato--a cold, creamy confection that is lighter and softer than ordinary ice cream--made fresh daily right in the back of the store. Twelve of the 62 possible flavors are offered each day. Paolo's gelato is made from fresh ingredients and natural flavors--some sugar-free--and vegetable fat. The charming hostess will serve it in your choice of cup (edible or paper) or cone (regular or waffle). Rose was the flavor I chose, because I didn't think I would have that opportunity again soon, and I did not regret it! The sensation of that exotic flavor melting on my tongue is an experience I will not soon forget.

Other authentic Italian treats are offered here, including biscotti, tiramisu, and a delicious-sounding delicacy called foccacina (gelato sandwiched between two halves of a warm, buttery croissant). Also, they've got coffees and Italian sodas.

What a great place to treat your family or to bring your date after the show!

The Original Charleston Walks is one of a number of companies that offer walking tours of Charleston. Its office is situated in back of a narrow courtyard between two buildings at 58 ½ Broad Street, and tickets can be purchased there or at the visitor center. Or, if you are planning in advance and want to save a few bucks, you can get a discount by purchasing them online through their website.

The tours, which include a Civil War tour and a Historic Homes walk (among others), depart from the Broad Street entrance to Washington Park.

Purely out of curiosity, I decided to try out their Ghosts and Legends of Charleston tour. About a dozen of us met at 7:30 in the evening, and a pleasant lady led us on a 1.25-mile trek up and down streets and alleys I never would have known existed, all the while regaling us with fascinating tales of ghost sightings by people long since departed, but that took place right where we were standing. As darkness descended upon us, that prickly, eerie feeling began to softly go up and down our spines as we heard about graveyard hauntings and former residents of certain structures. You had to be there to experience it. Even if you don’t believe in such things, you should try a ghost walk just for the entertainment value!

Charleston’s size does not make it difficult for the visitor to navigate its streets. For the most part, I had no problem locating the restaurants, shops, parks and other sights I wanted to see. Parking your car right next to each place of interest might, however, pose a problem. To me, it makes much more sense to plan your day ahead of time, locating a place to park that is central to your targeted interests.

Early in the day, you might just be lucky enough to find a parking space right where you need it. The only problem is, there will probably be a meter by it, which you will have to worry about feeding every hour or two (depending on how long you wish to be away from your car). There are many multi-level parking garages strategically located throughout the city, which I found to be the most sensible approach. They usually charge by the hour, or a flat fee of $5 to $6 for the entire day.

For those who enjoy walking, Charleston is a natural. Its buildings have been so compactly built and meticulously restored that, even if you stroll at a leisurely pace, you will most likely miss some details the first time around—or even the second, or the fifth!

Charleston is a delight to the senses. Breathe in the smell of the ocean; smell the scent of magnolia and jasmine. Notice the riot of color—in the flowers that pop out at you from the homes’ beautifully manicured gardens and courtyards, as well as in the buildings themselves. Listen for the clip-clop of horses’ hooves, for the splashing of city fountains, for the lilting songs of the many birds that frequent this place. Feel the silky softness of the very air here…for it will soothe and relax your stress away. While you walk, remember that this city has withstood many hardships, including two major wars, a massive hurricane, and devastating fires that resulted. Watch for iron plates and turnbuckles that were used to stabilize buildings damaged by earthquakes. Notice the exquisite ironwork, one artistic feature that could survive all the abovementioned devastation. There are maps and outlines of self-guided walking tours available at the Visitor’s Center.

But you don’t have to do all the work yourself! There are a number of outfits that offer tours led by trained guides who have a wealth of knowledge about the area and its history. A few companies offer walking tours, where you are encouraged to explore the many nooks and crannies of this intriguing city, focusing on a theme.

Finally, for those who prefer to take it easy, there are ways to see it all while giving your feet a rest: There are different types of boat tours, which will allow you a better glimpse of the many waterfront houses and historic Charleston harbor, and van, bus, and horse-drawn carriage tours, as well—Whatever your preferences, you can see this wonderful city with a minimum of hassle.

Three tours are offered at Magnolia Plantation, The Nature Train, The Nature Boat, and The House Tour. We chose to take The Nature Train, and were very glad we did.

We met at the designated time and place, which was at the depot just up the road from the plantation house, and departed on this tractor-driven "train" that had the capacity to hold about 50 to 60 people. The whole tour took around 45 minutes to an hour, and the whole time it was packed with fascinating sights and interesting bits of information about the wildlife that inhabit this centuries-old nature preserve. Our guide was very pleasant and knowledgeable about the area and a plethora of birds, land animals, and swamp creatures. He knew just where to look for the yellow-bellied swamp sliders (turtles) and alligators of all sizes. Near the end of the ride, he drove us past the antebellum cabins where the plantation's slaves had lived.

The only criticism I can think of is that he didn't stop long enough for picture-taking. Nevertheless, I managed to snap a few!

The Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, known as America’s oldest major gardens and listed in the National Register of Historic Places, is not to be missed if you are ever in the area of Charleston. It’s an easy drive from the city, and you should plan to spend half a day there at the very least.

Your admission to Magnolia Plantation entitles you to view all of its features and is actually worthwhile in itself. My suggestion would be to begin your day in the Orientation Theater (across from the parking lot), where you can see a 12-minute film on the plantation’s history. From here, you can step through the garden entrance and embark on a relaxing stroll along the winding paths with their numbered points of interest along the way. You can go at your own pace, taking photos if you wish or stopping at one of the benches or gazebos for a rest. After you have had your fill of the garden, probably within 45 minutes to an hour, your path will end at the plantation house. Browse the intriguing gift shop/gallery if you wish; this would probably be the best opportunity for the 30-minute house tour. If you are hungry for a bite to eat, there is a snack shop across the road near the parking lot where you can purchase a light meal (unless you brought your own) to eat at one of the tables in the adjacent picnic grounds. If you have youngsters along, they will enjoy the animals in the nearby barnyard/petting zoo.

On the other side of the main garden entrance is the office and information booth where tour tickets may be purchased. While you are in the area, in my opinion, it would behoove you to purchase tickets for at least one of the available tours, which will enable you to experience sights and sounds you wouldn’t otherwise have the opportunity to see and a better chance to catch wildlife unawares. Another available choice is the adjoining Audubon Swamp Garden, another walking tour.

Have you ever noticed how, as you grow older, you become your parents? I have. For instance, when we were growing up, my father took us on many vacation trips around the US (for which I am very grateful). This is undoubtedly how I became bitten by the travel bug. But, as a youngster, the experiences I craved always involved action: Anything that encouraged movement was fine with me. Something that could be described as a learning experience… well… weren’t we out of school? I dreaded visitor centers, historical exhibits, and photographic opportunities.

But let me tell you - I have changed. Now I am like my parents. When I arrive at a new destination in my travels, I positively gravitate towards the visitor center. As, other than tips you have picked up by word of mouth from friends who have been there, this is the best place to form the backbone of your explorations of a place that is new to you.

The Charleston Visitor Center is no exception to this rule. Situated in its own niche just north of town, it is where you should begin your time in Charleston. Parking is inexpensive; abundant, clean, and modern facilities are available; and the employees are eager to help with any questions you may have. You can also purchase tickets to many attractions here.

After you have had your fill of the info offered here, there is a small snack bar nearby. Or, if the day is hot, walk over to John Street for a visit to Paolo's for some great Italian gelato!